Testing, Results, & Observations:
As you can see, you get quite a few goodies in the Drag M100S box. Even though this kit fits the needs of newbies and veterans alike, the package contents most definitely checks all the boxes for a starter kit. Everything except an external 18650/20700/21700 battery and juice is present to start vaping. They also give you a pre-packaged 0.15 ohm and 0.2 ohm coil which allows you to choose which one you want to start off with, instead of having a coil pre-installed more or less forcing you to start out with that coil. In my opinion, every kit should have two coils, especially for beginners. Toasting a coil is very easy to do - I've burnt coils straight out of the gate before getting antsy at wanting to take a peek at the UI before putting juice in the tank. It just further reinforces the necessity of a physical locking switch which the M100S has. The contents you see here are what you'll find in the Standard and US package lists.
The packaging for the Drag M100S is a bit different from the standard "gift" style packing with the usual sleeve. I'm not entirely sure why they went this route, but I find it a slight annoyance simply for the fact that when I stack and package mod products for storage, I want them to stack nicely. The pull tab on the side of the box prevents this box from being nice and rectangular. Call me OCD, I dunno. 
This bears no weight on the rating of this kit, just something that makes my eye twitch a bit. 
Also note that this is a sample. What you experience or receive may be slightly different than what you see in this review.
The M100S Mod:
I received the Antique Brass & Padauk colorway for this review. Although I'm not a big fan of natural wood aesthetics in mods, it goes decently well with the brass zinc-alloy. The hand-feel is exceptionally solid and quite small for a single 21700 mod. If you were a previous Drag X Plus or Drag X Plus Pro owner, the size is almost identical. I'll provide some comparison pics at the end of this review as a point of reference.
The front facing portion of the mod is where you'll find pretty much everything. From the top down, there's a rounded concave fire button that has a nice tactile feel and click when pressed in. The response is almost instantaneous when firing.
The 0.96" UI display sits below the fire button and almost covers the entire width of the front-facing panel. The customizability of the UI look is rather lackluster, however the functionality of the UI has pretty much everything covered for both coil head and rebuildable users alike. Basic operation of the mod can be found below.
Underneath the UI, there are three smaller rounded concave buttons that look like miniature versions of the fire button. Of the three, the top two are considered "up" and "down" directional buttons to navigate the UI and to change setting values. The bottom button is actually a physical toggle switch that slides side to side. When put in the left position, you can see a red line which signifies that the mod is live. Slid to the right, and the button can do one of four different things which can be customized by you in the UI. Thankfully they moved this switch to the bottom of the up and down directional buttons instead of on the top like it was on the Drag 4. I constantly clicked on the top button thinking it was the up directional button and it was frustrating to say the least.
At the bottom of the front-face plate is the USB Type-C port which is pretty common for newly released mods these days. Since this is an external battery mod, I would not suggest charging the device using this port unless you have no other way of charging the device. An external charger is cheap and definitely the best way to increase the longevity of your mods. This port should mainly be used when there are firmware updates that you want, and charge only when an external charger isn't available. To avoid jostling this port around and ultimately ruining your device if you need to charge it via this port, I would suggest removing the atomizer and laying this device on it's side while it's plugged into to avoid knocking it over or having it fall off your desk or table. The mod is advertised to charge at 2.5A and my testing went up to 2.2A which is close enough when it comes to mod specs.
The top of the mod has your standard spring-loaded brass-plated 510 connection. My only concern about the entire mod is how well this 510 plate is fastened into the frame. As far as I can see, the only way to gain access to the underside of the 510 connection would be to remove the glued on wood panels to expose screws that would then allow you to unfasten and slide the battery sled out to see up into the bottom of the 510. Unfortunately, I will not be doing that for this review. Being that I haven't seen too many complaints about the 510 plate coming loose, I'm going to venture a guess and say that it's likely fastened decently well. And the frame is solid metal, not plastic.
On the underside of the mod is where you'll find the swinging battery door. The spring-loaded slide switch slides in the direction of the arrow to pop it open. Something I really liked about this battery door is that the sliding switch has an indent for you to be able to grip it very easily with a fingernail or even the tip of your finger. Many of the bottom-swinging battery doors we see today are very difficult to grip and require a lot of downward pressure on the door to open it. You see the problem here; downward pressure on a door that needs to pop up to open. Genius. For the M100S, that pressure is moved to the side of the button so that when the latch reaches the point in which it releases, the battery door automatically pops open. Nicely done, VooPoo.
The battery orientation indicator can be found engraved into the negative contact on the battery door. Like most single battery regulated mods, the positive end of the lithium-ion battery drops into the mod with the negative end touching the battery door.
Basic Operation of the UI:
The operation of the UI is very straight forward and simple to understand. The only difficult thing about it was understanding what the symbols meant in the SWITCH submenu which is shown above. Also, there's a Level Code in the ABOUT submenu that I don't quite understand, lol.
◆ To turn the mod on/off: 5x clicks of the fire button (the physical lock can also be set to do this)
◆ To fully lock the device: 3x clicks of the fire button (the physical lock can also be set to do this)
◆ To access the MAIN MENU: Hold the up and down directional buttons for ~2 seconds
▶ MAIN MENU Options:
● MODE - 4 Firing Modes
► SMART - User-friendly mode to help new users from burning their coils out
↪Smart Mode with 0.8 ohm coil = 16W max
↪Smart Mode with 0.3 ohm coil = 40W max
↪Smart Mode with 0.2 ohm coil = 60W max
↪Smart Mode with 0.15 ohm coil = 80W max
► RBA - Full 5 to 100W range (doesn't round robin which isn't a big deal)
► ECO - Reduces the power output by 10% for whichever firing mode you used previously
► TC - Ni 200, Ti, SS316, SS430 (Down + Fire Button = ℃/℉; Up + Fire Button = change wattage for TC modes)
● SWITCH - Choose how the physical locking switch behaves (illustration below)
► Top option: Locks entire mod
► Middle option: Power off the entire mod (my personal favorite)
► Bottom options: Locks the up and down directional buttons (can still fire)
● PUFF RESET - Hmmm...
● ABOUT - Chip ID & Level Code?
● COLOR - Illustrations above
► CLASSIC
► GREEN
► PINK
► PURPLE
► YELLOW
The UI colors are a bit misleading. The site lists orange as one of the UI color options, but it isn't listed in the UI itself. There's a Classic color option which makes the default UI change based on what firing mode is currently active. Smart mode is brown, RBA mode is light blue, Eco mode is a limeish green, and TCR is a very light green.
The Uforce-L Tank:
I presume the "L" in the Uforce-L tank is short for Leakage-proof. If you're familiar with the previous iterations of the Uforce tank, they've all been bottom airflow. As you can see, they've changed that up with the Uforce-L which I applaud. This tank has in fact been very good about not leaking, and I'm going to guess that's for more reasons than one. The first and biggest reason in my opinion is the new PnP coil which looks to be assembled extraordinarily better than the older PnP coils (pictures further down). Bottom airflow tanks do just fine with leaking if the coil seals very well, but when they don't you end up with a bottom airflow mess. Likewise in a top airflow tank, if the coil leaks, you're going to get a slurpy and gurgly vape because the airflow still goes through the same area, it just starts at the top and flows downward before flowing back up through the coil. I think the combination of the airflow and better quality coils makes this one of the better VooPoo tanks I've used to date. For a better understanding of the airflow path, scroll back up to the pictures I pulled from VooPoo's site.
The second vape setup I bought as a kit was the Drag Mini back in 2018. That kit came with the Uforce T2 tank which a lot of people raved about at the time, but I just wasn't all that impressed with it. I ended up going with the Freemax Mesh Pro tank and later their Fireluke series tanks and never regretted it. The Uforce-L for the second time I've tested it is leaps and bounds better than the older T2. Flavor-wise, I would now rank it up there with Freemax's Fireluke and M Pro tanks, along with GeekVape's P-series coils and Hellvape's TLC coils.
The bottom cap has two brass-plated negative contacts and a single positive connector in the middle, all spring-loaded. It should be noted that if you put this tank in storage with the expectation that you will likely be pulling it back out again at some point, be sure not to leave a coil inserted with the bottom cap screwed in tightly - those pins will get stuck. This applies to all tanks/pods with spring-loaded contacts. The bottom side of the tank (top right picture) sports 3 big kidney-shaped airflow holes to sufficiently pass air coming in downward through the 3 airflow inlets at the top of the tank. There are no tricks to popping in a coil, simply drop one in (prime it if you wish) and press it in until you cannot see any part of the bottom O-ring on the coil.
Moving onto the second row of pictures, the left picture illustrates the removal of the glass tank. Be careful when doing so, the bottom O-ring around the coil housing will cause a bit of resistance for the bubble glass, and a lot of resistance for the straight glass as you remove it. The top of the tank is completely covered by a big rubber seal. There are two possible refill holes that you can choose from, the other serving as an air release when refilling. This has proved to be a great system and helps in preventing your nozzle from backflowing caused by air trying to escape the same hole that's being filled.
The next 3 pictures in the 3rd and 4th row show the airflow ring containing 3 airflow inlets evenly spaced around the cap that line up with 3 downward-slanted openings in the upper portion of the chamber. The inlets in the airflow control ring are "vented" and have no stopper - the airflow ring can be spun around indefinitely and it can also be removed while cleaning.
The bottom side of the top cap has a small O-ring around it that you should take note of pictured below. If this O-ring ends up missing, you can expect your tank to leak, so make note of where all of your O-rings are when disassembling your atomizer.
A couple of things I want to emphasize with this tank is the number of O-rings you should be aware of and careful not to accidentally misplace them - they're all needed for this tank to operate properly. I noticed while removing the airflow ring that the transparent O-ring situated around the top of the tank chamber very easily popped off. If you look in the photo above with the accessories, the spare O-ring pack comes with 7x O-rings and the top cap gasket with the fill ports. All 5x of the tank O-rings have been labeled above (4x in the bottom left photo and the 5th at the very top) and should be inspected after long-term use for wear/tear/failure.
The refill port and tank vent are interchangeable when refilling with juice, so don't be worried trying to figure out which hole to use when refilling the tank. The 810 driptip uses the remaining two black O-rings. The top cap itself does not have O-rings for sealing the driptip, so keep this in mind if you plan on using your own driptips.
Lastly, when removing and installing the glass, the black O-ring along the bottom of the tank is quite grippy and may make the removal/installation a tiny bit of a PITA. Be patient and don't force the glass on or off with great pressure as this could lead to shattering the pyrex.
The airflow vents on the ring that feed into the three downward slotted airflow holes provides a wide range of airflow from a slightly restricted DL to a tight RDL. The only irk I have about the airflow ring is that it doesn't have a stop when fully closed or opened which can be difficult to navigate when in the dark or while driving. As seen above, it can be quite difficult to visually tell where the airflow is positioned unless you're at the right angle with lighting. On the stainless steel version of this tank, it's much easier to see but can still be difficult to tell when in the dark.
Overall, VooPoo did a very good job with this tank. The coils however, I'm still trying to gauge in terms of lifespan.
The PnP-TW coils:
If you're familiar with previous PnP coils, you'll notice the improvement in design and assembly. The O-ring sealing the bottom of the coil actually sits somewhat flush with the coil! There are a few indicators letting you know which coils are of the TW variant; the first tell tale indicator are the purple O-rings, and the second would be the writing on the side of the coil. PnP-TW coils come in 0.15, 0.2, and 0.3 ohm resistances as indicated by their names - TW15, TW20, and TW30. The TW15 has a wattage recommendation of 55-70W, the TW20 has a wattage recommendation of 40-55W, and the TW30 recommends 28-36W. It would be nice if the coils had the material they're made of listed on the side. Even on their website, I don't see any mention of coil metals.
The juice ports of the PnP coils look to be mistakenly offset, but I can assure you that they'll have absolutely no problem soaking up enough juice to keep the wick wet given you're staying within the recommended wattage range for each coil.
As I mentioned above, simply press the coil into the coil housing until you cannot see the O-ring and you should be fine.
Between the Drag 4 and Argus XT kits that I tested, both using the Uforce-L tank, the 0.15 and 0.2 TW coils each lasted around 1000 puffs which is pretty standard for today's coils. However, with the M100S, the 0.15 ohm coil lasted around 400 puffs at 55W before I started to get a hint of a burnt taste. I dropped the wattage down to 50W and at around 500 puffs at 50W, I started to get another hint of a burnt flavor. I'm currently sitting at 45W and while the burnt flavor has subsided once again, there's a slight loss in flavor output. Not really enough to bother me, but it's something to take note of. I have a feeling that it might have something to do with the over-performing M100S mod, but that isn't a bad thing and I'll show you why.
M100S Mod Performance Comparison:
I have a special place in my heart for 21700 mods, so I've tested almost all of the 21700 single and dual battery 510 mods I have to see how they compare against one another. The full spreadsheet can be found here on imgur. Simply right-click the picture and "Open in a New Tab" or download the picture for easier reading. This spreadsheet is continuously updated, so feel free to bookmark the imgur link for later viewing.
In this particular chart, I've clipped out 4 of VooPoo's single 21700 devices; the Argus XT, M100S, Drag X Plus, and Drag X Plus Pro. Across various resistance coils and at different wattage inputs, you can see the calculated wattage output. Any category labeled "(mod)", this is the value pulled from the mod UI. Any category labeled "(calc)", this is the value that is calculated using Ohm's Law. Any "Wattage Setting (mod)" with a range of values, 80-100 for example, means the resulting wattage output did not change in that range of wattage inputs/settings. Regardless of if you set the mod to 80 or 100, it's still going to put out the same amount of wattage meaning a safety limitation on the amps or volts has been reached. Since most mods display the wattage setting and voltage output, we can calculate the amp draw and also the wattage output. If you don't have all of Ohm's Law conversions memorized (which I don't blame you - I don't either), you can use this site to help follow along if you're not sure how I got these figures.
I've labeled 1, 2, and 3 in each mod for coils with similar resistances. All of the 1's are lower resistance coils around 0.15 to 0.2 ohms that test the amp draw limit (or close to it) for each mod whereas all of the 3's are higher resistance coils around 0.8 ohms and are meant to test the voltage output limit (or close to it). The 2's are somewhere in the middle around 0.25 and 0.3 ohms since most regulated mods seem to perform at their peak wattage output around this resistance range.
I've boxed in the Drag M100S for clarity purposes. What this chart tells us is that the Drag M100S out-performs the Argus XT, Drag X Plus, and Drag X Plus Pro in every coil resistance category. It actually shoots up past 100W with a 0.3 ohm coil to 115W. Now you may say that this is inaccurate and a bad thing, but calculated values using only Ohm's Law do not factor in the mod efficiency and/or whether or not the mod is re-reading the coil resistance as it's being heated. As a coil heats up, the resistance rises. For a mod that does not re-read the coil resistance in real time and adjust for this, which VooPoo chips are often guilty of, you're actually getting less power output as the coil heats up. If you don't believe me, use the site I linked above and put in 4 for the voltage value, and then 0.15 for the resistance value. You get around 107 for a wattage output. Now calculate 4 for the voltage value, and then 0.17 for the resistance value (simulating the coil heating up). Voila, 94 for a wattage output. The wattage output dips as the coil heats up instead of remaining consistent. This feature does have an advantage in certain situations such as Temperature Control, but for power mode users, this actually works against us and often leads to underwhelming performances. Take the Drag X Plus for example - I don't recommend anyone purchasing this. The Drag M100S however, is their best single 21700 battery mod to date and one I'd highly recommend.
Size Comparison:
Top 2 photos L to R: Drag X Plus Pro, Argus XT, Drag 4, Drag M100S
Bottom photo L to R: Argus XT, Drag M100S, Drag X Plus Pro, Drag 4
Pros/Cons/Considerations:
++ PROS ++
→ Uforce-L Tank
◆ Well built/durable
◆ Quarter-turn top cap
◆ No leaks
◆ Great flavor
◆ Mess-free refill with tank vent
◆ Smooth top airflow
◆ Tight RDL to almost full open DL
◆ Big tank (5.5 mL bubble glass)
◆ Much improved PnP-TW coils
◆ Compatible with all VooPoo PnP coils
◆ Comfortable & removeable 810 drip tip
→ Drag M100S Mod
◆ Great hand-feel
◆ Solid zinc-alloy construction
◆ UI is easy to understand and operate
◆ Great power output for a single battery mod
◆ Chip has boost for additional voltage output
◆ Ultra fast-firing
◆ 20700/21700 battery compatible (18650 with adapter)
◆ Battery latch is easy to open and durable
◆ Physical locking switch is customizable
◆ Voltage output almost reaches stated 8.5V output
◆ USB Type-C port states 2.5A charging speed and was tested up to 2.0-2.2A
- - CONS - -
→ Uforce-L Tank
◆ It's a Bit Tall
◆ Lots of O-rings to Keep Track Of
→ Drag M100S Mod
◆ Eco Mode Seems Like a Gimmick (You can simply reduce the wattage if need be)
+- CONSIDERATIONS -+
→ Uforce-L Tank
◆ Top seal is difficult to clean
◆ Coil life is still questionable (I'd say somewhere between 500 to 1000 puffs)
→ Drag M100S Mod
◆ Zinc-alloy frame (It's a bit weighty)
◆ Amp draw is capped at 23-24A which may reduce total wattage output for very low ohm coils (below 0.15 ohms)
◆ No pass-through vaping
◆ Mod sleeps after 10-15 min. & requires double fire button clicks to vape
◆ Wattage output drops off slightly when batteries drop to 15% which is pretty common
◆ Wood exterior aesthetic might be hit or miss for some people
Overall Rating:
Solid 9.5
It is my opinion that this is VooPoo's best single battery kit released to date. The Uforce-L puts out intense flavor that definitely puts it up there with the best on the market, currently. The downside is that I'm still not entirely sure of the longevity of the coil lifespan. Somewhere between 500 to 1000 puffs which isn't great, but not far from what I'd consider par for the course in today's expectations. You can purchase this kit directly from VooPoo here or from various participating vendors.
I appreciate you taking the time to visit this review and hopefully I'll catch you in the next one. I've got quite a few coming out in the next few weeks.
Thanks again and happy vape hoarding!
