I am new to this modding thing I can read diagrams and solder but would like a regulator already built. I fly rc planes and while looking for a reg for my plane I ran across this 3A Adjustable step down switching voltage regulator and wondered if anyone knew how well this would work ?
VV mod
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I'm positive I've seen that regulator posted about before, so I'm pretty sure it can be used successfully for modding ;-) No idea where I saw the posts, though . . .
True. The Murata converters are less than $10 (I have a couple of the OKR-T/6's here), but that one's not astronomically expensive or anything. It even has the pot built right in. I had actually already bookmarked that page for the DE-SWADJ3 a week or two ago for possible use in a future mod 
I have six of these going in PT and battery boxes, they have great in/out voltage range and even with mistreatment,(up to 5 amps), I have not been able to burn one up. See no reason to pay so much even $10.
Shipping to FL has never taken more than 10 days.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596-DC-D...531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae33c58ab
Shipping to FL has never taken more than 10 days.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596-DC-D...531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae33c58ab
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BJ43: These things got me thinking, so I started looking into the idea of building my own mod.
Is it as easy as it looks? Two ins, two outs on the board, and the pot is onboard (that little screw thing), as well as the required resistors, etc.? So it's in from the batteries/button and out to the connector?
Assuming that, it's just a couple of batteries with connectors, a little wire, a button, maybe an on/off switch, a connector, a suitable box, and obviously some labor ... and I have a VV mod with a switching regulator for probably less than $15 (depending on box, add-ons and shipping)?
Sorry; that's a lot of question marks, but I have questions!
Is it as easy as it looks? Two ins, two outs on the board, and the pot is onboard (that little screw thing), as well as the required resistors, etc.? So it's in from the batteries/button and out to the connector?
Assuming that, it's just a couple of batteries with connectors, a little wire, a button, maybe an on/off switch, a connector, a suitable box, and obviously some labor ... and I have a VV mod with a switching regulator for probably less than $15 (depending on box, add-ons and shipping)?
Sorry; that's a lot of question marks, but I have questions!
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BJ43: These things got me thinking, so I started looking into the idea of building my own mod.
Is it as easy as it looks? Two ins, two outs on the board, and the pot is onboard (that little screw thing), as well as the required resistors, etc.? So it's in from the batteries/button and out to the connector?
Assuming that, it's just a couple of batteries with connectors, a little wire, a button, maybe an on/off switch, a connector, a suitable box, and obviously some labor ... and I have a VV mod with a switching regulator for probably less than $15 (depending on box, add-ons and shipping)?
Sorry; that's a lot of question marks, but I have questions!
look at the beginning of the following thread... one with batteries and one without.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/220307-vvbox-vvpassthru.html
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5A??? I have no idea what you mean by that or how you came to such a conclusion.
From your link.
Looks like 2A which is about par for the course for these things. These days most folks want a bit more. Adding a heatsink can help.
As far as those assemblies this one for a few $ more is better built and will handle more current as it stands, mostly due to it's better heatsinking.
new DC-DC IN 3-30V OUT 1.3V-18V converter Module board | eBay
You can see it on the top and the bottom.
How efficient are these assemblies? It's obvious from the heat they generate, not very.
Note the LM2596 (top) at the volts we will be using it at is about ~75%, hardly more than the much maligned linear regs. These assemblies need to be paired with something larger than 14500s.
The DE-SWADJ 3 (bottom) is over 90%. I asked Para for some numbers as he is a SWADJ user. He said he can do 5V @ 1.7Ω which puts it at 2.94A. Which is basically higher than any of the commercial VV PVs out there. And of course there is this.
These cheap China assemblies are OK as long as folks understand their shortcomings. low current handling and short runtimes. But as is usually the case you get what you pay for.
I mean that I have done dry burns on 2ohm at 10v and it has not damaged the regulators. I very seldom use batteries and my inV is usually between 12 and 24v depending if at home, in the car or in the cockpit of the plane.
All my mods are PT even the few that have batteries.
All my mods are PT even the few that have batteries.
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I agree with WillyB that you get what you pay for and I am sure that in the electronic equipment I see every day in the planes the regulators probably cost hundreds of dollars, but I was surprised how well these little things held up. I got hooked on stainless steel wicks a while back and I really hit them hard when oxidizing a wick and I have never burnt one. Have seen many friends here burn up many expensive PV getting SS wicks right, their efficiency doesn't really bother me its not rocket science. All I want is a lot of vaper and they give me that. I normally drip on 2.3 to 2.6 ohms at 6 to 6.5 v.
Not trying to be augmentative (who me?
), but frankly that's impossible.10V @ 2Ω would mean 50W. There is no 2Ω atty/carto made that could hold up, nor can that assembly handle the 5A needed.
Here's a quick example, I built a quicky mod with one of the cheapies (I also added a crude heat sink).
It's running on a pair of 14500 flames.
The top pic is un loaded volts, I just cranked it up.
The bottom volts are with a well used eGo DC @ 1.7Ω. Those are the only volts that matter, the volts under load, and that's the max current that the assembly can handle.
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I have never said that I vape at those extreme voltages or amps, only making a point that they are pretty sturdy and don't burn up easy and WillyB is correct the coil popped when I dry burned at 10v.
I remember WB putting me through the paces on the test. We ran it through the top end to see what it would handle.
I love using the DE-SWADJ 3 for all the reasons WB said in his post. If someone wants to go cheap; go cheap. I'll stick to what works and works perfectly for me.
I love using the DE-SWADJ 3 for all the reasons WB said in his post. If someone wants to go cheap; go cheap. I'll stick to what works and works perfectly for me.
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