VV or VW and why?

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Ld3441

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As you can see I have that MVP2 over <<<.
I usually have it on VV. I keep it around 3.2/3.6 as I like a cooler vape.
Question is, is there a real difference in VV and VW? I mean there must be or you wouldn't have a choice right?
Please try to keep this simple and leave ohms law out of it. Baby steps here.
I will learn all about it in the future when I have more time to dedicate to it so for now I am just seeking opinions as to why you prefer VV or VW.

Thanks!
 

InTheShade

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Hi Ld3441. So yes there is a difference but you are not missing out only using volts.

The main difference between volts and watts is that you will probably need to adjust your voltage when you use a different resistance head on your MVP2.

If you use watts, the idea is you will be able to set it at say 7 watts and just leave it there, regardless of the resistance of the head - your MVP will adjust the voltage to the new resistance to still give you 7 watts.

So for example, if you have a 1.8ohm head and a 2.8ohm head. If you set your MVP at 3.6 volts, on the 1.8 head you will be at about 7.5 watts but with the 2.8ohm head, you'll be at about 4.7 watts.
So as you can see, if you do not adjust the voltage for these two heads, the vape will be completely different.

But if you set your MVP at say 7 watts, the MVP will automatically adjust the voltage for you between the two different resistance heads.

In the real world, you may well find you still have to adjust the wattage a little bit depending on the juice.
 

Jayvaps

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It is difficult to leave ohms law completely out of it, as that is part of it.

But basically, if you have your voltage set at 3.6, based on your atomizer resistance, you are vaping at a certain wattage.

Change the resistance of that atomizer on top, and your wattage changes.

Your voltage doesnt control how hot your vape is, it is actually the wattage. If you have a high resistance attomizer and drop it onto your set 3.6 volts, it will be much much cooler than you are used to. A lower resistence atty, and it will be much hotter.

Thus, you would have to adjust your voltage to compensate for the difference of applied wattage due to the difference in atty resistence.

Variable wattage does all that adjusting for you. If you like vaping at 8watts, you set your wattage to 8w, and no matter what atty you place on it, the device will automatically adjust your voltage to that desired wattage.

It is basically a different and easier way to adjust your vape, but they basically do the same thing in the end. However, realize, when you are adjusting voltage in a vv device, what you are actually adjusting is the wattage at the atty.

I dont know if I confused you more, I hope not. :/
 

Ld3441

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Hi Ld3441. So yes there is a difference but you are not missing out only using volts.

The main difference between volts and watts is that you will probably need to adjust your voltage when you use a different resistance head on your MVP2.

If you use watts, the idea is you will be able to set it at say 7 watts and just leave it there, regardless of the resistance of the head - your MVP will adjust the voltage to the new resistance to still give you 7 watts.

So for example, if you have a 1.8ohm head and a 2.8ohm head. If you set your MVP at 3.6 volts, on the 1.8 head you will be at about 7.5 watts but with the 2.8ohm head, you'll be at about 4.7 watts.
So as you can see, if you do not adjust the voltage for these two heads, the vape will be completely different.

But if you set your MVP at say 7 watts, the MVP will automatically adjust the voltage for you between the two different resistance heads.

In the real world, you may well find you still have to adjust the wattage a little bit depending on the juice.


So basically watts are for lazy people that don't want to adjust volts? ;)
 

Mohamed

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So basically watts are for lazy people that don't want to adjust volts? ;)

Pretty much correct there ;)...Although you will still need to adjust to your liking just not as much when changing atties/clearomizers, etc.

I bought a wide range of attomizer's with ego-c and my first passthrough with VV so that I could test the differences between low resistant ohm atty and high resistant atty. I recently got a vamo-v3 that has both VV and VW. I started with VV because that's what I was used to. I recently switched to VW. With two different atty's with different ohms I don't have to adjust as much. Using VV your always going to have to adjust if you like the same vape when switching atty's with different ohms.

VW does the math for you. I still adjust VW though. I like a bit hotter/stronger vape in the morning and little more cooler in the evening. But when I switch clearomizers/atties/etc I have to do less fiddling to figure out what to set it at.

In the end its the wattage that determines the amount of heat your attomizer is giving off to vape the liquid. There's a formula to convert volts and resistance to watts. Leaving the volts the same when you change your resistance it's going to change your watts and thus increase or decrease the heat at which the liquid is vaporizing. When using a constant watt when you change the resistance your device will figure out what the voltage should be to given to give you the desired watts.

Check into Ohms Law. Ohm's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and ohms law wheel Ohm's Law Wheel if you want a more mathematical/physics explanation.

In the end it's whatever you like. I just find VW easier to use. Now if all my atties had the same ohms I don't think it would matter. Other than the resistance of your atty can change over time and your device can pick up on that and just the volts automatically for you.
 
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Traver

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Lol.

Well, it is like an automatic transmission vs a manual transmission in a car. They will both get you to where you are going by converting the energy of your engine into turning your tires. One is more set it and forget it, while the other requires more manipulation as you drive.
Good analogy, I like it.
 

generic mutant

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You could think of the temperature of your wire as being like the speed of your car.

Variable volts is like pushing down the accelerator. Variable watts is like cruise control.

Resistance is like a head-wind, slowing you down.

If the resistance doesn't change, you can set the volts to the right level and it's fine.

If the resistance changes (for example if you change between different atomisers), you need to keep adjusting the volts for the desired temperature. If you set the watts, the mod does this for you.


(it isn't a perfect analogy for several reasons. But it's probably close enough to get your head around the basics... :) )
 
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suspectK

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Lol.

Well, it is like an automatic transmission vs a manual transmission in a car. They will both get you to where you are going by converting the energy of your engine into turning your tires. One is more set it and forget it, while the other requires more manipulation as you drive.

That is probably the best simplified explanation for them.

VW leaves you at the hands of your ohmmeter and PV's processor to adjust voltage accordingly. Sometimes ohmmeters screw up, and they can also just be permanently off.

I use VW on my MVP. I have a 5 Volt or 11 Watt limit, with a 3 amp cutoff/limit. Since I use 3 ohm cartomizers, I can be at about 5.2 Volts with it set to 9 Watts. If I used a low resistance and wanted higher wattages than 11, I can more than likely reach that with the voltage. 11 Watts with a 1.5 Ohm coil is 4.06 Volts.. I'm sure I wouldn't be going much higher than that, but I have the option to, if I wanted. I couldn't max out my voltage at 5 Volts with that same 1.5 Ohm resistor. That would equal about 3.3 Amps, 0.3 Amps over the 3 Amp limit on the MVP.
 

generic mutant

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I'm incredibly glad I started rebuilding coils. I'm not brilliant at it, but for a relatively small initial investment (Igo-Ls, for example, cost about £10. Then you'd just need some wire and some wick - wire is cheap online, wick materials vary but cotton is incredibly cheap and everywhere), you can start tailoring things how you like them, and learn in a much more hands on way what's going on inside an atomiser.

Now that I've been rebuilding, if something goes wrong in a prebuilt atomiser like on a Protank, I have a rough idea what it could be - sometimes I can even fix it.

I'd heartily recommend giving it a go - but think of it like a long term project. Don't expect it to work overnight. Get some stuff to play with, play with it for a few hours, and if it doesn't work, put it down and go back to what has been working for you. Come back in a few days. If you don't let it annoy you, you will eventually succeed.
 

suspectK

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I'd heartily recommend giving it a go - but think of it like a long term project. Don't expect it to work overnight. Get some stuff to play with, play with it for a few hours, and if it doesn't work, put it down and go back to what has been working for you. Come back in a few days. If you don't let it annoy you, you will eventually succeed.

You'll also have better luck starting out with cotton. I used ekowool/braided silica when I first started using RBA's...PITA.. I still think I like silica better as far as function..doesn't seem like I waste as much liquid, but you can tailor an unraveled cotton ball to whatever you're using to wrap your coils. I recently started wrapping with an 18 gauge syringe(that gauge or smaller, with coils touching=nano coil), and I just put a little cotton underneath the coil(bed).. I can easily sample 30 flavors in less than a hour with that method, and the wick isn't as likely to warp a perfectly wound coil.
 

dreamreaper

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Hi Ld3441. So yes there is a difference but you are not missing out only using volts.

The main difference between volts and watts is that you will probably need to adjust your voltage when you use a different resistance head on your MVP2.

If you use watts, the idea is you will be able to set it at say 7 watts and just leave it there, regardless of the resistance of the head - your MVP will adjust the voltage to the new resistance to still give you 7 watts.

So for example, if you have a 1.8ohm head and a 2.8ohm head. If you set your MVP at 3.6 volts, on the 1.8 head you will be at about 7.5 watts but with the 2.8ohm head, you'll be at about 4.7 watts.
So as you can see, if you do not adjust the voltage for these two heads, the vape will be completely different.

But if you set your MVP at say 7 watts, the MVP will automatically adjust the voltage for you between the two different resistance heads.

In the real world, you may well find you still have to adjust the wattage a little bit depending on the juice.

Thanks for that great explanation. I think I finally understand now after a bunch of searching on this.
:toast:
 

suspectK

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I didn't actually have much trouble with the silica that came with mine, but I switched quickly to SS, and have some cotton on order (you'd be surprised how hard it is to get loose organic cotton here...)

I just use normal cotton balls.. I'm not eating it, so I really don't care about the nutrients that were used with growing it. It's a lot easier to tell when it's running dry than silica. Most inorganic nutrients flush out a whole lot easier than organics anyways.
 

generic mutant

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I'm not an organic food nut (in fact, there are some very dodgy stories about animal welfare in organic food), but I heard a few questions raised about the pesticides used on cotton.

Of course, organic cotton uses pesticides too I'm sure, and as a non-expert it's pretty hard to gauge which would be safer. Still, I found it relatively cheap, so I ordered a vaping lifetime supply :)
 
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