ooops see below Geez how do you delete a post?? Nothing is ever simple...
Last edited:
VV vs VW
- Thread starter Valjean
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
but I certainly appreciate it!!Thank you all ~ great answers. Now I will have to reread a couple of times to understand them. I was trying to decide between a vision spinner and an innoke itaste 3v. Perhaps I will start with the spinner. I am graduating from only a KGO 1100mah basic model. I just don't like that it is not regulated, and I do find that if I could just tweak the voltage, the flavors would pop more. I am also a basic CE3 bottom coil gal. The only thing that ever worked for me, and since I hardly change that part of it--if ever--perhaps the spinner would be the best choice.
But you all certainly deserve an A+, and it will be a good thread for other bobble heads like me to read ~ even it does take a few tries! LOL
But you all certainly deserve an A+, and it will be a good thread for other bobble heads like me to read ~ even it does take a few tries! LOL
Go with the V3. Will it work better, no not really, but it is a lot cooler to look at and play with 
If, like me, you have trouble seeing small numbers, the V3 digital is much easier to read.
If, like me, you have trouble seeing small numbers, the V3 digital is much easier to read.
I have the Itaste vv 3.0 and I have a vv ego. I use both with equal enjoyment. I do like the features of them both. I do have a spearmint juice that I have to turn the power down to it's lowest on my Itaste or it will taste burn't. I don't even try to use my ego with it.
Variable volts and variable watts will give the same results, with a few caveats.
Variable wattage will step your voltage up or down automatically. This is why you are able to switch atty/cart ohms on the fly.
With a VV device, this is accomplished manually. Variable voltage devices will give you more finite control of the steps, approximately 2-3 times, for dialing in.
Watts= Volts x Amps, and Volts= Watts / Amps. They are both a product of, and relation to Ohms Law.
Variable wattage will step your voltage up or down automatically. This is why you are able to switch atty/cart ohms on the fly.
With a VV device, this is accomplished manually. Variable voltage devices will give you more finite control of the steps, approximately 2-3 times, for dialing in.
Watts= Volts x Amps, and Volts= Watts / Amps. They are both a product of, and relation to Ohms Law.
Go with the itaste 3.0 - having the ability to check ohms is soooooo worth it!
Juice delivery devices are routinely ±.2 oHms off from their listed oHms and sometimes more than that. This can have an effect on taste.
The VW capability of the iTaste VV 3.0 will allow you to set the warmth of the vape you prefer and deliver that same warmth of vape when you switch out your clearos. The VW capability automatically adjusts for any difference in oHms but VV does not.
The CE3's don't have very good reputation for delivering decent flavor. If you don't find that you are getting the taste you want from switching to a battery with adjustable power you should probably consider trying some other types of juice delivery devices.
Also, be aware that some juices will crack the polycarbonate tanks on your CE3s, juice flavors that crack polycarbonate tanks.
Just watch this video, its already skipped to the part that pertains to the OP. not bad idea to just watch it from the beginning either. as far as changes in "vaping experience", variable wattage just simplifies things just a bit. http://youtu.be/iVFSk5fW7bo?t=16m30s
So yeah... the benefit of VW is thought to be that you get the
same experience no matter which topper (with whatever resistance)
you screw on.
Totally falls apart though if you really use different toppers.
A Genny will not vape good at the 8 watts that work for your protank...
Then different juices need different wattages.
So in reality the benefit of not having to adjust it VW is illusionary... imo.
same experience no matter which topper (with whatever resistance)
you screw on.
Totally falls apart though if you really use different toppers.
A Genny will not vape good at the 8 watts that work for your protank...
Then different juices need different wattages.
So in reality the benefit of not having to adjust it VW is illusionary... imo.
With VV one has to deal with the variables related to oHms as well as different juices that may taste better at different power settings. VW means that one does not have to fuss with the VV variable.
The OP has not expressed any interest in gennies nor rebuilding of any kind. However, it is not true that one can not achieve a very nice vape with a genny at 8 watts. My micro coiled cotton wicked AGT Titanium delivers a great vape on one of my Innokin VV 3.0s. It also does not slaughter the nuanced flavors in the juices I prefer the way sub ohm coils do.
Should the OP decide to explore the world of rebuildables the VV 3.0's built-in oHm reader will allow them to learn to do so within the safe confines of a protected PV. If they never want to rebuild they can easily ignore that feature.
The OP has not expressed any interest in gennies nor rebuilding of any kind. However, it is not true that one can not achieve a very nice vape with a genny at 8 watts. My micro coiled cotton wicked AGT Titanium delivers a great vape on one of my Innokin VV 3.0s. It also does not slaughter the nuanced flavors in the juices I prefer the way sub ohm coils do.
Should the OP decide to explore the world of rebuildables the VV 3.0's built-in oHm reader will allow them to learn to do so within the safe confines of a protected PV. If they never want to rebuild they can easily ignore that feature.
100% agree. I am vaping right now on a 2.0 ohm coil at 4 Volts. It is a microcoil with a doubled cotton wick and it makes vapor like a steam locomotive. This is eight watts, and I needed no VW device to tell me that, only some familiarity with the power relationships that guide us in these matters. VW adds nothing to my experience, but I can see how it has some appeal to others.
My VV only ProVari reads the ohms just fine, but it's relatively high cost could be prohibitive if you are new to vaping.
To each their own, and happy vaping!
This is false. - Instead of focusing on the word "wattage" or the word "voltage", it is important to remember the word "variable". - If you change your voltage, you change your wattage. If you change your wattage, you change your voltage.
There are primarily two types of variable devices. Analog variable devices rely on a trim pot the user interacts with usually by either a screw or a wheel. Digital variable devices the user interacts with usually via a button and display.
Now, if we removed the "variable" portion of this idea, I would certainly agree that a fixed wattage device might be more desirable than a fixed voltage device if e-cigs had evolved (no pun intended) that way. But they did not. I could certainly see how a fixed 8 or 8.5 watt device would have been able to generate a superior user experience allowing the user to disregard entirely coil ohms vs a fixed voltage device (there are still a lot of 5.0v fixed PVs out there and their users certainly have to pay attention to the ohm of the carto or atty they buy).... but that just isn't the case. Variable devices are variable devices no matter which ohms law formula one decides to use to achieve the same result. - A wheel is turned or a button pressed to achieve a desired result for either device. Variable is the important part.
Last edited:
Amen! I wish more people would put more effort in trying to understand why their particular vaping nirvana might not work so well for everyone else.
Personal vaping preferences aside, I think that inexpensive VW/VV devices with a built-in oHm checkers are wonderful learning tools for newer vapors. VW allows them to adjust temperature without having to deal with oHms math.
They can then try the VV mode to see if they would be happy with a more expensive VV only device rather than having to depend on the opinions of others. I hate to see new vapers having to wade through religious arguments regarding VW/VV versus VV only.
The oHm checker allows someone to explore the world of rebuilding within the built-in battery safety sandbox of the VW/VV device itself. If micro coils with sane oHms don't get them where they want to be they then at least have some experience under their belt before venturing into the riskier world of sub oHms on a mechanical or the expensive DNA 20 world.
I think you got all of your answers here but just wanted to chime in with my thoughts. When I got my Vamo V3 which has both VV and VW I always used VV but recently have started using VW and I tend to like it better now. The reason is if I switch my tank/atty I have to do less fiddling I like my watts at around 7.0. Sure I still adjust it slightly up or down for different juices but there's not such a drastic swing as in the VV when switching from say a 1.5 ohm to 3.2 ohm atty.
I kind of view VW as the lazy man's way of using VV. There's less math involved when switching from tanks that have different ohms because generally I stick at around the same wattage and the device does the math of determining how many volts to send to the atty.
I kind of view VW as the lazy man's way of using VV. There's less math involved when switching from tanks that have different ohms because generally I stick at around the same wattage and the device does the math of determining how many volts to send to the atty.
One downside that I forgot to mention with VW and it may just be my Vamo V3 but it picks up different readings for the same atty. My 2.2 mostly says 2.2 but sometimes it goes down to 1.8. Not sure if it's the device, the juice, or just variations of different things. I've noticed that if the tank leaks a bit and you get some juice on your connector that that also seems to change the reading. So when it picks up on those things it's actually changing the amount of volts sent from the battery on it's own. Again not sure if atty ohms itself is changing, if it's the device, or some other factor.
So VV may give you more consistent vape if the actual ohms aren't really changing but the device thinks that is? To be honest I just like VW because so many of my atties are different. I bought about 25 atties that fit my standard ego tank and bought about 10 clearomizers with 10 replacement atties for those all at varing ohms because I wanted to mess around with that to see what I liked.
To be honest it only makes a difference on my ego-c as you can't change the volts or wattages on it. I don't recall off hand what ego gives out but think it's 3.7 volts so with that the ohms really matter as if you want a hotter more vapor hit you need to use lower ohms. If you want a lighter less throat hit vape you use a higher ohm. I've found that with my vamo the ohms don't matter as much as you can change the volts or wattage as you see fit. In the future I'll probably just pick an ohm and buy all of my atties like that. I don't use my ego's much any more. So when I do that VV may be a better choice for me...but for now VW just makes it easier when switching clearomizers or atties because I have a wide range of ohms in my collection.
So VV may give you more consistent vape if the actual ohms aren't really changing but the device thinks that is? To be honest I just like VW because so many of my atties are different. I bought about 25 atties that fit my standard ego tank and bought about 10 clearomizers with 10 replacement atties for those all at varing ohms because I wanted to mess around with that to see what I liked.
To be honest it only makes a difference on my ego-c as you can't change the volts or wattages on it. I don't recall off hand what ego gives out but think it's 3.7 volts so with that the ohms really matter as if you want a hotter more vapor hit you need to use lower ohms. If you want a lighter less throat hit vape you use a higher ohm. I've found that with my vamo the ohms don't matter as much as you can change the volts or wattage as you see fit. In the future I'll probably just pick an ohm and buy all of my atties like that. I don't use my ego's much any more. So when I do that VV may be a better choice for me...but for now VW just makes it easier when switching clearomizers or atties because I have a wide range of ohms in my collection.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
