Wasp nano.

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Benjamin899

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Feb 11, 2018
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good evening my fellow vapers,

Anybody have any experience with the wasp? It’s my first rta although I’ve used an RDTA so really just my first dripper.

I think I might have solved my issue but just want some good advice,

I was vaping away as you do and the coil was getting so hot after literally one second two tops that it was glowing red an flaming a little.

I think it might of been because I had the coil so low on the deck? As you can see from my picture I have raised it majorly. I searched online and nobody seems to have this probably so I’m either a total idiot( most likely) or was doing something majorly wrong?

Any enlightening is appreciated.
 

ScottP

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If the coil is glowing or flaming, one of the following is true: it is getting WAY too much power for the wicking and juice level, you don't have near enough wicking in it to touch all of the inside of the coil causing hot spots, or you are letting it run too dry. A properly wicked, wet, and powered coil should never glow or catch fire.
 

ScottP

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So I just zoomed in on the pic and NOW I see the issue. You have ALL of the wick under the coil and NONE in it. So essentially the whole top half of the coil is being dry burned. This is why it is glowing and igniting the little bit of residue juice from you dripping right on top of it.

You MUST still have wicking through the center of the coil and then hanging down on both sides to absorb any extra juice. The only exception is for vertical coils in tanks with bottom airflow, in which case you have to have the wicking wrapped completely around the outside of the coil (air moves through the middle of the coil).
 
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Benjamin899

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So I just zoomed in on the pic and NOW I see the issue. You have ALL of the wick under the coil and NONE in it. So essentially the whole top half of the coil is being dry burned. This is why it is glowing and igniting the little bit of residue juice from you dripping right on top of it.

You MUST still have wicking through the center of the coil and then hanging down on both sides to absorb any extra juice. The only exception is for vertical coils in tanks with bottom airflow, in which case you have to have the wicking wrapped completely around the outside of the coil (air moves through the middle of the coil).
You were right but it had only happened because I burnt it before and it destroyed what was inside.

I think it’s just a case of making sure I keep it toped with enough juice.
 
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Benjamin899

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Not enough wick In the coil, and your power should probably be turned down a bit.
I didn't notice if you stated what your ohms were and what wattage you were using..
Yea I think I’ve found a sweet spot now, running at around 0.7 ohms

As I said above I think I was letting it run to dry, on average when should you be re dripping?

Started doing it every five or so puffs and no more issues
 
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dom qp

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Yea I think I’ve found a sweet spot now, running at around 0.7 ohms

As I said above I think I was letting it run to dry, on average when should you be re dripping?

Started doing it every five or so puffs and no more issues

You should do it when it tastes dry. You literally cannot get to the point where your coil burns through your wicking without tasting it.

When I eyeball it, I look for this mostly translucent look. When there's not enough juice it gets more opaque and looks more like regular cotton.

y3C1J4h.jpg


Don't be afraid of putting too much cotton. The more cotton you have the further it will wick (and quicker to reach the centre of your coil). The less cotton you have the quicker it will saturate on the tips, but it won't make it as far up the wick as quickly.

I used to do it loosely, but now I wick as hard as I can. I definitely recommend it for anyone just starting out as it's more fool proof.

It counterintuitive, but it be working.



 
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QcVaper

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idk what kind of power you're putting through your coil, but for a .7 0hm (if that's really what you got in there) i'd use this at around 35-45 watts tops probably.

I've used a single coil rebuildable once, with a .25 0hm coil (3mm Id) i was running it at around 45-50 watts doubt you need more power yourself.

If your power is as low as needed then ignore this comment :D
 
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Benjamin899

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idk what kind of power you're putting through your coil, but for a .7 0hm (if that's really what you got in there) i'd use this at around 35-45 watts tops probably.

I've used a single coil rebuildable once, with a .25 0hm coil (3mm Id) i was running it at around 45-50 watts doubt you need more power yourself.

If your power is as low as needed then ignore this comment :D
Running at around twenty five watts and it’s plenty, big change going from tanks at around 80 Watts to a wasp with amazing flavour at such low wattage.

Appericate all the responses
 

Mike P

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lots of great advice given here. basically wick it as tight as you can without distorting the coil or the cotton.

I didn't realize there even was cotton through that coil until looking very closely at the pic...you can actually lower the coil too, I like my coil directly in line with the airflow on the wasp, too high and it gets hot and spits.
 

Benjamin899

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Feb 11, 2018
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lots of great advice given here. basically wick it as tight as you can without distorting the coil or the cotton.

I didn't realize there even was cotton through that coil until looking very closely at the pic...you can actually lower the coil too, I like my coil directly in line with the airflow on the wasp, too high and it gets hot and spits.
I’m not having the heat issue anymore, so my only real guess is I didn’t have it packed enough with cotton or I wasn’t juicing enough, or maybe both.

I had my rdta for a month and then this is my first rta so expected a few kinks along the way.

I did watch a bloke of YouTube who knows his stuff, advising to really pack the cotton wick hard I believe the term was. Know just looking for a good squonk kit I really want a regulated one.

Thanks
 
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stalkster

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Edit: looked more at pic not enough cotton.

Sounds more like not enough juice issue to me, the bad thing about single wire/parallel coils in RDA's is once it goes dry there almost no room for error. You shouldn't see red coils assuming there is any cotton/juice. "Fancy coils" may take more time to ramp but are less forgiving and better flavor user dependent.

RDA's have more of a learning experience curve then a rta/rtda/etc.
Lets say you get wicks juicy/have a lil on deck, a single wire/parallel coil will give say 8 vapes, 9-11 will burn cotton/bad taste/have to rewick etc. Where vaping say a fused clapton might give 8 good vapes vapor/cloud/flavor will be very low on say 8th and let you know it's time to drip and not kill cotton.

RDA's follow more of the advanced vapor, lets say a wasp nano I can do 14 drops/8hits, after that I need to drip again. Then I throw on a kennedy rda I do 12 drops and it leaks out the side(oops over dripping). So I do 10 drops and can get 7hits before I can drip again/not overfill. Each one is different and is a experience curve.

Every atty you buy will be a learning experience, building, wicking, dripping if rda etc.
And so is building coils/wicking. Lose wicking will "pop" and spit hot juice in your mouth, to tight wont give a good vaping experience.

It's all a learning curve, If your have insert premade coil made for <Wattage~Wattage> It will vape and might be ok with you. If you build/wick your own coils you might be ok with say .3ohm 6wrap or be chasing that perfect vape for awhile. Building will have a more of learning curve. Say I went threw 3 bags of cotton and 3,000ft of wire in a yr experimenting. Where 1 bag of cotton and 400ft of wire will last me 12-18months.

I hope this makes sense good luck.
 

Benjamin899

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Feb 11, 2018
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Edit: looked more at pic not enough cotton.

Sounds more like not enough juice issue to me, the bad thing about single wire/parallel coils in RDA's is once it goes dry there almost no room for error. You shouldn't see red coils assuming there is any cotton/juice. "Fancy coils" may take more time to ramp but are less forgiving and better flavor user dependent.

RDA's have more of a learning experience curve then a rta/rtda/etc.
Lets say you get wicks juicy/have a lil on deck, a single wire/parallel coil will give say 8 vapes, 9-11 will burn cotton/bad taste/have to rewick etc. Where vaping say a fused clapton might give 8 good vapes vapor/cloud/flavor will be very low on say 8th and let you know it's time to drip and not kill cotton.

RDA's follow more of the advanced vapor, lets say a wasp nano I can do 14 drops/8hits, after that I need to drip again. Then I throw on a kennedy rda I do 12 drops and it leaks out the side(oops over dripping). So I do 10 drops and can get 7hits before I can drip again/not overfill. Each one is different and is a experience curve.

Every atty you buy will be a learning experience, building, wicking, dripping if rda etc.
And so is building coils/wicking. Lose wicking will "pop" and spit hot juice in your mouth, to tight wont give a good vaping experience.

It's all a learning curve, If your have insert premade coil made for <Wattage~Wattage> It will vape and might be ok with you. If you build/wick your own coils you might be ok with say .3ohm 6wrap or be chasing that perfect vape for awhile. Building will have a more of learning curve. Say I went threw 3 bags of cotton and 3,000ft of wire in a yr experimenting. Where 1 bag of cotton and 400ft of wire will last me 12-18months.

I hope this makes sense good luck.
Appericate the in-depth reply,

Currently running a 0.7 ohm wicked kind of hard i would say but not to the extreme and it’s running quite well.

What’s the best sort of wire I should be buying? I have no issue with making coils just not sure which wire is the best for me.

I like sub ohm but aslong as the taste is there I dont mind.

I can relate to wasting cotton and wire been with the rta rdta about a month and gone through enough already!
 
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stols001

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Gosh, it really depends what you are looking for out of a build and etc. Thicker wire (in general) requires a bit more ramp up time but it's more robust for high wattage builds. I've burnt out a coil or two by accidentally turning up my (MTL) wire by accident. So, if you prefer sub0hm you'd want a wire that is robust enough to support your wattage.

Also, type of wire will make a difference. I usually use stainless steel wire since it can run in both wattage and temperature control mode, there are certainly folks who prefer the taste and usability of kanthal, so if you don't plan on using TC that may be your best bet. However, some folks prefer SS. They differ in resistance so it will also be necessary to calculate out the build (I might play around with steam engine a bit and input different variables to see what kind of build you may end up with, and that may help you make some choices, depending on how much space you have in your deck and etc.

But, there aren't any SUPREMELY wrong choices (besides trying to run say, Titanium or nickel in NON TC mode). If you decide on running a more exotic build, you will need to note what your "inner" wire is made from as that will determine what mode you are running in and etc.

I kind of feel like I'm being sort of "general" about this, but since it's your palate and self that will be building and coiling ,well, you're likely going to want to make some experiments. You may not want to "stock up" on one particular wire (or buy smaller quantities of what you wish to experiment with) as you "lock in" some general coil preferences and etc. :)

Best of luck,

Anna
 
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