Watts in volts

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Topwater Elvis

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I'm not sure why you quoted my response or what your response has to do with what the OP was asking.

The OP intended to use .15Ω resistance on a single cell tube style mechanical.

With this level of amp draw/drain you're talking about a few minutes of actual vape time from 4.2v - 3.2v.
4.2v/.15Ω= 28a, 117w
3.7v/.15Ω = 24.6, 91w
3.2v/.15Ω = 21a, 68w
Most folks would notice a big drop in vape quality in a short time & surely notice a 49w drop.
 

Topwater Elvis

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You claimed that using a regulated was the only way to get consistent output - my own experience would seem to suggest otherwise.

When quoting someone It would be appreciated if you quoted the entire post so it remains in context.

My examples you left out clearly illustrate the reality of wattage decrease caused by voltage drop when using a mechanical.

What is it about your experience that relates to the OP's thread or my response at all?

Are you using a regulated or mechanical power device?
If you are using a single cell mechanical to power a .15Ω resistance, are you saying you see no difference in vape quality as the battery voltage drops from 4.2v to 3.2v?

Are you saying you don't notice any effect of an increase or decrease in power output of 30w ~ 49w while vaping?

What I said wasn't a 'claim', it is fact.
When using a mechanical as battery voltage decreases so does wattage which has a great effect on vape quality.
The output fluctuates in step with battery voltage & voltage sag/drop under load.
 
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ian-field

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When quoting someone It would be appreciated if you quoted the entire post so it remains in context.

My examples you left out clearly illustrate the reality of wattage decrease caused by voltage drop when using a mechanical.

What is it about your experience that relates to the OP's thread or my response at all?

Are you using a regulated or mechanical power device?
If you are using a single cell mechanical to power a .15Ω resistance, are you saying you see no difference in vape quality as the battery voltage drops from 4.2v to 3.2v?

Are you saying you don't notice any effect of an increase or decrease in power output of 30w ~ 49w while vaping?

What I said wasn't a 'claim', it is fact.
When using a mechanical as battery voltage decreases so does wattage which has a great effect on vape quality.
The output fluctuates in step with battery voltage & voltage sag/drop under load.

As I already explained if I recharge every day, a battery that will last 2 - voltage sag is irrelevant.
 

Topwater Elvis

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As I already explained if I recharge every day, a battery that will last 2 - voltage sag is irrelevant.

You didn't explain anything or answer a single question.

This thread isn't about you or your experience.
It is about using a single cell mechanical with a .15Ω resistance.
2ah/ 2000 mah would last about 5 minutes of actual vape time at the level of amp drain .15Ω will draw.
And, in that 5 whole minutes of vape time the wattage will take around a 50w nose dive, due to battery voltage decrease.
 
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crxess

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You claimed that using a regulated was the only way to get consistent output - my own experience would seem to suggest otherwise.
you do not understand Mechanical function. You are simply using a well optimized resistance to stay within best working parameters for the maximum possible time.

The 4.2v vape is still hotter and eventually the 3.6v and lower charge will produce a weaker, cooler vape.

You cannot directly compare Personal habit to science.
Better yet, why so you change the battery?o_O

:lol:
 

suspectK

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Hi, how much watts is in : 3.7v, 2600mAh 30A, coil 0.15ohm? Thanks!

Be careful with the vtc5's. Not only is there a possibility that they are counterfeit, but they tend to get rather warm around 20 Amps. I honestly felt more comfortable using my vtc4 cells at high outputs.

What batteries are you using?

But there are a few factors that go into mechanicals. There is voltage drop, battery sag, and battery drain.

Voltage drop occurs mostly at connection points, and within the solid structure of the mod itself. Battery sag occurs due to the heat and resistance in the battery under load, so the lower the resistance, the more battery will sag(not produce the intended wattage for the coil). Battery drain is a factor, because as soon as you press the fire button, the battery has less voltage to output than it did before.

So before you worry about wattage, you need to find the current that your build will be pulling from the battery. When you calculate this, you ALWAYS use 4.2 Volts. You won't get the full 4.2 Volts, but it is possible. Even if you do get the 4.2 Volts, you will be down to 4 Volts extremely quick. Take a look at some battery test charts, and you will see how batteries discharge under load.
All 30A-Capable Batteries Shootout -- Bench Test Results -- Which battery is best?
So here is how we start:
4.2 Volts / 0.15 Ohms = 28 Amps
If you are going to use this build, be sure your batteries are up to the task(the current/Amps are within the continuous discharge rating of the battery), and be sure that your resistance isn't under what you believe it is. Once you get into that resistance range, 0.01 can have a pretty big effect of what current is being drawn, so are you using a multi-meter, or do you have a 510-Ohmmeter from a reliable vendor? Have you double, and triple, and quadruple checked the resistance of your build?

After you know your batteries can handle the resistance, and you still want to know the wattage, I typically use 3-4 different numbers. If you have a multimeter, or an inline-volt meter, you can find out how much Voltage is being delivered to the coil.

I start with 4 Volts, 3.7 Volts, 3.3 Volts, and I end at 3 Volts. My mechanical that I used at builds close to this had about a 0.2 Volt in Voltage drop, and most batteries you shouldn't ever discharge below 2.8 Volts.

So... Voltage/Energy squared, divided by resistance/Ohms, equals Wattage/Power
4*4 / 0.15 = 106.667 Watts
3.7*3.7 / 0.15 = 91.267 Watts
3.3*3.3 / 0.15 = 72.6 Watts
3*3 / 0.15 = 60 Watts

Ohm's law Coil wrapping
Use this website. There are better ohm's law calculators, but there isn't any better coil building websites/applications.

I use to only use mechanicals until recently. I purchased a rx200 about a month ago, and I love it. It acted funny the first couple of days I had it in temperature control mode, but it has been amazing ever since. It is almost like a box mod, but has a better form factor. It fits very well in my hand.
 

USMCotaku

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Be careful with the vtc5's. Not only is there a possibility that they are counterfeit, but they tend to get rather warm around 20 Amps. I honestly felt more comfortable using my vtc4 cells at high outputs.

What batteries are you using?

But there are a few factors that go into mechanicals. There is voltage drop, battery sag, and battery drain.

Voltage drop occurs mostly at connection points, and within the solid structure of the mod itself. Battery sag occurs due to the heat and resistance in the battery under load, so the lower the resistance, the more battery will sag(not produce the intended wattage for the coil). Battery drain is a factor, because as soon as you press the fire button, the battery has less voltage to output than it did before.

So before you worry about wattage, you need to find the current that your build will be pulling from the battery. When you calculate this, you ALWAYS use 4.2 Volts. You won't get the full 4.2 Volts, but it is possible. Even if you do get the 4.2 Volts, you will be down to 4 Volts extremely quick. Take a look at some battery test charts, and you will see how batteries discharge under load.
All 30A-Capable Batteries Shootout -- Bench Test Results -- Which battery is best?
So here is how we start:
4.2 Volts / 0.15 Ohms = 28 Amps
If you are going to use this build, be sure your batteries are up to the task(the current/Amps are within the continuous discharge rating of the battery), and be sure that your resistance isn't under what you believe it is. Once you get into that resistance range, 0.01 can have a pretty big effect of what current is being drawn, so are you using a multi-meter, or do you have a 510-Ohmmeter from a reliable vendor? Have you double, and triple, and quadruple checked the resistance of your build?

After you know your batteries can handle the resistance, and you still want to know the wattage, I typically use 3-4 different numbers. If you have a multimeter, or an inline-volt meter, you can find out how much Voltage is being delivered to the coil.

I start with 4 Volts, 3.7 Volts, 3.3 Volts, and I end at 3 Volts. My mechanical that I used at builds close to this had about a 0.2 Volt in Voltage drop, and most batteries you shouldn't ever discharge below 2.8 Volts.

So... Voltage/Energy squared, divided by resistance/Ohms, equals Wattage/Power
4*4 / 0.15 = 106.667 Watts
3.7*3.7 / 0.15 = 91.267 Watts
3.3*3.3 / 0.15 = 72.6 Watts
3*3 / 0.15 = 60 Watts

Ohm's law Coil wrapping
Use this website. There are better ohm's law calculators, but there isn't any better coil building websites/applications.

I use to only use mechanicals until recently. I purchased a rx200 about a month ago, and I love it. It acted funny the first couple of days I had it in temperature control mode, but it has been amazing ever since. It is almost like a box mod, but has a better form factor. It fits very well in my hand.
I believe the VTC5's are 25 amp.....and know for fact that they aren't 30 amp like the VTC4's are
 

crxess

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suspectK

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I believe the VTC5's are 25 amp.....and know for fact that they aren't 30 amp like the VTC4's are

Thank you.. and thank you as well, crxess. That just goes to show how long it's been since I've looked into the current data...no pun intended.:p I don't even think anyone had any tests on them while I was using them, and once I got my IPV2, I didn't use my mechanicals again until it(and the replacement for the issue with a pre-order) bit the dust...and by that point, I was vaping around a power level that my 18490's could handle. However, I do believe I remember(now) it being a blurry point of them being "25 Amp" cells...even though they got pretty warm around the 20 Amp mark, they didn't get warmer as they got up to 25 Amps.

I had VTC5's when they were just an "improved" VTC4, but I had my doubts, and raised all kinds of hell posting about it, when I was getting an excess of heat just running them around 20 Amps...and they weren't handling the loads near as well as the VTC4's...all of that was dismissed as me buying fake batteries, of course.

I suppose, for the OP's and everyone's sake viewing this thread, what are confirmed 30 Amp continuous rated cells? Randomly being able to research is nearly impossible for me these days...even though the little monster/toddler is content with her ipad..which I'm about to disturb. She's taken an interest in hockey already, but I think it's because she is allowed to hit something with a big stick. Oh the joyous times!:)
 

Topwater Elvis

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The only true 30a CDR (continuous discharge rate) cells are LG Chem HB 2, HB4 & HB6 all 1500 mah.
The Sony VTC4 is a 20a CDR cell that can be pushed to 30a, pushing any cell isn't a good idea for any long term use or those concerned about saftey & battery life.

No matter what, as mah increases CDR decreases, there is no way around it.
 
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