weirdness

[bigtmane]

So today my stingray started acting funky. Wouldn't fire. I have to screw the fire button on extremely tight for it to work.. so while n my fave vape store, I grabbed a display stingray model... it fired BUT the button was acting funny after a few drags also.. so I grabbed a brass mech.... here's where my question starts.

First off I have a stillare rda, and I'm using 22g, kanthal, 0.1 ohm.. and my WHO LE mod gets hot (stingray) fire button, sides, battery everything. I put my rda, and battery on the brass mech, and it didn't get hot.. The fire button, the casing, the battery.. Nothing was hot, but the rda, was extremely hot..
Question.. does brass handle heat better than copper? Or is it just me? I know some Will say ""at 0.1 ANYTHING will get hot... I get that ... BUT i took a good 5-6 4-5 second drags, and it stayed cool.. on my stingray, after 2-4 hits the WHILE thing including the batt are piping hot.... Please help
I guess I could have said that from the beginning lol.

 

[bluecat]

While I don't know if it the same as your case, I can say my brass mech ddoesn't warm up as fast as my ss mech. I don't subohm. I just change vape with a kick. If you google metal and heat conductivity it will show the different values. It has been awhile since I have looked at it but brass is a poor conductor compared to ss.

 

[bigtmane]

Well, it's more so brass vs copper... it hit pretty dang hard (the brass) when I was in the store. But the heat was completely different. Like night and day..

 

[bluecat]

Sorry mate. I missed the copper reference. I don't have copper but you could look at the heat conductivity charts and see.

 

[Hill]

I would say you could try raising your Ohms a little. But I'm sure you sub-ohmers don't want to hear that so I'll move along.

 

[crxess]

If you are super heating 1 mod and not another:
Same Battery
Same Atty

Something is out of whack with the HOT Mod. Maybe the switch was funky. Maybe you were pinch shorting the Atty.

If you are not wise enough to NOT use a Mod that is rapidly heating, you have no business near .1 or even .5ohm.
If you have no comprehension as to how a Mod functions and what can cause an issue, you need to back up and regroup.

 

[bigtmane]

I'm always around .5 w 28G, wire. Only thing I'm confused about is if brass stays cooler, while copper gets hotter.. that's all....
No shorts .... I know the difference between dangerously hot and just freaking hot from running a 0.1 ohm coil. But the brass seemed to stay cool , while the copper got hot. Just trying to figure out of there's something to that...

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Just freaking hot = dangerously hot, hope you own a very accurate multi/ohm meter a great authentic battery & insurance policy.

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

A hot mod body is unsatisfactory at any ohm level, period.

You may have conductivity issues across the threads and or other metal to metal areas where oxidation could inhibit the flow of electricity, juice dripping from the Stillare, or dirt can cause this issue as well.

Or the battery you are using is not sufficient to safely run 0.1 ohm.

If the same battery and RDA do not cause this issue on another mod, your mod is the failure point.

As for heat, copper is less resistant than brass which is less resistant than stainless steel to the flow of electricity, the more resistance you have the hotter the metal will become as electricity flows through it.

You should not experience a heated mod body or switch due to the electricity that flows through it if it is clean and designed and manufactured properly regardless of the metal type. If you do there is an issue with the mod.

However if the battery is heating up for any reason the mod will as well. If the battery is heating up you have a very serious problem on your hands.

Maurice

 

[Sucker_dad]

I had a mech getting hot like this on me. I kept checking resistance and everything seemed fine. What i narrowed it down to was the threads were all gunked up and it was causing a lot of resistance at the switch. Every time I fired it the switch would get a little toasty. A really good cleaning with some strong detergent and a toothbrush fixed the problem.

 

[Soignee]

I had a mech getting hot like this on me. I kept checking resistance and everything seemed fine. What i narrowed it down to was the threads were all gunked up and it was causing a lot of resistance at the switch. Every time I fired it the switch would get a little toasty. A really good cleaning with some strong detergent and a toothbrush fixed the problem.

I had a mod that went hot on me all of a sudden, nearly killed the battery (it's relegated to my Vamo now). Took me 2 days to track down a tiny hair/fiber/something ball lodged under the negative post/ring (think shape of thumb tack). That was a real PITA until I blew into the bottom tube.

 

[bigtmane]

Thanks for the replies. I use vtc 5 Batteries, number 1..
2- at .3-.5 ohm, it stays relatively cool. At .1 the whole thing gets pretty warm. The tank gets really hot of course. The battery does NOT get hot. Just really warm I should say... I haven't cleaned it in about a month. So ill give it a good cleaning.
I just find it odd that it seemed like the brass mech
Under the same stress w the same battery and build and dropper didn't get hot at all....

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

Thanks for the replies. I use vtc 5 Batteries, number 1..
2- at .3-.5 ohm, it stays relatively cool. At .1 the whole thing gets pretty warm. The tank gets really hot of course. The battery does NOT get hot. Just really warm I should say... I haven't cleaned it in about a month. So ill give it a good cleaning.
I just find it odd that it seemed like the brass mech
Under the same stress w the same battery and build and dropper didn't get hot at all....

That certainly points a flaw in the mechanical mod, either the design, construction, or cleanliness.

When I speak of design, I mean the actual design of the mod itself lacking in adequate current carrying capacity for the load you are placing on it.

When I speak of construction, I mean both the actual machining of the metal and tolerances as well as how it was/is assembled by you.

Cleanliness refers to any surface that is not free of oxidation or foreign matter that inhibits conductivity across metal joints.

In my opinion not all mods are designed to run at 0.10 ohm, and I would consider the Stingray a poor choice for use at that ohm level. A better device would have a single tube for the 18650 size battery, run only in hybrid mode (positive terminal of battery contacting the positive post of the 510 connector directly), and would most certainly not use magnets in the switch (which can fail under heat stress allowing an inadvertent constant fire situation).

I would seriously consider another mod for such low ohm use.

Maurice

 

[bigtmane]

Ok, thanks!!!!! I cleaned the threads and that helped a TON. I love the SR, but I'm in the market for a new one. I just ordered last night. But it's brass.. I'm considering the King v2, in a couple weeks tho.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Thanks for the replies. I use vtc 5 Batteries, number 1..
2- at .3-.5 ohm, it stays relatively cool. At .1 the whole thing gets pretty warm. The tank gets really hot of course. The battery does NOT get hot. Just really warm I should say... I haven't cleaned it in about a month. So ill give it a good cleaning.
I just find it odd that it seemed like the brass mech
Under the same stress w the same battery and build and dropper didn't get hot at all....

Sub ohm vaping safely means never exceeding the battery's maximum continuous discharge amp rating.
Smart sub ohm vapers leave a margin of amps x/% below/under the max continuous discharge amp rating as headroom /safety cushion.

People that sub ohm at resistances equal to or above the maximum continuous discharge amp rating do not under stand the definition of the word safe or ignore it.
Then there is the accuracy of equipment used to test coils and substandard re wrapped fake mislabeled batteries to consider.

4.2v / .1 = 42 amps & 176.4 watts.
12 amps over the maximum continuous discharge amp rating of the battery.

 

[bigtmane]

Honestly I usually stay around 0.3- 0.5. The 0.1 I was running isn't a everyday build. It's a every now and then build. Today I'm back to my norm (0.4 today) my main thing was if brass will stay cooler .. In other words will a copper mech get warm faster than a brass one.

 

[vapdivrr]

Sub ohm vaping safely means never exceeding the battery's maximum continuous discharge amp rating.
Smart sub ohm vapers leave a margin of amps x/% below/under the max continuous discharge amp rating as headroom /safety cushion.

People that sub ohm at resistances equal to or above the maximum continuous discharge amp rating do not under stand the definition of the word safe or ignore it.
Then there is the accuracy of equipment used to test coils and substandard re wrapped fake mislabeled batteries to consider.

4.2v / .1 = 42 amps & 176.4 watts.
12 amps over the maximum continuous discharge amp rating of the battery.

Personally I don't even use drippers that much and when I do, .4 is the lowest I go but I would suspect that with a .1 build you are not close to 4.2v. I'm with you on saying 4.2 just for safety margin but most mods at such a low resistance is going to have voltage loss and at .1, this voltage loss could be quite high. Every one of my mechs at my .4 resistance actually reads about 3.7v after v loss which actually makes a big difference in the numbers as you know

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

Personally I don't even use drippers that much and when I do, .4 is the lowest I go but I would suspect that with a .1 build you are not close to 4.2v. I'm with you on saying 4.2 just for safety margin but most mods at such a low resistance is going to have voltage loss and at .1, this voltage loss could be quite high. Every one of my mechs at my .4 resistance actually reads about 3.7v after v loss which actually makes a big difference in the numbers as you know

This is absolutely true, however the delivered voltage would need to be as low as 3.0 to hold the discharge at 30 amps. That's a huge drop on a brass mod, I'd expect a fully charged battery to deliver no less than 3.9 volts to the coil.

Maurice

 

[vapdivrr]

This is absolutely true, however the delivered voltage would need to be as low as 3.0 to hold the discharge at 30 amps. That's a huge drop on a brass mod, I'd expect a fully charged battery to deliver no less than 3.9 volts to the coil.

Maurice

I agree and that's why I don't mess with stuff that low. My brass mod does have the lowest v loss at 3.8v at .4 ohms so I'm sure some better ones are more efficient. I guess those who go that low don't really care on continues rates and feel ok basing on pulse rating, me, the vape at .4 is more then enough when I do decide to drip.

 

[Bunnykiller]

do you live in England and use hand towels to vape with??? I saw a video of a guy in England do the same thing and his battery exploded.... blamed it on the battery being cheap...

and BTW get a copper Panzer.... when the battery goes, it wont become a grenade... those thin walled mechs blow apart into tiny sharp pieces...