weirdness

[Ms82082]

So today my stingray started acting funky. Wouldn't fire. I have to screw the fire button on extremely tight for it to work.. so while n my fave vape store, I grabbed a display stingray model... it fired BUT the button was acting funny after a few drags also.. so I grabbed a brass mech.... here's where my question starts.

First off I have a stillare rda, and I'm using 22g, kanthal, 0.1 ohm.. and my WHO LE mod gets hot (stingray) fire button, sides, battery everything. I put my rda, and battery on the brass mech, and it didn't get hot.. The fire button, the casing, the battery.. Nothing was hot, but the rda, was extremely hot..
Question.. does brass handle heat better than copper? Or is it just me? I know some Will say ""at 0.1 ANYTHING will get hot... I get that ... BUT i took a good 5-6 4-5 second drags, and it stayed cool.. on my stingray, after 2-4 hits the WHILE thing including the batt are piping hot.... Please help
I guess I could have said that from the beginning lol.

I have a copper Stingray and run. . 19ohm 22g build it gets warm but never super hot. Sounds like maybe you are having and issue with arcing or a short imo.

 

[likeego]

I own a VTC5 and know that they cannot handle a .1 ohm build safely (like someone else mentioned, that draws 12 amps too much). I'd say that you shouldn't go any lower than .3 ohms (maybe .2 ohms). Try to keep your builds to max 75% of the rated continuous current draw just to be extra safe. That's my opinion.

 

[daveymist]

.1 ohm at 4.2 volts =42 amps ez.

 

[daveymist]

If your mod was getting hot don't fret it too bad. Since the added resistance was in series with your atty then you where pulling more than .1 ohm. Probably alot higher since you couldn't get a hit off the atty.

 

[ughmassa]

Could be a short inside your dirty @$$ mod

 

[ughmassa]

Also heat transfer in copper is second only to aluminum. EDUCATE