What am i doing wrong on my rba and reo-vv. long time between button depression and optimal heat

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flexsr

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I am currently using robs rba on my vv reo. I also own a reo grande and after 3 years of war in needs to go back to rob for tune up.

Ive only been making coils for about a month. Just getting it to work watching a youtube video felt great. Lol Seemed to vape great in beginning but the more i practice and make coils the worst i seem to get.

Ive read alot on the reo sub forum and youtube videos and my coils seem similar to ones ive seen on you tube. Mine seem tight n positioned correctly.

The One major thing is that it seems like awhile to heat up and get that warm good vapor - almost a good 3-4 seconds. I draw into my mouth first then my lungs so its not end of world. Vapor starts after about a half second or so but it seems to slowly climb to the optimal heat n vapor production (3 seconds)... My coil seems to burn red hot when i dry fire and i squeeze together w my finger off button to tighten further. I have also followed some of the other tips n tricks. Even cranking voltage up it seems like it takes a while for coil to heat up. I noticed this cause recently got bAck into experimenting with vaping and i had an old mechanical mod with a bottom botton and as soon as i touch that button warm clouds seem to appear instantly. Its the old puresmoker 3.1 basic mod.

Anyways is there anything i can do to decrease the time as to when i press the button for the vapor to start and optimal temperature to be reached with the rba. My batteries seem like a loose fit since day one - the two 18350 barely seem to reach the positive end of the mod. Not sure if that is a factor? Overall things seem decent but when i took that old puresmoker mod out of the box to figit with it seemed instantaneous as to button depression and heat/vapor

Any suggestions no matter how weird are welcomed.

Im curious to see if i get the same problem on my grande when i get it back from repair

Thanks much

Scott

Ps. Thank you to all that have provided info on the rba and videos with the reo. Watched many of them numerous times. Would be completely lost without you people who take time out of your day to share your knowledge.
 

JC Okie

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Hi, flexsr. I know that when I use 28 gauge wire, it takes it longer to heat up than when I use 32 gauge wire. The 32 gauge wire is almost instantaneous. On the VV Grand, I wrap coils using the 32 gauge because I'm usually wrapping higher ohm coils. I don't know what gauge wire you're using, but the thicker the wire (lower the gauge number) the longer it'll take to heat up. Also, your batteries should be snug, so maybe pull your spring up a little. If it's ever been "used" to protect from a short, I'd never suggest that, but if it's new, then just pull it up a little with a pair of tweezers so that your batteries are snug. Also, the way the batteries fit in the VV, sometimes they "list' a little to the left (towards the bottle) so I've put a shim in between the batteries and the bottle to keep them straight and in good contact with the pos. connection.

What gauge wire are you using to wrap your coils?

Jan

EDIT: One more thing.....make sure your post screws are tight. They have a way of working themselves loose sometimes. Especially if you're using bigger gauge wire, the screws won't stay tight. It's just one more thing to check.

another edit: Maybe turn your dial to a little higher voltage.....
 
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Filthy-Beast

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What gauge wire and what ohm coil are you building?

all VV/VW devices have limits on amps, ohm, and voltage that they will drive, a mechanical will not have these limits. So if the coil you're building would run at 22 watts in a mechanical but your VV will only drive 11 watts you'll notice a huge difference. The coils I like, run at 22 watts using the calculator so I would see a drop running them on a VV mod.

I'm not sure of the limits of the VV grand. You should build coils that work in that range using a ohm calculator, here's the one I use Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
 

supertrunker

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It will not fire below about 1.1-1.3Ω coils, so the idea is you build them higher - say 2Ω and then ramp the power up on them until you like them. Thinner wire has higher resistance so it's fewer wraps to get to that 2 Ohm coil.
If you used say 26g (thicker) wire you'd need about 20 wraps and likely run out of space!

T
 

flexsr

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Oh the vv wont fire below that range you listed.

Whats the cheapest way to find out what ohm coil your building ?

Lastly im still having trouble with wattage - i think i kinda get it- if you like vaping at say 12 watts, the machine will take into account what the resistance of your coil is based on (material, length, and gauge (thickness) and give the machine the proper/calculated voltage (input) to produce the given wattage (output) you prefer/program in. (Yes i know the reo doesnt have this feature but just curious).
 

Filthy-Beast

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Correct. A change in voltage or resistance will change the wattage produced and the amount of amps required to produce it.

Fast tech sells a $10 ohm meter but it will take weeks to arrive, a cheap volt/ohm meter from Harbor Freight also works but not as convenient, though it can also be used to test battery voltage.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I sub ohm a fully charged battery at 4.2v and want to change batteries when it drops to 3.7 or below. You also have to consider airflow. Lots of airflow cools the coils and vapor. My 22 watt sub ohm coils with a cyclone or RM2 drilled air hole are a cooler vap than a 2.5 ohm atty on my eVic at 9 watts.
 

super_X_drifter

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Flex, I like to roll up a 2ish ohm coil on my VVG. That said, I got me some 29 gauge Kanthal A1 just for it.

I wrap up like a 14 wrap micro coil for it with the 29 and it is an amazing vape and allows full range of power adjustment.

You should have no problem getting the warmth of vape your looking for on your VV with either 29 or 30 ga. I don't run thicker (or thinner) wire on it and always shoot for around 2ish ohms :)
 

flexsr

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Mudflap - . First time i heard of twisting was yesterday. My understanding is twisting makes the wire thicker so it will have less resistance. Is that true ? So 32 gauge is relatively thin and high in resistance and the twisting will make it lower in resistance ? What are benefits of this system as opposed to just using a 29 or 30 gauge wire? Just tinkering n found it worked out well?

Thank you for the 2.0 ohm info on the reo. I watch all these sub ohm videos - so i i never knew that reo vv worked best at 2.0
resistance until you n super x mentioned it
 

Mudflap

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Twisting the wire does lower the resistance but the variations in the surface area of the coil impacts the flavor. You may detect various notes that you didn't perceive with a single strand coil of the same resistance. It's easy and cheap to experiment with, so my :2c: is to give it a shot and make up your own mind. There's a lot more to how well an atomizer performs other than the resistance of the coil and the amount of voltage supplied to it. There's also coil placement, surface area of the coil, number of coils, size of the air chamber, size of the air hole(s), placement of the air hole(s), and probably some other factors that don't come to mind right now.

One of the coolest things about rebuildables is that when it really performs well and exceeds your expectations, it's most gratifying because you set it up that way yourself.
 

flexsr

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Superx - yeah now that i have ohm reader and more experience with the coils and there performance you are dead on- a build 1.8-2 is perfect for the vv- reo for the reasons you mentioned. !

The .8-1.2 is great for the grande - of course can go lower if desire

But that was spot - i came to same conclusion and was stumbling over some older posts n questions i asked etc.

Im out like trout - time for a vape...
 
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