What are the ideal batteries for a Smok GX350?

[lysianassa]

I think the takeaway is to get batteries suitable for your mod at the levels you expect to use it at, and get the batteries from repped suppliers like lion, IMR, and Illum. And to use good old common sense when dealing with these cells that pack AN INCREDIBLE amount of energy versus the duracells we all grew up sticking in our walkmans.

 

[medleypat]

Yes very smart lady. Also remember don't carry loose batteries in your pocket or purse.

 

[lysianassa]

Very smart MAN, lol. Lysianassa was a nereid that protected sailors. I still use her name whenver I sail, vape, or both. And on online forums. I named my boat after her, and she's never let me down, even in a Force 10 gale. But it's a common mistake to assume that from the name. Lysianassa - Wikipedia

 

[KenD]

Check the links that Brother Bob provided, they cover this information.

And these "Fire/Efest/Aspire, etc." batteries are all rewraps. None produce their own batteries and many have been stripped and showned to be from any of the actual manufacturers and identified as particular models, BUT under testing, they never balance out to the rating to the "identical" name brand versions.

Again, Mooch provides all this.

So you could have 4 Efest/Aspire, FireXXX battery and none would have the same capacity of the next, so to put unbalanced batteries that cannot be married in any multi-battery mod (or any other device) is going to result in issues.

You might believe in your OPINION, but these are facts...

Note that others have also provided confirmation about what I stated in this thread. And as per that google search link, you'll easily find as many links needed to confirm this and someone with common sense wouldn't stand "by their opinion" and would realize that it's time to learn something new/change their opinion.

Aspire apparently does manufacture their own batteries.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[KenD]

I have never heard of the Efest Batteries being problematic and I keep my eye on the forums. The one complaint that I've heard is that Efest has overrated the batteries at times By listing the burst mode aka Pulse Mode as being the continuous mode.

Efest, and other rewrappers, have been known to switch out what's under the wrapper without warning. That means that you can't really trust the cells. You could look up Mooch's test of the particular Rest battery you're using, see that it's good for 10 amps, but you're particular battery might be from a different batch and good only for 5 amps.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Smoke_too_much]

An interesting and educational discussion. Thanks guys.

 

[Mike McVape]

As far as the tests, mind you, remember @Mooch does battery testing as part of his job outside of vaping and been doing it for years, bringing his expertise to benefit us as vapers.

Mooch's battery tests
Index | E-Cigarette Forum

You are also wrong on your belief in the GX350 the CDR load is balanced across all batteries, there are 2 battery configurations, the one you are thinking of is parallel where the load is balanced, the GX350 and 95% of other high powered devices are in "Series Configuration" where the voltage is X number of batteries, but the CDR and Mah stay the same as a single battery.

Hate to make the call out, but with a registration date of 2009 might want to catch up to date of current events with batteries, just saying.

Sorry but 99.99% sure you have that backwards. They ARE in parallel with voltage constant, current and power increased by number of batteries and their respective capabilities.

 

[IMFire3605]

Sorry but 99.99% sure you have that backwards. They ARE in parallel with voltage constant, current and power increased by number of batteries and their respective capabilities.

Batt A (+) Up, Batt B (-) Up, Batt C (+) Up, Batt D (-) Up

Pretty sure the GX350 is a full series battery configuration, if not full series then it is 2 separate series sleds in parallel (para-series or series parallel) which is kind of a hybrid, the Wismec RX300 uses this para-series config

Parallel = voltage of a single battery, or in the case of a para-series voltage of a single series sled, mah X number batteries/sleds, theoretically CDR X number batteries/sleds, but for safety and things not being equal it is suggested CDR battery/sled 1 100% CDR, CDR of battery/sled 2 +50% CDR, etc
Series = voltage X number of batteries in the series, mah of a single battery, CDR of a single battery.

Assuming a para-series like the RX300, 30amp CDR batteries (LG HB6 1500mah 30amp CDR being used in examples), so series sled one we get 30amp CDR from that pair, series sled 2 we safely gain +15amps CDR (30 X 50% = 15), total amp load 45amps CDR, using the reversed formula of Watts/Lowest Voltage/90% Mod Efficiency = Amps into Amps X 90% Mod Efficiency X Lowest Voltage = Maximum Watts

45amps X 0.9 (or 90%) X 6.4v (or 3.2v per battery) = 259.2 Watts Maximum

yet if if is a full series mod

30amps X 0.9 X 12.8v (3.2v per battery) = 345.6 Maximum Watts

So pretty sure it is a series only mod, the math doesn't lie

 

[Mike McVape]

Batt A (+) Up, Batt B (-) Up, Batt C (+) Up, Batt D (-) Up

Pretty sure the GX350 is a full series battery configuration, if not full series then it is 2 separate series sleds in parallel (para-series or series parallel) which is kind of a hybrid, the Wismec RX300 uses this para-series config

Parallel = voltage of a single battery, or in the case of a para-series voltage of a single series sled, mah X number batteries/sleds, theoretically CDR X number batteries/sleds, but for safety and things not being equal it is suggested CDR battery/sled 1 100% CDR, CDR of battery/sled 2 +50% CDR, etc
Series = voltage X number of batteries in the series, mah of a single battery, CDR of a single battery.

Assuming a para-series like the RX300, 30amp CDR batteries (LG HB6 1500mah 30amp CDR being used in examples), so series sled one we get 30amp CDR from that pair, series sled 2 we safely gain +15amps CDR (30 X 50% = 15), total amp load 45amps CDR, using the reversed formula of Watts/Lowest Voltage/90% Mod Efficiency = Amps into Amps X 90% Mod Efficiency X Lowest Voltage = Maximum Watts

45amps X 0.9 (or 90%) X 6.4v (or 3.2v per battery) = 259.2 Watts Maximum

yet if if is a full series mod

30amps X 0.9 X 12.8v (3.2v per battery) = 345.6 Maximum Watts

So pretty sure it is a series only mod, the math doesn't lie

The math doesn't lie assuming assumptions you made are correct. But they are assumptions made without schematics and do not jive with what I observe. Just because batteries happen to be inserted in opposite directions does NOT necessarily mean they are in series. Depends on internal wiring not just external placement.

What I observe displayed with my Smok GX2/4:
In 2 battery configuration LG HE4s 20A bats
@.15ohm coil ~1.75sec fire
60w = 3.092v = 18.42A
70w = 3.322v = 19.77A
80w = 3.553v = 21.17A
@.12ohm coil
120w = 3.743v = 30.22A
180w = 4.519v = 37.07A
didn't want to push it further in 2 battery config

In 4 battery config same .12ohm coil/atty
120w = 3.737v = 31.42A
180w = 4.492v = 37.75A
250w = 5.323v = 44.73A
didn't to push that particular coil harder

Clearly voltage does increase but very slightly compared to wattage and amp current draw increase. And amps increase far beyond the capacity of a single 20A battery or straight series of batteries. Though could in fact be within burst current range, idk. FWIW while I do have a degree in Electronic Engineering I left Corporate American and that field 15 years ago...

 

[stols001]

Okay I'm not touching the battery issue, other than to state I always use IMR batteries, I even accidentally ordered the wrong battery (too high for me, in fact) and they were happy to refund my order and allow me to re-purchase. They were super nice about it, too.

I did want to mention the coughing issue? If you are vaping at *100 watts* and 12 nic on a DL device, I'm not surprised you are having coughing fits, I'm surprised you aren't coughing your lungs straight onto the floor before you.

I too started vaping this time on a DL device at 12 nic, thinking I would work well... It didn't. I was only vaping at 40 watts, too, but it was just too much for my smoker's throat and lungs. I coughed like crazy, thinking it was just nic withdrawal, someone kindly on the forum pointed out it was probably nic overload, if anything. With the wattage you are using, you really need to start at 6 mg and also slowly work your way UP to a comfortable vape for you. It may be less watts than you think you "need" and often we think that it's imperative to go by the recommended wattage on the coil, which may be high. I think you may be over nicotizing yourself, possibly.

You might want to check out a good MTL tank as well, as some people find being able to vape higher nic (I use 18 mg in mine) can be helpful with cravings without blowing your head off (figuratively, unlike a venting battery issue). It's just at thought. But the coughing fits should be paid attention to, that's not normal.

I think you MAY have gotten rewraps. It's not unusual for vape stores though if you think about it, it's idiocy, why sell a user a product that at best won't function well and at worst will injure/scare a customer! I need my hands to operate the fire button! That said, you can replace them fairly easily.

Good luck! And happy vaping (and less arguing?)

Anna

 

[stols001]

Oh, and you may have a PG sensitivity. I do. I was upping my vaping thinking I would head of pneumonia, the PG enhanced it. So I use 100% VG and it may be a pain at times when it comes to coils (I'm not allergic, I can drink it for example, but I cannot vape it.) It is somehow too irritating. So I just deal, put a few drops of H20 in my tank, and use slightly more coils.

Anna