What Build Should I Get?

[Chelsea Ann Hall]

Currently I have an MVP 20 watt box, and an Aspire nautilus tank. I get bored of juices fairly fast and am always switching it out and go through coils like crazy. My brother in law has a FU clone mod and some kind of RDA that's super wide bore. He explained to me how to do it, curl gauged wire on a screwdriver to make a coil and then put a piece of wick through it ? Then screw in one end and then the other end on positive and negative sides?. I think that was it.

I mean is it really that hard to do? I'm not dumb or anything, just not too good at new things. I would kind of like to keep my 20 watt box, and get some kind of RDA or something better than the tank I have because I can barely taste it it seems. (The box I have won't fire sub ohm, but the new MVP 3.0's will, I knew I'd end up regretting not getting it.)

But if I try to set up a single coil or whatever, couldn't I run the MVP 20w that I have without subohm? I'm looking for cheapest yet effective ways, I am scared of clones because they will probably blow up but my brother's F U battery has lasted a long time. Just don't want the battery to explode in my face.

Please give me options and opinions/whatever!

 

[yuseffuhler]

Currently I have an MVP 20 watt box, and an Aspire Nautilus tank. I get bored of juices fairly fast and am always switching it out and go through coils like crazy. My brother in law has a FU clone mod and some kind of RDA that's super wide bore. He explained to me how to do it, curl gauged wire on a screwdriver to make a coil and then put a piece of wick through it ? Then screw in one end and then the other end on positive and negative sides?. I think that was it.

I mean is it really that hard to do? I'm not dumb or anything, just not too good at new things. I would kind of like to keep my 20 watt box, and get some kind of RDA or something better than the tank I have because I can barely taste it it seems. (The box I have won't fire sub ohm, but the new MVP 3.0's will, I knew I'd end up regretting not getting it.)

But if I try to set up a single coil or whatever, couldn't I run the MVP 20w that I have without subohm? I'm looking for cheapest yet effective ways, I am scared of clones because they will probably blow up but my brother's F U battery has lasted a long time. Just don't want the battery to explode in my face.

Please give me options and opinions/whatever!

Rebuildable tanks or drippers, the ones you put your own coil and wick in, can absolutely be run at higher ohms and less than 20 watts. The current trend for new devices and drippers/tanks is for high wattage, low ohms, but there are a lot of options for your mod. Your summary on how to do the coil building is right, but you should learn about resistance (ohms) and how to get your desired resistance. For wick, I use Japanese organic cotton mostly because it comes in sheets that can be cut with scissors to the size I need. If you have any specific questions, I'd love to help.

 

[edyle]

Currently I have an MVP 20 watt box, and an Aspire Nautilus tank. I get bored of juices fairly fast and am always switching it out and go through coils like crazy. My brother in law has a FU clone mod and some kind of RDA that's super wide bore. He explained to me how to do it, curl gauged wire on a screwdriver to make a coil and then put a piece of wick through it ? Then screw in one end and then the other end on positive and negative sides?. I think that was it.

I mean is it really that hard to do? I'm not dumb or anything, just not too good at new things. I would kind of like to keep my 20 watt box, and get some kind of RDA or something better than the tank I have because I can barely taste it it seems. (The box I have won't fire sub ohm, but the new MVP 3.0's will, I knew I'd end up regretting not getting it.)

But if I try to set up a single coil or whatever, couldn't I run the MVP 20w that I have without subohm? I'm looking for cheapest yet effective ways, I am scared of clones because they will probably blow up but my brother's F U battery has lasted a long time. Just don't want the battery to explode in my face.

Please give me options and opinions/whatever!

get yourself a simple rda and some 28 gauge kanthal - you will probably also be able to get a coiler - example the kuro coiler
wrap 6 wraps on a 2mm diameter and put that on your 20 watt box.
should vape fine at 10 to 15 watts
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

the fuhattan is a 'mechanical' mod; basically it's just a container for the battery; no protection.
Best to avoid those things until you have more experience with battery safety.
I use mechanical mods myself but I use dropin kick modules in mine.

 

[suprtrkr]

It's not hard to do, but there's a lot to know to do it well. A good coil calculator is helpful, and is the Ohm's Law Calculator. I have been building for years, and I like it for it's own sake. It's also a lot cheaper than store-bought coils. Takes a few bucks to buy tools and wire and so forth, but once you have them, you can coil practically forever for nothing.

 

[NoFumus]

Currently I have an MVP 20 watt box, and an Aspire Nautilus tank.

Please give me options and opinions/whatever!

I have an iStick 30W and an Nautilus mini. I also recently purchased a Lemo. I've been building 1.5 ohm coils for it, and turning the air flow down quite a bit. It's still more flavorful than the Nautilus, so those kinds of options might work well for you, even if they would make all the folks on the RTA forum shake their heads.

Even when I build my coils at 1.2, I usually vape below 20, which I think means it would work for what you have now.

 

[GoBlue88]

I have several threads running in the coil forum in which I show my first build and some folks helped me troubleshoot it, it should be helpful to you.

You can use your 20W easily.

You must use the coil calculator that supertrkr linked and you must get an ohm meter.

You should be able to mimic the performance of your nautilus (in terms of wattage and resistance) but you absolutely need to understand the information others have linked above.

RDAs are like driving a manual car tho, it's more active vaping experience but you get more control/versatility.

If I said it before I'm saying it again - you need to understand safe coil building and operation with your battery in order to do an RDA.

My experience has been positive and I do recommend investigating further if it's for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GoBlue88]

Brand new to dripping-looking for some info/ support | E-Cigarette Forum


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[suprtrkr]

I have an iStick 30W and an Nautilus mini. I also recently purchased a Lemo. I've been building 1.5 ohm coils for it, and turning the air flow down quite a bit. It's still more flavorful than the Nautilus, so those kinds of options might work well for you, even if they would make all the folks on the RTA forum shake their heads.

Even when I build my coils at 1.2, I usually vape below 20, which I think means it would work for what you have now.

Which Lemo? I've got a 2 that rocks the house. Ok, I run the air wide open and usually coil it at .5 or so with Kanthal-- it's wearing a Ni200 build right now-- but yeah, the flavor is pretty amazing for a tank. I like it better than most drippers.

 

[NoFumus]

Which Lemo? I've got a 2 that rocks the house. Ok, I run the air wide open and usually coil it at .5 or so with Kanthal-- it's wearing a Ni200 build right now-- but yeah, the flavor is pretty amazing for a tank. I like it better than most drippers.

I have V1. Building the coil at 1.5 was your suggestion, so if I tootle-puff my RTA I have you to thank.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

I currently have 12 active RTAs and 2 RDAs. I seem to lose flavor after about 2 hours.

 

[NoFumus]

I currently have 12 active RTAs and 2 RDAs. I seem to lose flavor after about 2 hours.

You have one or more lemo v1s, don't you?

 

[Romano Cheese]

MVP 20w's minimum is 1 ohm so as long as you don't go below that it will work. And the MVP has a chip in it for a safety feature to make sure there aren't battery explosions. The FUhattan on the other hand is a mechanical mod, no regulating chip for safety just straight battery power - those you can mess up and cause battery venting. Learn to walk before you run. And don't fear the clones, sometimes they make better versions of the original...like the FUhattan.

 

[sparkky1]

Sigelei Mini 30W Box Mod Authentic

Aeolus RDA Atomizer Clone - 88eVape

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

You could use 20watts but you will soon find out a little more watts takes less time to heat the coils and produce more vapor in less time, not trying to make you spend more money but save it in the long run........

 

[Spencer87]

I had an MVP, and it was about the time I Started getting in to Rebuildables. Rebuilding is SUPER easy. So Easy. test out the ohms.

But if you are going to get in to rebuildables, They are either best suited on a mechanical mod, or a high powered regulated mod. I usually go up to around 50-75 watts.
If you do want to get in to Mechanicals then read these.
(9) Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR? | E-Cigarette Forum
(12) Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries - Part I | E-Cigarette Forum

Then read a few more (Past number 10)
Baditude's blog | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[suprtrkr]

I have V1. Building the coil at 1.5 was your suggestion, so if I tootle-puff my RTA I have you to thank.

I remember us talking about it, just not which tank I'm glad it's working for you. That's the beauty part of RTAs; you can tweak them to do anything so long as you don't exceed their maximums. I don't think anybody will laugh at you over in the RTA forum. I'm not. Building just makes sense, at least to me, and there's nothing wrong with tootle puffing if that's where your vape is. Oddly enough, I don't use a lot more wattage than you. In fact I often build coils in the 1.5 range because I like dual coil tanks (the Lemo being an exception) and I'm usually shooting for the .7ish range. On a mech-- my "car mod" is a MMV Nanos in 18350 trim-- .7 is only 25 watts at full charge, and down to 17.5 at 3.5 volts. Today the Nanos is wearing a Kayfun V4 at 1.0 Ohms-- Cinnamon Red Hots today, she likes a bit cooler vape-- only making 17.5 at full charge. Not *quite* tootle puffing; my KF4 has the subohm kit with the wide air tube. But not far from, either ;-)

 

[Frenchfry1942]

You have one or more lemo v1s, don't you?

Yes, When I find something I like, I stick with it. Well, I used to in the earlier days. I had, I think, 6-7 Nautiluses with colored glass tanks., The I started rebuilding on a Kayfun 3.1 ES and Lites and it was great, so they became my primary. That was when I got started with rebuilding. I found a place that makes colored, darker than pastel, glass tanks. I think I had 6-7 of those, but, a couple are PIF'd and the others are...in a drawer somewhere.

I then got a Lemo V1 and they became primary. I didn't have they security to have a bunch of different RTAs when out and about. I was reducing my nic and I stuck to simplicity of not having to carry spare stuff around.

As I have moved up, I've PIF'd them out locally.

I currently have 4 Lemo V1s with colored tanks now. I also have an eXpromizer, 4 x Kayfun V4 with colored tanks, 2 x Taifun GT2, 2 SubTank Mini with colored tanks and 2 x SQuapes Rs enroute. I am trying to find a quality Rose V2 clone, also.

All-in-all, I lose flavor taste rather quickly and so I change toppers a feeew times a day. Often I just run two systems and if I leave the house, I take both. I have a breakfast (strong) tank that has Banana Nut Bread in it right now. A bunch for daily use and then I use the RDAs for dripping samplers in the evening. I think my TC tanks will be for middle of the day use.

The Lemos and the KF4s work the best for me. Oh, I just saw a KF 3.1, so it is still being used.

I don't mind a good clone for a topper and, to me, that is like going to yard sales. Looking, I have 2 authentic RTAs, not counting the inexpensive Lemos. But, my mods, I am not chincy about.

Hope Helps

 

[NoFumus]

Yes, When I find something I like, I stick with it.

I then got a Lemo V1 and they became primary. I didn't have they security to have a bunch of different RTAs when out and about. I was reducing my nic and I stuck to simplicity of not having to carry spare stuff around.

Hope Helps

Thank kind of helps. I asked because I thought you might have been the person who posted on another thread about owning multiple Lemo V1s, which might make you something of an expert.

I haven't given up on rebuilding the Nautilus coils, but i don't want to buy any more. I'd like to buy another RTA or two, and am thinking of more of the Lemo V1s. At $20, buying at least one more can't be a mistake, but I'd like to consider other options, too. I looked at some of the various RTAs that were suggested as entry points in other threads, and didn't see any that would obviously be better choices for me.

I like have a glass tank, but maybe it's not as necessary as I think, or maybe it's an aesthetic issue for me. From what I've read, improvements in more recent RTAs include improved air flow, but I usually vape my Lemo at far below it's maximum air flow with a smaller drip tip, so that wouldn't necessarily be a feature enhancement that would benefit me.

Top filling and the ability to build without emptying the tank would be nice, but after the first time I dumped a couple mls of juice in my lap (I think that was muscle memory/habit from using the nautilus), I made a polymer clay plug for the top, so I can more or less do that now.

Given all that, can you suggest other options I should look at?

Thanks.