WHAT COILS TO USE?

[F-machine]

A single 18650 inside a SMOK PRIV V8 mod with a TFV8 Baby Beast tank. The pre built coils are gone now, dead and burnt so I bought a replacement for it and it has dual coil features. I think it cannot power the coils properly as it stops every 2 or 3 seconds not even heating up the thing. If I remove one coil and it's alright, but the vent holes on the other empty coil space just makes me suck more air than vapor. I think it needs 2 coils to work best but what coils do I need that my single battery can power and not die so quickly?

Like I said, the tank is "still" TFV8 Baby beast, but since the pre built coils are dead gone, I bought this RBA that fits inside the tank. The included coils are not heating up, one wrap on one of the coils will amber up, but that's it. Power cuts out and it's unusable. What do I do?

This is the whole kit when I first got it, if these images can help.

 

[Eskie]

It sounds like the coils are improperly mounted on the posts. Do you have photos of your actual build? Not the promo shots, but what you're actually working with.

 

[VapourFlavour]

A single 18650 inside a SMOK PRIV V8 mod with a TFV8 Baby Beast tank. The pre built coils are gone now, dead and burnt so I bought a replacement for it and it has dual coil features. I think it cannot power the coils properly as it stops every 2 or 3 seconds not even heating up the thing. If I remove one coil and it's alright, but the vent holes on the other empty coil space just makes me suck more air than vapor. I think it needs 2 coils to work best but what coils do I need that my single battery can power and not die so quickly?

Like I said, the tank is "still" TFV8 Baby beast, but since the pre built coils are dead gone, I bought this RBA that fits inside the tank. The included coils are not heating up, one wrap on one of the coils will amber up, but that's it. Power cuts out and it's unusable. What do I do?

This is the whole kit when I first got it, if these images can help.

In addition to what @Eskie asked, what wattage are you firing them at and what are the ohms reading? Also tell us what battery you're using.

 

[F-machine]

It sounds like the coils are improperly mounted on the posts. Do you have photos of your actual build? Not the promo shots, but what you're actually working with.

I think you are 100% correct mate! I removed the coils that came with the package and re-installed them and they both fired up this time!

 

[F-machine]

In addition to what @Eskie asked, what wattage are you firing them at and what are the ohms reading? Also tell us what battery you're using.

This mod has no adjustment or screen. It's unregulated afaik, it only has some protection like short circuit, overshoot and reversed battery protection. it has an "up to" 60 watts depending on coil resistance. The coils that came with the RBA says 0.35 ohm on the packaging. The battery I have is SONY VTC4...

 

[Hawise]

it has an "up to" 60 watts depending on coil resistance. The coils that came with the RBA says 0.35 ohm on the packaging. The battery I have is SONY VTC4...

As long as it's authentic, you've got a decent battery for that setup. I don't know if knowledge, good advice, or simple luck that led you there, but I'll say a bit about battery selection in case it was one of the latter two. The watts a battery can safely produce depend on the battery's CDR. A very rough guide is that your maximum wattage divided by 3 should be lower than the battery's CDR. 60/3 = 20, and a Sony VTC 4 has a 23 amp CDR so that sounds good.

The big problem with batteries is that there are a lot of counterfeits, rewraps and poor quality batteries with false ratings around, so it's hard to tell if your battery really is what it says it says. One rule is to stick to the big four manufacturers: Sony, Samsung, LG and Sanyo/Panasonic. That still leaves the problem of counterfeits. Fortunately, we have some very knowledgeable members here who are familiar with the battery industry and have compiled a list of reliable vendors. Sticking to the list can't guarantee you'll never get a counterfeit, but it lowers your risk because they have reliable supply chains and they spot check their battery shipments to make sure things work as expected.

When you replace your batteries, it's therefore best to use one of the batteries Mooch, our resident battery guru, recommends, and buy from one of the vendors on his chart (vendors are listed in the blue band near the bottom). With your device either the regulated chart or the mech/unregulated chart batteries would be fine, as long as you select a battery with a CDR of over 20. The latest versions of the charts live on Mooch's blog here.

I'm glad you've got your coils sorted out, and I hope things continue to go well!

 

[Coyote628]

Those RBA heads for the smok tanks are nothing but junk and a waste of time IMO. They are too difficult to wick properly and they will most definitely leak. Not worth the trouble.

 

[dom qp]

You're better off spending $10 on an RTA clone that was made to be used as an RTA. You'll have more room and an easier time putting it together.

 

[F-machine]

As long as it's authentic, you've got a decent battery for that setup. I don't know if knowledge, good advice, or simple luck that led you there, but I'll say a bit about battery selection in case it was one of the latter two.

I read a lot of catastrophic results of bad mods/batteries etc in the past so I tried to arm myself with basic knowledge before getting anything, what to get and not. Sadly I still can't confirm if I have authentic one, actually I have two of them in rotation as I charge them outside the mod. Anyways, I ordered an OBS cube as an extra or main vape gear and make this one the back up. I made that choice because I don't wanna mess myself up if ever I bought fake products that would blow up my face. I am in Asia and ordering something half a world away is either impossible or very expensive. I guess the best choice I have are built ins? Your opinion?

 

[F-machine]

You're better off spending $10 on an RTA clone that was made to be used as an RTA. You'll have more room and an easier time putting it together.

I do have a proper RTA. I'm just trying to use that tank again as maybe a back up or something to give away in the future. So I'm not vapeless while asking this post.

Those RBA heads for the smok tanks are nothing but junk and a waste of time IMO. They are too difficult to wick properly and they will most definitely leak. Not worth the trouble.

I must say they are not. It just depends on how you use it, or wick it. It's vaping alright after my issue is solved. It's easier to wick than the kylin RTA I have, well I just have to do it twice, then that makes you right or correct again.

And it doesn't leak. The kylin doesn't leak too but it collects juice in the airflow openings as a result of condensation that will look and feel like leaking. This smok tank doesn't do that for some reason.

 

[F-machine]

One last post since this is already solved... I think this dual coil thing is a waste. Juice gets used up like you are spilling them. The nics kicks like you got hit by a brick. Batteries drained just as quick. Just glad I have a fall back RTA... Thanks for the help and comments! Cheers all!

@admin pls close thank you!