What is the best VV PV on the market today?

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captiancd89

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Hello everyone, I have been out of the loop for a while, I had to sell my pv to pay for bills and then got back into smoking =[. I hate it and I want to start back on the ecig. My question to you is what is the best Veri Voltage Pv on the market right now.

I have around 220$ start up money, that includes juice and extra carts


any help would be very appreciated!

Thank you for your time.

Pete
 

six

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DC2

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I can't believe you haven't gotten more responses...

I think if you took a poll, the hands down winner would be the Provari.
It's probably the most expensive, but you almost never see anyone regretting their purchase.

Now you can wait for those who will argue against the Provari for various reasons.
And you should also listen to what they have to say.
:)
 

MickeyRat

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I'm going to call it like I see it. VV's not that unique anymore and it's soon to be a lot more common place. Anything that has a decent regulator that can handle 3.5A will probably serve your needs and as far as the vape goes, no matter how much or little you spend it makes no difference. So, what would you like in a VV besides VV? That's really how you should make the decision.

I'm vaping a Bolt with a kick in it at the moment and it's a pretty good VV.
 

tj99959

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    In the end all a mod does (VV or not) is supply power to whatever you put on it. So it still boils down to what delivers the TASTE that an individual desires, and what are the combinations that deliver that desired taste. To be blunt, a little 35$ VV box mod from Madvapes can do anything that a Provari can, it just lacks the form factor, and the whistles & bells.
    With a set voltage mod we select what we attach to it to produce our desired taste. With a VV/VW mod we select the voltage/watts to provide that same taste regardless of what we attach. BUT, I would point out that the one thing that remains relatively constant is the vape that we as an individual desire.
    SO, bottom line is HOW we use any given device is more important than what the device is. The best mod on the planet can provide the worse vaping experience you ever imagined anytime you want it to.
     

    John D in CT

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    Six devices/brands come immediately to mind, all with their own particular strengths.

    Provari V2

    Legendary reliablilty, build quality, design, performance, and all-around greatness. Made in the US of A, built like a tank. The Cadillac of APV's. Last I checked, $159 and up without batteries. Want gold-plated? You can get it. I'll be buying a silver one with blue LED if and when they make some more.

    Smoktech VMax

    The new kid on the block. Great performance, uses two x 3.7V AW IMR (safe chemistry) batteries giving it 7.4-8.4V to work with, three-digit LED, heroic 5-amp limit, unproven. Around $100 some places with two batteries. Can cost as much as $128 without batteries. I'm vaping on mine as we speak. Love it. Ignore the hype about the tremendous dangers of "stacked" batteries, but only if you use IMR (Lithium-manganese) batteries, which as I understand it, will not "explode". *

    Joyetech Twist

    Just came out recently. Variable voltage at a very low price. VV between 3.2 to 4.8 volts in the eGo form factor. Some call it a "game changer", and I tend to agree. It is what it is; it is not a replacement for a big-battery VV APV, it's a great little "pocket VV (A)PV". Works best IMO, and very, very well, with a 2.0 - 2.5ohm single coil - like inside a DCT tank, or whatever attachment floats your boat. Available in black, chrome, blue, pink, white. 650, 900, and 1000mah, although not in all combinations. $25-30. Great reviews. I just got 30 of them for starting people out on.

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s-discussion/290152-joyetech-ego-c-twist.html


    Reo VV

    I have never "plonked", but I plan on it. This particular line of bottom-feeders has an avid following that seems to me to be well-deserved. Check 'em all out.

    Lava/Apollo/many re-brands

    Also has a large group of enthusiastic supporters. Comes in many different sizes and variants, all of which seem to work very well, for a very good price, starting at around $50 as I hear it.

    Buzz Pro 2

    Legendary ruggedness and reliability. Have never heard anything bad about them.


    *****

    IMR batteries are "unprotected" batteries, which sounds bad, but IMO isn't. "Protected" batteries typically use an integrated; well, IC - (Integrated Circuit) - to regulate the flow of electricity into and out of them under normal operating conditions. That circuit is typically designed to keep them from being overcharged or discharged too low (which severely damages most or all lithium-based batteries) - but it does nothing whatsoever to mitigate the consequences of an internal short, in which the battery's chemistry dictates the outcome. In the case of an internal short, you're better off, again IMO, with an "unprotected" battery that will not "explode", but will instead get increasingly hot, giving you ample time to drop the PV - than with a "protected" battery that can quickly release energy in a much more violent fashion. I believe that the more 'explosive" types include ICR (lithium cobalt) and LiPo (lithium polymer). The "safer" types include LiFePO4 IIRC.

    In case of an external short (like what would happen if you attached a heavy wire to each end of the battery), an IMR battery would again become increasingly hotter - up to maybe 450-500 F. - but would not "explode".

    Callies Kustoms IMR Battery and AW short circuit observations - YouTube

    Callie's Customs IMR short-circuit tests - AW IMR

    As I understand it, a "protected" battery that suffers and external short would not even get hot, since the IC would act like a circuit breaker, perhaps self-destructing in the process, but stopping the flow of electricity. If I'm wrong about that, I'm relatively sure I'll be corrected.

    An "unprotected" battery will have to rely on the device it's being used in, and the charger it's being charged on, to keep it from being over-charged (kept at 4.2 volts or so) or discharged below about 3 volts. The nominal voltage on these types of batteries is usually 3.7.

    ***

    In closing: variable voltage (or variable wattage) is really the only way to maximize your vape on a wide variety of attachments, especially ones with varying resistances. Ohm's Law cannot be gotten around.

    Speaking of variable wattage, I left out the Darwin, which in its own awesome way could arguably be called the most advanced (quasi-mass-production) APV on the planet. I want one bad. Select the wattage you want coil or coils to get/consume/create, and it makes it happen based on what it knows their resistance to be. It doesn't get much slicker than that. I'm looking forward to a single APV that will do both VV and VW. Please refrain from telling me that it can't be done, as I'm running out of forums.
     
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