what is the best wattage to vape?

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Caro123

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I have a bit of a question I know diddly about coils but I am curios as to why the reading on the screen would go to 2 ohms on the Istick with my nautilaus mini being fired by an eleaf 50 watt at about 9 watts seems okay juice is stuff I made myself 50 50 vg/pg and contains 1 % stevia the coil has been used probably a couple weeks or more (I forget- and other juice has gone through the tank usually 50/50 ) I think the coil started out as a 1.8
my question is the coil getting gunked up and that is why the ohms are reading higher I usually vape lower watts but bopped it up to get a little more taste
 

nyiddle

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Best wattage is usually with resistances somewhere between .15 and .25 ohm, depending on the number of coils and wire gauge. unregulated. I don't feel like opening ohmslawcalculator right now, but thats probably somewhere under 100 watts, factoring in voltage drop.

Whaaaaaa?

.15 ohms is 28A with a 4.2V (fully charged) battery. That exceeds the limits of most 18650 batteries, and for a VTC4, would be cutting it real close. I don't recommend anything that ohms that low.

.22 ohms is exactly 20A with a fully charged 18650.

I have a bit of a question I know diddly about coils but I am curios as to why the reading on the screen would go to 2 ohms on the Istick with my nautilaus mini being fired by an eleaf 50 watt at about 9 watts seems okay juice is stuff I made myself 50 50 vg/pg and contains 1 % stevia the coil has been used probably a couple weeks or more (I forget- and other juice has gone through the tank usually 50/50 ) I think the coil started out as a 1.8
my question is the coil getting gunked up and that is why the ohms are reading higher I usually vape lower watts but bopped it up to get a little more taste

Yeah that'll happen, and you're exactly right, it's just gunk and stuff affecting the coil's resistance slightly. Variances shouldn't really be more than +/- .3 ohms or so. With higher ohm coils (1.8+) the fluctuation seems to be a little higher, but still, nothing to worry about.
 
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the gunk on the coil does increase the resistance.

I've noticed this too and it appears to be quite normal. It may be a sign that you need to replace or clean your coil-head. I boil mine for about 1/2 an hour (I used to soak them in vodka, but this gave sub-optimal results). You can extend their life over several iterations this way, and the resistance reading often reverts to nominal.
 
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DaveSignal

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Whaaaaaa?

.15 ohms is 28A with a 4.2V (fully charged) battery. That exceeds the limits of most 18650 batteries, and for a VTC4, would be cutting it real close.

Oko9qot.jpg
 

Robert Cromwell

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Only problem with parallel boxes is that if you lose connection to a battery while vaping you may suddenly go over your max current for the remaining battery. Not as much of an issue on a 3 battery one but could be an issue on a 2 battery one. Not much of an issue for those careful ones of us would would keep an eye on things but many just go with it till it quits. Kinda like my wife with a car.
 
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eLefAdEr

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There is no "best" wattage.

My Rose v2 @ 1.2Ω is running beautifully at 8 watts on my Kbox.

My Veritas @ 0.47Ω with any of my mechs at an average of 30 watts (depending on 18650 battery voltage) is delightful.

IMO, coil build/type and wicking are bigger contributors to an enjoyable vape over power.
 

Ryedan

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Wattage really doesn't mean anything without the other factors taken into consideration. Wattage is not heat, it's electricity. A better question would be "what temperature is the best to vape?" -- and even then there's still a range of answers depending on personal preference (although for temperature there is a definitive "don't go higher than this").

1 watt = 1 joule per second (this is power).
1 joule is a quantity of energy.

The way I understand it with regard to vaping (heating liquid), watts = an amount of heat per second (not temperature).

If we apply 1 watt to a wire that has a surface area of 1 square mm we have a watt density of 1 watt per square mm. This concept is known as heat flux. If we submerge the wire in juice that heats up, boils and takes the heat away with it the wire will reach a stable temperature and there will be X amount of vapor produced.

If we double the watts and thus the heat flux to 2, assuming enough air flow and wicking speed is available for the higher power, there will be an increase in wire temperature but the majority of the extra heat will be used up by the juice vaporizing faster.

Once the wire becomes dry its temperature skyrockets because there is no juice vaporizing and taking the heat away.

So, if we're talking about wire temperatures heat flux is in my opinion the most critical single factor.

OTOH, neither watts, heat flux, heat capacity, wire gauge, resistance, air flow or atty design taken on their own defines the vape, though all of these are limiting factors. For example, you can't use 20 gauge wire in a high air flow atty at 6 watts. They all work together and need to be appropriate or the vape will not be the best it can be.
 
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nyiddle

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OTOH, neither watts, heat flux, heat capacity, wire gauge, resistance, air flow or atty design taken on their own defines the vape, though all of these are limiting factors. For example, you can't use 20 gauge wire in a high air flow atty at 6 watts. They all work together and need to be appropriate or the vape will not be the best it can be.

That was the underlying point I was trying to make. There's no one wattage, no one wire gauge, no one resistance, etc., it's gonna be different for different applications, not even including the matter of personal preference.
 
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Ryedan

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That was the underlying point I was trying to make. There's no one wattage, no one wire gauge, no one resistance, etc., it's gonna be different for different applications, not even including the matter of personal preference.

I couldn't agree more nyiddle :)
 
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