what mec mod
- Thread starter big red chuker
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'm partial to SMPL mods...clean, basic, small, hit hard...just some added safety precautions when using one of them to be sure about, I also like my Praxis mod too...same kinda safety concerns as the SMPL tho
What exactly are you wanting from a mech mod? Just something easy to learn the basics on, or do you have any specific needs?
Also what form factor are you looking for? Tube or box?
Also what form factor are you looking for? Tube or box?
With no built-in safety features like a regulated mod has, I would thing safety would be of priority when choosing my first mech.
Most mechanical tube mods on the market today use a bottom-fire button. This feature is troublesome for me personally, as simply setting you mod down after a vape lends to a potential auto-firing of the mod. Now, some mechs have a locking ring to prevent this auto-firing from happening; but you need to set it EACH TIME you set the mod down for that safety feature to be effective. How many people actually do that?
An auto-firing mod causes the battery to rapidly over-discharge, sending said battery into thermal runaway. Hot venting gas looks for someplace to escape; if the mod doesn't have adequate venting, the mod itself becomes a pipe bomb.
What's left of a vented battery and exploding mechanical mod
To me, if you're going to get a mechanical mod, choose one with a recessed side fire button to prevent any autofiring.
AltSmoke Silver Bullet
Most mechanical tube mods on the market today use a bottom-fire button. This feature is troublesome for me personally, as simply setting you mod down after a vape lends to a potential auto-firing of the mod. Now, some mechs have a locking ring to prevent this auto-firing from happening; but you need to set it EACH TIME you set the mod down for that safety feature to be effective. How many people actually do that?
An auto-firing mod causes the battery to rapidly over-discharge, sending said battery into thermal runaway. Hot venting gas looks for someplace to escape; if the mod doesn't have adequate venting, the mod itself becomes a pipe bomb.
What's left of a vented battery and exploding mechanical mod
To me, if you're going to get a mechanical mod, choose one with a recessed side fire button to prevent any autofiring.
AltSmoke Silver Bullet
Last edited:
Possibilities with mech mods:
1: modularity: ability to swap around between topcaps/bottomcaps, switches.
2: topswitch (very rare) or bottom switch.
3: magnetic switch
4: kick tube; kick.
5: bottom spring: topswitched mechs usually have a bottom switch like a flashlight but most bottomswitched mech would not; but one of my chiyou bottom caps has a springy contact button
6: adjustable centerpin: most mechs come with adjustable centerpin, and any mech which does not have that or equivalent I would consider not worth having. I've got 1 mod- an m16 sentinel that actually has a spring loaded centerpin, which is convenient for new users.
7: copper mechs, lowvoltagedrop mech; not something I know much about, but its a possibility.
8: "hybrid-look" mechs: no centerpin, and instead rely on the user to use a tank with a 510 connector that has a protruding centerpin.
9: box mechs, using 2 batteries in parallel.
Unfortunately there are not many thread adapters for matching between different threadings on mods; if there were, there might be more true hybrid setups.
1: modularity: ability to swap around between topcaps/bottomcaps, switches.
2: topswitch (very rare) or bottom switch.
3: magnetic switch
4: kick tube; kick.
5: bottom spring: topswitched mechs usually have a bottom switch like a flashlight but most bottomswitched mech would not; but one of my chiyou bottom caps has a springy contact button
6: adjustable centerpin: most mechs come with adjustable centerpin, and any mech which does not have that or equivalent I would consider not worth having. I've got 1 mod- an m16 sentinel that actually has a spring loaded centerpin, which is convenient for new users.
7: copper mechs, lowvoltagedrop mech; not something I know much about, but its a possibility.
8: "hybrid-look" mechs: no centerpin, and instead rely on the user to use a tank with a 510 connector that has a protruding centerpin.
9: box mechs, using 2 batteries in parallel.
Unfortunately there are not many thread adapters for matching between different threadings on mods; if there were, there might be more true hybrid setups.
I'm not sure which I should get. Seems box with two batteries would be so
Safer. I'm wanting to do comps and I keep hearing that you can't use regulated devices.
Safer. I'm wanting to do comps and I keep hearing that you can't use regulated devices.
Most comps I've seen require an 18650 single battery tube mech.
What's your budget? I personally like the SXK Stingray X a lot. Please educate yourself before using the hybrid connector. It comes with a regular top cap, too. I like that its small, hits hard with low voltage drop, doesn't have as much copper maintenance because its wrapped in SS, has a magnetic switch, good venting.
What's your budget? I personally like the SXK Stingray X a lot. Please educate yourself before using the hybrid connector. It comes with a regular top cap, too. I like that its small, hits hard with low voltage drop, doesn't have as much copper maintenance because its wrapped in SS, has a magnetic switch, good venting.
with the dual parallel batt mech mod, you only have to make a mistake once on a Friday night after a couple beers to get an instant closed circuit when you put the batteries in the wrong way.
and what's a comp?
I tend to tell people who are looking for their first mechanical to get a telescoping mod (Magneto, Chronus, K100, etc.) They're super easy to use, no battery rattle, no minor adjustments to the center pin to get everything to sit all flushy-flushy. However times have changed since I first started on mechanicals, and I can't really speak on "Cloud-Comp Mods."
Either way, be safe, make sure you read up on battery safety, and don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions.
Either way, be safe, make sure you read up on battery safety, and don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions.
If you're wanting to do competitions then you'll either want a dual 18650 box mod with Orbtronic SX30 batteries or a 26650 tube mod with a 50A battery. Anything less is going to put you in the danger zone if you go to .2ohm or less resistance in your coils. No one will be impressed if your mod blows up in your face.
This is where I say that you really need to do your own research here. You'll need to decide if you want to try a clone or go with an authentic mod and how much money you're willing to spend. There may be some hardcore subohmers in the General Vaping Discussion board here that can help you, but the list of mods is pretty short for what you're wanting to do and what you need to do it safely. I would ask there if you're wanting advice on a specific mod to use.
I do the same. Telescoping mods are easy because you just put everything in its place and screw them tight. I have a buddy who's new to mechs and he got a Nemesis clone and was constantly having issues with it because he doesn't know what he's doing. I gave him a Fasttech Sentinel and a few extra VCT4s and he hasn't touched the Nemesis since.
I love telescoping mods myself. Nice if you want to switch battery size on the fly too.
Last edited:
With a hybrid cap, the atomizer pin directly touches the battery, so if the center pin in your atomizer isn't extended, it will short and you'll be in a very dangerous situation.
I'll throw this in there, many atomizers are advertised as having an adjustable pin, but be weary of that. I would unscrew the pin and extend it out, only to have it screwed back in as I was screwing on the switch on my SMPL mod. Just to play it save the only atties I use on that one have an extended center pin even fully tightened.
A true hybrid atty on the other hand, has no 510 connector, and screws directly into the tube's threading...like the Aqua V2 or Heron.
Your atty's 510 pin is in direct contact with the battery. Therefore, the pin must protrude from the bottom of the atty or you will experience a hard short, and possible horrific consequences. Do not use a clearo on one ever like an Atlantis.
Oros mod? Supposed to have no voltage drop.
Go watch a comp, and find out what the rules are, and check out what others are using. I'm hardly the right person to advise when I don't vape below 0.4 ohm
King clone in solid copper.
One of the easiest, most reliable mods I've used.
Copper pins, recessed button, lock ring, hits like Ike turner.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10006089/1829100-king-iii-style-mechanical-mod
Slap the right atty on this and you'll throw clouds with the best of them.
One of the easiest, most reliable mods I've used.
Copper pins, recessed button, lock ring, hits like Ike turner.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10006089/1829100-king-iii-style-mechanical-mod
Slap the right atty on this and you'll throw clouds with the best of them.
- Status
Similar threads
