What ohm?

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Antwoord

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It largely depends on your battery. If it is an ego type battery you need to be at 1.7ohms or higher to avoid killing your battery/components inside the ego. If it is an Provai type mod they allow you to go down to 1.0 ohms. The lower the ohms the more current is pulled from your battery meaning you will change batteries more frequently.

As you seem to be new to Ohms law I would suggest that you try to make your coils between 1.7 and 2.5 ohms. Adjust your voltage to taste. Do not try anything below 1 ohm. It is dangerous unless you really know what you are doing. It is also impractical as it drains your batteries quickly, and shortens their overall lifespan.
 

Credo

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I'm confused about which ohm levels I want to use for my dripping atomizer...can someone please explain ohms?thanks

What type of battery/PV will you be using?

Do you prefer a 'short, fast, easy' draw or a 'long, slow, tight' draw?

If you have a smaller battery type, 2.5 Ohms is a good place to start.

If you want a shorter/hotter draw drop to lower resistances. With smaller batteries, it's probably best to stick with 2 Ohms and above.

If you find yourself sensitive to heat, and/or prefer a long, slow, tight draw, you might prefer a 3 Ohm atty.

In short, lower resistances leads to warmer vape. Lower resistance also pulls more current (amps) from a battery. It's important to choose or build atomizers that draw a current that is safe for your battery type/size.

The most important thing about a good vaping atty is getting a balance between the wicking, heat, and air flow. The rest is more fine-tuning very nit-picky preferences and tastes, of which you'll only be able to acquire through personal experience and experimentation.
 
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Krazirob

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I change around from mod to mod like I have a spinner, 2egos, and a MVP itaste. I'm trying to decide what ohms to buy for dripping . What's the difference between 2.0 and 2.5 ohm for example...thanks for your insight and help :2cool:

im glad i scrolled down and read before i posted........egos and spinner are really MODS......cant go to low on ohms on those.....but you could do a 1.5 ohm on those with your RDA and you should be good.......
 

Krazirob

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electricity flows from positive to negative and electrons flow from negative to positive........this video threw me a curve ball cause i always read diagrams in relation to electricity flow and not electrons.....LOL......if you put your resistor on the negative side of what your trying to resist it won't work because of electricity flow.....
 
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tj99959

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    I like to think in terms of "sweet spot", or that optimum wattage that I like to vape at. Through trial & error I determined that I like to vape at 7.5-8 watts. Using that one factor as my "constant" I can then use a simple little Ohm's Law Calculator to tell me what resistance will best match up with the voltage of my PV.

    There I just took all the work & guessing out of it for you.

    Just punch in the resistance of what you are using now, along with the voltage that you are using it at, and you will have a rough idea of where your "sweet spot' is.
     
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    DKP#

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    I change around from mod to mod like I have a spinner, 2egos, and a MVP itaste. I'm trying to decide what ohms to buy for dripping . What's the difference between 2.0 and 2.5 ohm for example...thanks for your insight and help :2cool:

    Volts is electrical pressure, similar to water pressure
    Amps is electrical flow. An actual number of electrons per second (current)(I)
    Ohms is opposition to flow (Resistance)
    Watts = general indication of heat (Power)

    Ohms law is the relationship between these
    It can be rearranged many ways, but it's just there 2 formulas that can be rearranged to solve all 4 from 2 known
    V = I*R
    P = I*E

    If you're using 3.7 Volts
    @2.5 ohms
    Current = V/R = 3.7/2.5 = 1.48 Amps
    Power = V*I = 1.48*3.7 = 5.48 watts

    @2.0 ohms
    Current = V/R = 3.7/2.0 = 1.85 Amps
    Power = V*I = 1.85*3.7 = 6.85 watts

    -------------------------------------------
    Another approach would be:
    You know you get a burnt taste @ 8 Watts
    The spinner goes up to 4.8V (I think)
    ~you want to get a resistance that will give you 8 Watts at 4.8 volts
    I = P/V = 8/4.8 = 1.67Amps
    R = V/I = 4.8/1.67 = 2.87 ohms
    ------------------------------------------
    In simpler terms,
    more resistance = less heat
    less resistance = more heat
     

    Jonathan Tittle

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    Do you know what kind you're looking to buy?

    I generally stick with 1.5-1.8 ohm's @ 10-11 watts regardless of whether I'm dripping or using a Protank, RSST etc. This just seems to be best for me as I don't like the slow heating process of higher ohm coils.

    The higher the ohms, the slower the coils will heat up; the lower the ohms, the faster the coils will heat up. If you're going to be using the MVP or MVP 2, personally, I'd stick with ~1.5 ohms. If you're going to be using the eGO batteries, perhaps 1.8-2.0 ohms would be best due to the smaller battery.

    The lowest you'll be able to go with what you have is 1.3 ohms, due to limitations of regulation (any lower and you'd need a Provari or a mech, but that's a whole new ballgame and brings in more to consider, such as battery, amps, amp rating etc).

    Pre-made just some 510 attys
     

    Credo

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    I change around from mod to mod like I have a spinner, 2egos, and a MVP itaste. I'm trying to decide what ohms to buy for dripping . What's the difference between 2.0 and 2.5 ohm for example...thanks for your insight and help :2cool:

    Given that most of the devices you've told us about are variable...either will be good :)

    A bigger decision will be whether to go for something with a bridge in it or not.

    What is a bridge?
    A little plate with some mesh wrapped around it, and maybe some extra wicking inside.

    Pros of having a bridge...
    It'll hold several drops of liquid and let you vape longer before dripping again.
    You can pop on a cartridge that can hold a few more drops of liquid (results may vary...usually more trouble than it's worth).

    Cons of having a bridge...
    Atty might gum up faster...
    A little extra patience required to prime it and maintain the flow/wicking.
    Not as seamless of a transition when swapping flavors.
    More difficult to inspect/clean

    Pros...an atty with no bridge...
    You can see right to the coils.
    Easy to prime and start using.
    Simple to clean and start on a new flavor (just shake it a bit and move on).

    Cons on bridgeless...
    Only holds a few drops
    Maybe easier to flood...
    Possible sputtering of juice into mouth (a good drip tip can fix that).
    Carts not possible.

    Next is what platform you want...........
    306 types are pretty cool in that when you pull off the drip tip...the atty is more exposed.
    The catch is..they're pretty small and don't hold much liquid.
    They can be a bit picky on the drip tip...you'll need a special 306 drip tip...
    Slightly more prone to leaks and spills when taking them apart...dropping...etc.

    Regular 510
    These give you a nice wall around the atty. They'll hold a little more liquid in a go. Otherwise it's usually a very similar atty to the 306.

    901
    These have a more airy quality to them (easy loose draw). The flavor comes through due to the way the air hole is set up.
    You'll need an 510>901/808 adaptor to use them.
    They don't like but a few drops of liquid at a time...and can leak right out the air hole.
    A good drip shield makes these an interesting and leak free vape....worth the trouble? Sometimes :)
    The flavor is very good, and if you like a looser draw type, they're hard to beat.
    Any 510 or 901 type drip tip fits.

    801
    These things are really deep, have oversized coils, and can hold a lot of liquid without spitting/sputtering/flooding.

    They'll need an 801 drip tip...or you can just use the usually included whistle tip..or slap in a cart (these actually vape fairly nice from a cart...)

    Most if not all will have a bridge inside. (You can rip the bridge out...but in the case of 801, I think the bridge makes it better)

    Due to the depth and large diameter...they can make a really delightful and fluffy vapor, but despite having a fairly tight draw, it also tends to be a cooler and far more airy sensation than the smaller platforms (510, 306, 901).
    You'll need a 510>801 adapter

    If you can still find them...the old Joytech 'mega' 510 atties designed for the EGO were nice (but kind of expensive). Their extra diameter and deep well gave a vape kind of similar to an 801 or LEO atty...but with 510 threads and the ego type beauty lip.

    Out of all the atties I've tried over the years...the only ones that actually worked well with a 'cartridge' right out of the box were the 801 type, and the large/untapered mega 510.

    Custom Hybrids....
    It's possible to find hybrid stuff out there that mixes and matches the best and worst of the platforms.
    I.E. An 801 atty with 510 threads.
    I've heard of these as the 357 before. In short...you design your own and have it built.
    http://www.avidvaper.com/hh-357-cisco-spec-hybrid-atomizers/
    Sometimes you can find various configurations in stock somewhere.
    http://ikenvape.com/Atomizers/


    I'll see if I can add in some hyper links with the chatter above, but meanwhile...I hope this helps a bit.
     
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