What would happen if I flipped the o-ring thingy upside down on my dual coil in my Aerotank?

[ashabrown]

I cant take the leaking. Ive tried everything, including reading all the threads from the past year on here regarding leaking issues in the aerotanks! It all in the base area, and luckily it hasn't gotten bad enough to flood through the airholes, but that's probably because I am paranoid and keep opening it up and cleaning all the leaked crap out every few hours.

I've seen videos about doubling up the o-rings on the updated versions of the DC (which I have) and when I tried that the coil and based wouldn't properly screw back in the tank.

I've tried using one of the o-rings with the rims on the side off of the older version of the kanger dual coil and substituting that instead on one of the updated (covered) DCs, and it still leaked.

I've tried using the older (uncovered) version of the dual coils and those leak a tiny bit less, but leak none the less.

I think I may try to do what I used to do with my old ARO tank when I got leaky and flip the little o-ring that's on the older (uncovered) version of the kanger DC and see if that helps...but I'm worried I may make a huge mess, I'd love to hear if anyone else has tried this method.

Help?

I'm at my wits end. I love the design of this thing, I LOVE the flavor and the vape, but I hate the mess and constant worry I am losing half my liquid in to the damn base!

Please don't suggest I start rebuilding. I don't have the time or skills to do that, but I'd happily pay someone with more talent to do it for me!

 

[pufZeppelin]

I cant take the leaking. Ive tried everything, including reading all the threads from the past year on here regarding leaking issues in the aerotanks! It all in the base area, and luckily it hasn't gotten bad enough to flood through the airholes, but that's probably because I am paranoid and keep opening it up and cleaning all the leaked crap out every few hours.
I've seen videos about doubling up the o-rings on the updated versions of the DC (which I have) and when I tried that the coil and based wouldn't properly screw back in the tank.
I've tried using one of the o-rings with the rims on the side off of the older version of the kanger dual coil and substituting that instead on one of the updated (covered) DCs, and it still leaked.
I've tried using the older (uncovered) version of the dual coils and those leak a tiny bit less, but leak none the less.
I think I may try to do what I used to do with my old ARO tank when I got leaky and flip the little o-ring that's on the older (uncovered) version of the kanger DC and see if that helps...but I'm worried I may make a huge mess, I'd love to hear if anyone else has tried this method.

Help?

I'm at my wits end. I love the design of this thing, I LOVE the flavor and the vape, but I hate the mess and constant worry I am losing half my liquid in to the damn base!

Please don't suggest I start rebuilding. I don't have the time or skills to do that, but I'd happily pay someone with more talent to do it for me!

have you been thru SEVERAL coils, and it still leaks ??

assemble the tank (as you would normal)
but DON’T put the base on;
hold a finger over the open bottom and suck on mouthpiece
can you create a suction ?? (vacuum)
the tank has to be able to seal to not leak (allows fluid to flow out freely)

be sure tank glass, o-rings are in good shape (and there)
DON’T overtighten ! (let the o-rings do their job sealing)

think of the straw in a soda
hold your finger over the end of straw, lift it out with a column of soda in straw
if straw has a crack in it, no column inside (not maintaining a simple vacuum)
OK, tank checks out

•only way the juice can get out of the tank is “THRU” the coil
•or “AROUND” the coil (coil bottom o-ring)

Kanger designed the tank geometry so as a constant,
ADDing an o-ring to the mouthpiece/airtube disrupts design...

if juice is sneaking out THRU coil wicking, it must be repaired
add more cotton to stop the free flow of juice leaving the tank thru the base…

if juice is escaping around the bottom o-ring of the coil, repairs are needed
either the ‘base’ seat is faulty, or o-ring is faulty


basic deduction, if the tank isn’t leaking, the coil is

maybe if you’re at wits end, try another style kanger dual coil…
- Kanger Dual Coils - Kanger Coils - Kangertech - Clearomizers Tanks


- http://fumodirect.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Aerotank-Clearomizer.jpg
- http://cdn3.volusion.com/pnhwe.bmygz/v/vspfiles/photos/KRAET-Kv2-6.jpg?1401957808

 

[Nermal]

Not sure on the Aerotank, but that trick often works on Kanger's T3s. I would definitely try it before retiring the device.

 

[ashabrown]

pufZeppelin THANK YOU. Everything you wrote makes sense. I HAVE been through several coils...and since I read all these threads about how to deal with leaks ive been careful not to over-tighten...so I think I could indeed have a faulty base, which sucks because I only bought this tank a little over a month ago!

 

[pufZeppelin]

pufZeppelin THANK YOU. Everything you wrote makes sense.
I HAVE been through several coils...and since I read all these threads about how to deal with leaks ive been careful not to over-tighten...
so I think I could indeed have a faulty base, which sucks because I only bought this tank a little over a month ago!

did your tank ever NOT LEAK (when you first got it ?)
or has it leaked from the start ?


only thing that needs to be TIGHT, is the coil into the base

it could be, but I doubt base is at fault
inspect the seating surface very close and see if there is a flaw or a nick in it

best guess - thinking juice is escaping thru the coil (poor wicks)
OR , your tank is not air-tight

ALWAYS lube, wet the seal areas with juice (never a dry fitting)
I use/have a Q-tip I keep wet with juice and run it around ALL joining surfaces

• glass tank edge
• tank o-rings
• tank threads
• coil o-ring
• coil threads
• coil top to air tube bottom, silicone seal
• base threads into tank

 

[ashabrown]

it has leaked from the very beginning, yes. I have used 5 coils so far on it: 3 of the covered updated dual coils, and two of the older version of the dual coils (uncovered kind). I will try lubing all the sealed areas with a Q-tip.good tip.

After inspection, the base o-ring and threads dont appear to have any nicks or damage....

 

[pufZeppelin]

it has leaked from the very beginning, yes. I have used 5 coils so far on it: 3 of the covered updated dual coils, and two of the older version of the dual coils (uncovered kind). I will try lubing all the sealed areas with a Q-tip.good tip.

After inspection, the base o-ring and threads dont appear to have any nicks or damage....

hmmmmm interesting . . .

so is tank air-tight ?
can yoou draw a vacuum on it ?

OK, so you have both 'open' & 'enclosed' coils

so not to confuse...
base in hand
no coil installed
looking straight down onto area
where the coil o-ring seals (seat)
this area looks unflawed ?
no chips,nicks,old glue,machined bad

look at yours, then maybe some pics of others

leaking from the start concerns me
which 'base' do you have (v1, v2, v3)

I'm still thinking bad coil allowing juice to escape
thats turns out to be cause, like 90% of the time...

 

[ashabrown]

Thats a good question on if the tank is air tight...how does one "draw a vacuum" on it?

I carefully followed your advice about lubing the spots you listed and am currently vaping it. I'll open this sucker up in a few hours to see if that helped in any way and will report back with my results!

When I have inspected the base, without the coil in it, it seems to be in perfect condition; nothing out of the ordinary at all. I have the version 3 base.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to me, and to share all of this information and advice, I am extremely grateful!!!

 

[pufZeppelin]

Thats a good question on if the tank is air tight... how does one "draw a vacuum" on it?
I carefully followed your advice about lubing the spots you listed and am currently vaping it.
I'll open this sucker up in a few hours to see if that helped in any way and will report back with my results!

When I have inspected the base, without the coil in it, it seems to be in perfect condition; nothing out of the ordinary at all. I have the version 3 base.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to me, and to share all of this information and advice, I am extremely grateful!!!

very glad to help, we’ll get it figured out !

like I said previous, assemble tank
leave base OFF
put a finger over hole/opening where base should be
suck on mouthpiece
you SHOULD be able to draw a vacuum on your finger
that is plugging the open hole…

if not, that IS the problem
if tank won’t seal (a simple vacuum)
then juice will free-flow out
(like the straw in a soda)


I figured your base was machined proper

 

[ashabrown]

Ok so your advice on lubing those areas before putting it all back together helped a little! I had about 50% less lost juice hanging around the base once I opened it up after a few hours. Not a complete fix, but its progress!

I also checked to see if I could get a vacuum effect, and I can...

so I guess that means I got a ....ty pack of cartos on my very first order?!? Both kinds (the open and enclosed)? That seems like a mean trick from the universe.

As I inspect the o-ring on the base this afternoon again, I see that although it's intact, and the outer threads seem to be fine above it, there is a bit of a "dip" as I slowly spin it to observe it. Meaning, the o-ring seems to slope slightly in a few places. I couldn't tell if my eyes were playing tricks on me at this point, but I'm pretty sure the line of the o-ring is not completely straight as it circles around the base. Would that make a difference even if it was just a slight bit sloped in a few places?