What's a good mech mod to go with SLR coils?
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also mentioned was "quit nagging". if you feel this thread is stupid, you're more than welcome to not come back. you've already inputted your opinion and now there's no need for you to continue posting. if you feel its stupid, don't do it, its as simple as that. I'm looking for answers, not lectures... so please take your comments elsewhere.
I should have expected a little back lash from my original post but the responses are in the same ballpark as the OP's post!!!
I stand corrected and believe me I wasn't laughing for very long... I did have my calculations on part of the equation wrong.... Forgot to divide and multiplied, but yes I did include in my original post a .3Ω coil will push on a freshly charged battery...14amps.... I even pointed out that someone might be pushing the limit at .5Ω in my original post and never said you couldn't or shouldn't vape a .6Ω coil at all. I have read of multiple people that have been doing such and don't have a problem with that... Do you have any studies on your Samsung batteries that prove the amp loads? Would be interested in seeing them... I'm still looking for the MNKE's to this point... Any MFG can list a number in the specs for anything, but they should also post a study of said numbers and haven't seen any so far... I'm not at all saying they aren't good batteries, just looking for the proof to back it up...
I do however have a problem with people trying to push the envelope on something that could screw up the future of vaping for me and others that enjoy it... I'm glad that you are aware of and understand the risks that are involved with doing something like this... I will add that all it will take is one idiotic mistake from someone trying and failing this to give the FDA all the firepower it needs to gain regulation of this industry... It's already bad enough the idiot from the last fiasco thought he did his research well enough, (here's the user error part), and thought it was ok to stack batteries from Radio Shack and then blew part of his face off!!! Just saying!!! Again not knocking your vaping habits and as long as you are aware of said risks of it...
A IMR battery will not explode it will get hot and vent some gas but wont exploded, now using a li-ion un protected has the chance to explode. Also a protected li-ion could ground out on the pv wall if the plastic sleeve is showing metal in that case a hard short will still happen bypass the protection,and probally mean a trip to hospital.CloudZ:9092257 said:
Me and the guys at work purposly hard shorted a AW IMR all it did was get hot and vented some gas under the button top.
I killed all my efest and AW batteries with SLR gennys. These samsung INR18650-13R have been going strong and i cant tell a difference other than price to the mnke 20amp battery. I also have been using some 18amp samsungs for about three months and they handle the load great also.
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Sure did...
You have to look into a springless setup I guess, or some mod that doesn't use the spring as a safety "feature".
most high end mech mods should handle the SLR coils well. I would reccomend looking in the classifieds for a used precise plus the dual grounding button is sweet and in the chance you melt a spring tou can get a replacement easy. If your looking at getting a highend mech the precise ela is up for preorder same thing as a precise + just telescoping and a new one can be had faster than a new precise+guppy:9092294 said:
@guppy....it is very easy to get a mod to work with super low ohm coils....Just make sure there are no springs in the unit as a contact point. Also if button uses magnets instead of spring it would be better. I have never set up a 0.3ohm coil but....I would think the Natural should be able to handle it. It does have spring in the button but it is not a contact point so it should never get hot enough to pop. Here is place that has some good mods....expensive shipping though.
Full Mech - Mod Kits - MODS & Batteries
Please use MNKE 18650 batteries (20amps) or Samsung INR 15Q (18 amps) IMR batteries.
Full Mech - Mod Kits - MODS & Batteries
Please use MNKE 18650 batteries (20amps) or Samsung INR 15Q (18 amps) IMR batteries.
There's probably not an inexpensive mod that'll do what you're asking of it. It'll probably have to have solid contacts top & bottom as well as a fairly 'substantial' switch. The EA might do it for you. I'm sure there are others that fit the bill, but they'll be even more expensive.
Duh, P+, I have one in my hand right now!
Yup a Super T would do the job great I'm sure.
I will definetly look into the sup T. I was looking into a poldiac but I read there's also a spring in that as well so I'm still looking.
If you have your heart set on a Poldiac, the next version will not have a spring. I am not sure when they are coming out though. Also try to get on the list for AFPV in the coops section. It is a Hybrid but it does have a 510 connection, so it can be used as a mod. It has gold plated brass contacts and a magnetic switch....at $126 it is a hell of a deal.
Yeah.... it seems a lot of people have been added to the reserve list in the last couple of days. I was number twelve on the reserve list last week but got bumped up to the actual list this week.....so there still is a chance to get one.
Hey Guppy...check around the local shops for an Nzonic...they have a magnetic switch, no springs. I've run a 0.3 ohm setup on my Mortar and didn't have any problems...it has a spring on the bottom switch.
Are you double checking the lead/internal resistance of the meter you're using? 0.3 ohms is pretty common for internal resistance of a meter. If you're not taking this into account, then you could be dead shorting, which would cause your problem.
For example, if you touch your meter leads together and come up with 0.3 ohms, and you meter your atomizer you should come up with 0.6 ohms. If it reads 0.3 ohms then it's a dead short.
You probably already know this, just putting it out there just in case and for anyone who comes across this in the future. Personally I think you're insane for running 0.3 ohms (I run 0.8-0.9 typically), but different strokes for different folks.
For example, if you touch your meter leads together and come up with 0.3 ohms, and you meter your atomizer you should come up with 0.6 ohms. If it reads 0.3 ohms then it's a dead short.
You probably already know this, just putting it out there just in case and for anyone who comes across this in the future. Personally I think you're insane for running 0.3 ohms (I run 0.8-0.9 typically), but different strokes for different folks.
people want too much for the nzonic... great mod but resale is crazy! that's actually the mod that I've tried that works perfect with SLR. got any decent mods that'll run the SLR for sale??? lol
If I were to run that type of set up, which I don't, I'd get a Natural. It has no springs at the contact points. There is a spring in the switch, and one below the bottom connection pin, but they aren't direct contacts. I'd just sand the chrome plating off all the contact points.
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