Whats the trick with the silicone washer.

[Snipper]

Ok soldering god modders please help a newbie modder.

When assembling back together a battery connector.
What is the trick with the silicone washer?

After taking one out to solder wires onto a battery connector so I wouldn't damage it, what is the trick to getting it back in without ending up throwing it across the room?

I've tried putting it in first to the outer (negative) part, then pushing the inner (positive) part in and it then pushes itself out the back.
Then I tried putting it on the inner positive part and pushed it into the outer (negative) part and it squishes up and eventually breaks.
Also anyone know where I can buy these things as spares?
Much obliged for any help anyone can offer.

 

[boxhead]

have you tried e-liquid as a lube to reassemble, and spares maybe madvapers?....

 

[Switched]

Ok soldering god modders please help a newbie modder.

When assembling back together a battery connector.
What is the trick with the silicone washer?

After taking one out to solder wires onto a battery connector so I wouldn't damage it, what is the trick to getting it back in without ending up throwing it across the room?

I've tried putting it in first to the outer (negative) part, then pushing the inner (positive) part in and it then pushes itself out the back.
Then I tried putting it on the inner positive part and pushed it into the outer (negative) part and it squishes up and eventually breaks.
Also anyone know where I can buy these things as spares?
Much obliged for any help anyone can offer.

Afix it to the positive terminal, then a little dab of vaseline or die-electric grease on the the edge and woila! You will still have all your hair. Use a pencil to push the post until seated properly. Everything goes in better with lube

 

[Snipper]

Afix it to the positive terminal, then a little dab of vaseline or die-electric grease on the the edge and woila! You will still have all your hair. Use a pencil to push the post until seated properly. Everything goes in better with lube

Thanks guys, duh that makes perfect sense 'some lube'
"Everything goes in better with lube"
Or as the other guy said dab it in some eliquid first...now the search starts to grab some spare silicone washers.

 

[Dudeman]

Save all your dead atty's!!! They have the same insulator. Good things to have if you end up ripping one trying to get it back together.

 

[nicotime]

I always deburr (round off) the hole to prevent cutting the grommet first...then put it in the hole with pointed tweezers. Then I lube the center contact with PG or VG and press it in. Make sure you keep it straight on.

If you need a replacement grommet what I have done several times is drill the hole out to about .020" under the size of the contacts head, then use about a half inch of silicone tubing from a hobby shop for R/C fuel lines. Lube and run it up the center contact until it starts to flare over the head, lube the outside of the tubing and press it in the hole, trim any tubing with an exacto knife that may be in the way of the contact head..its a little more effort but works perfect. I have used a couple layers of shrink tube also but the silicone has a better cushion effect. Never over-tighten your attys either.

If you need more help I could do a video for you and others if you want.

 

[Snipper]

Thanks everyone, I got some great tips here (now where did I put that dead atomizer so I can pull the silicone washer out of it

 

[Snipper]

I always deburr (round off) the hole to prevent cutting the grommet first...then put it in the hole with pointed tweezers. Then I lube the center contact with PG or VG and press it in. Make sure you keep it straight on.

If you need a replacement grommet what I have done several times is drill the hole out to about .020" under the size of the contacts head, then use about a half inch of silicone tubing from a hobby shop for R/C fuel lines. Lube and run it up the center contact until it starts to flare over the head, lube the outside of the tubing and press it in the hole, trim any tubing with an exacto knife that may be in the way of the contact head..its a little more effort but works perfect. I have used a couple layers of shrink tube also but the silicone has a better cushion effect. Never over-tighten your attys either.

If you need more help I could do a video for you and others if you want.

No thats fine by me (unless others need a video?)
I can see in my head exactly what you have done with the fuel line and great idea too.

 

[40bikes]

Snipper, don't ignore kr8 cartos as an insulator source. If you take one out of service or bum a bad one from a buddy, remove the packing and coil take a punch or small nail and put it in the stripped carto head first and push the center post out the bottom: now you have a grommet and positive post for a mod. As a side note, since I don't throw anything away, I'm using the completely stripped carto as a dripper tip for a 4081 model e-cig. battery side connector up bikes

 

[Majestic]

Snipper, the last couple of mods I built, I left the positive batt terminal in place when soldering with no ill effects. The silicone can take the heat as long as you don't over do it.

 

[FlyerTom]

Snipper, the last couple of mods I built, I left the positive batt terminal in place when soldering with no ill effects. The silicone can take the heat as long as you don't over do it.

Same here, only because I wasn't aware that you HAD to disassemble it. My mods have worked fine nonetheless.

Ignorance is bliss, ain't it?

 

[Snipper]

Maybe it was the one I melted with the Soldering Iron that made me remove it from then on...lol

I think it relates to my poor soldering techniques more so then the strength of the silicone washer

Same here, only because I wasn't aware that you HAD to disassemble it. My mods have worked fine nonetheless.

Ignorance is bliss, ain't it?

 

[Majestic]

Maybe it was the one I melted with the Soldering Iron that made me remove it from then on...lol

I think it relates to my poor soldering techniques more so then the strength of the silicone washer

The brass conducts heat relatively fast so it doesn't take much pre-heating to get the solder flowing. I also use a 15w iron which helps eliminate over heating.

 

[FlyerTom]

As Majestic stated, I also use a 15W iron to reduce collateral damage. Perhaps you're unaware of a tip to quickly solder a connection that doesn't have a means to capture the wire - hole, tab, etc.:
Pre-tin the end of the wire - flow some solder onto the stripped end, and set up your third hand crocodile clips to hold the wire and batt connector together. All you gotta do then is touch the iron to the center post for a couple of seconds to get the solder on the wire to adhere to the post, and you're done with no silicone-cookin'.

 

[Snipper]

Thanks guys for allt he tips, I will master it...I also think my soldering iron is higher then 15w, I will check that out as well.

Cheers

 

[hova]

i use chapstik original...its what i use on car seals, very handy...just mark the one u use for radiator hoses....antifreeze is not good chapstick flavoring...


-0hov

 

[Rocketman]

There is one type of adapter that has a two piece center post. It screws apart. This would allow you to take it out, remove the insulators and solder it.