The coveted V1 Lavatube made by L-Rider - $20 (I still have one untouched and sealed)
That was my very first ever VV mod, January 2012. Eric from Discount Vapers recommended it.
The proverbial seal was officially broken.


The coveted V1 Lavatube made by L-Rider - $20 (I still have one untouched and sealed)
I got a lot of pushback in the original thread though. Nobody wanted to believe that I found the real McCoy since it was 10x's cheaper than the Volcano mod.That was my very first ever VV mod, January 2012. Eric from Discount Vapers recommended it.
The proverbial seal was officially broken.![]()
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I got a lot of pushback in the original thread though. Nobody wanted to believe that I found the real McCoy since it was 10x's cheaper than the Volcano mod.
That's why I offered multiple rounds, not only for the disbelievers but I also had to put limits on how many could be ordered by each person otherwise I'd have been buried alive in them!
The first coop was right around Christmas time in 2012 ... yeah that was fun.
It was also one of the only coops where the mod itself was packaged loosely, so that made it convenient for me to test each and everyone of them for functionality. Didn't want anybody getting a dud so I made sure that all of them functioned properly.
I don't remember if I did 2 or 3 rounds, but I sure was happy when I finished running those.
Looking back on it, especially inspecting one for the very first time in my hand, my first thought was ... I can't believe Volcano was charging peeps $200 freakin dollars for one of these things. This thing is a cheap piece of crap, but it worked flawlessly and was well-worth $20 at the time.
3.0 - 6.0 volts if I remember right?
I am currently using a Geek Vape Aegis Legend 2 L200. I switched my tank to a nano so that I could use lower watt coils. I use 40mg to 60mg salt nic juice and I prefer to keep my watts between 18 and 23. I previously used a Hero 2 with the large screen but I dropped it at the bar and the battery lid wouldn't stay closed which prevented it turning on without holding it shut. I am looking for advice on the best mod for the highest accuracy possible with Bluetooth controls. I want to program my vape with my phone or PC. I like to experiment with new attachments with quartz or ceramic heaters and glass buckets or pans. It interests me that we can invent anything and plug it into our vape mods and have complete control of the current.What kind of mod are you currently using?
What kind of tank (drop-in coils) or RBA do you use?
What kind of vaper are you? Low wattage MTL, restricted DL or high wattage DL?
Your power requirement matters.
From the many setups you've seen on ECF, which ones do you like?
Do you want a mod with an internal or external battery?
I prefer and recommend mods that use external batteries.
A single 18650 or 21700 mod?
Dual battery mod?
Do you squonk? If not are you interested in squonking?
Basically, we need more info.
I have a very large stash of favorite mods, a list of my favorites would be quite long.![]()
Same here – I did my stocking up as well. I'm older and happy with the lower power of older vaping equipment. I also DIY and am stashed sufficiently. My only problem are RBAs as I'm losing my eyesight.I'm one of the old-timers that started prepping for the end times, so my gear is pre-2018 and I'm hoping the stash will outlive me. If you haven't stocked your own supply of nic base, you might want to consider that as well.
I meant to mention that it was asking me that everytime I unlocked it. Not just when I changed the tank/atomizer. Not sure if it's supposed to do that. I'm still trying to pick a new DNA mod. A good 2x 18650 or 21700 x2.Yes. It started asking me if my coil is old or new after I started switching my tank multiple times a day. Also I may have over heated it a few times. It's just best to say yes do that it will detect ohms again.
message appear asking you if its a "new coil?"
It will do that when it detects a change in a coil's resistance. If it happens when you haven't just attached a tank, it may be that the coil's resistance is jumping. For a stock coil, you might just need to tighten it or seat it a little better. Or it might be time to swap it. It may also be that there's residue or something at the 510. It's a good idea to clean the pin on the tank and the connector on the mod. A bit of alcohol on a cotton swab or paper towel is usually enough to do it. Also, make sure the tank is attached good 'n' snug. "Snug" -- not loose & not overly tightened -- is how tanks on mods & coils in tanks should be. Worst case: Internal circuitry problem.It started asking me if my coil is old or new