When I should replace coil in an RDA or RTA?

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PeterKay

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Hi folks, a very basic question- how do you know when to change the coil? I've only started using rebuidables 3 months ago, I'm beginning to wonder whether I shoud change my coils, they seem to work fine but I've no experience. Every time i rewick I first wash the coil to remove most of the gunk, then dry burn, then wash again to remove the burned stuff. I use wire brush the second time I wash.
 

PeterKay

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I noticed there is some residue left after dry burning when i brush that comes off as black powder, thats why I always wash to remove as much as i can. Also more of that dry burned stuff if I don't wash the coil prior to dry burning. Maybe I overdo it slightly but the coil always comes out pretty clean afterwards, and I rewick once a week so it's not a lot of work
 

PeterKay

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I think the old wisdom was a mild baking soda and water soak? The only other sure fire fix is designated bottles for strong mixes.

I think rubbing alcohol damages rubber and plastic but not silicon?
I'm using Eleaf pico squeeze 2, been searching forever for alternative bottles but due to the design it looks like I'll be stuck with the original bottles made for that device. The bottle is very soft- I pretty like it, if I open the bottle cover and tilt the bottle to the side where the needle touches the bottom, I can squeeze practically to the very last drop. But I guess that super soft design is the reason why it absorbs flavors so well. I need to try the baking soda soak, thanks!
 

BillW50

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Hi folks, a very basic question- how do you know when to change the coil?

When I did a lot of building with Kanthal, two problems popped up. One I was seeing reports of rusting. Some had very good pictures and it clearly looked like rust. Although what I was having a problem with was Kanthal breaking. Yes I was out somewhere and suddenly the coil just snapped in two.

I grabbed a microscope and lo and behold, dry burning and getting rid of hotspots causes Kanthal to crack. And inside of the cracks, I had seen rust forming. And after three good burns, Kanthal 28g was so brittle that it could suddenly break in half.

Other wire types like NiCr, Ni200, T1, SS, etc I haven't seen any problems whatsoever. Nor am I convinced that all Kanthal is that way, since some I don't have a problem with. And some Kanthal taste like iron to me and some doesn't.

Plus you didn't mention the wire type as that makes a difference. Some are easy to clean and some not so much. Plus you have to add the cost. If a 4 inch wire you wrap into a coil only cost 5¢, why do you bother cleaning it?
 

AngeNZ

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    Try a solution of watered down vinegar for the bottles, if you get nowhere with the baking soda.

    As for the coils - complex coils like fused claptons etc I rinse, dry burn, wire brush, rinse and rewick. Smaller coils like flat wire I do the same, but after about 20 or so dry burns, I replace them.
     

    Katya

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    Hi folks, a very basic question- how do you know when to change the coil? I've only started using rebuidables 3 months ago, I'm beginning to wonder whether I shoud change my coils, they seem to work fine but I've no experience. Every time i rewick I first wash the coil to remove most of the gunk, then dry burn, then wash again to remove the burned stuff. I use wire brush the second time I wash.

    What wire are you using? Only Kanthal, and possibly ss and NiCr, can be dry burned, gently, low wattage. Never dry burn any TC wires, especially Ti.

    Also depends on your ejuices; if you're vaping thick, sweet, heavily flavored kind or NETs, I recommend changing your coils often. I mostly vape unflavored or barely flavored, and my coils stay clean longer. Wire is cheap. When in doubt, get a new coil. :D
     

    Katya

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    When I did a lot of building with Kanthal, two problems popped up. One I was seeing reports of rusting. Some had very good pictures and it clearly looked like rust. Although what I was having a problem with was Kanthal breaking. Yes I was out somewhere and suddenly the coil just snapped in two.

    I grabbed a microscope and lo and behold, dry burning and getting rid of hotspots causes Kanthal to crack. And inside of the cracks, I had seen rust forming. And after three good burns, Kanthal 28g was so brittle that it could suddenly break in half.

    Interesting.

    New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
     
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