Which 14500s are really protected and 900mah+??? Fakes?? Flame jacket vs blue trustfires?? How to tell?

[THE]

I have

All of the batteries I have come from mad vapes and are from orders over 1yr old ...
I need a bunch of these and can't afford aw if they're 10 apiece ...

"ultra fire" Gray 3.6 14500 900mah (generally suck- not bad at first but unpredictable battery life- charge for 1hr+, then go dead in 5 minutes, some do it in 1 minute or less - some are longer than others and don't fit battery box mod)

"trust fire" Black 3.7 14500 900mah (flame jackets, red+black with with good light dispersion like cz or diamond - all fit the box mod perfectly - great luck with these)

We had a bunch of each, some of the gray ultra fire 14500s just don't work well for very long, period. Maybe because they were left sitting for so long, before use? I just generally think that they suck. I am going to dissect one tonight and I bet I will find a 300mah something


I want to buy more flame jackets but I am afraid of some older posts I read- that some are supposedly fakes? Are the fakes not as shiny, the wrappers? Are the fakes longer or are protected batts just supposed to be longer? What are key ways to tell?

If trustfires are all rewrapped something else, where can I just buy the something elses?

We use box mods from mad vapes, which if I remember correctly, the way it looks to me they are wired in "series" or "stacked", right? That worries me because someone even unwrapped fake flamejackets and found different batteries completely (very not good when in series/stacked, right?)

If I have to choose between BLUE 14500 trustfire 900mah protected and FLAME 14500 trustfire 900mah - which is the best bet?? I really want these to be safe for my sister. . . and me ..

When a battery is getting upset / unstable does it always get hot? I run mine without the cover so I would notice that in time ... .

Sorry for all of the questions.... but I am sure that many people want/need to know!

Thanks!!!!!

 

[THE]

Wow, now I see there are trustfire gray 3.7 900mah protected ... so three colors of identical rated batteries from trust fire
To confuse things even more, the trustfire 3.7 looks identical to the ultrafire 3.7

They are all just from the same manufacturer or ... no??

Who actually makes these, and who actually gets the protection circuit right for sure? Anyone know?

 

[THE]

Very very curious about these Vapage 14500 3.7V 900mAh Lithium-Ion Protected Rechargeable Battery (2-pack) | eBay Are these just rewrapped, or did they really reformulate them for a better power curve??? Hmm.

 

[atom48]

The AW IMR 14500s (600mah) are only $6.69 at Super-T Mfg. Safe-chemistry.

 

[THE]

The AW IMR 14500s (600mah) are only $6.69 at Super-T Mfg. Safe-chemistry.

That is not bad at all - though they are only 600mah, they should last longer on a charge than the "900mah" trustfires, I would imagine? And have longer life, probably.. and be safer

 

[THE]

So the AW IMR 600mah is better to use than the AW 750mah protected, because it's high drain?
Is the IMR protected, or is it just not necessary because they are "Limn"?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/126479-hi-drain-14500-a.html#post1991821

I guess the regular 14500s aren't made for the amperage draw, they only like 1.3A while these IMRs can handle up to 4A
He says an LR 1.5ohm atomizer at 3.7v draws 2.47A..... I use a regular probably 3ohm 3.7v atomizer on my 5v 2x14500 box mod, not sure what the drain actually is ...

So they are just all around better, more consistent voltage, longer battery life, longer lasting between charges, etc

I didn't quite get this " they do not have a PCB like a traditional protected Li-Ion ...but they dont need it...they DO have the other protection measures though "

 

[THE]

Happy Vaper - Canadian Quality Electronic Cigarette ECig E CIG E-CIG/Personal Vaporizers and DIY Smoke Liquid
e amperage draw is a relation between voltage/divided by resistance or I=V/R. As previously discussed, when we connect our batteries in series we effectively double our voltage while keeping the battery capacity (mAh or I) to do work the same. Once again our 14500 3.7V 900mAh battery:
This single cell is capable of doing 1.45A (900mAh/1000)*C worth of work;
should we double the voltage (3.7*2) = 7.4V
applying the formula I=V/R or (7.4/2.2) = 3.36A The workload is nearly 2.5 times greater than the carrying capacity of the “stack”, resulting in a seriously overstressed and potential catastrophic condition, especially if unprotected batteries are used.
Is there a way to use this battery pack effectively? Yes, by increasing the resistance of the atomizer used in this application.
If I=V/R then R=V/I or (7.4/1.45) = 5.13Ohm.


So .. a 5v box mod (with batteries in series to double voltage) with say a 2.7ohm atomizer should be, what, just a bit over a 3A draw? And the IMRs are rated at 4A? That means the IMRs are pretty much perfect!

How does the "3 amp 5v voltage regulator" effect all of this?

I have always wondered if the voltage regulator actually controls the draw OR just wastes a lot of energy as heat ..

 

[Switched]

I am familiar with that article since I wrote it A new day, a new way! - Vaping: Battery - FAQ

Far too many people get hung up on the overall mAh rating of a battery, it is but one part of the equation as you know, or have come to find out. I prefer to consider batteries on performance vice the mAh rating e.g what can they put out.

Considering your original experience and question, the only mfr out there that I know of for battery consistency is AW. Sorry but you get what you pay for.

IMR vs LI Ion, IMR all the way in the smaller sizes e.g 16430 and lower, this includes the 18350. Above those sizes LI Ion can handle the load and will perform for longer periods. e.g unless specified by the mfr a 2600mAh AW 18650 will outlast an AW IMR 1600mAh battery.

Wrt regulators? That question is better suited for the modders forum.

My parallel box mod utilizing 2 x Trustfire 14500s @ 900mAh for a total of 1800mAh is only slightly better with regards to battery life (mind you batts are 1.5 years old) than my IMR 14500. However, I can get a good 4 hrs of solid kick from the IMR. The box does not kick as hard although battery life is longer. Hope this helps, its a trade off really.

 

[THE]

Got some AW IMR from Super T ... they're definitely better made and more powerful ... And they last longer between charges despite the lower "mah" rating.

Oh, and, they got here in two days!

Thanks everyone!

 

[Switched]

Glad to be of service and may you enjoy

 

[sandybeach]

Waking up this question My VV mod (Vari-Cool from SmokTech) says it uses 900mah 14500 3.7v batteries. I used TrustFires and they worked fine. I tried some IMR 14500 600mah 3.7V batteries and they won't work.

Supertmanufacturing doesn't have 900mah. Will theirs work for me even if they aren't 900mah?

 

[WillyB]

Waking up this question My VV mod (Vari-Cool from SmokTech) says it uses 900mah 14500 3.7v batteries. I used TrustFires and they worked fine. I tried some IMR 14500 600mah 3.7V batteries and they won't work.

Supertmanufacturing doesn't have 900mah. Will theirs work for me even if they aren't 900mah?

First off there is no such thing as a TF or UF 900mAh 14500, they are actually about 500 - 600mAh like the IMRs.

I tried some IMR 14500 600mah 3.7V batteries and they won't work.

They are shorter and the top button may be flatter and probably not making good contact, small magnet spacers are your friend.

Most of the time it's the plastic that holds the positive terminal that keeps the cell's positive terminal from making good contact.

A small thin magnet on the positive should do the trick.

 

[Switched]

First off there is no such thing as a TF or UF 900mAh 14500, they are actually about 500 - 600mAh like the IMRs.


They are shorter and the top button may be flatter and probably not making good contact, small magnet spacers are your friend.

Most of the time it's the plastic that holds the positive terminal that keeps the cell's positive terminal from making good contact.

A small thin magnet on the positive should do the trick.

Yup! That is exactly what happened in one of the BMs I made. Metered the circuit etc... all was good wouldn't fire. Harnessed the battery outside the device, all was well (scratches head), took a while to find the culprit.

 

[Switched]

IMO folks pay to much attention to the mAh rating vice the performance of the battery. mAh rating is but one characteristics of a battery, it is the other specs that we need to be focused on for performance

I have an IMR 26650 4000mAh battery that I classified as "it bores me" (performance). OTOH the AW IMR 26500 2300mAh performs like a champ. Why? Output from the 26500 is dble that of the 26650.