Which battery

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Susan~S

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Sigelei recommends 30A batteries for use in their 150w box mod. Here are several you can choose from.

1. Orbtronic SX30 2100mah 30A
2. Sony VTC4 2100mah 30A (there are no authentic VTC5's out there)
3. Xtar 2100mah 30A (re-wrapped Sony VTC4)

Don't be fooled by any battery claiming 35A. There is no 35A CDR battery out there. Most of those batteries are 20A CDR (35A pulse).

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
 

Baditude

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Just seen these let me know if these are suitable

Sony US 18650 VTC4 2100mAh battery - Batteries & Chargers

Those would be the ideal battery for your applications (including subohm to 0.2 ohms). :thumb:

1.0 ohm coil = 4.2 amp draw from battery
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
 
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nyiddle

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Also wanted to know if they are suitable for sub ohm?

Yessir! Like Baditude said, lowest you'd wanna go is .2 or so. .3 would be a safe range where you'll never see problems with your batteries (assuming you're not over-discharging them or otherwise mistreating them).

Pull tha trigger!
 

Baditude

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So as long as I don't go below 0.2 I'm golden I gather from
That list

Most people feel safer having some headroom above that 0.2 ohm. Building right down to 0.2 ohm is putting a lot of faith into a cheap ohm reader in being accurate by 0.1 ohm. What if the post screw becomes loose and changes the resistance of the coil ... the wrong way? Having some safe headroom may allow you some time to become aware of a short which otherwise might hard short the battery and cause it to go into thermal runaway.

It's a rare occurance, but a potentially real and devastating possibility to put a battery into thermal runaway. Spraying hot gas into the mod; if the mod has inadequate venting to release that hot gas, that metal mod becomes a little pipe bomb.

phot1o.jpgmod-explosion-3.jpgmod-explosion-2.jpgmodexplosion.jpg

Explain it for the dumb noob: Ohm's Law calculations

Most of this relates more for a mechanical mod than a regulated high wattage mod. The regulated high wattage mod will have protection circuitry and amp limits which should shut down the processor before limits are reached.
 
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nyiddle

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Spraying hot gas into the mod; if the mod has inadequate venting to release that hot gas, that metal mod becomes a little pipe bomb.

And actually it's kind of an aside, but it's worth mentioning. A lot of people who build super low ohms say, "Oh it's whatever, that's what vent holes are for!"

A Lithium battery, when venting, exerts something like a couple hundred pounds of pressure in a fraction of a second. If you think some dinky little holes in the bottom of your button are enough to keep your mod from rapidly expanding (exploding is the other word for it), you clearly never played with fire as a kid.
 

Baditude

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And actually it's kind of an aside, but it's worth mentioning. A lot of people who build super low ohms say, "Oh it's whatever, that's what vent holes are for!"

A Lithium battery, when venting, exerts something like a couple hundred pounds of pressure in a fraction of a second. If you think some dinky little holes in the bottom of your button are enough to keep your mod from rapidly expanding (exploding is the other word for it), you clearly never played with fire as a kid.
In addition to the above, a venting battery may actually expand in size, blocking those vent holes to prevent release of the hot gas. Look at the first pic that I posted. That's an AW IMR 18490 battery which is supposed to be safe chemistry and less likely to "explode". It expanded its length and size by leaps and bounds when it vented in thermal runaway. Imagine that happening in a mod.

Oh well, it always happens to another guy, right? Would never happen to me. :facepalm:
 
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Susan~S

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The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
 

Inka

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Reading this thread, I'm so confused and scared, since this is all new to me. I just bought the kbox 40 watt, and the purple efest IMR 18650 3.7 Li-Mn 2500 mAH that I'm using with my Nautilus Mini running at 8 watts. If I go to 13 watts on it, the vape is too hot for me. On the the side of the kbox there is a K logo with venting slits. I'm assuming this set up is safe?
 

RamShot Rowdy

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Reading this thread, I'm so confused and scared, since this is all new to me. I just bought the kbox 40 watt, and the purple efest IMR 18650 3.7 Li-Mn 2500 mAH that I'm using with my Nautilus Mini running at 8 watts. If I go to 13 watts on it, the vape is too hot for me. On the the side of the kbox there is a K logo with venting slits. I'm assuming this set up is safe?

Your battery is probably rated to deliver 20 amps of continuous current safely. If the KBOX shuts off when the battery reaches 3.2 volts (Couldn't find the shutoff voltage.) then it should never draw more than about 14-15 amps even when set to 40 watts. So your well within the safety limits of your battery.
 

Inka

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Your battery is probably rated to deliver 20 amps of continuous current safely. If the KBOX shuts off when the battery reaches 3.2 volts (Couldn't find the shutoff voltage.) then it should never draw more than about 14-15 amps even when set to 40 watts. So your well within the safety limits of your battery.

Thank you...I'm just confused and somewhat worried. Information overload on something I don't know about. Should have paid attention in science class 30+ years ago, like I would remember after all these years.
 
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