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Is this a rhetorical question?
Shampoo is better. I go on first and clean the hair.
Conditioner is better. I leave the hair silky and smooth.
Oh, really, fool? Really.
Shampoo is better. I go on first and clean the hair.
Conditioner is better. I leave the hair silky and smooth.
Oh, really, fool? Really.
You can't really have one without the other. You can have 1 million mah @ 1 volt and it wont help you out any you can't vape at 1volt. IF you have 3.7 volts a known good vaping voltage and say 1 mah well your only going to get half a hit out of that, then get really ...... off and have nicotine withdraws. So really what is best is a marriage of the two both should be intertwined and working together to be the best. SO really to answer your question they both are equally important or they are both the best it is a tie.
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id say use series and parallel to compare
you have two 3.7v batteries, at say 1000mah.
if you wire them in series you basically have one 7.4v battery at 1000mah.
if you wire them in parallel you basically have one 3.7v battery at 2000mah.
two different ways to use them, two different outcomes.
now with 7.4v set up, you will have more visible power to the atty, bigger th, more vapor.
in the the 3.7v set up, you will have noticeably longer run time on the same batteries.
now whats better? all depends on what your looking for really
you have two 3.7v batteries, at say 1000mah.
if you wire them in series you basically have one 7.4v battery at 1000mah.
if you wire them in parallel you basically have one 3.7v battery at 2000mah.
two different ways to use them, two different outcomes.
now with 7.4v set up, you will have more visible power to the atty, bigger th, more vapor.
in the the 3.7v set up, you will have noticeably longer run time on the same batteries.
now whats better? all depends on what your looking for really
Really it is all personal preference. You have to play around with it to find what you like. You can compare electricity to water running in pipes. Voltage is what pushes the electrons. This would compare to pressure that water is under(more voltage = more pressure). Mah rating would compare what size water tank you have. A huge water tank for a low pressure application could easily be over kill(a giant battery running low voltage).
I like a high Mah rating but am not willing to strap a battery backpack on to ensure no charging is required for the next couple of weeks.
Best voltage depends the rest of your gear and how you like your vapor.
I like a high Mah rating but am not willing to strap a battery backpack on to ensure no charging is required for the next couple of weeks.
Best voltage depends the rest of your gear and how you like your vapor.
Hmmm.....I mainly use meatsneaker's, have used Java's, but Nicks' is one I haven't seen before. Thanks Nicks
Another take on the OP.
Basically with li-ion batts you have two choices for single batts - 3.0V & 3.7V. These are nominal voltages, by which I mean that fresh off the charger voltage will be a bit higher. So if you like vaping at these voltages, and with different ohm atties/cartos available, you can get to a general "sweet spot"; the higher mah that you can get, the better. This will mean longer times between needing to charge the batt.
If you use 2 batts in series for higher voltage vaping, you will still be better off with higher mah batts for the same reason.
And like Nicks pointed out, 2 batts in series doubles the total voltage while the total mah is the same as a single batt. 2 batts in parallel doubles the total mah while the total voltage is the same as a single batt.
The mah (and the specific li-ion chemistry) is also an indication of how much current can be drawn from the batt; but that's another topic
Basically with li-ion batts you have two choices for single batts - 3.0V & 3.7V. These are nominal voltages, by which I mean that fresh off the charger voltage will be a bit higher. So if you like vaping at these voltages, and with different ohm atties/cartos available, you can get to a general "sweet spot"; the higher mah that you can get, the better. This will mean longer times between needing to charge the batt.
If you use 2 batts in series for higher voltage vaping, you will still be better off with higher mah batts for the same reason.
And like Nicks pointed out, 2 batts in series doubles the total voltage while the total mah is the same as a single batt. 2 batts in parallel doubles the total mah while the total voltage is the same as a single batt.
The mah (and the specific li-ion chemistry) is also an indication of how much current can be drawn from the batt; but that's another topic
I must point this out. No one really vapes directly off two stacked batteries or 7.4 volts. Just about everyone will slap a regulator on the 7.4 and take it down to at least 5 volts. Better yet they will go VV with so they can adjust the voltage. Now with a linear reg it will be burning up alot of Mah as heat. But you slap a good switching regulator on that joker and your really getting alot of mah back. A 90% efficient switching reg set to 3.7 volts and you will be getting 1800 mah outa your two stacked 1000mah batteries. Your also going to get 3.7 volts from start to finish as where in a paralleled config your going to be going from 4.2 down to 2.75 volts so not a steady voltage threw the battery discharge cycle. Just thought I would point that out cause alot of folks think you automaticly lose that MAh when stacking and you dont really. 2 amps at 7.4 volts has twice the watts as 2 amps @ 3.7 volts. In electronics you really can't just look at one measurement. Just like the ohms law chart you pretty much always have to factor two measurements/readings to get a accurate picture.
Example: a 3 amp switch rated 12 volts is not the same as a 3 amp switch rated @ 48 volts. The 48volt switch can handle 3 times the amount of watts as the 12 volt. If you ran the 48 volt switch at 12 volts it can handle 12 amps
Example: a 3 amp switch rated 12 volts is not the same as a 3 amp switch rated @ 48 volts. The 48volt switch can handle 3 times the amount of watts as the 12 volt. If you ran the 48 volt switch at 12 volts it can handle 12 amps
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To further Java's argument, I greatly prefer higher voltage with a booster or switching regulator as in real world vaping you are pressing the switch for shorter times at higher voltage compared to longer presses at 3.7. This combined with the sagging voltage of using a single battery gets me better relative satisfaction throughout the entire cycle of the battery.
A single IMR 14500 boosted I vape until it gets down to 2.95-3v, and the same battery naked I need to charge when it gets down to 3.6v at the very lowest.
A single IMR 14500 boosted I vape until it gets down to 2.95-3v, and the same battery naked I need to charge when it gets down to 3.6v at the very lowest.
I think ideal capacity depends on personal preference really. It's going to be a trade off for size versus charging frequency. I initially wanted a mod with a lot of capacity and that's what I made for myself, but now I'm willing to give up some for a smaller device. The one I'm working on now will have less capacity and a smaller size.
When talking about single cell boost or dual cell regulated mods, voltage is really a moot point since you can set it wherever you like it. It's hard for me to vape without a regulator. I dislike battery fade and I like higher voltage. Though I could possibly get by with an unregulated mod and an LR cartomizer, but then I'd have to live with battery fade. The eGo type devices just don't put out enough power for me even with LR so those are out of the question.
When talking about single cell boost or dual cell regulated mods, voltage is really a moot point since you can set it wherever you like it. It's hard for me to vape without a regulator. I dislike battery fade and I like higher voltage. Though I could possibly get by with an unregulated mod and an LR cartomizer, but then I'd have to live with battery fade. The eGo type devices just don't put out enough power for me even with LR so those are out of the question.
Cool...that answers my questions..Ok..here is the deal. I'm wanting to make my own variable mod...but I've never soldered more than a standard nicostick-style 3.7 mod. LED, Resister...etc. So..what want is to take a 3AA battery box and wire the batts in series with a...I think its called a POT trimmer....switch and so-forth in the center channel. I'd like to be able to to change the voltage on the fly from 3.7 up to 5. So...is there a good tutorial or schematic I can follow? As few circuits as possible please lol. I'm still new at this.
You could go the easy route and skip the VV part for now and just use a linear regulator.... but it isn't all that much more to make a http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/114901-evercool-variable-voltage-mod.html or one that is somewhat simpler: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/191607-easy-okr-t-vv-mod.html
Both of these are quite a bit more efficient and better quality, but more work than a 3-pin regulator.
Both of these are quite a bit more efficient and better quality, but more work than a 3-pin regulator.
Dang...I think that is just a bit beyond my capabilities right now. So how do I just wire up one of those three pin regulators? I do know I need to add some extra metal such as solder to the tab to help control the heat.
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