why did my dna 30 board just...

[Doug_xx2]

I got my first DNA board and broke the screen on it because I missed a small burr in my case so I ordered a second one. I got the second one and put it together. Soldering went smoothly assembly came together fine. I got it all together and actually vaped it for a couple of hours last night. plugged a mini USB into it to charge the batteries while I slept and got up to charged batteries and a green light. I attached my dripper and began to vape on it and it was working fine then all of a sudden smoke..... I don't understand why. It was installed securely into my board and working fine then all of a sudden one of the chips just decided to go into nuclear meltdown. I ripped it open and removed the batteries. disassembled it and found a burnt chip. I attached some pics.










as you can see from the picture I have two pptc 6A fuses between the batteries and the board. I cannot see why this happened. What the heck is going on here???

 

[vinnyvango]

I'd say that's a manufacturers defect. Send the pics to Evolv. They have been great about the warranty and have very good customer service. Sorry about the bad luck.

 

[Doug_xx2]

well I just got a reply for with an rma so I guess I will see what happens. they said they want to look at it before they will make a call. That seems fair.

 

[etchie]

Yeah, I've heard of many cases in which they've been really good about replacing chips, and that's just from lurking. Definitely update this when you get more info!

 

[Doug_xx2]

Yeah I heard that to Etchie.

You know I would like to take this opportunity to point out a few things because someone ITRW pointed out that the point of this thread could be interpreted wrong. (my people skills suck but my friends tell me I have other redeeming qualities)

The point of this thread was NOT to bash evolve.

I am not sure why this DNA board went into meltdown like it did but I am sure that if there was something wrong with the board it was not a design flaw but a simple manufacturing mistake. Anytime something is mass produced there is going to be a percentage of that product that comes off the line flawed. This happens no matter what whether we are talking about Ferrari's or lightbulbs. The process can be tweaked to catch many of these mistakes but neither man or machine is perfect.

If I came off a little angry that is because I was. I paid over 100 dollars for a dna 30 kit from atozvaporworld.com and it didn't even come with a box. Then because I was too stupid to get off the phone, an inexperienced solderer, an inexperienced fabricator and had never ever not even once soldered anything into a circuit board ever I did a crappy job soldering the wires into the board and broke the OLED screen during installation. I knew I couldn't afford to pay what I did for my "kit" but I did it anyway because I figured I wouldn't need another ecig battery for a good long time and it sounded cool. Plus the DUAL 18650's I was using to power it could be replaced instead of throwing it away when it stopped taking a charge like I was going to have to do with my ego twist batteries and finally I wanted to know I could do it myself. Well I had never dealt with evolve before and my experience dealing with the people at a to z was not good so I was expecting the same from evolve so instead of dumping my work down the toilet and saying to h@ll with it I bit the bullet and bought another board that same night. This time it was a bit cheaper I only paid for the DNA 30 because I didn't need the rest of the stuff (I paid $85 for it. Still way too much since evolve charges $45). BTW The people/person at evolve were very helpful and offered to solder a new screen on my DNA for just $10 Which I gladly paid. Then when the new board comes I finish my mod. In fact I got it all together that night. There was a few things I needed to deal with but it was working perfectly IMHO. Then disaster struck. The worst part was I didn't even know why. So yes I was confused and a little upset.

I know that everyone says Evolve is good about replacement and in fact my own experience with evolve has only been cordial and good to this point. H@ll they are going to put a new screen on my first DNA 30 for just $10 no questions asked and I know full well that was my fault. The reason I kept saying I hoped they would replace this second board was I didn't know what else to say and my experience with getting electronics replaced has not always been great. (I think most of you can relate)

The point of this thread was that I was confused and wanted desperately to know what had happened. I thought I had done everything just as it should be done. I even bought 10 of those pptc 6a fuses so I could put 2 in both of my mods and have some left for anything else I might want to do. I spent a lot of money (it didn't end with the kit and fuses. I also had to buy several other things to make my mod) I couldn't afford and now it had just blown up in my face (figuratively or is that literally speaking ) so I just wanted to understand why. To know what if anything I had done wrong. Even to have someone reassure me that I had done it right and it wasn't my fault. Anything. I thank those who commented both here and in the mirror thread at the breaktru forum.

I hope that evolve does help me out. I am just kicking myself in the ... real real hard right now for spending all this money.

Be well

Doug_xx2

 

[etchie]

It seems like so many people don't understand this concept. There's never going to be a 0% failure rate on products, especially electronics. All too often one thing goes wrong and suddenly the product is a piece of crap and the company sucks. It didn't sound like you were coming off that way at all to me. I know very little about Evolve, but everything I know is positive.

 

[Visus]

I think your coming off like a panzy, I would be livid after two mishaps even though the 1st time was my own fault.

I would get on the phone with them ask do they need coffee and donuts then lay into them about how awesome their design is and how it vapes just about anything I throw at it. Then while chit chatting tell them why China is so much superior at sending units that fry. Yeah, your post is quite wimpy..

It has a year warranty and from your pics it looks promising OP I betcha you will be another happy customer..

 

[Doug_xx2]

well I think it was working great until it did what it did.

I don't have a phone number. I would love to get some of their people alone for coffee and donuts so I could pick their brains.

I'm sorry that you think me clearing up the point of this post was wimpy and pansy like. I guess I could have railed on about it like a Di@k head instead. I just chose not to and when someone I showed the thread to here at my house said Jeez you know "I hope they don't think your talking Sh@t about evolve because everyone says their boards are the sh@t maybe you should clear it up so people know what you wanted". I decided to do just that. I did tend to go a little too much in the opposite direction maybe but what the h3ll I'm not going to offend anyone by being nice (I think). She is a MUCH better people person than I am so I tend to trust her opinion as my people skills suck swamp water.

 

[Visus]

well I think it was working great until it did what it did.

I don't have a phone number. I would love to get some of their people alone for coffee and donuts so I could pick their brains.

I'm sorry that you think me clearing up the point of this post was wimpy and pansy like. I guess I could have railed on about it like a Di@k head instead. I just chose not to and when someone I showed the thread to here at my house said Jeez you know "I hope they don't think your talking Sh@t about evolve because everyone says their boards are the sh@t maybe you should clear it up so people know what you wanted". I decided to do just that. I did tend to go a little too much in the opposite direction maybe but what the h3ll I'm not going to offend anyone by being nice (I think). She is a MUCH better people person than I am so I tend to trust her opinion as my people skills suck swamp water.

I was kidding your not really coming off as a panzy, your/our dollar spent is important to all of us
because I could throw in a few happy's, everyone who buys a DNA feeling great about their vape I added to yours..

Hoping make you feel better about it with the lighter side of things.
For all they do for the vaping community they deserve a cup of joe and a side of sugar flour..
(Price is right and design awesome..) I tip everyone

They have very few failures from reads and thats awesome
you were just the unlucky of a few and that happens..
The 1st mishap is not counted and I think your head is counting it,
cant blame ya there but even the masterbuilders have snapped that screen off..

 

[Doug_xx2]

I was kidding your not really coming off as a panzy, your/our dollar spent is important to all of us
because I could throw in a few happy's, everyone who buys a DNA feeling great about their vape I added to yours..

Hoping make you feel better about it with the lighter side of things.
For all they do for the vaping community they deserve a cup of joe and a side of sugar flour..
(Price is right and design awesome..) I tip everyone

They have very few failures from reads and thats awesome
you were just the unlucky of a few and that happens..
The 1st mishap is not counted and I think your head is counting it,
cant blame ya there but even the masterbuilders have snapped that screen off..

Oh ok I thought you were really calling my a pansy lol my bad

 

[Visus]

Oh ok I thought you were really calling my a pansy lol my bad

woot
you lol'd thats what I was looking for

 

[Doug_xx2]

woot
you lol'd thats what I was looking for

Yeah I've been a bit depressed over this. got just under 300 total into this. Not a lot of money for some people but it is definitely enough money for my sense of humor to be severely impared.....

Breath in hold... Count to 10 and exhale slowly... as you are exhaling envision all of the stress in your body flowing from your fingertips...

yeah right...

More like
scream..
throw the screwdriver you had in your hand to remove the batteries across kitchen..
scream some more..
pace back and forth for a few minutes...
restrain yourself from smashing new mod into a million bits because your gonna need it to return the board...
scream some more...
thank goodness your alone and that nobody else can see you acting like an ......
figure out what to do next..
realize you can't think beyond how screwed your build budget is and how many other things you could have spent that money on...
try to remember that this is not going to happen to you every time you try to do something...
calm down a bit and remember that your leg does indeed reach your own bottom and that when done fast enough and with enough force you can indeed kick yourself in the ......
get depressed over it...

you get the picture
lol

 

[awj03130]

I'm interested to find out what happened. Im sort of in the same boat regarding build skills and I'm just finishing up my mod today and I'm afraid... 510 insulator split, so I jammed epoxy in there... Drilled the screen hole .5 mm too wide in all directions... Ordered SMD fuses instead of PTC... Using 18 gauge baided copper speaker wire because the 20 gauge door bell wire wasn't holding solder...

Oh, and I'm quite terrible with a soldering iron.

I'm glad there's some fuses in there, because I feel like the chances that I have accidentally built a thermonuclear device are quite high.

If this thing powers up and doesn't pull a 3-mile Island, that is proof enough to me that God is at work in my life.

 

[Nouseforanick]

Best of luck.

I just started soldering up the wires onto the DNA30 which i receive today..Powers up and charge okay. Need to do the rest and test out the completed circuit before mounting it into the hammond case.

 

[Doug_xx2]

I'm interested to find out what happened. Im sort of in the same boat regarding build skills and I'm just finishing up my mod today and I'm afraid... 510 insulator split, so I jammed epoxy in there... Drilled the screen hole .5 mm too wide in all directions... Ordered SMD fuses instead of PTC... Using 18 gauge baided copper speaker wire because the 20 gauge door bell wire wasn't holding solder...

Oh, and I'm quite terrible with a soldering iron.

I'm glad there's some fuses in there, because I feel like the chances that I have accidentally built a thermonuclear device are quite high.

If this thing powers up and doesn't pull a 3-mile Island, that is proof enough to me that God is at work in my life.

What happened....

Well that is a long story...

well where to start.....

First let me say I hope that if you are using speaker wire for the battery and atty connections the insulation can withstand getting a little warm. If you wire this thing up and the insulation melts off the wires while you are vaping at a high current it might be a bad problem. and I am not thinking that 18 gauge wire will fit in the holes. 20 gauge was a tight fit.

If you are looking for something to take up the room for that screen there is a link for mamu's screen cradle that might work for you check this link for more info:

DNA Screen and Volt Meter Housings at Shapeways

If you are looking for a good 510 connector I finally ended up using this one:
Fatdaddyvapes Mechanical Mod Complete 510 Thread Repair Insert Kits | eBay
and you can get it directly from his store here:
SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vaping equipment, eliquids, and supplies!!!

As I understand it the problem with smd fuses is if you blow one then you gotta take everything apart to replace it and the ptc fuses are self resetting. Mamu has a good fuse tutorial here:

Wiring PTC Fuses

or here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...g-appropriate-fuse-your-mod.html#post11996664

Breaktru says he uses loctite heavy duty professional epoxy with a five minute set time That stuff only has a 130 degree temp limit so it might not do so well around atty connectors. if you are going to use the atty connector I gave a link to from fat daddy vapes it has a nut to keep it in place though. alternately the loctite general purpose epoxy has a 300 degree limit which should be fine on an atty connector.

You are going to want a low resistance connection at the battery and the atty with wiring that is not overly long whatever you go with.

I have found that the dual 18650 battery holder that I bought from amazon is not great even after I yanked out the contacts and rewired it into a parallel configuration because at 30 watts when the batteries are under drain during heavy vaping the springs heat up and contract breaking connection and rebooting the board (when they cool and come back into place the connection is reestablished). I have not found a suitable solution to this problem yet.

You are going to want to fuse both the positive and negative sides of the battery feed so as not to burn up the board. There is no reverse polarity protection on the board at all.

If you are looking for a place to get ptc fuses or wire I bought my ptc fuses from Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor .

As far as wire choices The Ideal wire sizes are 20 gauge for the atty and battery connections and 24 for everything else. I also found 20 gauge wire to be hard to come by as my local radio shack only carried it in a solid core or a speaker or telephone wire (and I was asked more than once if I was building a bomb when trying to get 20 and 24 gauge wire from the local hardware and auto stores and tried to explain to them I needed the wire for a small piece of electronics I was building lol). I found that solid core was unsuitable as when I was trying to move stuff around to get it into my box they would break. and desoldering was a pain in the rear. I did manage it though with a solder sucker and some .050 inch no clean desoldering braid (and a second set of hands to push the button on the solder sucker. I did eventually find a hobby shop the next town over that deals with model trains and RC cars and they had 20 gauge wire. There is a range of wire sizes in the data sheet for the DNA. It can be found here:

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna30.pdf

I too had a real problem with soldering. I guess that is because any soldering I had had to do in the past was limited to a copper pipe using a blow torch. I found the following tutorials to be very helpful especially the one about proper soldering:

Easy Tutorials



Now as far as what went wrong with that board... heh

I still don't know...

I got a replacement though with no problem. I just I wish I knew why it did what it did....

The worst part is that the board I sent in to get the screen replaced went about pretty much immediately doing it when I got it in the box and started vaping on it. They were both from a to z vapor world. I really don't know why they did it and I am not saying it has anything to do with who I bought it from.

I can say the replacement board I got from evolv directly is not doing that and I am going on day two vaping it.

I have altered my original design in as far as I have gone with a hammond enclosure as well, scrapped the atty connector that came with the a to z kit, using a battery holder, using pptc fuses on the positive and negative sides of the battery box instead of just one side. Which is to say I have totally changed what I am building LOL but... the problem here is that the second board that fried did so in the newly designed mod configuration.

This seems very strange to me as it is now working fine with the replacement board for the one that was originally fried. I have looked both boards over and the only difference I can see with my untrained eye is that this chip seems to be different between the two boards (and of course the fact one says evolve dna and the other says a to z vapor world when I turn them on)

This is the replacement I got from evolve and it seems to be holding up


This is the chip that was on both boards that smoked


I still don't know what is up with that... I do not know why it smoked either time...I know that as of right now I have a working DNA mod that I need to finish my lexan cover for and put new battery contacts into but as to why the other two boards smoked I am completely baffled.

I do feel like I could make another one. I am not of the opinion that I did anything in particular to make those two boards let out all of their factory smoke. I am glad that I got at least one working DNA mod out of all of this. I have a lot more into it than it would have cost me to just buy one but I have learned a lot, been put on the track to doing/learning a lot more, and have the satisfaction of having made the dang thing myself.

now for a breakdown of what I got into it

$6.85 at lowes for a 21/64th's and a 13/64th's drill bit and some blades for my razor knife

$8.62 at lowes for a lexan sheet and some finishing washers (didn't end up using the washers)
around $10.00 at walmart for loctite general purpose epoxy (300 degree temp rating) and some craft foam for spacing I decided not to use.

$15.31 at fat daddy vapes for atty connector's to be honest it is for three only used one.

$19.88 on ebay to buy the professional strength loctite epoxy

$36.00 on amazon for an enclosure, heatshrink, desoldering braid, and battery holder

$13.38 at mouser electronics for 10 pptc fuses

$85.00 at a to z vapor world for a ($45.00) dna 30d

$124.99 at a to z vapor world for a dna board, three spherical chrome tactile switches, one slider switch, and a cheap silver plated atty connector (I did not use the atty connector).

$8.00 from radio shack.com for a roll of silver bearing solder.

$25.00 for an adjustable wattage soldering iron

$5.00 for a fine point soldering iron tip from radioshack.com

$20.00 for two fifty foot rolls of 20 gauge wire from a local hobby shop (wanted two different colors one for positive one for negative)

$71.57 for RadioShack Electronics Components Pack 1 Model: 2760253 | Catalog #: 276-253 (to be fair this and the next item are for me to learn electronics using the platt electronics book and nothing in them was suitable for building this mod other than something from me to learn on)

$89.46 RadioShack Electronics Components Pack 2 Model: 2760254 | Catalog #: 276-254 (again to be fair this and the last item was for me to learn electronics using the platt electronics book and nothing in them was suitable for building this mod other than something from me to learn on)

and a few dollars on other things I did not end up using for what ever reason.

I believe I have 529.06 tied up in building this thing plus a few odds and ends (lol that sucks). I can hope that evolve will replace this second board that burnt but I am not going to plan on it. maybe they will maybe they won't but at least I know I can build one of these and what I need to use to do it and I have at least one working mod out of it. I do have enough epoxy and wire and solder and some other things to last forever to lol. I also have a new hobby. I know it will get better from here. I also invested a little over $40.00 to buy a vamo v5 a couple of days ago after the second a to z board let out all of it's factory smoke just in case this now third attempt did not work out.

I will post a pic when I get the cover done and I know this one is going to keep working lol. give me about a week as I got some other things that I have been neglecting lately that need to be taken care of first but at this stage I must say that it has been up and working since about 1:30 am last night and right now it is 8:37 pm I live on the night shift so I was sleeping between 6:30 am and 1:00 pm today



I would also like to take this opportunity to thank breaktru, craighb, mamu, bapgood, skyfntm, retird for spoon feeding this hungry newb all the way as it would not have happened at all without all of their help.

All I can say is wow what a learning experience. Now I am going to try to learn how to make the step down and boost boards myself, try to get an rma for this second fried board, and set out on the road to enlightenment to the fascinating world of micro electronics.

Wish me luck...
I'm gonna need it!


I hope this all helped someone
Doug_xx2

 

[retird]

As you posted..... (and of course the fact one says evolve dna and the other says a to z vapor world when I turn them on)

Evolv probably programed A to Z into the chip for A to Z. They did the same for the chips for the ZNA mod that Zen is selling....

 

[Doug_xx2]

True as I said where I bought them should not make a difference and the text means nothing to function

 

[wedoitall]

What happened....

Well that is a long story...

well where to start.....

First let me say I hope that if you are using speaker wire for the battery and atty connections the insulation can withstand getting a little warm. If you wire this thing up and the insulation melts off the wires while you are vaping at a high current it might be a bad problem. and I am not thinking that 18 gauge wire will fit in the holes. 20 gauge was a tight fit.

If you are looking for something to take up the room for that screen there is a link for mamu's screen cradle that might work for you check this link for more info:

DNA Screen and Volt Meter Housings at Shapeways

If you are looking for a good 510 connector I finally ended up using this one:
Fatdaddyvapes Mechanical Mod Complete 510 Thread Repair Insert Kits | eBay
and you can get it directly from his store here:
SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vaping equipment, eliquids, and supplies!!!

As I understand it the problem with smd fuses is if you blow one then you gotta take everything apart to replace it and the ptc fuses are self resetting. Mamu has a good fuse tutorial here:

Wiring PTC Fuses

or here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...g-appropriate-fuse-your-mod.html#post11996664

Breaktru says he uses loctite heavy duty professional epoxy with a five minute set time That stuff only has a 130 degree temp limit so it might not do so well around atty connectors. if you are going to use the atty connector I gave a link to from fat daddy vapes it has a nut to keep it in place though. alternately the loctite general purpose epoxy has a 300 degree limit which should be fine on an atty connector.

You are going to want a low resistance connection at the battery and the atty with wiring that is not overly long whatever you go with.

I have found that the dual 18650 battery holder that I bought from amazon is not great even after I yanked out the contacts and rewired it into a parallel configuration because at 30 watts when the batteries are under drain during heavy vaping the springs heat up and contract breaking connection and rebooting the board (when they cool and come back into place the connection is reestablished). I have not found a suitable solution to this problem yet.

You are going to want to fuse both the positive and negative sides of the battery feed so as not to burn up the board. There is no reverse polarity protection on the board at all.

If you are looking for a place to get ptc fuses or wire I bought my ptc fuses from Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor .

As far as wire choices The Ideal wire sizes are 20 gauge for the atty and battery connections and 24 for everything else. I also found 20 gauge wire to be hard to come by as my local radio shack only carried it in a solid core or a speaker or telephone wire (and I was asked more than once if I was building a bomb when trying to get 20 and 24 gauge wire from the local hardware and auto stores and tried to explain to them I needed the wire for a small piece of electronics I was building lol). I found that solid core was unsuitable as when I was trying to move stuff around to get it into my box they would break. and desoldering was a pain in the rear. I did manage it though with a solder sucker and some .050 inch no clean desoldering braid (and a second set of hands to push the button on the solder sucker. I did eventually find a hobby shop the next town over that deals with model trains and RC cars and they had 20 gauge wire. There is a range of wire sizes in the data sheet for the DNA. It can be found here:

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna30.pdf

I too had a real problem with soldering. I guess that is because any soldering I had had to do in the past was limited to a copper pipe using a blow torch. I found the following tutorials to be very helpful especially the one about proper soldering:

Easy Tutorials



Now as far as what went wrong with that board... heh

I still don't know...

I got a replacement though with no problem. I just I wish I knew why it did what it did....

The worst part is that the board I sent in to get the screen replaced went about pretty much immediately doing it when I got it in the box and started vaping on it. They were both from a to z vapor world. I really don't know why they did it and I am not saying it has anything to do with who I bought it from.

I can say the replacement board I got from evolv directly is not doing that and I am going on day two vaping it.

I have altered my original design in as far as I have gone with a hammond enclosure as well, scrapped the atty connector that came with the a to z kit, using a battery holder, using pptc fuses on the positive and negative sides of the battery box instead of just one side. Which is to say I have totally changed what I am building LOL but... the problem here is that the second board that fried did so in the newly designed mod configuration.

This seems very strange to me as it is now working fine with the replacement board for the one that was originally fried. I have looked both boards over and the only difference I can see with my untrained eye is that this chip seems to be different between the two boards (and of course the fact one says evolve dna and the other says a to z vapor world when I turn them on)

This is the replacement I got from evolve and it seems to be holding up
View attachment 318061

This is the chip that was on both boards that smoked
View attachment 318062

I still don't know what is up with that... I do not know why it smoked either time...I know that as of right now I have a working DNA mod that I need to finish my lexan cover for and put new battery contacts into but as to why the other two boards smoked I am completely baffled.

I do feel like I could make another one. I am not of the opinion that I did anything in particular to make those two boards let out all of their factory smoke. I am glad that I got at least one working DNA mod out of all of this. I have a lot more into it than it would have cost me to just buy one but I have learned a lot, been put on the track to doing/learning a lot more, and have the satisfaction of having made the dang thing myself.

now for a breakdown of what I got into it

$6.85 at lowes for a 21/64th's and a 13/64th's drill bit and some blades for my razor knife

$8.62 at lowes for a lexan sheet and some finishing washers (didn't end up using the washers)
around $10.00 at walmart for loctite general purpose epoxy (300 degree temp rating) and some craft foam for spacing I decided not to use.

$15.31 at fat daddy vapes for atty connector's to be honest it is for three only used one.

$19.88 on ebay to buy the professional strength loctite epoxy

$36.00 on amazon for an enclosure, heatshrink, desoldering braid, and battery holder

$13.38 at mouser electronics for 10 pptc fuses

$85.00 at a to z vapor world for a ($45.00) dna 30d

$124.99 at a to z vapor world for a dna board, three spherical chrome tactile switches, one slider switch, and a cheap silver plated atty connector (I did not use the atty connector).

$8.00 from radio shack.com for a roll of silver bearing solder.

$25.00 for an adjustable wattage soldering iron

$5.00 for a fine point soldering iron tip from radioshack.com

$20.00 for two fifty foot rolls of 20 gauge wire from a local hobby shop (wanted two different colors one for positive one for negative)

$71.57 for RadioShack Electronics Components Pack 1 Model: 2760253 | Catalog #: 276-253 (to be fair this and the next item are for me to learn electronics using the platt electronics book and nothing in them was suitable for building this mod other than something from me to learn on)

$89.46 RadioShack Electronics Components Pack 2 Model: 2760254 | Catalog #: 276-254 (again to be fair this and the last item was for me to learn electronics using the platt electronics book and nothing in them was suitable for building this mod other than something from me to learn on)

and a few dollars on other things I did not end up using for what ever reason.

I believe I have 529.06 tied up in building this thing plus a few odds and ends (lol that sucks). I can hope that evolve will replace this second board that burnt but I am not going to plan on it. maybe they will maybe they won't but at least I know I can build one of these and what I need to use to do it and I have at least one working mod out of it. I do have enough epoxy and wire and solder and some other things to last forever to lol. I also have a new hobby. I know it will get better from here. I also invested a little over $40.00 to buy a vamo v5 a couple of days ago after the second a to z board let out all of it's factory smoke just in case this now third attempt did not work out.

I will post a pic when I get the cover done and I know this one is going to keep working lol. give me about a week as I got some other things that I have been neglecting lately that need to be taken care of first but at this stage I must say that it has been up and working since about 1:30 am last night and right now it is 8:37 pm I live on the night shift so I was sleeping between 6:30 am and 1:00 pm today



I would also like to take this opportunity to thank breaktru, craighb, mamu, bapgood, skyfntm, retird for spoon feeding this hungry newb all the way as it would not have happened at all without all of their help.

All I can say is wow what a learning experience. Now I am going to try to learn how to make the step down and boost boards myself, try to get an rma for this second fried board, and set out on the road to enlightenment to the fascinating world of micro electronics.

Wish me luck...
I'm gonna need it!


I hope this all helped someone
Doug_xx2

Nice post. I get my wire from buddyrc.com out of OH.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[awj03130]

Doug_xx2, it worked awesome as I built it...


Until...


I tried to charge it. I had heat shrunk the charging board, and wasn't thinking. A few seconds after plugging it in (was working fine, no shorts), the wrap melted and caught fire. Fortunately, I had milled the charging port incorrectly and was charging with the cover off, so I was able to put it out. Putting my thumb on the still-on-fire board didn't work, so I sacrificed my t shirt lol. Also fortunately, the board was still 100% functional after the fire lol.


Moral of the story, don't heat shrink your charging boards.

Sent from HAL 2000 using Tapatalk

 

[Doug_xx2]

Doug_xx2, it worked awesome as I built it...


Until...


I tried to charge it. I had heat shrunk the charging board, and wasn't thinking. A few seconds after plugging it in (was working fine, no shorts), the wrap melted and caught fire. Fortunately, I had milled the charging port incorrectly and was charging with the cover off, so I was able to put it out. Putting my thumb on the still-on-fire board didn't work, so I sacrificed my t shirt lol. Also fortunately, the board was still 100% functional after the fire lol.


Moral of the story, don't heat shrink your charging boards.

Sent from HAL 2000 using Tapatalk

was that with the evolve charging board?

wow!!