Why so much money??
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Some clones are worth while, but i feel where you're coming from. There are some mechs that are authentic and have fair pricing. I'm currently vaping on an XXIX which is less than 200 USD. Low profile, copper mod with hybrid top cap and copper firing pin. Can't put it down. Have a Turtle Ship V1 clone that hits hard and a Nemmy clone that is just ok IMO. Looking to get my hands on the SMPL by epic design studios. It's another hybrid top cap and if I'm not mistaken runs for about 150 USD.
As for some of these other mechs....well, I do understand that when manufacturing from top quality materials the end price is affected but I feel very strongly that some companies are banking on their name to sell their product (I'm sure we can all think of one...you know, comes with a nice little pelican case? lol)
As for some of these other mechs....well, I do understand that when manufacturing from top quality materials the end price is affected but I feel very strongly that some companies are banking on their name to sell their product (I'm sure we can all think of one...you know, comes with a nice little pelican case? lol)
If you want something good, that holds it's resale value, provides better features than a glorified battery tube, and doesn't look like a phallus replacement, look into a Reos bottom feed box with a bottom feed atty. It's more than just a battery tube and gives a better dripping experience (and with less hassle) because of the feed system. You are still up into the $225.00 range depending on which atty you choose to pair with it - but at least there is a point to what you are spending that money on.
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If you want something good, that holds it's resale value, provides better features that a glorified battery tube, and doesn't look like a phallus replacement, look into a Reos bottom feed box with a bottom feed atty. It's more than just a battery tube and gives a better dripping experience (and with less hassle) because of the feed system. You are still up into the $225.00 range depending on which atty you choose to pair with it - but at least there is a point to what you are spending that money on.
Pretty much why the SMPL will be the last mech I buy! Going to make the jump to ReoVille soon as they get the wood ones back in. Just not a fan of the top firing Reos.
Wood may be a long time coming. Rob started the last batch in November last year and they didn't go on sale until the end of March this year. The Grand size - all 300 of them - was sold out in about three hours. There is no projection at this point as to if or when Rob will be making them again. It will happen, but it's usually about two years between batches.
Get yourself verified so you have access to the classifieds. When the Woodvilles get listed many of them sell within 20 minutes, typically at their full retail price, give or take about 10%. I don't know of any other mods that hold their value like a Reo. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ember-explained-more-detail-faq-included.html
+1 for the Reo idea. If/when you hold one, you see where the money went and you don't feel gouged (your original question). It will last well past any vapocalypse and is even rebuildable with a $25 kit should buttons, pins, springs, or tubes (it's a bottom feeder) fail.
As for other expensive mods, the same quality and functionality applies for some, but I think you're paying a premium for the prestige. It's a statement of pride, refinement, and prowess. When, in the last 20 years, could you say that about smoking anything (save, perhaps, for high end cigars)? I think for many customers, it's about feeling good about themselves and the activity - a cathartic rebirth after the stigma of being a smoker, and they'll happily pay for that (to wit, what the market will bear). This, then, begets a fashion and the prices soar even higher (haute couture, anyone?).
We in Reoville, however, just want a bloody good vape - very pragmatic bunch, we are. Form follows function, and, man, does the Reo ever function.
As for other expensive mods, the same quality and functionality applies for some, but I think you're paying a premium for the prestige. It's a statement of pride, refinement, and prowess. When, in the last 20 years, could you say that about smoking anything (save, perhaps, for high end cigars)? I think for many customers, it's about feeling good about themselves and the activity - a cathartic rebirth after the stigma of being a smoker, and they'll happily pay for that (to wit, what the market will bear). This, then, begets a fashion and the prices soar even higher (haute couture, anyone?).
We in Reoville, however, just want a bloody good vape - very pragmatic bunch, we are. Form follows function, and, man, does the Reo ever function.
Various reasons. All of which pop up in one incarnation of this thread or another.
- Manufacturing in "the West" vs manufacturing in a Special Economic Zone in China. Costs... differ... a... lot!
- Premium grade metals. Not "stainless steel". Or "brass". More like surgical steel or lead-free Naval brass.
- Small scale production (100s) vs large scale production (10.000s)
- Design takes time. Some needs more time than others... and some value their time differently
- Prototyping costs money. Quite a lot of money per unit.
- What better way to make an item "exclusive" by slapping on a bigger price tag than the next guy?
I have no dogs in this fight. I own clones, but mainly use (and prefer) originals. I'm not really trying to defend the high prices. Some charge way too much, in my opinion. Pay it if you feel it's worth it TO YOU. Nor am I trying to knock clones.
I don't think I would ever pay $300+ for any mod. I don't think I've ever paid $200, even. I can't even imagine the kind of features I would want from a $300+ mod. I have no idea. I just know that "being expensive" is not a feature in my books.
Get a Nanos, get a Paps, get a Gus. All great mods. None of them will cost you $200+. Hmm... maybe the Paps X will.
Oh... and... you Reo guys.
(Don't get me wrong. Love you all.)
- Manufacturing in "the West" vs manufacturing in a Special Economic Zone in China. Costs... differ... a... lot!
- Premium grade metals. Not "stainless steel". Or "brass". More like surgical steel or lead-free Naval brass.
- Small scale production (100s) vs large scale production (10.000s)
- Design takes time. Some needs more time than others... and some value their time differently
- Prototyping costs money. Quite a lot of money per unit.
- What better way to make an item "exclusive" by slapping on a bigger price tag than the next guy?
I have no dogs in this fight. I own clones, but mainly use (and prefer) originals. I'm not really trying to defend the high prices. Some charge way too much, in my opinion. Pay it if you feel it's worth it TO YOU. Nor am I trying to knock clones.
I don't think I would ever pay $300+ for any mod. I don't think I've ever paid $200, even. I can't even imagine the kind of features I would want from a $300+ mod. I have no idea. I just know that "being expensive" is not a feature in my books.
Get a Nanos, get a Paps, get a Gus. All great mods. None of them will cost you $200+. Hmm... maybe the Paps X will.
Oh... and... you Reo guys.
(Don't get me wrong. Love you all.)
Actual Clone: A 1 to 1 reproduction of the First
i.e. a Worthless clone should be an exact copy of a Worthless Mod
I have a 4Nine($12.xx) that cost me $2.xx with a gift certificate for $10.
Will it last? Who knows, but it is built just like the original.
Have I gotten my moneys worth? Yes and then some.
i.e. a Worthless clone should be an exact copy of a Worthless Mod
I have a 4Nine($12.xx) that cost me $2.xx with a gift certificate for $10.
Will it last? Who knows, but it is built just like the original.
Have I gotten my moneys worth? Yes and then some.
I've never owned a clone. Never will. I have a collection of authentics which rarely leave the house. I have no desire to 'showboat' them, or be a part of any 'in' crowd. I just enjoy them. I have a couple inexpensive mods which go with me when I'm out. They aren't clones of anything.
Various reasons. All of which pop up in one incarnation of this thread or another.
- Manufacturing in "the West" vs manufacturing in a Special Economic Zone in China. Costs... differ... a... lot!
- Premium grade metals. Not "stainless steel". Or "brass". More like surgical steel or lead-free Naval brass.
- Small scale production (100s) vs large scale production (10.000s)
- Design takes time. Some needs more time than others... and some value their time differently
- Prototyping costs money. Quite a lot of money per unit.
- What better way to make an item "exclusive" by slapping on a bigger price tag than the next guy?
I have no dogs in this fight. I own clones, but mainly use (and prefer) originals. I'm not really trying to defend the high prices. Some charge way too much, in my opinion. Pay it if you feel it's worth it TO YOU. Nor am I trying to knock clones.
I don't think I would ever pay $300+ for any mod. I don't think I've ever paid $200, even. I can't even imagine the kind of features I would want from a $300+ mod. I have no idea. I just know that "being expensive" is not a feature in my books.
Get a Nanos, get a Paps, get a Gus. All great mods. None of them will cost you $200+. Hmm... maybe the Paps X will.
Oh... and... you Reo guys.
(Don't get me wrong. Love you all.)
For your information, there is no such thing as surgical stainless steel. There are grades of steel used for surgical instruments, usually 316 or 440. And material costs in the west price a one foot rod of the highest grade steel for around 50$. The naval brass you refer to, in the west, will fetch a whole 35$ for a six foot length. A big part of the price is the same psychological factor that will let someone pay hundreds or more for a Louis Vuitton purse. And the makers and fabricators know this!
As time goes by my clones are starting to lose its conductivity. My authentic Cronus still hits like the first day. You get what you pay for. As for the REO, I love it ! Honestly, it's the best for mobility.
You are correct. There is no official classification called 'surgical stainless'. There are grades of stainless steel which happen to be used for surgical applications, as well as for other things.
I just have to throw in my +1 for the Reo. Honestly IMO it's exactly what you were looking for in your description. Original mech, excellent quality, fairly priced. I've tried other mechs, the Reo is all I use now.
Prices are generally high for authentics because you are paying for the name, the art, and the materials used. So prestige and appreciation of the art is a big part of the picture. A lot of authentics are put together by hand. Meaning the pieces are hand fitted, so quality control is usually more consistent. Of course, there are crap authentics that simply use the market value as a ploy to make a quick profit, but if you do some research, you'll find out the quality of the mod that you're looking at.
Regarding steels, even the same type of steel can have a different quality grade. So you'll find an authentic made with 316, then a quality clone made of the same steel. What you have to understand is how the steel is treated determines it's quality. Expensive grade steel has been pounded, most of the impurities taken out. Cheaper grades of the same steel are pounded less, there are more impurities in the steel. Tempering is also a huge factor in quality of steel. Proper heat treatment can harden the steel to make it more resilent. I tempered steel is softer, and wears out faster.
I own both authentics and clones. I appreciate them both and use the heck outta both types. I'm not one to buy something and try to keep it looking brand new. So both my $25 clone and $220 authentic have love marks on them
Regarding steels, even the same type of steel can have a different quality grade. So you'll find an authentic made with 316, then a quality clone made of the same steel. What you have to understand is how the steel is treated determines it's quality. Expensive grade steel has been pounded, most of the impurities taken out. Cheaper grades of the same steel are pounded less, there are more impurities in the steel. Tempering is also a huge factor in quality of steel. Proper heat treatment can harden the steel to make it more resilent. I tempered steel is softer, and wears out faster.
I own both authentics and clones. I appreciate them both and use the heck outta both types. I'm not one to buy something and try to keep it looking brand new. So both my $25 clone and $220 authentic have love marks on them
The differences in grades of stainless steel are of little consequence to the end user of a mod. The most common grades of stainless used in mods, RDAs, and RBAs is either 303 or 304. You can't tell the difference between the two by looking at . Tthem. To the guy machining it though, they are very different. 303 is more expensive than 304, but is better for machining, and the quality of the machined end product will generally be better. They are both what are referred to as 18/8 stainless steels. But 303 has 2 ingredients added to it, sulphur and phosphorus, to aid in machineability.
I really don't know what scale someone uses to determine the price they're going to charge for their mech either. I do know that the REO is well worth the price tag attached to it. I don't use anything else.
All authentics have their loyal customers who will gladly pay the asking price; whether it's REO, Nemesis, Provari, GP Paps, etc. I tend to like the Greek mods, and own several. I can't say I exclusively use any one.
It's about whatever makes you happy imho. I paid around $95 for a custom wood mod and I thought that was about right. For me that was expensive, but well worth it to have something that probably no one else has. (the design is available to others but I don't know that anyone else would make the same choice of wood combinations that I did) To me that is more unique than buying a mod identical to others save for the serial number. But that's me. When I smoked I collected cigarette holders, lighters and cases, some very unique and antique, because they made smoking more fun. I think it's the same principle.
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