Why would a new Kamry100 Fire 4-5 times then stop firing any atomizer/cartomizer

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roosterado

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Hi I just got a Kamry 100. I set it up for 18650 put a battery[purple e-fest 20 amp] in from another 18650 VV device and attached my Aqua. It fire and vaped fine 4-5 times then nothing. I checked the battery on my LCD charger and it was at 50% charge. I did a little adjusting of the telescopic tube and got it to fire 1 more time . So While I am charging that 18650 I try 2 fully charged button top 18350 baterries after setting the kamry to 18350 mode. Nothing will fire not even the cartomizer that came with it. Need ideas suggestions from people familiar with the Kamry100.
 

roosterado

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The 18650 Purple e fest is a flat top it fired on that a few times. The 18350 baterries I tried are button to. The 510 connection on the kamry is a solid metal no adjustment. With the 18350 botton top batteries I set the telescopic until I could feel the fire pin hoit the bottom of the battery. The fire switch is a solid metal pin with a small internal spring and then inside the threaded area or well of the switch there is a spring and insulator like most devices with a removable battery have.
 

roosterado

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I under stand perfectly how mech mods works. I have Fat Snow Wolf Black Rose Edition. I love it but its heavy so I ordered the Kamry a light Mech. The Kamry is making battery contact on both ends. I rebuild RTA's RBA's and Gennies. I was asking for help from someone familiar with the Kamry. I think I might have a bad 510 connector. But thanks for your opinion
 

Rickajho

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How do you know contact is actually being made? You need to put a meter to the 510 contact points to check what is happening when you hit the fire switch. I've seen K100's fire spastic when the threads on the tubes and the switch aren't clean. If you just got it, and haven't cleaned the threaded contact points, it still has machining oil and possibly debris that can cause problems.
 

roosterado

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OK Folks I got it to fire My RSST turning out the postive post quite a ways. It seems the 510 threading is bad on the bottom and most of my atomizers even the 510 cartomizers it was designed for will thread down all the way. Luckily I just ordered some Silver-Plated RSST Posts from Ninja Mods to upgrade my RSST's.
 
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xtwosm0kesx

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Bad case of , you have no clue how a Mechanical device works or what goes wrong.

They are actually super simple. Metal parts touching metal parts. Metal parts that are not clean or are adjusted wrong do not contact matal parts and current does not flow.

You ever taken the time to reflect on the fact that about 75% of your posts start by attacking/insulting the OP (whether they deserve it or not).

Just because someone asks a question doesn't automatically make them uninformed.
 

crxess

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I under stand perfectly how mech mods works. I have Fat Snow Wolf Black Rose Edition. I love it but its heavy so I ordered the Kamry a light Mech. The Kamry is making battery contact on both ends. I rebuild RTA's RBA's and Gennies. I was asking for help from someone familiar with the Kamry. I think I might have a bad 510 connector. But thanks for your opinion

You ever taken the time to reflect on the fact that about 75% of your posts start by attacking/insulting the OP (whether they deserve it or not).

Just because someone asks a question doesn't automatically make them uninformed.

Sorry, but maybe you can see the frustration.

You work and work to help out and it just seems to keep getting worse. People don't research first. They don't get familiar with their devices. They purchase products on a whim with no regard for personal safety.

I'll work on chilling a bit. Don't think 75% is a fair assessment, although I have been testy as of late.:(

OP, simple test:
No atomizer attached, Mod gets hot - Mod is defective and dead shorting.
Even if the Switch was hung, the mod should NOT be passing power.(stays cool)

K100 is a Telescoping Mod - Over tightening the Sections will result in auto firing.
I Have a Sigelei Telescoping and they have the same design, down to the switch.

Simple to check -
leave mod loose
Attach atty
insert battery and Batt. Cap
Snug Mod slowly

If it starts firing just back off a bit
This is the correct adjustment of many telescoping mods

510 is a mechanical pin connection.
Outer threading
Insulator
Inner pin
Unless the Insulator is damaged or the Atty 510 threaded section is touching the Pin and Housing, it should not short.

Not firing:
Confirm Good coil - Resistance reading
Most Not firing issues relate to not making contact between the Top device center pin and the Mod center pin.
Some versions of the K100 have a Floating center pin. It can be pushed up and reset to the atty.
There are K100 Clones that have Fixed pins, Non-adjustable.


Hope something here is helpful
 
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roosterado

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1 Checked atty on my ohm meter and on another mod-- all good
2 researched how mechanical mod work before buying before buying my 1st 3 months ago- this is my 3rd
3 checked adjustment of telescope mod -I have another telescoping mod eLEAF iJust I have been using for 2 months
4 cleaned threads and contact points before using mod first time
5 My K100 does Not have a 510 pin adustment

I did the above before posting my question crxess vetran member

About half of my 12 atty's have a long enough positive pin to make contact on my K100. I determined this was the issue by by lengthening the only atty's I have with adjustable positive pin my 2 RSST's

If you had read my post The first atty I tried on my K100[ Aqua] fired 4-5 times then stopped. That is what through me off. After that happened I went trough the 5 steps I listed above to troubleshoot. I also posted my question to see if I had missed anything or anyone on the EFC forum had any ideas=suggestions and was willing to be Helpful. Obviously your priority is not to be helpful but to make assumptions and to criticize IMO
 
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crxess

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You have a multimeter?
This might help.

Set meter to Ohms
Separate K100 tubes
Place 1 lead to inner part of 510 pin in tube
Place 1 lead to outer part of 510 pin on top of tube
Meter should read -0- indicating center pin is good

Test Power through top pin:

Place meter in DC volts position
Slip battery into top tube section
Place black lead to battery bottom(centered)
Place red lead to 510 center pin on top
Meter should display volts

If this reads your top section should be good and the problem may be in the switch.


Said I'd work on my issues. Would also like to help you with yours.
Together we can get the Mod sorted out. :)

EDIT FOR ADDITIONAL INFO -
You say you are trying 18350 batteries
Flat top or Nipple top?
Seems many K100's will only work with Nipple tops in 18350 and the Mod must be excessively tight to make connections reach. This means Flat tops will likely not work at all.
 
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