Why wouldn't I run a kick on a mechanical mod?
- Thread starter realbriguy
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Kicks are designed to be used on mech mods, they aren't suitable for anything else AFAIK!
Unless whoever suggested that to you just doesn't like the kick for some reason?
Unless whoever suggested that to you just doesn't like the kick for some reason?
I am biased....My favorite setup is a mech with a kick. I just like the aesthetics and uniqueness of the mechs. They keep the power output steady throughout as the voltage is depleted in the battery. The only reason you would not want to use one (that I can think of) is if you are going to be using atomizers with a resistance below 1 ohm. (Sub ohm vaping, cloud chasing, etc.) Keep in mind there are a bunch of different Kicks out there. For example the Evolv Kick 2 will fire atomizers .5ohm and above. Whereas the Smok brand kick will only fire 1ohm or higher. Not sure are on the other brands of kicks.
My fave is the kick set to 10 watts and a 1.5 - 1.8 ohm atomizer. (Dripper of course!)
My fave is the kick set to 10 watts and a 1.5 - 1.8 ohm atomizer. (Dripper of course!)
if you were using a low ohm rba.. a kick could hinder performance.. i don't think they will fire sub ohm.. not 100% on that though..
OTOH.. if you like your carto tanks, bcc, etc.. and want to use them on a mech.. a kick is a perfect way to create a consistent good vape on higher ohm atty..
overly simplified.. but it gives you an idea..
OTOH.. if you like your carto tanks, bcc, etc.. and want to use them on a mech.. a kick is a perfect way to create a consistent good vape on higher ohm atty..
overly simplified.. but it gives you an idea..
Correct as above. If your vaping preference is not into the sub ohm category there is no reason not to use a kick. If you are new to mechanical a kick can save you some grief.
Kicks(all available)help prevent battery damage due to over drain.
Kicks help maintain a balanced vape through battery drain.
I have and use 2 (sigelei-K) units and enjoy the consistent results.
Kicks(all available)help prevent battery damage due to over drain.
Kicks help maintain a balanced vape through battery drain.
I have and use 2 (sigelei-K) units and enjoy the consistent results.
I've been using a mech without a kick for several months. I've been building my own coils - trying to find that perfect build that gives an intense vape but maximizes battery life. I've been mostly frustrated. I recently dropped a kick 2 into my mech and am kicking(no pun intended) myself for not doing it sooner. Lets face it - building low res coils is a finicky business. They generate a lot of heat, the airflow must be dialed in and even my best coils are a bit too hot on a fresh battery and a bit too weak by the time the battery hits a3.6-ish.
The kick 2 gives me far greater margin of error in my coils. I basically don't care what the resistance is as long as its between about 1-2.5 ohms. I get a better vape over the life of the battery. The kick 2 is perfect for micro-coils and I find a micro-coil at 15 watts gives me a better vape than subohm ever did.
In short, I'm loving the evolv Kick 2!
The kick 2 gives me far greater margin of error in my coils. I basically don't care what the resistance is as long as its between about 1-2.5 ohms. I get a better vape over the life of the battery. The kick 2 is perfect for micro-coils and I find a micro-coil at 15 watts gives me a better vape than subohm ever did.
In short, I'm loving the evolv Kick 2!
Depends on what you like. I have a kick, I use it, but I also love a mech without the kick. I believe that both things are really good. If you use a mech without a kick, be sure that your battery is suitable for the resistance values that you're attaching to them.
Why wouldn't I run a kick on a mechanical mod?
Since the kick is made for Mechs... This question makes no sense really
Since the kick is made for Mechs... This question makes no sense really
The kick is a great way to make your vape the same from beginning with a fresh battery to the end with an empty battery. It also lets you dial in the power so you get the best vape with the coil you have on it. It has safety features that protect you from over working the battery, shorts and will shut you done before the battery gets too low. All good things. It makes for a great vape with a carto, a clearo or a RBA running above 1.3 ohms.
Using a mechanical mod without a kick means all safety is up to the user. If you build a coil at too low a resistance or put a device on it with too low resistance, you will draw more current than your battery can deliver. It then starts to heat up during use. Get it too hot and it will vent, which is nasty and dangerous. Once it starts venting, there is no stopping it. Shorts can be really bad. Also if you discharge your battery too low is is toast.
The only time the kick will hold you back is when you want to draw more power from the battery than the kick allows. I think the Evolve Kick limits you to 3.5 amps and to about 1 ohm minimum, but don't quote me on those numbers.
Hope this helps.
The Kick 2 can handle 6amps and .5ohms coil. Of course, it will only put around 2.7 volts through such a coil so I wouldn't even bother with one that low. You can still find the original Kick for sale - but I would definitely go with the Kick 2. Where I bought mine from, the Kick 2 was only $5 more than the original Kick.
Just for the OP's understanding . .if you were to remove the kick and run your .5ohm coil, you would be vaping at around 30 watts. To vape at high power like that, you need a decent battery and, in particular, the airflow has to be right for your set-up - otherwise you get a nasty, hot vape with lots of popping and crackling from boiling e-liquid. You'll also want to tailor your juice to such a setup because some liquids taste better at high power than others. I find fruit flavors are horrible at high wattage but flavors like RY4 are nice. And don't forget the nic level . .if you're vaping at 30watts with huge airholes, you're going to want to lower your nic level a lot.
I truly find that with microcoils around 2ohm or so and cotton wicks, I'm getting the best vape experience of my vaping life. The clouds are a bit smaller (not much) but the flavor is a lot better and a whole lot more consistent. I did have some fun and good vapes with sub-ohm, though, but it just got to be too much of a hassle. For me, anyway, lung-hits at 30watts was not an all-day vape kind of thing and it just became annoying to maintain 2 sets of gear and juice.
So, if I were you, I would go ahead and get a kick - and if you want to play with sub-ohm - go ahead and get a dedicated rba for that purpose and, obviously, take the kick out when you use it.
Just for the OP's understanding . .if you were to remove the kick and run your .5ohm coil, you would be vaping at around 30 watts. To vape at high power like that, you need a decent battery and, in particular, the airflow has to be right for your set-up - otherwise you get a nasty, hot vape with lots of popping and crackling from boiling e-liquid. You'll also want to tailor your juice to such a setup because some liquids taste better at high power than others. I find fruit flavors are horrible at high wattage but flavors like RY4 are nice. And don't forget the nic level . .if you're vaping at 30watts with huge airholes, you're going to want to lower your nic level a lot.
I truly find that with microcoils around 2ohm or so and cotton wicks, I'm getting the best vape experience of my vaping life. The clouds are a bit smaller (not much) but the flavor is a lot better and a whole lot more consistent. I did have some fun and good vapes with sub-ohm, though, but it just got to be too much of a hassle. For me, anyway, lung-hits at 30watts was not an all-day vape kind of thing and it just became annoying to maintain 2 sets of gear and juice.
So, if I were you, I would go ahead and get a kick - and if you want to play with sub-ohm - go ahead and get a dedicated rba for that purpose and, obviously, take the kick out when you use it.
The reason I have not used a kick is because I use SLR micro coil builds. Like my chimbus I have a .23 ohm quad coil.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
The purpose of running a kick in a mech is to regulate the voltage. That sounds like a great idea to me unless you need power outside of what the kick can do (sub ohm as discussed above).
The reason to not run a kick in a mech is cost.
$50 Magneto
+ $45 Kick 2
+ $15 18500 batteries x 2
+ $30 charger
+ $6 Noalox
+ $7 Brass polish
= $153 total setup cost
Which is pretty much the same functionality as a VV Ego style battery.
$56 Vision Spinner x 2
+ $7 charger
+ $7 usb to 110 plug
+ $2 paper towles
= $72 total setup cost
I'm playing with my new Gus G22 and a Kick 2. It pleases me to look at it. Does it please me $75 worth? Maybe.
Just making a solid argument to answer the question.
Hanzo.
There are ways around that.
This one is for the Silver Bullet.
SuperTmanufacturing makes a nice one for other PV's.
it depends on the mod. Some, like the Silver Bullet M, have a kick sleeve.
Can you post that setup with the nemesis JaceLi? Maybe I should get a kick 2 and ditch the sub ohm builds
+1 to Bosco, running those sub ohm setups are a pain to maintain and can really trash batteries
I'm a big Kick and Crown fan myself. With these there's just not a reason for me to go sub-ohm given my style of vaping. In fact, I'm more inclined to build higher resistance setups and attempt to steadily maintain the 'lower wattage range' out of a rig.
For general all day vaping I go with regulated setups with long lasting medium resistance 10 amp batteries (Like the 2900mah Panny PF or PD series). Such a setup will last a LONG TIME without a battery change. I'm just NOT much into massive 'lung hits' ... so phat 20+ watt builds aren't something I want or need very often.
Compared to most of the APVs out there right now (price/performance ratio)...I just like the mech tubes' better, as well as the more powerful range of the Evolv Kick 2, or the ease of setting the Crown 2.0 (mods that aren't as easy to get to a Kick).
Occasionally I get in the mood to waste 10mil of some liquid in a few short minutes and build a 20 watt coil without a regulator.
When I'm feeling generous I share vape gear and liquids with friends and family...I'm very reluctant to hand them a mod with IMR batteries and no regulator. I just make sure they are well drilled on making sure things go in the tube in the right direction and order, and tell them NOT to use it without the Kick for a while (kind of like training wheels).
For general all day vaping I go with regulated setups with long lasting medium resistance 10 amp batteries (Like the 2900mah Panny PF or PD series). Such a setup will last a LONG TIME without a battery change. I'm just NOT much into massive 'lung hits' ... so phat 20+ watt builds aren't something I want or need very often.
Compared to most of the APVs out there right now (price/performance ratio)...I just like the mech tubes' better, as well as the more powerful range of the Evolv Kick 2, or the ease of setting the Crown 2.0 (mods that aren't as easy to get to a Kick).
Occasionally I get in the mood to waste 10mil of some liquid in a few short minutes and build a 20 watt coil without a regulator.
When I'm feeling generous I share vape gear and liquids with friends and family...I'm very reluctant to hand them a mod with IMR batteries and no regulator. I just make sure they are well drilled on making sure things go in the tube in the right direction and order, and tell them NOT to use it without the Kick for a while (kind of like training wheels).
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
