Hi - looking online I find big ball, super size , scents and others. I don't know a thing about yarn. Is there a specific size to get in the white by Lily?
wick size
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Hi - looking online I find big ball, super size , scents and others. I don't know a thing about yarn. Is there a specific size to get in the white by Lily?
As for the tightness, I recommend a 5/64 drill bit; it's the biggest size that will sit in those slots on the T3S head, and it will only fit if you use the end of the bit that has the threads; you wiggle it around until the drill bit, with the coil wrapped around it and the ends sticking out the bottom of the head, sits all the way down in those slots, which will put the center of the coil, the open space where the wick goes, at just the right level to be able to thread the wick through once you remove the drill bit. Getting it out of that tight coil and those drill bit threads also requires a bit of wiggling, but it does come out. I use a tiny bit of scotch tape twisted to a point on the end of the silica, and once I can get enough of that point thru the coil, grab it with tweezers or hemos to finish pulling it through; it might pull the coil over to that side of the head, but you can adjust it with a needle or a toothpick once the wick is through, get it back centered in the head.
As I said, I wrap it 7 times, and I make sure with a magnifying glass that I can see 7 wires at the top of the drillbit, before I bother with getting the bit into the coil head. I give it about 3 wraps, grab the first one with my left thumbnail and squish the other two down while pulling tightly on the end in my right hand, give it 2 more, squish down and pull tight, 2 more, squish down and pull tight. If you've flamed the wire before you start this, it stays together better, holds that squished down shape a little better. I don't worry about a "microcoil", having them so there's no space between, I just make sure the total width of the coil fits easily in the width of the head, without touching the inside of the head.
Hope that helps
Andria
Organic is pure hype, it means very little even with edible vegetables, and certainly means nothing in this type of cotton. And we've already determined that he wants to use yarn, not plain cotton balls.
I would recommend the Peaches and Cream yarn which is available at Walmart for just a couple bucks, no shipping needed.
Also -- for drying, all I do is lay it on some paper towel after I remove it from the boiling water, and then wrap the paper towel around it and squeeze, blotting about 90% of the water. After that, air drying doesn't take long, maybe an hour-ish. Usually I do it the night before I'm planning to need it, so by the next morning it's completely dry.
Andria
I would recommend the Peaches and Cream yarn which is available at Walmart for just a couple bucks, no shipping needed.
Also -- for drying, all I do is lay it on some paper towel after I remove it from the boiling water, and then wrap the paper towel around it and squeeze, blotting about 90% of the water. After that, air drying doesn't take long, maybe an hour-ish. Usually I do it the night before I'm planning to need it, so by the next morning it's completely dry.
Andria
Ok, I'll buy that. I find that "Organic" in so many things is quite the gimmick - -no offense to anyone please.
I was looking at Natures Choice Organic Yarn - about the cost of smoked salmon
. I'll go with Peaches and Cream from walmart or whatever they have that is all cotton and cheap.I thought since my past experience in designing tiny heating elements for the medical instrument world this would be a snap - wrong! This is an art and I'm the least artistic person I know. If it is not analytical, quantifiable or an empirical derivative at least - I'm lost. It is really getting under my skin because I am so tired of buying Kanger T3S coils from the local B&M vape shop that then leak the next day or fail to perform.
Ok, got my gripe in - feel better now.
So, I'm set on silica coil wicks and cotton yarn flavor wicks - Until I hear back on ekowool....
Thanks Andria
No prob -- so many have helped me try to get started with this. It's really not difficult, but it does take some learning, some finesse -- with me the problem is that it's an actual physical skill, and all the technical stuff I've ever dealt with is computer stuff, and software; when my up-close vision got so poor, I started leaving the hardware aspects to my husband, if I have some new drive or card or something to install in the computer -- all the software, operating system, internet stuff I've needed to learn, and there's a lot, but it's all *mental*, not physical, and certainly I've never dealt with anything electrical in this kind of intimacy with the "innards" of it -- to me electrical meant "plug in, flip switch." Frankly all this terrified me, for all those reasons, but ditto on the coils; I love the way that brand new coils work and vape, but it's getting quite costly to keep buying new ones all the time. And I hate being so dependent on something I can't maintain -- finally having all these materials, and trying it out for myself, gives me a measure of power that makes me feel a lot better about my new habit/hobby. Now I just have to perfect it, with better materials and LOTS more practice. But at some point pretty soon, I'm going to get one of those RBA tanks, and be able to use that 30ga kanthal I bought -- and maybe cotton even in the coil, since they're a lot bigger, and probably a great deal easier to thread a wick thru.
Andria
Oh, I did find out that we're postponing our plans till Sunday, so I should be able to get started with the new wick material tomorrow and see how it comes out.
Frankly all this terrified me, for all those reasons, but ditto on the coils; I love the way that brand new coils work and vape, but it's getting quite costly to keep buying new ones all the time. And I hate being so dependent on something I can't maintain -- finally having all these materials, and trying it out for myself, gives me a measure of power that makes me feel a lot better about my new habit/hobby. Now I just have to perfect it, with better materials and LOTS more practice. But at some point pretty soon, I'm going to get one of those RBA tanks, and be able to use that 30ga kanthal I bought -- and maybe cotton even in the coil, since they're a lot bigger, and probably a great deal easier to thread a wick thru. Andria
Oh, I did find out that we're postponing our plans till Sunday, so I should be able to get started with the new wick material tomorrow and see how it comes out.
I got mine at Michaels. Plain white, not scented, 100% cotton. Don't have the yarn in front of me so I don't know the size. But the yarn is about 2-3mm diameter.
my two cents..........
I start with a factory coil, when it gums up, I open it up, take out the flavor wicks...... dry burn it clean... then add two strands of cotton, pre-juice them before I close up, and i'm off to the races....... I can do this a few times before I have to rebuild or change the burner....
the two strands of cotton come out of boiled cotton yarn...... if you un-strand it, you end up with 4 strands.......
and on my rebuilds..... I still use 2mm silica inside the coil, and I use two strands cotton for flavor wicks........
it works, doesn't leak, and tastes good
......btw.... talking about a protank mini II coil from kangar
g
I start with a factory coil, when it gums up, I open it up, take out the flavor wicks...... dry burn it clean... then add two strands of cotton, pre-juice them before I close up, and i'm off to the races....... I can do this a few times before I have to rebuild or change the burner....
the two strands of cotton come out of boiled cotton yarn...... if you un-strand it, you end up with 4 strands.......
and on my rebuilds..... I still use 2mm silica inside the coil, and I use two strands cotton for flavor wicks........
it works, doesn't leak, and tastes good
......btw.... talking about a protank mini II coil from kangar
g
totally, totally agree.......100%.......couldn't have said it better myself
...even when I use factory coils........ once they get clogged and I open them up to dry burn...... I leave the silica in the coil,
but add 2 cotton strands to the top.........
and when I build, 2mm silica inside the coil, and 2 cotton strands on top.......
only way to fly!
g
Thanks. Picked up some at walmart - I think it is called peaches & creme - white 100% USA cotton - Made In Canada - 4 Ply (strands I guess) and Worsted (have to look that up).
It looks like it is about 3mm diameter.
Got some peaches and creme. Looks like it will do the job. $1.47.
It seems perfect size for flavor wicks. I can unwrap the 4 twists easily for individual flavor wicks.
I'll have to get it used up pretty quick - my daughter wants to start to crochet.
Now to boiling .
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hmm, would use strands the size to adequately wick the diameter of my coil. cotton, hemp, ramie, something like that.
Dude it's old-school but iclear 30... 16 wicks and it's like 5 bucks to replace the inner coil when it goes bad. Seriously best bang for your buck, great flavor and performs GREAT
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I think I'm going to stop using cotton entirely; all the coils I rebuilt last week, I used cotton for the flavor wick, as described. and then when I started to use the coil, immediately got the burnt, dry-hit taste, and had to rip em back open and replace the cotton with silica. So I hope that 2mm ekowool I ordered comes today, I don't have much 2mm silica left. and yeah, I pre-juiced the wicks sticking out the sides of the head, before putting them into the tank, but got that awful taste anyway.
And with this new Sigelei, I seem to get that burnt taste about 2/3 of the time. I just don't think this Sigelei was made for these small tanks and tiny little coils, it's just too powerful. *sigh* If the fed refund money EVER gets to us, I'm gonna have to break down and get a Kayfun, I reckon.
Andria
And with this new Sigelei, I seem to get that burnt taste about 2/3 of the time. I just don't think this Sigelei was made for these small tanks and tiny little coils, it's just too powerful. *sigh* If the fed refund money EVER gets to us, I'm gonna have to break down and get a Kayfun, I reckon.
Andria
Ok wow, which Sigelei do you have? I finished boiling my cotton yarn and tried it as a secondary flavor wick on top of the 2 existing silica flavor wicks to reduce leaking and it works great for me. Used 2 strands of the yarn , didn't even let it dry fully. Vapes better than before no gurgling or leaking after 2 days - tastes great too.
However, I think I'm going to ditch all 10 or so of my Kanger tanks in favor of a mod drip tip for 2 or so reasons (everyone please be kind : ) ) -
1. The T3S coil has 2 non-resistance wires (legs that actually connect to the tank base electrically) that are soldered to the resistive element made of kanthal resistance wire. Duplicating this is a pain.
I know many wind coils entirely from kanthal and appear to have no problems but in the Kanger and similar tanks even with the NR - no -resistance wire the little rubber/silicone insulator melts a bit. Can't imagine what happens when you don't use NR wire to the insulator over time. Does the insulator melt and do the legs of the Kanthal that go down through the insulator eventually melt through and cause a short or more leaking.
2. I use a 1300 mAH SmokTech battery - not huge but it really can cause the tank bases to get hot as I do chain vape at times. The resistance I like to use in the tanks is 2.2 to 2.5 ohm and so the power is sometimes near 8 watts on a very small 32 gauge 2mm coil. This I have read may cause the PG or VG to become less viscous and tend to leak more - - may be true - I'm not a fluid dynamics physicist - just an electrical engineer. The leaking is a problem that I want eliminate and so this would seem to be working against my goal. I realize that the current capacity of a battery usually has nothing to due with power but it does have a lot to do with it when the regulator circuit sees voltage fall. One of the things that occurs is that in a battery voltage has to fall as the battery discharges over time. When voltage falls from the battery current must increase to compensate or else you have a non-functioning system. This happens under load and I have measured the voltage error on these batteries with regs.. Point, you end up a disproportionate voltage current slope on a 32 gauge wire and it can get really hot (hotter than you would want - way more than 8 watts) as the battery starts to drain. Murder on a little use to be 32 gauge coil.
Last 1. A 32 gauge coil will oxidize (aluminum oxide mainly - pretty good thermal insulator compared to the kanthal alloys) , de-oxidize - cycle repeats over and over until very quickly you have 33 or 34 or 35 gauge wire and the resistance is higher. I have measured a 2.5 ohm coil go to 2.9 after a few days of heavy use. So now leaking again because the heat generated by the coil is reduced and limited by the max voltage/current the battery can supply.
Last 1A. I would rather work with a larger wire gauge that lasts a lot longer and an open atomizer mod with nice screw posts and have all of the flexibility of that.
Oh yes , the Microscopic work on the tiny T3S coils is difficult.
Maybe I'm crazy.
I recently upgraded to an ego c and got a vivi nova tank I want to rebuild the head im buying 32 gauge kanthal for the wiring I need to know what size wick to use on it
Depending on your setup, and if you use cotton, or other materials.
I discovered the biggest part of my problem tonight: for some $#$%& stupid reason, the factory default on this Sigelei was "Mean" instead of "RMS" so it was pumping out a great deal more power than the set voltage or wattage would seem to indicate. Fixed that. I'm still having a little bit of a problem with my Hypertank2, but that's a protank coil, and those are just not as good as the T3S coils, for reasons I don't understand at all; visually they appear almost identical.
I'm not using any NR wire, as I've heard that welded wire can actually introduce tiny metal particles to the vape. I'm not seeing any problems with my insulators, but I'm sure they do wear out, they're really not that large to start with, and all that popping in and out must surely wear them out eventually, nevermind whatever the heat is doing to them. But you can buy those insulators for $6 for a 10-pk, at LightningVapes, so I'd rather have to replace them occasionally than worry about metal fragments.
However I agree wholeheartedly about the microscopic size of these T3S heads and coils; as I said, after I get it wrapped with the number I want, I have to check it with a magnifying glass to be SURE the correct number of wraps is actually there.
But, even when I do eventually go to a "real" rebuildable, I expect I'll keep using the 32ga wire, because of wanting higher resistance, to save amp drain/battery life. Long battery life was the whole reason I wanted a removable battery mod, so it seems stupid for me to use coils that will waste it, with a vape that may be so hot (due to the LR) that I won't even like it.
I still didn't get that ekowool, even today. I contacted Sean at Lightning Vapes to find out if he had any more info than the tracking page, but he didn't; however he did say that if they don't turn up tomorrow, to let him know and he will expedite a replacement order. Now THAT is customer service!!!
Andria
I discovered the biggest part of my problem tonight: for some $#$%& stupid reason, the factory default on this Sigelei was "Mean" instead of "RMS" so it was pumping out a great deal more power than the set voltage or wattage would seem to indicate. Fixed that. I'm still having a little bit of a problem with my Hypertank2, but that's a protank coil, and those are just not as good as the T3S coils, for reasons I don't understand at all; visually they appear almost identical.
I'm not using any NR wire, as I've heard that welded wire can actually introduce tiny metal particles to the vape. I'm not seeing any problems with my insulators, but I'm sure they do wear out, they're really not that large to start with, and all that popping in and out must surely wear them out eventually, nevermind whatever the heat is doing to them. But you can buy those insulators for $6 for a 10-pk, at LightningVapes, so I'd rather have to replace them occasionally than worry about metal fragments.
However I agree wholeheartedly about the microscopic size of these T3S heads and coils; as I said, after I get it wrapped with the number I want, I have to check it with a magnifying glass to be SURE the correct number of wraps is actually there.
But, even when I do eventually go to a "real" rebuildable, I expect I'll keep using the 32ga wire, because of wanting higher resistance, to save amp drain/battery life. Long battery life was the whole reason I wanted a removable battery mod, so it seems stupid for me to use coils that will waste it, with a vape that may be so hot (due to the LR) that I won't even like it.
I still didn't get that ekowool, even today. I contacted Sean at Lightning Vapes to find out if he had any more info than the tracking page, but he didn't; however he did say that if they don't turn up tomorrow, to let him know and he will expedite a replacement order. Now THAT is customer service!!!
Andria
Well, I thought the cotton yarn test was going well - but alas it has turned to bite me. My simple test of using cotton as a secondary/ additional flavor wick to help reduce leaking and flooding is failing as I'm getting that periodic taste of burnt / singed cotton.
Strange thing though - one flavor that was tasting of burnt / singed cotton has stopped for now and one flavor has started to taste terribly of burnt/ singed cotton - no idea why.
So, my idea to add 2 strands of a piece of yarn on top of the existing silica flavor wick looks not so promising. No leaks , gurgling etc... but bad taste from the cotton. Someone at the local BM store stated that cotton balls will resolve the issue - instead of cotton yarn - I don't see how.
I'm guessing that cotton won't work for my Kanger T3S BCC if the yarn can't survive above the silica flavor wicks without burning.
I wonder how so many people are able to use cotton without this burnt taste in mods, plain tanks and so many applications....?
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