Wicking problems with kayfun v5
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Here's a few suggestions to try:
Make sure you're not blocking the juice holes with your wick. The wick should just barely touch the deck and no more.
Tighten up the air flow to create more suction
Add a drop or two of water to the tank to thin the juice
Make sure the juice control is open at least 2 full turns
Make sure you're not blocking the juice holes with your wick. The wick should just barely touch the deck and no more.
Tighten up the air flow to create more suction
Add a drop or two of water to the tank to thin the juice
Make sure the juice control is open at least 2 full turns
Search for Qorax's Tutorial/Review Vid on YouTube for the K5.
He shows and tells how to wick it (as well as other valuable tips & info as always) with no dry-hits or flooding every time.
I have 2 K5s and following his advice & direction, have had Zero Issues and nothing but enjoyable & tasty vapes since day 1.
I vape 80/20 (VG/PG) and open the Juice Control 1.75-2 full turns and they wick great.
He shows and tells how to wick it (as well as other valuable tips & info as always) with no dry-hits or flooding every time.
I have 2 K5s and following his advice & direction, have had Zero Issues and nothing but enjoyable & tasty vapes since day 1.
I vape 80/20 (VG/PG) and open the Juice Control 1.75-2 full turns and they wick great.
spaced coils, fluffy cotton, cut short enough so your wicks just kiss the deck but don't go into the juice channels >=)
The airflow, VG/PG ratios, wicking or even your draw can play into it. If you're coming off using RDAs and allowed yourself to use a lazy draw, a combination off tightening the airflow and drawing harder will help.
Honestly, there's really little to do but pay attention to all those things and a little trial and error before you get it dialed in. Once you do, it'll be second nature.
Oh, and one other big one. Make sure you've cleaned it properly. I don't know what it its about commercial juices, but man most leave a lot of residue compared to the stuff I mix myself. I can keep rewicking and refilling a mod for a month or two and just re-wick once or twice on my juice, with the commercial juices the tank will have needed 3 or 4 thorough cleanings.
To be honest, there are times I revisit old RTAs I find it takes a few builds before I get dialed back into how it behaved.
Honestly, there's really little to do but pay attention to all those things and a little trial and error before you get it dialed in. Once you do, it'll be second nature.
Oh, and one other big one. Make sure you've cleaned it properly. I don't know what it its about commercial juices, but man most leave a lot of residue compared to the stuff I mix myself. I can keep rewicking and refilling a mod for a month or two and just re-wick once or twice on my juice, with the commercial juices the tank will have needed 3 or 4 thorough cleanings.
To be honest, there are times I revisit old RTAs I find it takes a few builds before I get dialed back into how it behaved.
Opening up the juice flow solved my dry hit problems for good on the KF5. On my first tank I missed the part about holding the base and turning the tank and upper atomizer to control juice flow. You feel like you are unscrewing the tank from the base, but you are opening the juice feed up so the juice channels can allow more juice into the chimney.
Yepperz, I vape 65/35 to 80/20 (VG/PG) and find that somewhere between 1.75 & 2 full turns open is "baby-bear" for the KFv5.
No Dry-Hits & No Flooding (knock on Stabilized Wood
).
No Dry-Hits & No Flooding (knock on Stabilized Wood
).
Pretty much what I would say. Qoraxs video did it for me.
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I'm having the same problem, mine are originals, on dna75's, ~400F 3mm SS 430 kgd pads. I get temp protect and sweaty shirt taste.
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Hold the base and turn the tank section counterclockwise a couple of turns. If you get gurgling or flooding crank it back down a little at a time until you find the sweet spot.
Trust me I know how it works, it's pretty much as open as it'll go without the tank coming off. I wish I could get it to gurgle or flood.
btw I'm trimming the wicks so they just barely don't touch the bottom, and also trimming the corners just a bit.
Just curious: How do you manage to finetune the length in such detail without being able to see what's going on down there?
Hmmm,,, At a total loss with this one.
If all is "perfect" with Atty, Build, Wicking, Connection, and the Mod (in all Aspects) and still having those issues....
You need a Priest or a Witch-Doctor and a live Chicken.
If all is "perfect" with Atty, Build, Wicking, Connection, and the Mod (in all Aspects) and still having those issues....
You need a Priest or a Witch-Doctor and a live Chicken.
Im not sure if this helps. I faced the same issue with my kayfun v5 on dry hit despite rewicking multiple times of any methods. Then i try looking on the parts and found that the oring dis-locate and closed the "liquid" flow. I moved it to the right place and never had dry hit with any wicking method.
I measured it, for that length it lines up just a few mils inside the AFC ring. After that I just cut it while looking at it from the side.
Which o ring? I poked a paper clip into the 4 juice channels and they are clear
You should see a gap between the air intake section and the rebuild section of your base. I too had this issue and almost threw mine away after being so used to getting along with it.
In my opinion the tank is extremely forgiving on wicking as long as you aren't extreme in lengths.
In my opinion the tank is extremely forgiving on wicking as long as you aren't extreme in lengths.
Try tightening up the air flow to create more suction. You could also add a drop or two of water to your tank to thin the juice a bit.
The above shows the right position for that oring. however, mine got moved to the lower part blocking the juice flow
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