If someone can convince me not to do so, I may just wait it out and order some 1.7/2.0 single coils to use at 3.7V.
Will a 2ohm DCC work ok at 3.7V?
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You got a point man. I'm new to this, and the only reason I had my mind set on this particular rig was because much of the hype behind the dual coils. Maybe I would be better off using SCs on a lower voltage
I for the life of me don't understand why people use dual coils, too. I guess because that is what Smoktek puts in their new tanks, and then promotes the replacements be more dual coils. But, if you make the switch to single coils, you will see a moderate increase in your battery life and the same if not more vapor production.
I switched out all of my Smoktek dual coils from several of my DCT tanks about 3 weeks ago because I'd get a burnt taste too frequently that I couldn't get rid of and have to replace the carto. I made the switch to the Smoktek single coils and couldn't be happier. Not one carto has given me that burnt taste.
Yeah i did see it. I still was thinking of at least trying it, and making sure the batteries/chamber is nice and cool between toots. On top of that i'm trying to read up on batteries right now.
I have had great luck with dc cartos 2.5-2.0 ohm your gonna want more then 3.7 volts though.I use both boge standard 3.0ohm and xl dc cartos in tank the xl dc are better then xxl boge hands down.
Well I popped em in. This was my first time filling a tank and I was surprised to find I did a pretty good job. Seems to be working ok. Nice and crackly sounds coming from the carto, and its not getting warm at all.... yet. Not a whole lot of vapor atm, maybe it needs to be broken in a little more. This is a 2.5 dc on an SB at 6v.
I must say, this device is a little harsh on my throat. Even when I had just got the silver bullet, doing a direct drip on the atty felt kind of harsh. Is this normal? I was using a normal FIN brand e-cig with a 808 carto before I got this.
The vapor at 6 volts is pretty hot. It was too hot for me to enjoy.
A better alternative for you might be 5 volts. The 4.8v Nimh batteries are far safer to use than stacking 3v batteries, and to me gave a far more tolerable vaping experience. The issue I found with them in my Silver Bullet was a very short battery duration. Initially they would last about 3-4 hours of normal vaping time, but after maybe a dozen recharges, the battery duration dropped drastically to less than 2 hours. Your milage may vary. This was with 3 separate batteries. These batteries also require a dedicated battery charger. 4.8V NiMH 600mah Battery
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It got to a point where I didn't want to use them anymore. Since then I've gotten a Provari and all is well with the world.
A better alternative for you might be 5 volts. The 4.8v Nimh batteries are far safer to use than stacking 3v batteries, and to me gave a far more tolerable vaping experience. The issue I found with them in my Silver Bullet was a very short battery duration. Initially they would last about 3-4 hours of normal vaping time, but after maybe a dozen recharges, the battery duration dropped drastically to less than 2 hours. Your milage may vary. This was with 3 separate batteries. These batteries also require a dedicated battery charger. 4.8V NiMH 600mah Battery
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It got to a point where I didn't want to use them anymore. Since then I've gotten a Provari and all is well with the world.
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Hey Some dude, After reading your thread I have figured out what you are missing.
Ok so you have this spankin new mod, and a pair or 6v batteries with a dual coil tank/carto.
The higher wattage you vape, the more liquid you will heat into vapor and faster.
You effectively will be vaping two 5ohm cartos at the same time........ for a whopping total of 7.2 watts PER COIL......
BUT you will be doubling the volume of vapor output because of the doubling of coil surface in contact with your liquid.
You will also be expecting 2.4amperes of draw from those tiny little batteries. Those tiny rcr batteries typically have a current threshold at or around 3amperes....... and that is straight from the manufacturer site and a few flashlight afficianado sites supports this as well.
Hopefully you have a protected set of batteries, or at minimum a good working knowledge of what could be going on in your mod.
Do you drive your car at 95% everywhere you go? Why does this sound like its something safe to do? Remember you are placing this sealed metal tube near your face and pushing the fire button?
I stack batteries every day in my mod. My batteries exceed the limits at which I can run my mod by 100%. My mod is not a metal sealed tube. I have built in on board fusing for both batteries and the atomizer. If you must vape higher wattage, then do so knowing how to accomplish it as safe as you can. What you are proposing is running your batteries as hard as they will run and honestly I would not suggest that.
Your mod would treat you much better(and be much safer) with a kick, and a large capacity battery, and then also have some manner of adjustment and safety as well. Either way Be safe. Good Luck. Happy Vaping.
Ok so you have this spankin new mod, and a pair or 6v batteries with a dual coil tank/carto.
The higher wattage you vape, the more liquid you will heat into vapor and faster.
You effectively will be vaping two 5ohm cartos at the same time........ for a whopping total of 7.2 watts PER COIL......
BUT you will be doubling the volume of vapor output because of the doubling of coil surface in contact with your liquid.
You will also be expecting 2.4amperes of draw from those tiny little batteries. Those tiny rcr batteries typically have a current threshold at or around 3amperes....... and that is straight from the manufacturer site and a few flashlight afficianado sites supports this as well.
Hopefully you have a protected set of batteries, or at minimum a good working knowledge of what could be going on in your mod.
Do you drive your car at 95% everywhere you go? Why does this sound like its something safe to do? Remember you are placing this sealed metal tube near your face and pushing the fire button?
I stack batteries every day in my mod. My batteries exceed the limits at which I can run my mod by 100%. My mod is not a metal sealed tube. I have built in on board fusing for both batteries and the atomizer. If you must vape higher wattage, then do so knowing how to accomplish it as safe as you can. What you are proposing is running your batteries as hard as they will run and honestly I would not suggest that.
Your mod would treat you much better(and be much safer) with a kick, and a large capacity battery, and then also have some manner of adjustment and safety as well. Either way Be safe. Good Luck. Happy Vaping.
Personally i would too but i was just answering the question since he wanted to use a dcc that the 1.5 would be his best option.
Thanks for all the help guys. I am gonna get that kick. However, I found this description under the product details on the battery manufacturer's website:
"Internal PCM protection prevents under voltage at 2.5V and over voltage at 4.25V"
Tenergy Li-Ion RCR123A 3.0V 900mAh Rechargeable Battery
Is this information of any use for my purposes? Does this classify as a "protected" battery?
"Internal PCM protection prevents under voltage at 2.5V and over voltage at 4.25V"
Tenergy Li-Ion RCR123A 3.0V 900mAh Rechargeable Battery
Is this information of any use for my purposes? Does this classify as a "protected" battery?
Yes it is a protected battery that you have a link to. Now if those are the cells you own then they are SAFER than the older unprotected type batteries. This means that once the battery breaches its low threshold voltage of 2.5volts the pcb will open the circuit causing the battery to stop allowing output. This circuit Should also contain an amperage limit so that if you over draw the batteries capacity(in amperage) it will temporarily clip the circuit open to protect the battery from ABUSE.
Now on a side note..... as the battery drains and the load remains the same(carto) the amperage demand increases exponentially. This will be evident near the lower voltages when vaping, the mod will fire(briefly) and then stop, fire, stop.... until you either charge the battery or trip the amperage hard enough to open the protection circuit permanantly, forcing you to place it in the charger to re-set it.
The second issue is that IF there was a short from the battery body to the body of your mod that is where you have another cause for alarm. A simple clear plastic thick film wrapped around the batteries would make it safer, this way if you do have a knick in one of the battery covers it cant short to the metal inside your mod. This also applies to a single battery .....
Now on a side note..... as the battery drains and the load remains the same(carto) the amperage demand increases exponentially. This will be evident near the lower voltages when vaping, the mod will fire(briefly) and then stop, fire, stop.... until you either charge the battery or trip the amperage hard enough to open the protection circuit permanantly, forcing you to place it in the charger to re-set it.
The second issue is that IF there was a short from the battery body to the body of your mod that is where you have another cause for alarm. A simple clear plastic thick film wrapped around the batteries would make it safer, this way if you do have a knick in one of the battery covers it cant short to the metal inside your mod. This also applies to a single battery .....
Protected batteries can still explode. This is a protected Trustfire 14500 battery that had a thermal catastrophe. It occured while the mod was in a pants pocket which was hanging in my locker at work. I reached for my mod for a quick stealth vape at work and when I felt the mod in the pocket, it was too hot to touch and had expelled a black sooty substance in the pocket. The battery had short circuited and vented by blowing its end caps off. Sorry for the bad pick.
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From what I understand the kick doesn't work so well with dual coils. Am I correct in saying this.
As for your original post, a 2.0 ohm dual coil is really 4.0 ohm if using ohms theory. Which works like this, square the volts and divide by the ohms to get watts. so 3.7 squared is 13.69 divided by 4.0 equals 3.42 watts which IMHO is way too low. You want around 8 watts for a sweet spot plus or minus one for personal tastes and different types of juice. So with 3.7 I would say 1.7 or 1.8 single coil would work well. Check this out for a nice wattage calculator... Sweetspot Vape Heat Calculator v3 | The Vape Break Room
As for your original post, a 2.0 ohm dual coil is really 4.0 ohm if using ohms theory. Which works like this, square the volts and divide by the ohms to get watts. so 3.7 squared is 13.69 divided by 4.0 equals 3.42 watts which IMHO is way too low. You want around 8 watts for a sweet spot plus or minus one for personal tastes and different types of juice. So with 3.7 I would say 1.7 or 1.8 single coil would work well. Check this out for a nice wattage calculator... Sweetspot Vape Heat Calculator v3 | The Vape Break Room
Agreed! Its just less likely with a protected cell than an unprotected cell scavanged from some battery pack and sold to some unsuspecting guy for use in a metal tube at or near its design limits. There is Some manner of protection in a protected cell. Most protected cells fail(from what I have seen) from shorting the barrier strip that runs from one end to the other either against the cell itself or to the casing of the device they are placed in..... Better safe than missing teeth....
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