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No problem. Won't last as long as the HG2's, but they're good batteries.
Even though the LG HG2 is only 20A? What battery do u think is best 4 a single battery mod like my ar 15? I'd like to buy a mech mod that has a good amount of power & is capable of giving good cloud production, could you steer me towards the mech mods that I'm looking for? I'm sure some are better than others but I'd rather get your opinion rather than the opinion of my local vape shop owner. Also, if you don't mind me asking you yet another question, can you answer that same question about RDAs? Right now I tend to stick with RDAs that only require 2 coils max, but are the RDAs where you can build 3 and 4 coils on it better considering what I'm aiming for? I checked out my battery charger to see what kind it was and to see if it could charge at 1A... There was a sticker on the box that it came in that said 1A but if you guys have taught me anything it is not to believe everything I read. So all I know is that on the back of the charger it says "Input: AC 100V-240V. 50/60Hz. Max 150mA. Output: DC 4.2V---650mAh". It only charges 2 batteries at once so I've been looking around for another battery charger that charges more than two batteries at the same time do you know of a good battery charger that can actually charge not just more than two batteries but something that can actually charge more than 1 LG battery at the same time lol? Again thanks for all your help
Two HG2's are perfect for your iStick 100W. The most you'll be pulling from each battery is about 17A. When choosing a battery for a mech it all depends on your coil resistance. What's the lowest resistance you'll be building?
Sorry, can't help you with your mech mod and RDA questions but reading through the posts here at ECF will give you a good idea of what's available. Then you can post questions to the sub forums where you'll get lots of great answers.
For chargers, check out Xtar, Nitecore, and Efest. They can handle 2, 4, or 6 batteries at once depending on which model you get. Your charger seems to charge at 650mA max. That's only 325mA if charging two batteries at once...very safe but very slow.
Sorry, can't help you with your mech mod and RDA questions but reading through the posts here at ECF will give you a good idea of what's available. Then you can post questions to the sub forums where you'll get lots of great answers.
For chargers, check out Xtar, Nitecore, and Efest. They can handle 2, 4, or 6 batteries at once depending on which model you get. Your charger seems to charge at 650mA max. That's only 325mA if charging two batteries at once...very safe but very slow.
I recommend Sony VTC4s in your mechs. That's what I use. They are native 20 amp, but will go to 30 without blowing up, even if this isn't good for them. I use them exclusively, even though Sammy 25Rs or LG HE2s or 4s would be a better choice in my regulated box mods, just because I don't like having different batteries laying around and having to remember which goes where. The LG HB6s are also very high rated, but the capacity at 1500 mAh is miserable. VTC4s are the best compromise I have found. Really, though, I wouldn't coil at .2 with them. Meching is wonderful, but you jever know when you'll get a stuck button or something, forcing your battery into continuous discharge. For me, .3ish is pushing it, I'm more comfortable in the .4 to .5 range .
Okay, to start from the top here.
The LG HG2 yes is only 20amp CDR, but it is 3000mah, thus runs longer between charges so it sacrifices some CDR to achieve the longer run time, not a bad battery like any of the other 20amp CDR batteries out there, Sony VTC5, Samsung 25R, LG HE2/HE4, Sony VTC4, and the HG2 are all solid batteries and will serve well in the iStick100 as well as your AR 15, as long as on the AR you are pulling only 15amps or lower, thus in the 0.4 to 0.6ish ohm range. If you are wanting to run higher amp loads, your choice of batteries are Sony VTC3 (true 30amp CDR, 1600mah, sacrifices mah for more CDR here, hard to find authentics of these atm), next is the Sony VTC4 (20-25-capable of 30amp loads, 2100mah) long time king in this category, and the newer LG HB6 (true 30amp, 1600mah again sacrifices mah for CDR, coolest running battery at very high loads up to 30amps). Now remember, heat is the biggest killer of batteries, push a battery to its limits generates large amounts of internal heat, this heat changes the internal chemistry, much like simmering a stew changes flavor as it simmers and blends, well with batteries, this change of its electrolytes decreases Mah and its C rating (used for determining CDR), decrease these ratings, even just one, your decrease max CDR, and batteries no matter how gentle you are on them do decrease in these ratings over time, but it you push them you degrade them faster. Now because of that, a battery say an Sony VTC4 (2100mah can do 30amps), brand new they are great, for about a month, by that time, the battery is not 2100mah rated, it could be 1900mah and capaple of max 25amps, 6months down the road of hard abuse, it can be then 1100mah, and 15amp max CDR, put that crackling and stupendous cloud making 0.16ohm coil you normally run onto load that battery, 25amps, battery can only do 15amps, battery overheats, goes into thermal runaway, outgasses mod becomes a branding iron, "BOOM" or pops the top cap and shoots out two bottle rockets worst case scenarios, but the last scenario is nill with AR 15 having so many holes, you'll get a nice roman candle display and a foul smelling chemical oozing mess. (Scare tactic, but done intentionally to get you to lock on and pay attention, not to be mean or overly stern sounding, but you do need to understand and grasp electricity is one of the most powerful forces we know, especially when dealing with DC circuits and the power contained in a shell the size of a mini stick of dynamite). Extreme racing, extreme sports, and extreme activity has elevated levels of risk, cloud chasing is at the extreme level of vaping.
2nd- The AR 15 is a decent mech mod, especially with copper contacts as brass, copper, silver, and gold are 4 of the most notably conductive metals lowest to highest in our environment, get out toward Jupiter, gold and silver swap positions on the list. So a brass or copper mod with copper or silver contacts will thump the hardest with the least voltage drop, brass second and still be affordable. Maybe look into a brass King or Chi You (older mods but parts are easy to find) and they are very reliable, on the copper end maybe a Pegasus and several others, just have to research them. The mod IMO pays the lowest difference in cloud production below, VG content, the RDA deck design, then wicking, and coil type/configuration in that order. An extra 0.2 or 0.3 volts hitting the coil is not that big a noticeable difference.
3rd- RDAs. These can help produce more vapor or produce more flavor it all depends, cloud chasing you'll want a large wide deck with 2, 3, maybe 5posts, with very airy airflow, most RDAs like the Vortex and others already come ready for clouding with massive airflow not needing much modification if at all. Coil setups, single coil really good in a small narrow deck/chamber for decent flavor, dual coil is a balanced flavor and clouding config, triple coil best flavor config and excellent cloud production but kills batteries quick, quad coil best cloud production but slaughters battery charge, you'll need 8 batteries most times to get through the day, 4 charging, 4 charged with a quad coil. Next to type of coil and airflow, as I posted before config of the coil dual parallel (equals a quad coil in two coils (4 wires, 2 per coil)) these can be side by side or twisted, lowers resistance forcing you to add more wraps, this increases contact area, each wire pair helps heat itself and its pair wire so they actually ramp up quickly (hint- more wire to wick/juice contact=more liquid vaporized, more liquid vaporizes=more vapor). Another option is look into maybe Nichrome 60 or Nichrome 80 wire, lower resistance than kanthal and fire quicker and hotter than kanthal but is more fragile, you might like the results, two to four more wraps on a coil compared to kanthal, about the same resistance as a kanthal coil of less wraps, see hint above, more wire to wick/juice contact more vapor. So like I posted above, I'd focus on your coil configuration and wicking to allow optimal airflow over and around the coil to get the best vaporizing and vortexing up toward the mouthpiece, an analogy you have to match mother nature in creating the perfect storm and tempest, enough particulate (dust, smoke, and such) to bind to an good mixture of hot "humid" air rapidly mixing with the particulate (e-liquid vaporizing off as steam) and a good amount of cool "humid" air. Look at the RDA deck, post config, top cap and think and envision the actual physics going on inside, how the air flows in from the sides/bottom, through and around the coils/wick, hits posts and walls, and swirls upward out the top.
4th- Chargers. Most chargers that are intelligent chargers, like Nitecores, Xtars, and Efest LUC chargers generally pull 2amps from the wall outlet for a 4bay charger up to 4amps (Efest LUC4 which has a special 2amp on 2 bays feature for like 2 26650 batteries, or 1amp mode on all 4 channels), so what it is set or programmed to pull from the wall outlet it distributes to push into the charge circuit/# of bays. 2amps with 4 bays, 2/4=0.5amps per channel. Nitecores you really can't change their output, so 0.25 to 0.75amps per channel, starting 0.75 and slowly decreases to 0.25 to condition and not stress the batteries overly. Most Xtar chargers you can choose 0.25, 0.5, and 1amp per channel, Efest LUC4 it is 0.5 or 1amp 4 bays, 2amps 2 middle bays (however setting a charger to constant rapid charge of your batteries, see above on heat with batteries, charging is when a battery is at its most dangerous, most high drain batteries can handle 4amp charging, but this heats them up the more force you push back into them, constant rapid charging, stresses them and decreases their overall life) So to not have to wait for a battery to charge, you'll be looking at probably 8 to a dozen batteries to have on hand in rotation, not really good on a battery to pull a battery out of mod and slap it into a charger or pull a freshly charged battery, slap it into your mod and put it under 30amp discharge load, the ions are too unstable at these two times, best to remove from mod, set battery aside to rest and settle 2 to 4hours, put on the charger, pull off charger when full and set aside again 2 to 4 hours, this lets the battery ions to settle down and stablize for optimal performance.
what mod are you using?
an istick 100 ? or is it a 3 battery 180 watt mod?
does it go down to 0.1 ohm?
an istick 100 ? or is it a 3 battery 180 watt mod?
does it go down to 0.1 ohm?
They have an iStick100watt and an AR 15 Mech mod, they're mainly asking about the AR 15 and cloud chasing.
I'm using an istick 100 watts---2 18650 LG he4 batteries. Also using an ar 15 clone mod---1 18650 Sony vtc4 or LG he4
You're correct. Without the Vets we would be speaking either Japanese or German.
Brother there is such a thing as going TOO LOW.
Many mods are only stable to.3 such as the Istick, Coolfire4, Heat Vape.
To get super low they do one of two things.
1. Switch to Nickel wire. Very dangerous in power mode.
2 use a small short section of Kanthal and weld some zero resistance wire on both ends of the coil. Not so sure this is safe at all.
Darn it!!! The owner of the vape shop that I always go to said that I could build coils down to .15 ohms on istick 100W mods... I didn't take his word for it I researched it online and I read the same thing that he told me I guess nobody tells the truth anymore. I got this off of "myvaporstore.com":
"The iStick 100W by Eleaf builds upon the success of the previous iStick devices. Powerful vapor can be generated due to the expanded range of output voltage (2V-10V) / wattage(5W-100W). The iStick 100W features the ability to fire atomizers as low as 0.15 ohm which is perfect for blowing giant clouds and great flavor. It retains the strong spring loaded 510 contact pin and wear-resistant stainless steel threads. The iStick 100W requires (2) high amp 18650 batteries to power this incredible device which can be easily accessed using a powerful dual magnetized battery cover."
To answer your original question, to get down to 0.15 ohms try thicker gauge wire, or else dual coil; you can also twish two wires together - that simulates thicker wire.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
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I still say going super low in ohms is not always a good thing.
Many mods will not Fire that low.
Dangerous on a mech mod because some 18650 batteries CAN'T GO THAT LOW.
You don't need super low ohms to blow clouds.
You primarily need two things to blow clouds.
1. High VG juice.
2. More surface area in the coil.
This is why twisted coils, Clapton coils, parallel coils, and fused Clapton coils were invented
If you take this device and use heavy guage wire and low ohms then you can get vapor BUT-------your lungs can only hold so much vapor and you will have your limits just like the rest of us.........I've used the turbo atomizer with 4 coils and I can't make anymore vapor than my lungs can hold.........If you could get bigger lungs thyen you can get more vapor
just sayin..............You could buy two of these mods and stick both mouth pieces/drip tips---in your mouth at the same time and only get the vapor your lungs will hold and no more....
like the rest of us......
just sayin..............You could buy two of these mods and stick both mouth pieces/drip tips---in your mouth at the same time and only get the vapor your lungs will hold and no more....
like the rest of us......
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Agree. It's not the ohms its the surface area of the coils, and airflow of the atty
I blow decent clouds with a GMini with an ohms rating of .8 ohms tootling along at 15-17.5 watts. My single coil 28 gauge kanthal 7 wraps around the shaft of the little blue screwdriver.
I see no need to potentially turning your mod into a pipe bomb.
Another factor not touched on much when talking cloud chasing with your buddies is actually yourself personally, two vapers with identical setups, vaper 1 is average build and weight, vaper 2 is stocky with a big barrel chest and has more lung capacity, vaper 2 95% of the time will always blow a bigger cloud because they can take in more vapor than vaper1.
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