Wiring A 510 Battery Connector

[jt76542]

Does anyone have a few pics - suggestions on how to solder the positive and negative wires to the TINY LITTLE connectors?

I have tooled thru the how to solder video and understand the concept but haven't been successful in doing the job.

and yes....I know you cab purchase them pre-wired...lol

TIA

 

[breaktru]

You can get it pre-wired at: Prewired 510 Battery Connector, Sealed

 

[Dob_Bobolina]

Does anyone have a few pics - suggestions on how to solder the positive and negative wires to the TINY LITTLE connectors?

I have tooled thru the how to solder video and understand the concept but haven't been successful in doing the job.

and yes....I know you cab purchase them pre-wired...lol

TIA

Soldering can be tricky right off the bat but gets pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Basically what you want to do is heat up the surface of whatever you are trying to solder hot enough to get the solder to melt to it, dont just melt it on the soldering iron and ..... wait.... Do you need help on the concept of soldering or just with this specific object?

 

[Java_Az]

With the battery connectors especially with low powered irons your going to have to heat it up longer before applying the solder. There is a lot more metal in a connector then your typical solder trace so it takes a bit longer. Other then that if you think it is small make it bigger. Get you a lighted magnified glass on a stand.

 

[oldsoldier]

pop the center post out of the connector and lightly scuff it with sandpaper, it will make it easier for the solder to adhere, plus you wont accidentally melt the isolator in the connector if you get it too hot.

Edit: for the negative wire- just solder it to the inside of the body of the connector. some people say flux helps, but I haven't found that to be necessary.

 

[Erwin]

With the battery connectors especially with low powered irons your going to have to heat it up longer before applying the solder. There is a lot more metal in a connector then your typical solder trace so it takes a bit longer. Other then that if you think it is small make it bigger. Get you a lighted magnified glass on a stand.

+1 , also I like to give it a gentle tug after it is cooled down (it will be pretty hot!) to make sure you didn't get a cold joint.

 

[dreams n chains]

How-To Link:

How to Solder a 510 Battery Connector pictures by dreams_n_chains - Photobucket

 

[forthwith]

depending on the type of solder you are using flux may be needed. If you are using rosin core solder, like you use for electronics, you do not need flux. If using much more durable silver solder, you must use flux so the solder on your iron knows where to go, both on the wires and the connector. The flux comes in many varieties as well; paste, tinning, and "self cleaning".. tinning is what you want for electrical connections with brass, copper, aluminum, silver, or a combination. If using steel, you need the "self cleaning" variety, an the paste flux is used with a torch for plumbing. Although silver solder adds a step, it is more accurate as you can direct it with the flux, and not just dribble rosen all over your project.

 

[Skyway]

Never thought of taking the post out of the center. i would be afraid I wouldn't be able to get it back in, lol. I just held the tip of the iron on the post and waited till the solder melts on the post. Its pretty easy after you have done it once or twice.

 

[oldsoldier]

Never thought of taking the post out of the center. i would be afraid I wouldn't be able to get it back in, lol. I just held the tip of the iron on the post and waited till the solder melts on the post. Its pretty easy after you have done it once or twice.

I just use a ballpoint pen and pop it out, I thought about using a small screwdriver but i was afraid that I might gouge the isolator. Either use the fat end of a stick pen or use a clicky pen without extending the filler.

 

[breaktru]

I also seal the underside with hot glue to prevent juice leakage. Have not had any leaks on any of my soldered attys.

 

[horton]

Taking the center post out is the easiest way for me. As mentioned above, if you leave it in place, you run the risk of melting the spacer and having a dead short. I don't know if it is possible to buy replacement spacers.... never have seen them for sale anywhere.
Something that might help is using the "third hand" device. It is a little stand with a bar that had alligator clips mounted on each end. It is infinitely adjustable. Put the center piece in one clip and carefully put the wire you are soldering to it in the other. If you are worried about damaging the wire insulation, you can use a piece of heat shrink tubing slid over the wire to protect it from the teeth of the clip. Once you have both pieces in the third hand, it's a matter of moving the two clips so you have the tinned end of the wire exactly where you want it on the center post. Try to make sure it's as close to the center as possible to make it easier and reduce the chance of damaging the spacer when you go to reinstall it in the connector.
I don't know what I'd do without that handy little device. I find quite a few uses for it when building mods. You can get them on eBay or at flea markets for a couple of bucks. Some even come with a magnifier on them. Very handy to have around your workbench.

 

[fizil]

How-To Link:

How to Solder a 510 Battery Connector pictures by dreams_n_chains - Photobucket

Excellent tutorial DnC!

 

[AttyPops]

Has anyone ever really melted an isolator "doughnut" while soldering an atty center connection in place? Or is this just an old wives' tale we're passing around? Last I knew, they were silicone, or some high-temp material. If you did melt it, were you using a torch or high-watts? (seriously). Maybe some atties are more robust than others.....depending on manufacturer/model.

I ask because: 1) I solder them in-place, never had an issue. 2) I hate putting them back in place...PITA.

+1 on the fill with glue/epoxy. Also, sometimes I slide heat-shrink tube down the center wire over the center connector instead of filling it. (to ensure it stays isolated and can't short.)

 

[CaliVapo]

I soldered the center pin by leaving it in and just filing down the skirt of the batt. connector so that the pin was easily accessible. I didnt know the pin came out though. Trimming is also good if you want a smaller mod.

 

[horton]

I agree in principal with AttyPops, but the parts we are purchasing come from Pacific Rim manufacturers and from my experience they are notorious for lousy QC. I'm sure most connectors are made with high temp. materials, but there is always the outside chance that some lesser quality materials may be used as well. There is enough "mass" to that little center pin that it needs to get pretty darn hot to properly solder the wire to it. I'm going from memory, but I think Kester 245 solder and probably other 63/37 type solders have a melting point around 360 degrees F. Lead free I believe is even higher. If by chance the insulating divider were poor quality, you could end up trashing it if left in place. To me, it makes sense to be safe rather than sorry and remove the center post even though it is a hassle. I've found that the end of a good old Xacto knife fits just right into the conn. You can use it to carefully push the "plug" back in using blunt tweezers from the other side to "tease" it into place. You can also use it to push the center post back in as well once you have the wire soldered to it. Just my two cents for what it's worth.

 

[AttyPops]

I've found that the end of a good old Xacto knife fits just right into the conn. You can use it to carefully push the "plug" back in using blunt tweezers from the other side to "tease" it into place. You can also use it to push the center post back in as well once you have the wire soldered to it. Just my two cents for what it's worth.

Good tip. Sounds like more than 2 cents worth of advice. I'm not saying you shouldn't remove it... only that so far, I've had no problems. Your points are well made and taken.

 

[oldsoldier]

AttyPops, TBH I've never tried to solder the post with it still installed. It just seems to me it is easier to solder while disassembled. It's really not hard to do I just use a clicky type ballpoint pen to pop it out , same thing putting it back in.

 

[horton]

Thanks very much AttyPops..... That's what the forum is all about to me.... sharing ideas, methods, and having fun while doing so. There is more than one way to skin the cat as this thread so aptly demonstrates.
I love being able to share and learn. What started out as a way to improve my health has quickly become a very enjoyable hobby. I hope we have many more threads like this where we can exchange experiences and methods for the betterment of everyone!! Thanks again for your very kind words......

 

[Skyway]

I have never had a problem soldering them while still in and have not run into any problems. I tried removing one once and I do not feel like doing it again. Too much of a pain on the particular project I was working on at the time.