Working out a few issues. Mech/kayfun/igo

[PatThePoltergiest]

Ok, I have a few issues to work out. I feel like this is kind of a novice issue so it goes here!

1) I can not stop snipping my wires when building my drippers. Well, the ones that have holes in the posts anyway. I constantly tighten the screws down too far. Blame it on the man hands or blame it on the man brain that wants to tighten everything like a vise. I either see them getting loose or I snip them off. Driving me nuts. Any tips?

2) I am trying a kayfun clone with the idea that I can build it with a lower ohm and use it on my mech. Sort of like an igo tank. Not working. Low ohms gets me dry hits due to the kayfun not being able to wick the juice fast enough. High ohm leaves me with sub par performance. I don't really see myself using this on my regulated devices because it is so darn big. I wanted a tank that performed similar to my dirppers. Youtube shows guys getting huge clouds from their kayfun on mechs. I cant seem to do it? Tips?

3) Nemesis clone. The switch is always wobbly. I need to extend the screw so far that the switch is too long and it makes it loose its stability. The small pin that keeps everything lined up keeps wanting to fall out when I readjust for different toppers. Again, tips? I still have the spring and not the magnets if that matters.

 

[Crazed trucker]

I have a KFL+ with a .7 build on it. My clouds are very Robust. I use 100% vg tho. It's all about the wicking. Not too much or you'll choke it, and to little it won't feed enough juice to the coil. Coil height off the deck above the air hole is important too. I've noticed the higher/ farther away from hole the more mute the flavor is. Play around with the wicking. And idk wut ratios ur using but every1 on utube is using very high if not 100% vg.

 

[PatThePoltergiest]

I have a KFL+ with a .7 build on it. My clouds are very Robust. I use 100% vg tho. It's all about the wicking. Not too much or you'll choke it, and to little it won't feed enough juice to the coil. Coil height off the deck above the air hole is important too. I've noticed the higher/ farther away from hole the more mute the flavor is. Play around with the wicking. And idk wut ratios ur using but every1 on utube is using very high if not 100% vg.

I am using a 40/60 blend at the moment. How exactly do you play with the wicking? I have tried a single strand of silica, doubled over silica and cotton. Not much difference at all. My protanks beat the pants off the kayfun. Mine is also a KFL+. My best performance so far has been a 2ohm 32ga build. But that is too high for the mech. And my protank with the same build is miles better. Not really the kayfun fan I thought I would be. Seems like that thick high vg mix would wick worse since it has to travel up so far to reach the coil. Ill give it a shot with a higher vg blend tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[*deleon517*]

As you mentioned the lack of performance is all in the builds. For best performance you will want to get your ohm's below 1.5ish. My favorite is right around 1.2 ohm's sometimes lower sometimes higher but that is my usual average.

as for playing with the wicking you will want to make sure it's small enough to slide into the coil with ease but large enough to not just fall out on its own. Keep in mind that wicking like cotton will swell a tad bit you apply your ejuice. So if its already a tight fit adding juice will cause it to swell too much and not allow the juice to get to the coil. Not enough wick will allow certain points of of the coil to not get enough juice which will also give a bad burnt taste. For placement you want the coil to be close enough to the air hole that it gets plenty of fresh air but far enough to where its not blocking it.

For the nemesis wobble its something I have noticed with the cheaper clones. Something I did to fix this was switch the top and bottom pin. My top pin was longer then the bottom one by just a hair and it maked it a little better but the wobble is still there just not as noticeable.

 

[carrielsal]

I built 1.3 ohm micro-coils on my R91%'s and use cotton wicks. Even at 15W I have no problems with wicking. I pull my cotton through until there is tension. I pull the ends up, install the chimney base, then cut the wicks about 1/8-1/4" above the base, then push the ends down on the decks.

 

[Completely Average]

Ok, I have a few issues to work out. I feel like this is kind of a novice issue so it goes here!

1) I can not stop snipping my wires when building my drippers. Well, the ones that have holes in the posts anyway. I constantly tighten the screws down too far. Blame it on the man hands or blame it on the man brain that wants to tighten everything like a vise. I either see them getting loose or I snip them off. Driving me nuts. Any tips?

2) I am trying a kayfun clone with the idea that I can build it with a lower ohm and use it on my mech. Sort of like an igo tank. Not working. Low ohms gets me dry hits due to the kayfun not being able to wick the juice fast enough. High ohm leaves me with sub par performance. I don't really see myself using this on my regulated devices because it is so darn big. I wanted a tank that performed similar to my dirppers. Youtube shows guys getting huge clouds from their kayfun on mechs. I cant seem to do it? Tips?

3) Nemesis clone. The switch is always wobbly. I need to extend the screw so far that the switch is too long and it makes it loose its stability. The small pin that keeps everything lined up keeps wanting to fall out when I readjust for different toppers. Again, tips? I still have the spring and not the magnets if that matters.

1. Stop putting wires through the holes and just wrap them around the screws like you do other RDAs.

2. The Kayfun is rather picky about wicking. Make sure you don't cover the juice channels and make sure you don't use too much wick. I've had no problems getting a wide array of different ohm coils working on a Kayfun, but it took a while to get the wicking right. If you're getting dry hits then odds are you've used too much wicking material.

3. You shouldn't need to extend the screw at all. Quite the opposite, the post in the button should be as tight as possible.

You should put the topper in the top cap first and then tighten that contact pin. Attach it to the body and then insert your battery. Finally make sure the pin in the button is nice and tight and screw the button into place. If that doesn't work then you're probably using flat top batteries that aren't long enough and will need to buy longer pin upgrades from someplace like fatdaddyvapes.

 

[JohnnyBGoode]

For 1) snapping the wires, I personally do no use the holes at all. Just unscrew far enough so you can loop your wires around the screws itself. Once is usually enough already. You can tighten the screw thereafter without much risk of it snapping. Hold the wire and tighten carefully as you might displace your coil while thightening it.

For 3)
You can thighten the bottom screw all the way and still make the battery fit. Try to keep the space for the switch to move as tiny as possible while still allowing it to work. I don't use the extra beauty ring and flat top batteries and all is pretty snug. However also my clone's switch sometimes, although rarely, jams.
Most clone switches are a bit wobly but hey, they usually don't cost much more than 20$.

For 2) .. Experiment , watch more YouTube on builds, get good batteries, play with different sizes of kanthal, try other wick and wick materials. Practice makes perfect

 

[PatThePoltergiest]

For 3)
You can thighten the bottom screw all the way and still make the battery fit. Try to keep the space for the switch to move as tiny as possible while still allowing it to work. I don't use the extra beauty ring and flat top batteries and all is pretty snug.

I found my problem. The beauty ring on mine was really wedged on one of the body sections very tight. I didn't even realize it was on there. The finish is identical. It was a pain to remove but it has really improved the fit.

 

[PatThePoltergiest]

I wonder if it would be possible to fill the bottom cavity in the RDA post and help the snipping issue. If that space were filled somehow, then the screw would be pinching the wire instead of shoving it down and distorting it. I don't really know how one would go about doing that. But, it is an idea.

 

[Dj tank]

1. Stop putting wires through the holes and just wrap them around the screws like you do other RDAs.

2. The Kayfun is rather picky about wicking. Make sure you don't cover the juice channels and make sure you don't use too much wick. I've had no problems getting a wide array of different ohm coils working on a Kayfun, but it took a while to get the wicking right. If you're getting dry hits then odds are you've used too much wicking material.

3. You shouldn't need to extend the screw at all. Quite the opposite, the post in the button should be as tight as possible.

You should put the topper in the top cap first and then tighten that contact pin. Attach it to the body and then insert your battery. Finally make sure the pin in the button is nice and tight and screw the button into place. If that doesn't work then you're probably using flat top batteries that aren't long enough and will need to buy longer pin upgrades from someplace like fatdaddyvapes.

Agree on making sure you aren't putting too much wicking material in. I'm using organic cotton...not silica...and at first I was getting dry hits a lot. I then halfed my wicking material...and followed rip trippers rebuild you tube for the kayfun. If you make your wick exactly like he shows I guarantee you it'll hit perfectly. I just made a sub ohm (.8) this weekend ( first time) and put it on my Kamry with a sony 18650... It's ridiculous how much flavor and vapor I'm getting, wish I'd learned rebuilding 6 months ago.