Zenesis or Genesis Help

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LHatz01

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Feb 19, 2013
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Texas
I'm fairly new to Genesis style atomizers and just not getting that Amazing Vape. I've watched tons of reviews and tutorials and read plenty of posts trying to mimic what I see but with little result. Can anyone help me troubleshoot?
I have a Zenesis Sidewinder, using a thin, hollow, very oxidized wick with a 3/4 wrap of 32 kanthal and Im just not getting much out of it. It appears to be wicking fine and the battery is reading 3.8v. I've already sanded the switch screw somewhat flat to ensure good contact and when dry all the coils light up bright and evenly. But when I fill the tank and press the button I get a better vape from a vivi nova. I know this has to be user error based on the success Ive seen with other vapers and the Sidewinder....
What am I missing?!
 

Baditude

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Apr 8, 2012
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What is the ohm or resistance rating of your wrapped coil? I'm assuming you have a multimeter to check this?

You likely have a short somewhere in the coil.

I'm using an AGA T+ rebuildable. I use a Provari to test it's coils before placing it on my Silver Bullet. The Provari gives me an accurate ohm reading and can "see" shorts that I can't see. If I get an error code from the Provari, I know there's a short even if I can't see it. I fiddle some more with the coil and eventually eliminate the Provari error codes and know that I now have a good coil.

I'm pretty new to this myself. If you aren't aware, there's a sub-forum here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/ that you will be able to post questions in yourself once you get your new member requirement of 5 posts completed.

I don't know which video's you've already watched, but I personally found the demo that Zen did for the ZAP was the most helpful to learn how to find shorts on your coils: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxGfAmIcs70&list=UUZESQZNn5Ue-zZp0Z-UdvpA&index=3
 
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Thrasher

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Oct 28, 2012
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using a thin, hollow, very oxidized wick
What am I missing?
if your not having trouble with the coil then:
roll a thick solid wick using 500 or if not available 400. this should solve most of the vapor vs wicking problems

if the coil area is properly oxidized the touching the tank bit is a myth, if it can short that way it means the coil would be able to short itself out. as most of the time the wicks are touching the sides of the wickhole anyways.

to test if it is a wick issue try tilting the atty horizontal while firing it and see if it puts out more vapor, the old fashion thin straw wicks had to be tilted to work properly.
 
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LHatz01

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Feb 19, 2013
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Texas
Thanks for all the replies. I've been down with a nasty virus for a few days, but have since watched Zen's in depth video (I thought I had seen them all) and gave it another try with much better results.

I've tried a solid wick once but found that it drained my batteries quick and took longer to heat up. Maybe it's time to give them another try. Would it be recommended to remove the insulator to fit a fatter solid wick...?

On a side note, I found also that the SS drip tip I had been using was too long and was touching the positive post. Not sure if this was an issue or not but I sanded it down quite a bit just in case...
 

Stephenst4470

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Feb 5, 2013
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if your not having trouble with the coil then:
roll a thick solid wick using 500 or if not available 400. this should solve most of the vapor vs wicking problems

if the coil area is properly oxidized the touching the tank bit is a myth, if it can short that way it means the coil would be able to short itself out. as most of the time the wicks are touching the sides of the wickhole anyways.

to test if it is a wick issue try tilting the atty horizontal while firing it and see if it puts out more vapor, the old fashion thin straw wicks had to be tilted to work properly.

Make sure that you boil your mesh with dish soap as well, manufacturing oils left on the mesh can seriously inhibit wicking even after oxidation.
 
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