I've had my Zmax V2 for several months now and the well known erratic fire button issues are getting worse by the day. So does anyone know if Smoktech has addressed the problem with the units they are currently selling?
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Thanks. I got the sigelei Zmax V3 telescoping version a couple of days ago. A very nice device. The Smoktech Zmax is now just a backup device I hope I won't need.
Just to report I was able to fix this issue just now!... read here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/smoktech-max-vv-devices/434753-vmax-button-connection-problem.html
My zmax mini hasn't given me a problem. I hope it doesn't, sorry you're having such issues
Yeah just handle it with care... I wanna say they're pretty fragile given the circuit board is not even protected.. it's just sitting in the body, so I can see how one drop would pop it out of its place.
That's awesome! I thought about putting some tough foam cut to size up there to keep it put. For a 70$ device though I shouldn't have to.
I was hoping the Sigelei zmaxes would have fixed the button issue, but I was at a local vape shop the other day, and they had a customer return that was a Sigelei telescopic zmax with the exact same button issue that so many Smoktech Zmax users have.
Considering getting a good working button is hit-or-miss with the smoktech (meaning there ARE good buttoned ST ones) I would guess the Sigelei has the same potential issue.
Maybe having a single button, instead of the 3 buttons of the vamo-style board puts too much stress on the button when the board is moved inside the casing. Just a thought, but it seems the xmax boards have issues with the button regardless of what body they are inside.
My Sigelei telescope is pooched after less than 2 months , the intermittent contact made me buy an Smok SID and this one ROCKS, way better feel on the button and not even one missfire in 3 weeks.
I had the same problem with my Segelei Zmax V3 telescope. I bought my Dad one right after I got mine and he developed the same issue (not the button alignment problem that some have reported).
Both me and my Dad had issues with the button itself firing intermittently. I've since replaced both buttons in our Segelei Zmax V3 telescopes and they now work flawlessly. I suspect a bad batch of buttons or low quality buttons used in some production runs of these.
Anyway, you can see my write-up here on how I fixed mine which includes the part # for the replacement switch ordered from Digikey.
Both me and my Dad had issues with the button itself firing intermittently. I've since replaced both buttons in our Segelei Zmax V3 telescopes and they now work flawlessly. I suspect a bad batch of buttons or low quality buttons used in some production runs of these.
Anyway, you can see my write-up here on how I fixed mine which includes the part # for the replacement switch ordered from Digikey.
I'm a long time Provari user who was looking for a backup. I bought the Segelei Zmax V3 2 or 3 weeks ago and I've been very happy with it.
The first thing I did after reading through the instructions and familiarizing myself with the interface was to set it for RMS and make sure it was set for POWER. Then I turned on the LCD display and set it for BATTERY so I could monitor battery voltage since it has no flashing LED to let me know when to change batteries.
Once a day, sometimes more when I look at the display while vaping to check the battery voltage the LCD is blank and I can't get into the menu with 5 button presses. It still vapes fine, but acts like a mech mod. To get access back to the menu, I have to pull the battery for a few seconds and replace it. Then, it works just like it always did.
I decided to let it initialize at defaults except for setting power to 6 watts and it's doing fine all day today. I'll let it go for a few days with the LCD in default and see if it locks up again. I still have 2 weeks on my 30 day vendor warranty. They replaced my first one for a slanted display.
I like the V3, but QC could stand some improvement. The SS body is great and the features are nice. It's a good companion for my Provari.
The first thing I did after reading through the instructions and familiarizing myself with the interface was to set it for RMS and make sure it was set for POWER. Then I turned on the LCD display and set it for BATTERY so I could monitor battery voltage since it has no flashing LED to let me know when to change batteries.
Once a day, sometimes more when I look at the display while vaping to check the battery voltage the LCD is blank and I can't get into the menu with 5 button presses. It still vapes fine, but acts like a mech mod. To get access back to the menu, I have to pull the battery for a few seconds and replace it. Then, it works just like it always did.
I decided to let it initialize at defaults except for setting power to 6 watts and it's doing fine all day today. I'll let it go for a few days with the LCD in default and see if it locks up again. I still have 2 weeks on my 30 day vendor warranty. They replaced my first one for a slanted display.
I like the V3, but QC could stand some improvement. The SS body is great and the features are nice. It's a good companion for my Provari.
I occasionally have the same problem you've describe with the blank screen while it continues to fire as normal. I suspect it has to do with the somewhat loose threading in the connection between the body and the lower tube. In mine, I can get the lower tube to shift back and forth slightly if I hold each half of the tube in each hand and act like I'm trying to bend the tube in half (gently of course). Segelei may have done that on purpose to make it easier to thread or it could just be an oversight in the manufacturing/threading of the two halves. Whatever the reason, I suspect that on occasion the loose threading breaks contact for a fraction of a second which could be just long enough for the circuitry to "burp" and lose the display. That occasional loss of contact in the threads might be caused (for example) by taking a puff sitting on the couch and then dropping your hand and lightly striking the bottom of the tube against your knee, etc.
I've found that using some Noalox paste on the threads practically eliminates the "blank screen" issue for me by providing better continuity in the threads. When it starts happening to me again, I know it's time to clean the threads up with alcohol and an old toothbrush and re-apply Noalox (especially when the threads get crunchy from the dust and grime sticking to the Noalox over time). You shouldn't be afraid to put a little extra on the threads, just don't go so far overboard that it makes a mess. You can buy a tube of Noalox at Home Depot for 2 or 3 bucks in the electrical isle where they sell the environmental twist-on wire nut connectors. It comes in a small blue and white box. I highly recommend you run out and get some right away. I think you'll be happy with the results.
I've found that using some Noalox paste on the threads practically eliminates the "blank screen" issue for me by providing better continuity in the threads. When it starts happening to me again, I know it's time to clean the threads up with alcohol and an old toothbrush and re-apply Noalox (especially when the threads get crunchy from the dust and grime sticking to the Noalox over time). You shouldn't be afraid to put a little extra on the threads, just don't go so far overboard that it makes a mess. You can buy a tube of Noalox at Home Depot for 2 or 3 bucks in the electrical isle where they sell the environmental twist-on wire nut connectors. It comes in a small blue and white box. I highly recommend you run out and get some right away. I think you'll be happy with the results.
I use Nyogel on my threads and reapply it once a week or so. I have a 2 oz tube, so I'm fixed for life. I'm very familiar with Noalox and used to use it on my job. Noalox is some messy stuff to deal with if you don't have to. Rotating the threads doesn't make a difference when this happens, but removing the battery cap and reinstalling it does. You'd think that the vape quality would confirm that sufficient voltage is being conducted through the threads.
I'll have to run some continuity tests on my tube to see if there is any variance. It's strange the my Provari has no logic issues with its SS tube. SS is SS and the V3 is supposed to be 304 stainless, which has excellent electrical properties. I can run the threads back and forth without completely unscrewing the tube and not cause this. I've tried it on purpose just to see.
http://www.lenntech.com/stainless-steel-304.htm
Electrical properties:
Electrical Resistivity 0.000116 ohm-cm
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Like I mentioned previously, I was guessing that bumping the bottom of the tube and overcoming the spring tension on the threads might be enough to momentarily break thread contact, but I can't say for sure. I haven't been able to reproduce it. I agree that removing power to the device is the only way that I've been able to get the screen to come back. All I can say for sure is that using Noalox on my threads has eliminated the "blank screen" problem for me, so it's likely to be a conductivity issue in the tube. I should also mention that I also use Noalox on the battery cap threads. It can be messy if overdone, but I've become accustomed to using caution when removing the bottom battery cap so I don't get it all over my fingers.
I don't have any experience with the Nyogel, but thanks for the input. I quick Google search on tells me that there are several product lines, most of which only provide lubrication, dampening, and water resistance. A couple product lines are also formulated to improve conductivity for electrical contacts. I suppose that if I were to use Nyogel, I'd want to be sure to use a product line that improves conductivity. Lubricating the threads with a non-conductive paste would seem counter intuitive.
I personally am going to stick with Noalox since it's specifically designed for improving conductivity in threads, whereas Nyogel seems to be designed for electro-mechanical contacts and bearings. My opinion is that the small zinc fragments in the Noalox paste is what really makes it work great on threads. I also know where I can purchase it conveniently for just a few bucks at the Depot. I'm not trying to shoot down the Nyogel, I'm just trying to point out the facts that are important to me personally. If someone prefers using Nyogel over Noalox and it works for them, then by all means. In the end, it's going to come down to personal preference and experience with either product.
I don't have any experience with the Nyogel, but thanks for the input. I quick Google search on tells me that there are several product lines, most of which only provide lubrication, dampening, and water resistance. A couple product lines are also formulated to improve conductivity for electrical contacts. I suppose that if I were to use Nyogel, I'd want to be sure to use a product line that improves conductivity. Lubricating the threads with a non-conductive paste would seem counter intuitive.
I personally am going to stick with Noalox since it's specifically designed for improving conductivity in threads, whereas Nyogel seems to be designed for electro-mechanical contacts and bearings. My opinion is that the small zinc fragments in the Noalox paste is what really makes it work great on threads. I also know where I can purchase it conveniently for just a few bucks at the Depot. I'm not trying to shoot down the Nyogel, I'm just trying to point out the facts that are important to me personally. If someone prefers using Nyogel over Noalox and it works for them, then by all means. In the end, it's going to come down to personal preference and experience with either product.
Noalox is good stuff for areas where you won't be touching. It's great for high current loads where heat and dissimilar metals create resistive conditions like contactors with chrome plated screwdown connections for copper wire (dissimilar metals).
Last night I was having some issues with no vape at times. I went and got my ohm meter and measured resistance between the threaded portions of the tube while I was having problems. I got .1 (point one) ohms from head to battery cap. Where the problem happened to be was between the top cap on the tube and my Kanger Evod. The threads at the atomizer connection were faulty. I could unscrew it a quarter turn and re-tighten it and get a good vape. Later it would misfire and I'd have to do it again. I installed it on my Provari with an adapter (won't screw down far enough without it) and vaped fine for hours. I finally settled on my Protank and the Provari for a while.
I'm still not dissing the V3. I like it and I'm glad I bought it. I'd probably like it even better with a short battery and the tube length shortened by screwing the adjustable end all the way up. But, I like more than an hour or two of vaping on a charge.
The problem I talked about back in this thread where the display would go blank and the V3 would still vape fine seems to be a software glitch if you set the display to show battery voltage when you vape. Once I left it in default mode that didn't happen again.
That's strange. I always set my display for "battery", and the application of Noalox on the threads has remedied my blank display problem (at least until it's time to re-apply it again a few weeks later). In my situation, I wouldn't guess it's a software glitch for that fact alone. Have you given Noalox a try yet? If so, did you continue to get the blank screen problem regardless?
One other thing that comes to mind is removing the spring from the bottom cap and cleaning the inside of the cap as well as the bottom of the spring with alcohol. You might notice some very minor rusting occurring where the spring meets the bottom cap that you can take care of with some steel wool, wire brush, etc. Any oxidation there can obviously be affecting good continuity. I haven't had that specific problem yet, but a friend of mine that owns a Segelei V3 telescopic did.
One other thing that comes to mind is removing the spring from the bottom cap and cleaning the inside of the cap as well as the bottom of the spring with alcohol. You might notice some very minor rusting occurring where the spring meets the bottom cap that you can take care of with some steel wool, wire brush, etc. Any oxidation there can obviously be affecting good continuity. I haven't had that specific problem yet, but a friend of mine that owns a Segelei V3 telescopic did.
I haven't removed the spring. I do that on my Provari just as an infrequent preventive maintenance activity. I have to use needle nose and twist it in reverse to allow the spring to compress into the cutout on the cap.
I may pick up some Noalox. I think I have a large tube in a retrofit kit for AC relay and AC connector pin sockets that experienced heat and high current related failure at work. Since I only measure .1 ohm between tube ends I haven't seen the need yet.
So far, I haven't seen the blank display with good vape again since I started operating my V3 in default power mode. Maybe it's not a configuration glitch and it's just something that happens frequently and then doesn't. Gremlins? Once I started checking tube thread resistance the problem quit. Maybe if I stare at it often the problem will go away.
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LOL, since you brought it up, I'll try staring at mine for a while also. Maybe I can "shame" it into working good 100% of the time.
I have gone through 2 Sigelei ZMAX V3 that developed erratic fire, and changing settings button issues and now the second one has started to do a full reset from Watt mode to Volt mode as if it were just taken out of the box brand new, all settings need to be reset. One is about 6 weeks old and in the junk/parts bin and the other one is 3weeks old and just started the same problems of an erratic button. I just ordered an Itaste to replace the ZMAZ so I have just a fire button and separate setting buttons, I hope this is a fix for my problems.
I started out with the APV's with a SID, it's button started to get hard to press to fire but was not erratic like the ZMAX. I dropped my SID and thats when I bought the ZMAX and was dumb enough to purchase a second one as a replacement thinking I just got a bad one. That on is on me but I believe their is a problem with the ZMAX. I like the Itaste but is it goes bad I will go back to a VV ego battery.
I started out with the APV's with a SID, it's button started to get hard to press to fire but was not erratic like the ZMAX. I dropped my SID and thats when I bought the ZMAX and was dumb enough to purchase a second one as a replacement thinking I just got a bad one. That on is on me but I believe their is a problem with the ZMAX. I like the Itaste but is it goes bad I will go back to a VV ego battery.
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