Zna 30? Any thoughts?

[Jimbeck]

I really like the looks of the Zna 30. Would like to buy one. I currently have a Provari and a Reo. Enjoy them both, but prefer the Provari. The price of a Zna 30, makes it cost prohibitive, since I'm waiting to have the opportunity to buy Provari3. Hoping someone here has owned one of the Zna clones for a while. Would like to get your thoughts? And which clone would be better? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jimbeck]

Does no reply mean nobody knows?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WiηgC¤mmαηdεя]

I have a A-mod ZNA and absolutely love it for its size weight and performance, my wife has been using my previous battery's and is asking for a ZNA for Xmas . The wotofo A-mod is aluminum body with SS battery tube and end caps but is not Z2 threaded like the original, which doesn't personally bother me.
The Robbot ZNA is SS body tube and endcaps and Z2 threaded and from my reading a lot of people like it, but I prefer the lighter weight of the A-mod personaly.

 

[Firecrow]

I really like the looks of the Zna 30. Would like to buy one. I currently have a Provari and a Reo. Enjoy them both, but prefer the Provari. The price of a Zna 30, makes it cost prohibitive, since I'm waiting to have the opportunity to buy Provari3. Hoping someone here has owned one of the Zna clones for a while. Would like to get your thoughts? And which clone would be better? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I own both. There is no comparison, the ZEN ZNA is far superior in most all respects. I got the AMOD off FastTech for $50 on a whim just to compare. Summarizing the differences:

- Finish seems like molded aluminum
- Stainless tube is on par with the ZNA
- AMOD is lighter and the up/down buttons are less recessed than the ZNA. It prefer the AMOD in this respect
- Threading is different but smooth
- Switch is clicky and does not have the range of throw the ZNA has - have to push hard too
- Top cap positive post is too short, even fully extended, made my own - ZNA v1 had this issue too
- Vape - hard to say, I find the ZNA smoother and more accurate. The AMOD continues to work, but feels a little underpowered.

Its like buying a fake rolex. You know its fake - do you care? Thats the question? I appreciate the engineering and finish of the ZNA and the performance of the EVOLV chip is very good compared to anything chinese.

 

[Jimbeck]

I might not be absolutely correct on this, but I think I've heard that one has a cloupor chip, and the other has a Yihi chip. Wasn't one of them problematic?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WiηgC¤mmαηdεя]

The A-mod has the (falsely named) yihi sxa300 chip, I saw on their site that they are releasing a 50 Watt version as well (same chip upgraded ), the new robbot version is supposed to have a in-house chip in it.
I went for the A-mod due to it having buck as well as boost since I usually run my aqua at 9watts and do a dual coil build at 0.8 ohm, without the buck I would be running at around 18 plus watts, which l would find a little high.

 

[MrPlink]

Yihi is quite a few steps above Cloupor and arguably on par with Evolv.
Can't speak for any Zna clones using whichever board though.

Over all I will say the best part of the ZNA is its styling.

If youre running over 20w then an 18500 (or 490) is lacking in longevity.
Sure you can use the 650 extension, but now it looks stupid and the form sucks.

Then there were the top cap debacles.

Style points aside your money is much better spent on a Hana or VS.

 

[jumphour]

I bought an A-mod/Wotofo clone, admittedly for the styling. I'm no expert vaper.....I just use Aspire Nautilus tanks and the like, and I never go over 9 watts. I really love mine. I like the size, and the weight isn't excessive, like my iTaste VTR. I'd buy another. I really hope someone makes a copper or brass tube thatll fit this clone.

 

[rflash]

I own both. There is no comparison, the ZEN ZNA is far superior in most all respects. I got the AMOD off FastTech for $50 on a whim just to compare. Summarizing the differences:

- Finish seems like molded aluminum
- Stainless tube is on par with the ZNA
- AMOD is lighter and the up/down buttons are less recessed than the ZNA. It prefer the AMOD in this respect
- Threading is different but smooth
- Switch is clicky and does not have the range of throw the ZNA has - have to push hard too
- Top cap positive post is too short, even fully extended, made my own - ZNA v1 had this issue too
- Vape - hard to say, I find the ZNA smoother and more accurate. The AMOD continues to work, but feels a little underpowered.

Its like buying a fake rolex. You know its fake - do you care? Thats the question? I appreciate the engineering and finish of the ZNA and the performance of the EVOLV chip is very good compared to anything chinese.

Just curious, how did you make your own posi post? I have an A-Mod that only connects with the Lemo, can't get any Kayfuns to work.

 

[Firecrow]

Just curious, how did you make your own posi post? I have an A-Mod that only connects with the Lemo, can't get any Kayfuns to work.

I simply went to the hardware store and matched the threading with a brass screw. Then I cut and filed it down the the correct size. Probably have lost some accuracy due to resistance, I'm trying to find some copper screws to replace it, but its working for now.

Jay

 

[rflash]

I simply went to the hardware store and matched the threading with a brass screw. Then I cut and filed it down the the correct size. Probably have lost some accuracy due to resistance, I'm trying to find some copper screws to replace it, but its working for now.

Jay

Thanks for the info, I thought about doing that or getting some circuit spacers like they've been talking about on the I-Stick thread.

 

[Jimbeck]

I only have Kayfuns, and drippers. I ordered the mini Kayfun, thinking it would be a better size for the ZNA. Is it not going to fit? What will be the best to put on top of it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rflash]

I only have Kayfuns, and drippers. I ordered the mini Kayfun, thinking it would be a better size for the ZNA. Is it not going to fit? What will be the best to put on top of it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the A-Mod zna and none of my Kayfuns connect, shame because the KF mini looks kinda cool on top. I'm gonna try what Firecrow did, find longer screw.

 

[Firecrow]

I have the A-Mod zna and none of my Kayfuns connect, shame because the KF mini looks kinda cool on top. I'm gonna try what Firecrow did, find longer screw.

Here are the screws I used. The one on the left is fresh and uncut, the one on the right is cut and been used for about a month. Like I said, I don't think brass is ideal, but until I find a copper screw, it will have to do.

I can't believe they F'd up the screw top so badly.

​

 

[Vaperaiser]

Here are the screws I used. The one on the left is fresh and uncut, the one on the right is cut and been used for about a month. Like I said, I don't think brass is ideal, but until I find a copper screw, it will have to do.

I can't believe they F'd up the screw top so badly.

View attachment 388660​

Hi there Firecrow, I found this thread looking to correct a problem. Just got the Amod ZNA30 clone, and cant get it to fire any of my drippers or foggers. It says check atomizer. I was assuming it was a problem with the top copper screw. The question I have is, was it hard to get your original copper screw out of the top cap? I cant get mine to budge. And what did you use to cut the brass screw you have pictured? Would a hacksaw do the job and then file it?

 

[Firecrow]

Hi there Firecrow, I found this thread looking to correct a problem. Just got the Amod ZNA30 clone, and cant get it to fire any of my drippers or foggers. It says check atomizer. I was assuming it was a problem with the top copper screw. The question I have is, was it hard to get your original copper screw out of the top cap? I cant get mine to budge. And what did you use to cut the brass screw you have pictured? Would a hacksaw do the job and then file it?

The screw I got was one of those inner screw into an outer screw. If its that one, you need to undo the screw at the bottom of the cap with the appropriately sized screwdriver. It could be seized. If its in too tight, try something like WD40 to loosen it up - 15 minutes in a quick soak should do it.

 

[folkphys]

Quick note just in case some of us weren't aware:

The top copper contact screw -- the one accessible from above that should make actual contact with your atomizer -- is reverse threaded. So, righty loosey, lefty tighty. Or, clockwise to raise it and counterclockwise to lower it.