3 coils in less than 2 weeks? Is that normal?

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mike3891

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Mar 14, 2014
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So I have a VTR which obviously comes with the iclear 30s. I also bought a ProTank 3 which comes with two coils. So the first day I got the ProTank 3 I of course want to use it. Well the VTR shows the resistance of the tank. The Protank would show 2.1 then 3.4 then 8.4 then 1.9 then 2.7 and so on... Randomly changing everytime I check it. So I read on here that it means the coil is bad. So I throw in the other ProTank coil and it is working ok then starts doing the same thing but not as big of a range as the first coil. So I go back to my iclear 30s and it has been doing the same thing. It starts floating back and forth between the numbers but more of a 1.7-2.1 range. So tonight I go to use it and I'm getting a nasty burnt taste so I check it and it reads 6.4 and I can see the top coil burning orange in the tank. I figure this isn't good so I race to the only open smoke shop at 10 at night. I buy a new 1.5 ohm coil for $5.32 (only 1 pack). I throw it in and it is jumping between 1.7 and 1.8.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this normal? How long are these supposed to be lasting?

Also my protank 3 is leaking out the bottom and seems to be flooding so I clear it then it floods again and I get juice threw the tip in my mouth. Also, when I fire it, I can hear it turn on but not fire (if that makes sense) but then after about 3-5 seconds it will fire and start to burn.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 

mike3891

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Mar 14, 2014
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I haven't experienced that problem, but the favor in my unit sometimes taste burnt, but I let it cool then it works. I saw a video were the guy changed the unit to a single coil. I have the Protain 2 and I love it. I am wanting on the iClear 30s. Should arrive by Thursday.

I've really liked the iclear 30s and had no issues till I swapped it for the protank then I have issues even going back to the iclear. The flavors are ones that I was using and have tasted good. It actually changed while vaping which made me check the resistance on it. Then I noticed the orange/red glow inside the coil when I hit the button.
 

edyle

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Widely varying ohm readings.... I wonder if that's something to do with your vtr....


Anyway those protank coils will gradually leak more and more the longer you use them; I dryburn and rewick after 3 days or so. Sometimes one if I don't like how the coil is performing

those might be dual coils you are using; if one coil in the dual coil has a problem it could be causing the fluctuating ohm readings I suppose.
 

mike3891

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Mar 14, 2014
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Widely varying ohm readings.... I wonder if that's something to do with your vtr....


Anyway those protank coils will gradually leak more and more the longer you use them; I dryburn and rewick after 3 days or so. Sometimes one if I don't like how the coil is performing

those might be dual coils you are using; if one coil in the dual coil has a problem it could be causing the fluctuating ohm readings I suppose.

Yeah both tanks are dual coil but it seems crazy that they don't last that long. I haven't the slightest idea how to "dry burn and rewick" them either. I REALLY hope it's not my VTR... this is my second device and I've only been vaping for about 2 1/2 - 3 weeks. The first one was a cheap piece of garbage so I thought this would be an upgrade.
 

ConConCon

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Mar 26, 2014
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Yeah both tanks are dual coil but it seems crazy that they don't last that long. I haven't the slightest idea how to "dry burn and rewick" them either. I REALLY hope it's not my VTR... this is my second device and I've only been vaping for about 2 1/2 - 3 weeks. The first one was a cheap piece of garbage so I thought this would be an upgrade.

You are not going crazy and no it's not just your VTR. Mine was doing the same thing with my Protank. It is partially an issue with the ohm/resistance checker on the VTR and a majority of the problem is how the protank coil sits in the cup and then screws into the base. The pin that is pushed into the rubber casing of the coil may be pushed in too far and not making a proper connection with the brass connection inside the 510 on the VTR. I have had to pull the pin out a little bit for it to make proper connection. Even with my VTR modded to fit Kayfun's the resistance meter still changes a bit depending on the coil it may change .1 or .2 depending on dual or single coils.
The pin pulled out a little bit helped but honestly it's just a poor design flaw by Kanger that makes this happen. I even tried finding longer rubber insulators to put into the coil unit so that the metal pin sticks out more on the base of the Protank. Try using the extender for a couple hours to see if you have the same problem. Mine did that as well on the extender/adapter piece, but I ended up running mine over with my car, the extender/adapter not my VTR haha.

Anyway sorry for the long post but hope some of the information helped.
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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can you edit the original post and put something "VTR" in the title?
I think people talk about an issue with the vtr having a 'ring' that gives some issues.

and maybe dry out the 510 threadwell that the tank screws into - use a qtip.


I don't use 510 anymore; I use miniprotank bases which are eGo thread because that 510 interface and end up causing a variety of scratchyourheadwonderingwhatswrong kind of problems.
 

mike3891

Senior Member
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Mar 14, 2014
76
17
UT
You are not going crazy and no it's not just your VTR. Mine was doing the same thing with my Protank. It is partially an issue with the ohm/resistance checker on the VTR and a majority of the problem is how the protank coil sits in the cup and then screws into the base. The pin that is pushed into the rubber casing of the coil may be pushed in too far and not making a proper connection with the brass connection inside the 510 on the VTR. I have had to pull the pin out a little bit for it to make proper connection. Even with my VTR modded to fit Kayfun's the resistance meter still changes a bit depending on the coil it may change .1 or .2 depending on dual or single coils.
The pin pulled out a little bit helped but honestly it's just a poor design flaw by Kanger that makes this happen. I even tried finding longer rubber insulators to put into the coil unit so that the metal pin sticks out more on the base of the Protank. Try using the extender for a couple hours to see if you have the same problem. Mine did that as well on the extender/adapter piece, but I ended up running mine over with my car, the extender/adapter not my VTR haha.

Anyway sorry for the long post but hope some of the information helped.

Haha... Ok as long as I'm not the only person. I have the worst luck in the world with everything. Have you found another tank that works well? I was really just looking for a glass tank that can handle liquids that my iclear won't. $30 later... this is a very expensive trial and error hobby. I didn't see anything about this issue with the protank and vtr when I was researching it.
 

mike3891

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 14, 2014
76
17
UT
can you edit the original post and put something "VTR" in the title?
I think people talk about an issue with the vtr having a 'ring' that gives some issues.

and maybe dry out the 510 threadwell that the tank screws into - use a qtip.


I don't use 510 anymore; I use miniprotank bases which are eGo thread because that 510 interface and end up causing a variety of scratchyourheadwonderingwhatswrong kind of problems.

Not sure how to edit it???
 
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