Aga - T2 & Vamo

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jonjay

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Can somebody PLEASE help me, and give me advice.

I have a vamo and a Aga-t2 I purchased at vapefest yesterday. Today I decided to begin to tinker with it. Oxidized my mesh fine, wrapped the coil around the mesh and tested. The Aga-t2 is reading HIGH ohms on 3/2 wraps I tried 4/3 every combo and its giving crazy high ohm readings, and then at times it will show lower (1.5/1.7) readings and another time it will read lO indicating the ohms are too low.

This is driving me crazy, I did some research and I tried to push out the post a little, ensured nothing was touching. What could it be?

I even figured to rule out the mesh, pulling it out and checking the ohms and its doing the same thing. Tried it with silica same thing.

Is this Aga-t2 BAD? is there something else to check/ fix? I'm tight because if it is bad, I purchased at the vapefest, no proof, no reciept no nothing. It was purchased from the OKC vapes booth.

I'm hoping there is just something I'm missing... And before anybody says it's the vamo, or the post on the vamo, it's not, because anything else I put on it reads the ohm's fine. So I ruled out the APV being the problem.

Please help, I'm dying to get this thing working! :/

-Jon
 

Sarje

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I know you don't want to hear about the post on the vamo or the Aga T but...
I had the same problem on a lavatube. The centre post on the Aga and the the positive terminal on the LT weren't making good contact. It caused exactly the same symptoms as you're experiencing - nearly drove me mad! When I sorted the connection it worked like a champ. Same coil running for over a week now and it just keeps getting better with a constant 1.4 - 1.5 ohm reading. Maybe the Aga just doesn't go far enough down the connection threads to make good contact? Maybe try with a 510 connector.
 

realist81

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Feb 21, 2013
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Heyman, i feel your frustration. I also have the aga t2+, you gotta oxidize super well. If you dont then your ohms will change after every adjustment you make to your coil because the oxidation you do have there gets scraped and exposes fresh mesh which grounds out to your coil. I was having the exact same issue and got fed up and bought a IGO-L. After a day or two I went back and gave my AGA another shot and worked great after a few drops of e liquid where the coil was going torching/cooling at least 5 times to be on the safe side. You should actually oxidize the whole mesh because like Sarje says, the center post can make contact to your mesh and short out also.

You can also try the ceramic. You dont have to worry about shorts! on my setup i have 4 wraps on 28awg and bored out the main wick hole to 1/8th. The on the other side where the pouring screw is, i put a 3mm silica wick there and connected that to the top of my ceramic for max wicking. Anyways, just another idea for you.
 

dirtyrigger

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i wouldn't pull at the post on the VAMO. just loosen up the nuts on the aga center post and push the post lower than it would ever have to be, then screw the aga on the vamo, the vamo will push the center pin up, but not too far up, run the nuts back down and you can rule out bad connection between atomizer and mod. if the problem continues then make sure that the nuts/screw holding your positive/negative connections in place are tight, if they are a little loose it could affected the abillity of electrons to flow at a consistant rate.
 

realist81

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More than likely his rubber ring around the center post is broken leading to a short. I googled it after having my problem and it seems a lot of Vamo owners ge this problem eventually when tightening too much. It was a bad design. I just put 3 draps of super glue to layer the sides of the center post on the vamo and it insulated fine and my problem went away.

How long have you had your vamo?
 

dirtyrigger

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that sounds reasonable, but if the aga is the only device having this problem on his vamo then i think the issue would more likely be the aga and how it is contacting the mod... not enough info was provided to rule one way or the other. also, getting a resistance reading of 4 ohms on the described coil lends itself more to a lack of connection, a short circuit is when electricity bypasses the load which will lead to a resistance lower than what it should be.

OP: try different devices on your vamo, cartos, clearos, factory made atties and test to see if they have the same problem with fluctuating resistance, if they do then the connection on the vamo is the issue, if not then the problem is the way the aga is contacting the vamo and/or coil.
 

jonjay

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Thanks guys. This is aggravating. I am going home in a little while from work to go spend my free time conquering this.

I posted in another forum and was told that the ss wick should not be touching the bottom, and should not be too tight in the wick hole (which I don't think it was)

I also cleaned all the parts last night and left them to dry.. Upon inspection nothing looked out of the ordinary.

Every other device I put on the vamo, reads fine, with a constant display of the ohms. Therefore I know it's not the vamo in of itself.

Whats the best method to wrapping the legs around the center post and ground screw? Completely coil the legs around it and tighten, or just put a little piece half coiled and tighten screw? I have been doing only a little under the screw and post, because the screws dont seem to want to tighten all the way if i wrap the legs completely around the posts.

Nevertheless, Later I will post more info, hopefully with good news that I got it all working.
 

jonjay

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Ok, So got home (ate dinner first :)) And took a stab at this...

As soon as I put the pieces together and tried it again, it is measuring stable ohms. However,

I tried a method of not oxidizing the wick, (letting the coils do it) and as soon as I fired, the top coil popped.

Wrapped another one, tried to oxidize the wick, top coil lit and popped.

So then I oxidized the mesh using a flame, wrapped another coil (tonight I started using the drill bit method) Tested the coils, and ohms started jumping all over the place (fidgeted with the screws and center post and seemed to work itself out) Coils burned evenly, bright glow on all loops, inserted my mesh into it. And just the top leg is glowing.. Sure enough pops

So I think I got the erratic ohms all down, i'd say it needed a good wash down, and make for certain these screws are as flush as can be.. But now what is this issue about?

I can only assume it's the mesh ? Any help would be great!
 

vapdivrr

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most of the time a jumping resistance reading is from a bad, or loose connection where your wire is contacting your positive post. you need to really tighten the nuts at the top. as far as the wires popping, this is from a short in your coils. my reccomedations would be 2 things. one is to get some thicker wire, instead of 32g i would go to 30g, this will give you time to prod all the wires and work out the shorts. when making a set-up, you wrap the wires around the wick and before adding juice in the tank you fire the coils dry, by doing this you want to see all the coils on the wick firing up evenly and no hot spots, if you do have a hot spot, you prod the wires around with a tooth pic until the hot spot is worked out, with the 32g wire it doesnt give you time to do this, it just pops, so a thicker wire will give you more time to work out the hot spots. the second reccomendation is to add a very small washer to the positive post, between the top 2 nuts. in the aga the distance between the wick and positive post is a little to far, this will create the infamous hot leg , hot spot, by adding a washer and by attaching the wire under this washer, it brings the distance closer to the wick, eliminating this top hot spot. the washer just adds a little distance, thus making the distance between the wick and positive post a little closer. ace hardware is where you can obtain said washers. e-bay is the best place to buy 30g wire, also if you are ordering 30g wire, you might want to also purchase some 28g wire also. the thicker the wire the better. with the thicker wire you will be able to achieve lower resistances, which is better for genesis atomizers. with your vamo you should try resistances about 1.3 to 1.6 for best results
 

jonjay

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don't want to jinx anything but I think finally, I have this all worked out. It's working perfectly, although the throat hit doesnt seem to be too much like my other attys. It's a silky vape... but tons of it.

I highly doubt I could replicate this again, . what a processsssssssss thank you everybody thus far! I almost offed myself :/

I'm still uncertain as to why the ohm jumpage. But so far, right now its a-ok. I feel like these things are fragile though. One bump i feel the whole thing is going to be knocked out of wack

It's 4/3 32awg reading 1.8 ohms
 
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discooby

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I was in the same boat as you jonjay with my new aga-t2/+ and vamo. I didn’t oxidize the wick and in the process of working out a hotspot (using 30awg) I got a short – vamo read LoΩ. After getting all the hotspots worked out I noticed my ohms jumping all over (after one vape it read 5.0!).

I then cycled through the rms settings (no1 then back to no2) and it seems to stay steady at 1.9 ohms now which was my original reading before putting in the ss mesh wick. Hope this helps (and stays the same for me too!).

-cheers
 

jonjay

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Thanks guys...

AGain I think it's up and running well. The only issue I keep having is once in a blue it seems the top part of the mesh moves a little away from the center post, creating a minor hotspot, after a long drag giving me a little harsh hit towards the end. I have to take the cap off and push it back towards the center and it's good again. Going to figure out how to tighten just that top part to avoid this minor annoyance.

I also noticed, only with the fill hole screw OUT, does it wick properly. I don't like this because I am now real susceptible to spilling.

How do you guys go through the day with this? Work? Im figuring out the best way to walk around/transport this thing without making a mess lol
 

SirSteve

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Mine stays at the house, I use T2's Mt3, carto tanks when not at home. Mine doesn't leak, except for condensation if I lay it down with the air hole at the bottom. E Human has a blog on the AGA +, and I tried to use his method or rolling a solid wick, no straw like hole in the center. Not sure if this is why it doesn't leak, but he states the solid wick doesn't leak for him. Also my wick is now on day 4 and it seems to get better with use. I am sure the more you use this, the better you will get with it, takes time and effort and you seem to be well on the way.

Edit, I have never filled my tank more than half full, and I have the air hole aligned with the wick. So when I lay it down with the air facing up, the wick doesn't come into contact with the juice, so it may not be the solid wick keeping it from leaking after all.
 
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vapdivrr

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Awesome guys. Everything is appreciated. Glad this is working. I actually really like it thus far. Hope to get the kinks evened out over time.

this top leg moving farther away is always an issue with a device that has a far distance between the wick and positive post to start, which the aga has. in other gennys the wick is alot closer to the center post, so if the top of the wick moves away a little it isnt an issue, but with the greater distance of the aga, it does make a difference. you could be vaping and everything is fine, but all of a sudden you will get a harsh taste, this is a hot spot at the top, this is why i had reccomended a very small washer, which will go between the top 2 nuts, and then your wire will connect under the washer, this will take care of this issue completly. also this will happen because of the thinner wire being unstable(32g) this wire will move from expansion & contracting more so then a thicker wire (30g). so if these problems really start to get to you, try both these reccomendations
 
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