Fasttech Private V2 Clone - It Coulda Been a Contender

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Lavaca5

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The only thing worse than buying a totally crappy clone that doesn't work at all is buying one that has the potential for excellence, but falls short due to a couple of easily avoidable crappy features. Such is the Private V2 clone. I will specify that this is the fasttech version, which may or may not be the same PV2 clone available stateside (if there is one - I really don't know).

Let's talk first about some things I really like. This is a very cool looking mod. The ribs and facets on the stainless steel sleeve and caps are better looking than I thought they would be, and the polished copper lip of the switch housing provides a nice contrast in both color and texture. The ribbing is also very grippy, which is especially important in a bottom-firing device. All stainless pieces are beefy and sturdy, and the mod has a nice balance and middle-of-the-road weightiness that feels good in the hand. The threads are excellent - nary a squeak or rough spot on any of the sections.

While we're on the subject of aesthetics, I will also mention that the sleeve bears the Grand Vapor name and logo. They appear to be painted on and easily sanded off, which I will probably do just on principle. There is also a painted serial number and a very lightly etched "GV" on the firing button.

In terms of conductivity, this mod performs surprisingly well. Although my very expensive screw-in meter thingy broke (grrr), the one reading I was able to get showed an out of the box vdrop of .27 on a 1.2 ohm coil - not too shabby, especially considering the plated contacts. More on that in a moment.

The best feature, in my opinion, is the switch, which features a wide firing button and a short, soft throw that is particularly pinky-friendly and fires every single time. It also has a counter-spin locking ring, which is a great feature in general, but it tends to stick a little on this device. At any rate, you don't need it just to set the mod down; even with the incredibly comfortable throw, it will stand on end without firing or wobbling around like a dancing hula girl on the dashboard of your car.

To sum up, it looks good, it works well and it's easy to use - so why am I still unhappy? Let's start with the plated contacts - and this is more of a rant than a critique of this particular device. Why, why, why is China still doing this? As a group, I think we have made our preference for exposed brass abundantly clear, and it serves no purpose - no cost- or performance-related purpose, anyway - to cover up what they know we do want with what they know we don't want. The more it continues to happen, the more it irritates me, even when, as in this case, the plating does not significantly hinder performance.

For those of you like myself, whose psychological well being depends on it, the contacts on this device can be sanded down to brass. Theoretically. If you can get to them. The threading on both caps is unusually deep. Pushing the firing button in will raise the firing pin up high enough to work on, but be aware that it will rotate as you're sanding it. This could either unscrew the pin from the stem of the firing button, or cause it to screw down too far and drop below the level of the insulating washer. Unless the pin comes all the way off, you can reverse either occurrence by pushing the button in and turning it - clockwise if the pin is too loose, counterclockwise if the pin is too low. As for the contact on the top cap, you will have to get creative. I was able to partially remove the plating from the middle of the contact with a file, but could not get the edges for fear of scratching up the o-ring or washer sealing the head. To be honest, although I can't measure it now (grrr), I haven't noticed enough difference in performance before and after to have made it worth all that effort.

The plated contacts are really just an annoyance. A bigger issue is the fact that the brass telescoping tubes are too short and/or the threading on the top cap is too long. The result is that you can't use an 18650 battery without the threads showing - just barely, but they show. Same with an 18500 and a kick. While you can't do anything to make the tubes longer, you may be able to sand down the threading on the top cap enough to make a better fit for the battery. A millimeter would probably be enough, but I have not attempted it yet for fear of buggering up the threads.

As it turns out, you can't use an 18350 with this mod, either. On this point, I have to admit that the product description clearly states that the device "can be powered with 1 18650 battery or 1 18500 battery." I did not read the product description; my belief that I was buying an 18350-capable device was based solely on all the ^&*&%$$%^^ pictures of the device in 18350 mode. My bad.

Fitment is not the issue; the PV2 will certainly telescope down to a size that will accommodate an 18350 battery, as all the ^&*&%$$%^^ pictures so aptly illustrate. The problem is that doing so requires screwing both telescoping tubes all the way into the sleeve, which seals off the only two vent holes on the mod. So let me rephrase: As it turns out, you can't use an 18350 with this mod without the risk of blowing your face off.

Finally, we come to my biggest disappointment with the mod, for which there is no easy fix (for me) and no acceptable Plan B. Taking a cue from the sigelei #20 playbook, the manufacturers of the PV2 have coupled a shallow 510 connection with a non-adjustable center pin. As a result, nothing will flush mount. Every atty I have tried on it leaves a gap wide enough to read my computer screen through. I can sand down plated contacts and I can use 18500 batteries, but I cannot stand that gap.

An adjustable center pin, like brass contacts, should be the minimum standard in all mechanical mods by now, even cheap, Chinese clones, and we all know why they're not. In a month or so, the PV3 will hit the market, and that version will have longer tubes, brass contacts and an adjustable center pin, but it will only be 20mm in diameter or it will have a tapered top cap or there will be some other niggling little something that keeps it from being exactly what we want. We'll buy it, just like we bought the PV1 and the PV2, but we'll grouse and moan until the PV4 comes out, and then we'll buy that, too. It's a self-perpetuating cycle. In the immortal words of Pogo, "we have met the enemy, and he is us."
 
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blowingclouds

Full Member
Apr 16, 2013
57
17
L.A.
The only thing worse than buying a totally crappy clone that doesn't work at all is buying one that has the potential for excellence, but falls short due to a couple of easily avoidable crappy features. Such is the Private V2 clone. I will specify that this is the Fasttech version, which may or may not be the same PV2 clone available stateside (if there is one - I really don't know).

Let's talk first about some things I really like. This is a very cool looking mod. The ribs and facets on the stainless steel sleeve and caps are better looking than I thought they would be, and the polished copper lip of the switch housing provides a nice contrast in both color and texture. The ribbing is also very grippy, which is especially important in a bottom-firing device. All stainless pieces are beefy and sturdy, and the mod has a nice balance and middle-of-the-road weightiness that feels good in the hand. The threads are excellent - nary a squeak or rough spot on any of the sections.

While we're on the subject of aesthetics, I will also mention that the sleeve bears the Grand Vapor name and logo. They appear to be painted on and easily sanded off, which I will probably do just on principle. There is also a painted serial number and a very lightly etched "GV" on the firing button.

In terms of conductivity, this mod performs surprisingly well. Although my very expensive screw-in meter thingy broke (grrr), the one reading I was able to get showed an out of the box vdrop of .27 on a 1.2 ohm coil - not too shabby, especially considering the plated contacts. More on that in a moment.

The best feature, in my opinion, is the switch, which features a wide firing button and a short, soft throw that is particularly pinky-friendly and fires every single time. It also has a counter-spin locking ring, which is a great feature in general, but it tends to stick a little on this device. At any rate, you don't need it just to set the mod down; even with the incredibly comfortable throw, it will stand on end without firing or wobbling around like a dancing hula girl on the dashboard of your car.

To sum up, it looks good, it works well and it's easy to use - so why am I still unhappy? Let's start with the plated contacts - and this is more of a rant than a critique of this particular device. Why, why, why is China still doing this? As a group, I think we have made our preference for exposed brass abundantly clear, and it serves no purpose - no cost- or performance-related purpose, anyway - to cover up what they know we do want with what they know we don't want. The more it continues to happen, the more it irritates me, even when, as in this case, the plating does not significantly hinder performance.

For those of you like myself, whose psychological well being depends on it, the contacts on this device can be sanded down to brass. Theoretically. If you can get to them. The threading on both caps is unusually deep. Pushing the firing button in will raise the firing pin up high enough to work on, but be aware that it will rotate as you're sanding it. This could either unscrew the pin from the stem of the firing button, or cause it to screw down too far and drop below the level of the insulating washer. Unless the pin comes all the way off, you can reverse either occurrence by pushing the button in and turning it - clockwise if the pin is too loose, counterclockwise if the pin is too low. As for the contact on the top cap, you will have to get creative. I was able to partially remove the plating from the middle of the contact with a file, but could not get the edges for fear of scratching up the o-ring or washer sealing the head. To be honest, although I can't measure it now (grrr), I haven't noticed enough difference in performance before and after to have made it worth all that effort.

The plated contacts are really just an annoyance. A bigger issue is the fact that the brass telescoping tubes are too short and/or the threading on the top cap is too long. The result is that you can't use an 18650 battery without the threads showing - just barely, but they show. Same with an 18500 and a kick. While you can't do anything to make the tubes longer, you may be able to sand down the threading on the top cap enough to make a better fit for the battery. A millimeter would probably be enough, but I have not attempted it yet for fear of buggering up the threads.

As it turns out, you can't use an 18350 with this mod, either. On this point, I have to admit that the product description clearly states that the device "can be powered with 1 18650 battery or 1 18500 battery." I did not read the product description; my belief that I was buying an 18350-capable device was based solely on all the ^&*&%$$%^^ pictures of the device in 18350 mode. My bad.

Fitment is not the issue; the PV2 will certainly telescope down to a size that will accommodate an 18350 battery, as all the ^&*&%$$%^^ pictures so aptly illustrate. The problem is that doing so requires screwing both telescoping tubes all the way into the sleeve, which seals off the only two vent holes on the mod. So let me rephrase: As it turns out, you can't use an 18350 with this mod without the risk of blowing your face off.

Finally, we come to my biggest disappointment with the mod, for which there is no easy fix (for me) and no acceptable Plan B. Taking a cue from the Sigelei #20 playbook, the manufacturers of the PV2 have coupled a shallow 510 connection with a non-adjustable center pin. As a result, nothing will flush mount. Every atty I have tried on it leaves a gap wide enough to read my computer screen through. I can sand down plated contacts and I can use 18500 batteries, but I cannot stand that gap.

An adjustable center pin, like brass contacts, should be the minimum standard in all mechanical mods by now, even cheap, Chinese clones, and we all know why they're not. In a month or so, the PV3 will hit the market, and that version will have longer tubes, brass contacts and an adjustable center pin, but it will only be 20mm in diameter or it will have a tapered top cap or there will be some other niggling little something that keeps it from being exactly what we want. We'll buy it, just like we bought the PV1 and the PV2, but we'll grouse and moan until the PV4 comes out, and then we'll buy that, too. It's a self-perpetuating cycle. In the immortal words of Pogo, "we have met the enemy, and he is us."

Just to let you know I have the same PV2. Depending on which version you have alu or stainless, The Center pin is adjustable my atomizer does sit flush, its just a PITA to adjust but all I did was screw it down with my atomizer instead using a screwdriver to pry it out. The center pin is fitted on very very tight. If you have the stainless steel version the pin sits very flush and is harder to adjust, but just screw in your atomizer down and it will move, plus screwing it down will possibly strip the treads on the alu version but should work fine with stainless. Now I do admit some of my other atomizers don't have a long enough post to reach the center pin to make connection which kind of sucks. If that is your only gripe about this mod then you are able to fix it. Otherwise the stainless steel version is the best version of the PV2. I have the alu version which strip the treads easily but its fine once I screw it down it doesn't move.
For the price you paid for this regardless if its a clone. It's pretty much unbeatable as a beater mod.
I compared the real Pv2 to the stainless clone and they are pretty much identical except the stainless doesn't perform as good as the real pv2. My alu pv2 clone has the best performance out of the 3.

Can't complain too much as the new clones are performing close to better than the original. Oh vent holes on the alu version is missing, but on the stainless version its there. If people wanted a real pv2 they should just pay 165-180 for it. But my private outperforms the real deal. Brass pins vs plated silver copper and brass wins in this case plus alu conducts better than brass or stainless.

I'm tired of people complaining so much about clones. You paid for something you know that isn't made top notch even with original
products they all have flaws. But a lot of people expect clones to be perfect and critique them like they should be when the fact is YOU ARE PAYING FOR A REPLICA! Find one that is right for you or just buy the original and complain about that one too. This is not geared toward the OP personally but to everyone out there who has issues. Similar to the chi-clones those are probably as close as a 1:1 version of an original as you can get, yet people still knock it. C'mon you paid 1/4 or less of the price for a clone. Just be happy it vapes real good or even better. Also learn how to use mechanical's before you get into it. All mech's require maintenence.

Yes they will come out with newer clones, but they will not release a PV3 anytime soon. If you want to use it in 18350 mode get a real PV2. or just pop in batteries that fit. This topic of clones has been beaten around to death. It doesn't affect the people who produce the originals because they are still going to sell their product when and if they produce enough and people will still buy it. There is a market for everyone. I look at it like this, If you sport a rolex your not going to buy a casio even if it says rolex on it. If casio made a rolex look a like that has all the same movements(of course this wont happen)

Vape stuff isn't patented So people who make hate on clones should patent original stuff for them so they can argue about it all they want. :2c:
 

WarHawk-AVG

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
3,370
4,397
H-Town
first of...nice review...one issue though

3129307969_dcd291490d.jpg


Honestly...complaining about QC from China and on a rig that ran you $12.71 is kinda silly

but still...if it's vaping and just has a few "cosmetic" snafu's that someone wouldn't see without getting up close and personal well...I would be happier than a camel on Wednesday

geico_happier_than_camel.jpg

What, WHAT!!!!!??? :p

P.S. That shiny little rig is spiffy!!!!!!!!!!!

Testing my HTML image redirecting (digging thru the source code skills)
1423000-3.jpg
 
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Lavaca5

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Verified Member
OK, maybe the "we have met the enemy" part was a little over the top. By that point, I was really just trying to wrap it up already. I'm not hating on clones - they're pretty much all I have and that's by choice. There is much to love about the PV2 and I tried to express that, but that's the very thing that makes the faults so disappointing. It could so easily have been excellent rather than adequate. I don't expect fine craftsmanship from a $20 mod, but the problems I pointed out are not quality control issues; they're design issues. They're easily be remedied, and will be in the next version or the one after that - not because it takes that long to discover or address them, but because we'll buy the next version and the one after that regardless. There's not much incentive to get it right the first time. I don't think it's unreasonable to expect a demonstrated and increasingly commonplace level of quality and consistency from China, and I don't believe they are immune to our expectations.
 

Vapeaddikt

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May 29, 2013
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Southern Cloud Cartel Arlington, TX
I scanned but did not read all of it....just saying its too long of an original post. Much like conversations with most people you simply start to loose real interest after a few minutes.

Summarize with to the point critical issues you see. In the end like it or not its pretty much all 99% of people are interested in seeing.

In either case for the price paid my expectation is not overwhelmingly high of most of these mods. If I have to mod it a bit I do considering what I paid if I am happy w/ it I buy the real one. If I hate it I throw it away or give it away considering I spend more on a tank of gas than most of these mods cost anyways.
 

crxess

Grumpy Ole Man
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Sep 20, 2012
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Sorry, but to me this is a total nit pick.
Purchasing a cheap mod and expecting a duplicate of the original is asking for total disappointment. Expecting things to be exactly as you want them to be while cutting financial corners and not contracting for specifics will always lead to a short fall.

When an Item like this is purchased, it should be looked at in a logical manor.
I like the general design of this and believe I may be able to make it into a very special device with minimal effort and expense.
I like the Idea of having a cheap copy of an original and am happy to accept the short falls.

Sorry, I just can't keep this up. No way I can waste as many key strokes.:laugh:
 

blowingclouds

Full Member
Apr 16, 2013
57
17
L.A.
How do you figure that? Copper and silver are more conductive than brass.

Well in this particular case. My PV2 clone has more conductivity than the real PV2. Tested it and all, it was quite impressive.
There are other variables such as the dirtiness of the mod, oxidation of the copper,and so forth. Brass with alu. aka sentinel
is probably one of the best pinoy mods I owned. That is silver plated brass. But what surprises me is how well the clone does
for the price vs the read deal.

I wasn't expecting such good results. i.e. fresh batt same atty on both mods. .9 ohm coil rsst aw batt. I tested
it on my sentinel and clone PV2. my sentinel at the time was dirty so the voltage drop was higher but after i cleaned it up. It went
from a 3.75 vdrop off 4.18 batt to a 3.97 vdrop. My PV2 was consistent at 3.93-3.97. This kind of performance if you've ever tested
other high end devices is just amazing. So silver plated brass vs solid brass depending on the entire mod itself. Remember that aluminum body actually conducts better than brass body. So its not all in contacts. Its the whole mod itself.

I'm not saying silver isn't better all I'm saying in this case silver loses to brass pins. I wanted to plate my brass contacts but since their
is negligible difference its not worth it.

Too those lazy people who don't want to read, you might learn something if you read. That's why we are all on this forum is to learn things. Skip the part you don't want to hear and read in between the lines and you will be surprise how many people have useful information that will help you solve your issues. Or share with others the knowledge you know and enlighten them.
 

the4thpower3

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Mar 30, 2010
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Northern Virginia
Geez. Never seen such a rant due to a $20 mech clone.

Damn those silver plated pins. I wonder why the modders
charging $200+ for their mechs do that?? They charge how much just for silver plated pins?
$20 - no.
I can buy a ss/brass/copper mod with silver plated contacts for the same price.

Like jonayran mentioned, the 510 center pin is floating - it's just tight (doesn't float easily does it?)
I wonder what you'd do if you bought a $200+ high end mod that didn't have an adjustable pin.

18350 - it doesn't state that it can be used in the product description; but you figured that out
after you blew the whopping $20.

Why don't you forget about sanding your contacts, get your atty screwed on flush, and maybe use a
magnetic battery spacer to use it in 18350 (you might not even need the spacer if you get your atty flush).

Of all the wrong things you are ranting about, you forgot to mention the only issue I've had with
all my GV clones - the firing button loosens up on its own.
Nothing a little thread lock wouldn't resolve though.

So, hopefully we've ironed out all the issues with one of the best $20 mech devices you can buy.
Smile. And Enjoy.
 

blowingclouds

Full Member
Apr 16, 2013
57
17
L.A.
Geez. Never seen such a rant due to a $20 mech clone.

Damn those silver plated pins. I wonder why the modders
charging $200+ for their mechs do that?? They charge how much just for silver plated pins?
$20 - no.
I can buy a ss/brass/copper mod with silver plated contacts for the same price.

Like jonayran mentioned, the 510 center pin is floating - it's just tight (doesn't float easily does it?)
I wonder what you'd do if you bought a $200+ high end mod that didn't have an adjustable pin.

18350 - it doesn't state that it can be used in the product description; but you figured that out
after you blew the whopping $20.

Why don't you forget about sanding your contacts, get your atty screwed on flush, and maybe use a
magnetic battery spacer to use it in 18350 (you might not even need the spacer if you get your atty flush).

Of all the wrong things you are ranting about, you forgot to mention the only issue I've had with
all my GV clones - the firing button loosens up on its own.
Nothing a little thread lock wouldn't resolve though.

So, hopefully we've ironed out all the issues with one of the best $20 mech devices you can buy.
Smile. And Enjoy.

I can say that the Original GV sentinel and private buttons come loose after use also. This is a design issue or spring issue that plagues both clones and OG. Long live the clones!!!hoo-rahh......Just tested my PV2 again tonight all i can say..its the best performing
clone period. I really want a ehpro ea mod to test as it supposedly has .05 voltage drop or nothing at all.But everybody has different results so i need to find out for myself. But I can really tell you PV2 beats out 95% of any original mod tested. If it ever breaks i'll buy another one without having to cry about it.:thumbs:
 

Lavaca5

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ECF Veteran
Verified Member
FWIW, I found a way to be completely satisfied - even delighted - with this mod. I replaced the top cap with this ...

IMGP0484.jpg


... and got this:

Hybrid.jpg


I had followed Nurzrachit's excellent tutorial to make a converted AGA-T + AGA-T2 "Cheebrid" atomizer several months back, but had never used it (the pic was taken before I finished it). Turns out it fits perfectly on the Private V2 tube, so now I have a hybrid that looks cool and performs beautifully. Do I take back my "rant"? Nah - where's the sport in that? ;)
 
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