JD Mods Stingray- CLONE
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My delrin screws in until one thread is barely showing.
If the delrin isn't screwed all the way in when you screw the switch into the mod it would self fire.
It looks to me like this is what's happening to you, grab that white delrin with pliers and screw it in further.. It's hard to do but it will go in.
If the delrin isn't screwed all the way in when you screw the switch into the mod it would self fire.
It looks to me like this is what's happening to you, grab that white delrin with pliers and screw it in further.. It's hard to do but it will go in.
My switch looks just like yours Woody, though I have the infinite version. I wonder if your tube is too short? You could compare against someone whose SR is from the same vendor/manufacturer. On my infinite, the 18650 tube is a tiny bit too long so shows a lot of copper threading. I have a replacement ext. tube that's supposed to be the correct length, and I'm hoping it doesn't cause your issues.
I hope you get it resolved as they can be very nice mods!
Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
I hope you get it resolved as they can be very nice mods!
Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
look at how much the magnet is sticking out above the head of the head of the screw in the picture below compared to the picture above.
I the top picture it is flush with the head of screw
And just too make sure these two pieces, upper and lower contacts, when touching together it fires. whatever gap between them determines the throw of the switch.
Now on mine, I have three, when the switch was screwed in tight against the battery the button would tend to stick in fire position or stick will pressing in and misfiring and very clicky. Here is what I did to all three as seen in this post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...6-jd-mods-stingray-clone-55.html#post13131834
The one with the ss tube needed it the least but I did this to all mine, they all are working nice now.
The sharp edge on the inside edge of the button digs into the outside of the battery tube due to the excess wobble of the switch, there just wasn't enough clearance there till I made some.
The one with the ss tube needed it the least but I did this to all mine, they all are working nice now.
The sharp edge on the inside edge of the button digs into the outside of the battery tube due to the excess wobble of the switch, there just wasn't enough clearance there till I made some.
All the SR clones I've received has been outstanding. Would like to share if y'all don't mind.
SS on Fogger V4
Brass Polished up on Kraken
On the Igo W6
SS on Fogger V4
Brass Polished up on Kraken
On the Igo W6
I received my Infinite Brass SR a few days ago and the button was giving me some issues, I may try the above method as well but I found that swapping the small dowel pin in my nemesis clone switch into the SR switch solved pretty much all the issues I was having (along with a good cleaning and polishing of switch parts). The pin in the nemesis switch is longer and fits the SR switch perfectly. This all but eliminated any crunchiness and I no longer have to hit the switch DEAD CENTER in order for it to push and fire.
My stingray switch doesn't autofire when sat down without being locked like my nemesis which is why I was reluctant to use the nemesis switch on the stingray. FWIW I put the SR pin into my nemesis switch and couldn't tell a difference.
Obligatory photo (18490 mode + EHpro KFL+ with nano kit):
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I have the infinite brass clone of the stingray and have been unable to make my evolv kick with an 18650 using all extension tubes. The closest I can get to making it fit has several threads showing on one tube...will the kick only fit with all tubes and a 18500 or 18490?
All Stingrays, authentic included, don't play well with a kick.
The Stingray X is being cloned now.
The Stingray X is being cloned now.
I wish someone would make a better button for them... something recessed. I'd buy one for each of my 4 Stingrays.
Don't tell mine that. I've been using a 18490 with a Kick 2 since day one.
There's no threads showing, but I'm using an IBTank and I have about a 1mm (maybe less) gap under it. When I first set it up, I had one thread showing, and I think the tank may have been flush at that point. I started with non-flanged cartos, but went to the flanged, which caused a gap. I went back to non-flanged and still have the gap. I'm not sure if I would have enough airflow without a gap. Might try that next time around.
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