Kanger Protank 2 Issues

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jholl318

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The vaping community is awesome and here to help everyone :)

My suggestion would be to learn to rebuild the heads yourself. Thats what I did about a week ago! you van google how to rebuild them and it will bring up a ton of videos, you can also go to your local vape shop as I did, they put on a class on how to rebuild the pro tank heads! It was an awesome learning experience!
 
[ QUOTE=Restyl;11573376]I didn't know it was a part of of the actual coil until I found out later. I am an amateur vaper.

I am using stock coils with the flavor wicks still intact and I'd rather not waste time rebuilding the coils with different wicking. That's not for me :p.

Do you think I should try removing the flavor wicks? Both or just one?[/QUOTE]






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EatBacon

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I agree with everyone who stated they rebuild the wicks. I use a micro coil 28g with 8 wraps and cotton, with cotton above the coil to fill the juice intake hole. It completely changed my PT II to a vaping machine, loads of vapor and great taste. you can google protank micro coil for more information.
 
[ QUOTE=Restyl;11573376]I didn't know it was a part of of the actual coil until I found out later. I am an amateur vaper.

I am using stock coils with the flavor wicks still intact and I'd rather not waste time rebuilding the coils with different wicking. That's not for me :p.

Do you think I should try removing the flavor wicks? Both or just one?


You might not even have to pull out a whole one. They are super easy to pull apart, try just taking off one strand at a time so you don't go back to flooding.



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Dconnor

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In my experience the Performance depends on a lot of individual factors. What kind of juice, how hard you draw, type of wick etc.

What has worked for me is drilling two of the air holes to 1/16", and rewicking with cotton. I build microcoils around 1.5 ohms on a 1/16" drill bit. The Peaches and Cream cotton yarn works best for me. I used the cotton balls but struggled with the same amount of cotton in each head I built. I use one full strand (consists of four smaller threads) and a half strand (or two threads) as the flavor wicks. This combination of air flow and wick/coil works very consistently for me with no leaks and great vapor flavor.
I have also found I need to clean the coils every two tank refills. I use cheap vodka soak and then rinse with hot water. The juice seems to gunk up the wick and coils and the cleaning extends the life and flavor.
This set up has worked great for me YMMV depending on the factors described above.



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evan le'garde

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Rarely, when my coil does flood, i'll cover the mouth piece with kitchel towel and just shake out the excess liquid then shove a q tip down the pipe to remove any condensation left in it. Another good solution is to turn up the volts to dry out the coil a bit. I do this until i get a dry hit. If the problem is more acute i would add a flavour wick or 2. I'd never take parts out though. That would be silly !. Protanks aren't known for giving great flavour either, but i suppose it depends what flavour you're using. And there are a lot of crappy flavours to choose from. I use 100% vg and it is rare my coil floods. Don't know how the Protanks perform with pg or pg vg combined. A guess would be it would leak like a sieve. PG's just too watery..... I dunno !:confused:
 
The flooding is gone now. I replaced the coil with another used stock one I had lying around. I have taken apart the coil before.

For the flavor wicks, If i just take them out and replace them with a little bit of cotton from a normal sterile cotton ball, do you think the dry hit issue will go away?

As I said the gurgling is gone but the flavor is very muted and if I bump up the voltage a little it tastes burnt and unpleasant. I'm only using 1 rubber grommet, cuo around the wicks on a new coil (incase someone new stumbles by with the same issue).

What I've noticed is Kanger is pretty spotty with their manufacturing. I have 3 Protank 2s and exclusively use them. On one, the metal bottompiece that screw onto the battery is so flush there is no airdraw. On the other 2 I can screw them flush (not over tightened) and there will still be an airy draw

How do you dryburn a coil? Im not sure how to
 

elfy

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dry burn: take off head cap, remove wicks, typically I then rinse the coil out, then dry it nicely on some paper towels..

attach it the battery, set it on low volts, fire it up...2 seconds at most...then let it cool....fire up 2 seconds again...let it cool a few seconds....do this a few times

then after its fired a few times and maybe glows a little, ill rinse it again, dry it off and dry burn it again

after that, a final rinse/dry it off...put it back together with some cotton wick, prime the wick w/ juice...assemble tank

makes for a lot nicer vape experience

also in my blog is a post about rebuilding Kanger heads and what tools i piled up ( a few simple things) to make it easier on me...stock Kanger heads can suck and esp when the vape is burnt and tastes like crap. I rebuilt my coils, put in cotton and BOOM! vapor.

when it starts to taste like crap, out goes the wick - then rinse it all off, dry burn, rinse etc..get it nice and clean then new cotton


the really hard part in doing the coil rebuild is getting that coil set just so that its low enough in the head that the cap can fit on and not touch, but high enough that it wont let juice in and leak/gurgle. i was setting mine too low (look at that notch for the wick, mine was halfway below that! not good!) ...and getting a bad vape/gurgles. now the bottom curve of the coils just dips below that notch when you view it from the side. its low enough that it wont touch the top (I use a 2mm screwdriver from a Harbor Freight screwdriver set, think I link to it in my blog post iirc).

rebuilding coils is fun, and it helps a ton. oh ima poet \o/
 
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