Kanger protank 2 leaking and gurgling?

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milescadre

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maybe related? I know on kanger coils if you takethat translucent silicone "cup" thats on the top of the coil and pull it up just a little bit before attaching it (and the base) to the tank, it helps ALOT for sealing (because the tank's center post pushes down that cup to make for a better seal). my protank 3 was leaking and sicne doing hat no more leaks (knock on wood) from fill to dry.

but ironically my protank 2 mini never has had a leak issue so far.
 

Katya

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Kanger BCC Troubleshooting:

If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.

If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).

There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.

1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.

2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.

3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.

4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not over tighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.

5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).

6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.

7) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.

and last but not least

8) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.

It's also a good idea to wash the tank with warm water and a drop of dishwashing detergent prior to first use--some of them taste funny on occasion. Rinse well and dry. The atomizer coils may benefit from a quick soak in PGA or vodka if the priming fluid has an off taste, but I haven't had any problems with them--yet.

Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts. Always start low and increase voltage only if necessary.

Per Kangertech:

"Recommended Voltage for varying resistance levels:

1.7 - 1.9 ohm 3.1 - 3.3 Volts
2.1 - 2.3 ohm 3.4 - 3.7 Volts
2.4 - 2.6 ohm 3.8 - 4.1 Volts
2.6 - 3.0 ohm 4.2 - 4.5 Volts

Please note that atomisers will burn out more quickly at higher voltages."
 

Katya

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The most common complaint with the Aspire seems to be the flavor, not the leaking. Apparently, many users feel the flavor is muted and prefer several other clearos such as the iClear's or PT/PTII. To each their own. Anytime you use pressure differential to "control" leaking, you are going to have leaking "sometimes." That's just a fact of life, and not an opinion. YMMV. Good luck!

That's interesting... I have the Aspire ET-S (the glass eGo-threaded version) and the flavor is beautiful--but I've seen complaints about wicking. I think many folks don't fill them properly at first. Those Aspires are carto-like inside and need some time to get that filler well saturated, but once that's done, it's smooth sailing. I love mine, BTW.

*waving frantically at Bill*
 

Art02

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I think you just over filled it and flooded it. Pour the juice back into the bottle, disassemble the tank, wash everything under warm water blowing out the insides of everything, dry everything, dry burn the head, reassemble and just fill it up about half to three quarters of the way. I have had no leaking problems whatsoever with any of my protanks.

Vaperature,

I am not sure you need to dry burn heads. A well respected buddy said not to. It makes them burn out.

Like you, at any sign of problems with the tank, I clean it again. It always fixes it.

My theory is that a wet o-ring begins the leaking process. Put it all together with clean and dry o-rings and it always works great. If you need to add juice, clean the o-ring with a q-tip and reassemble. If it gurgles even a little or spits, go to backup tank 2. You can clean it all up when you get home.

I clean my heads frequently and everything is good. I probably run 3 Protank Mini's all the time. I am getting better at it.

Again my theory is that a wet o-ring begins the leaking process. If I refill a tank, I generally replace the head and the bottom breather piece. So no wet o-rings get rejoined. Never any leaks. I will be an expert in 2015.

However, that being said, if a head constantly sucks and is dry, you might as well take it apart and clean it with vodka and soak it and remove the wicks and dry burn the coil. What do you have to lose? But the advice that I got was to then clean the head one more time to get rid of the burned off crap. But at that point in time, you either had a dud or that head was done. They don't last forever.

I think I haven't smoked in a month or so. I used to smoke 2.5+ PAD. I am probably running 3 heads and they are all still working great. What do I know? I am beginning to like the Chinese crap. It works pretty good.
 

Gators

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I also had problems with my PT2. In the beginning, I could not get any airflow at all. It wasn't a tight draw, it was no draw. It seems that my problem has to do with either the base or the coil units. The only solution that I've found was to keep testing different coils to see which one fits just right to give me some kind of a draw. Unfortunately, this renders many of my coils useless unless I get another PT to use them on. Even when I find a good coil to use, I still experience leaking from time to time. I think I just got a poor-fitting base. I may order a replacement just to find out.
 

Katya

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I also had problems with my PT2. In the beginning, I could not get any airflow at all. It wasn't a tight draw, it was no draw. It seems that my problem has to do with either the base or the coil units. The only solution that I've found was to keep testing different coils to see which one fits just right to give me some kind of a draw. Unfortunately, this renders many of my coils useless unless I get another PT to use them on. Even when I find a good coil to use, I still experience leaking from time to time. I think I just got a poor-fitting base. I may order a replacement just to find out.

Try this little gizmo: :)

KangerTech AeroTank Base - Sun-Vapers.com
 
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