Kanger protank 2 leaking and gurgling?

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Spinmaster123

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Dec 11, 2013
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So I just received my kanger Pt2 in the mail and I have to say..it looks amazing..but something is wrong with it,. When I fill it and try to vape it I always get a mouthful of liquid and frankly..it irritates me greatly,, is there any way that this gurgling and mouthful of liquid can be fixed?


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Bill's Magic Vapor

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YouTube Videos on the Protank are very helpful. All clearos leak. The key is to correct the issues before gurgling becomes flooding becomes leaking. All clearos are going to require tweaking to get to perform consistently. Nature of the design.

State O'Flux has a blog on tanks and the leaking issue and why this is the case. Here it is. Good explanation:


"Tank" type atomizers... For new vapists - how they work, and why it's a good idea to know this.

Thought I'd throw something up to help relatively new (and some not so new) vapists understand how "tank" type atomizers work. Normally, I use the word "tank" to describe carto tanks... but in this instance, I'll suspend my own personal feelings about the subject, and use the word tank to describe most any clearo, glasso or carto tank - and even some advanced RBAs.

All of the above tank devices are functionally dependent on what's called, a "pressure differential". A fancy term meaning that they use both high or positive (in this context, atmospheric) and low or negative (vacuum or, in this context, less than atmospheric) air pressure to work correctly.

There is high pressure in the air tube that rises to the drip tip and down to the coil head... and out the bottom to the 510/eGo connection. In the tank with the juice - under normal operating conditions... is low pressure.
Still with me? Good.

I can't go further without talking briefly about wicks. Wicks have a few jobs - one of course, to wick juice to the coil so it can be vaporized, and two, the lesser known... to function as a pressure seal. Not a perfect seal mind you... but one with a slow leak, that works both ways.

So, how does negative pressure get in the tank when all around us is positive pressure? Well, that would be dependent on you... drawing on the drip tip. The temporary vacuum you create pulls juice, and that positive pressure you started with in the tank, into the coil head area... and, creates a small vacuum in the tank.
Draw again... more vacuum. Or - fluid level drops... vacuum, theoretically, increases. Not a tremendous amount of vacuum... because most of our "lung generated vacuum" is directed out the coil head tube vent system - and our wick/pressure seal remember - still has that slow leak.

Does the vacuum last forever? No. If you walk away from a tank atty that you were using... for a good while, the vacuum is slowly supplanted by positive pressure. Which is why your atty can be a bit gurgly when you pick it up again... until you reestablish the vacuum with a few draws.
Its also why, if you stand a APV and tank atty on end, and walk away, you may find the 510/eGo positive "well" a bit wet.
That pressure differential (and wick/seal) is why tanks don't leak like sieves - and why, when you refill a tank and introduce positive pressure back into it, they gurgle a bit until a vacuum is reestablished.

And now... back to that all important wick/seal. If you're using a clearo/glasso of the Kanger BCC variety, it's (very) common to play with wicks. Removing flavor wicks, changing wick thickness and materials - and generally tweaking the pressure differential "seal"... without much thought to the fact that it functions as a seal.
Take out too much and the atty gurgles and even leaks. Add too much, or to "tight" a compression - and you get dry hits - and if a cotton wick, burnt gym sock flavored hits.

I mentioned earlier that even advanced RBAs (may) use the same physics as a $5 clearo. A Kayfun, and variations and clones of the Kayfun, use pressure differential as well. In fact, when you look at a Kayfun from that perspective, they start to look a lot like a big, shiny and highly "tunable" clearomizer. Same deal with the Squape, the Aqua and numerous other RBAs. Even genesis tanks have a pressure differential, but due to the design of the (typically metal or ceramic) wick not really functioning as a transfer port seal... it's frequently very temporary.

I used to teach this stuff - just in a different application... but the physics apply, and differential pressure is alive and well in your tank atty.
Just be thankful I'm not teaching a 4 hour class on it... and you're my student.

That's it... take it for what it is, do with it what you will.
 

ConradM

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Nov 22, 2013
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YouTube Videos on the Protank are very helpful. All clearos leak. The key is to correct the issues before gurgling becomes flooding becomes leaking. All clearos are going to require tweaking to get to perform consistently. Nature of the design.

That's just flat out incorrect in my limited experience. While that's accurate for my 3 Kanger tanks it's false for my 3 Aspire BDC tanks.

My PT2 works 50% of the time and my T3s tanks work maybe 80% of the time. All 3 of my Aspire tanks just work all of the time.
 

vaperature

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I think you just over filled it and flooded it. Pour the juice back into the bottle, disassemble the tank, wash everything under warm water blowing out the insides of everything, dry everything, dry burn the head, reassemble and just fill it up about half to three quarters of the way. I have had no leaking problems whatsoever with any of my protanks.
 

vaperature

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How exactly do I dry burn it


You live on a day that will never happen again...ever

Just go to youtube and watch a video on dry burning a protank head, it's very simple. On something like your case, if you just want to dry it after washing it and nothing is gunked up yet, you don't even need to take off the post or the flavor wicks, you can dry burn the head fully assembled and peer through the post to see that it is shining red.
 

elfy

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Nov 8, 2013
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protanks need some love to get to work nicely, Ive seen it said here that PT2s can be especially gurgl-y.

I use minis and at times one might be a great easy draw, tons of vapor and the other gurgles a bit but will still make clouds.

if you are getting juice in your mouth you maybe filled it up too high or got some juice in the air tube, I might get a taste of juice like that once in a while, but not a lot.

I have learned how to make coils for my tanks, it helps with vapor production - but if i get it off a little bit - a wire out of place poking out of the bottom of the head/gasket stuff at the bottom....*gggurrrgleeee*. things have to be set up right, but then its quite nice.
 

vaperature

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I also have one more question..I'm using an ego cTwist with the kanger..when I try to vape it i get no draw...I have no idea what's going on here..also I'm sorry I'm kind of a newbie at all this


You live on a day that will never happen again...ever

Not sure what you mean you get "no draw". Are you getting no vapor at all or is it just hard to draw?
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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That's just flat out incorrect in my limited experience. While that's accurate for my 3 Kanger tanks it's false for my 3 Aspire BDC tanks.

My PT2 works 50% of the time and my T3s tanks work maybe 80% of the time. All 3 of my Aspire tanks just work all of the time.

No need to get defensive, friend. All you have to do is read the many threads and posts on ECF to see that even the Aspires' leak, or taste burnt, or whatever the latest problems are. I'm glad you are having good luck with your gear. Others are not so lucky sometimes. Here's a list of a few of the posts over the last day or two. There are hundreds if you look around:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/474619-aspire-bdc-first-2-days-review.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/498953-aspire-bdc-funny-tastes.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...66-anyone-try-aspire-clearos-tanks-yet-3.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...y-leak-liquid-when-coil-starts-going-bad.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/493356-aspire-bdc-inconsistency.html

The most common complaint with the Aspire seems to be the flavor, not the leaking. Apparently, many users feel the flavor is muted and prefer several other clearos such as the iClear's or PT/PTII. To each their own. Anytime you use pressure differential to "control" leaking, you are going to have leaking "sometimes." That's just a fact of life, and not an opinion. YMMV. Good luck!
 

Danbrooks2k

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Nov 13, 2013
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I have protank IIs, I love them... but they do have issues from time to time. I remove a wick and get a better vape and flavor, but they will gurgle and sometimes leak...

My Smok tech AROs on the other hand... they work flawlessly always... a little tighter draw... but satisfying and hassle free always!
 

Smallville

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Dec 11, 2013
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I was having a major problem with a ProTank II. It wouldn't draw at all, no air flow, no vape. Turns out it was a faulty bottom on the tank. The threads were really short, so when screwed onto my 134 and a friends SID no air could go through. My local store ended up just giving me a new tank after about 30min of trying to get air through it. Sometimes, things are just factory defective.
 

Spazmelda

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Sometimes the silicone grommet on the coil head gets squashed and flares out. This completely blocks the air flow. You can try to fix it by taking the head out of the base and using your fingernail to gently nudge the grommet where it's flared out. If that doesn't work you can try a new head. Sometimes this happens when the protank gets screwed down on the battery too tightly. Please see my very bad attempt to illustrate this issue. It has only happened to me with rebuilt coils. I don't think I've ever had the issue with a stock coil, but it could be that it got screwed down too tight at some point.

image.jpg

The flare is way less dramatic in real life than in my drawing. It doesn't have to be very flared out to block air flow.
 
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