RDA Need a recommendation (I know, me and everyone else)

[SomeTexan]

False: I do have a good hex wrench by necessity because my instrument has hex screws. That doesn't mean I like them.

Thanks anyway.

No offense meant, but in my experience you are in the minority group. I've seen literally hundreds of people in rc modeling that thought the same as you until they tried good tools. Then they wanted hex heads in everything. Same with metric motorcycles that use hex heads, once someone tried good hex tools they had no use for phillips head screws anymore.

One thing to note, Craftsman, Snap-On, Mac, Matco and the like are NOT good hex tools at 2mm or smaller. When it comes to the little stuff, you need specialty stuff.

Out of curiosity, why don't you like hex head screws?

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Out of curiosity, why don't you like hex head screws?

No offense taken! I didn't mean for my previous post to come off so bluntly I guess it's not so much that I don't like them so much as I don't like how unusual they are, if that makes sense, and to be perfectly honest in most instances and for my purposes, philips or flatheads work just fine. You know what they say, "if it ain't broke don't fix it." If I were a little more mechanically minded than I am, I might find myself having more use for them. As it is, it sounds like it's a good thing the Twisted Messes has them so I'm happy enough despite being just fine with the others. It pretty much is as simple as most screws around here being philips or flat and thus at the moment, the vast majority of my screwdrivers are, too. I just don't have the desire to switch them all out for any particular reason. As for the actual rda, I should have an appropriate tool to work with those screws and for now I think that's enough.

I have no doubt that hex screws are better for those who really need them. Other than certain parts of my vaping hardware and my horn that happened to come with them already installed, I don't think I do. That's all it is!

 

[67Tele]

Hey SomeTexan
What size hex tools would you recommend for the atty screws? I don't mind the screws. I do mind the the little, skinny, pop out of your hand "L" tool.

Thanks man

 

[SomeTexan]

Hey SomeTexan
What size hex tools would you recommend for the atty screws? I don't mind the screws. I do mind the the little, skinny, pop out of your hand "L" tool.

Thanks man

Well, I have 2 different rda's, and both have different sized hex screws. The ehpro derringer clone takes .05" and the Freakshow takes 1.5mm. I don't know what size you need. Since they don't need a lot of torque in this application, even craftsman should be ok, but MIP, Thorpe, Integy or any decent quality rc stuff should work well. You can even cut the short side off the L tool and JB Weld the long side into a piece of dowel rod for a makeshift driver that is easier to use than the L tool. A little Plasi-Dip and/or a few min on a lathe will make it even easier to hold.

 

[67Tele]

Thanks man. Appreciate it.

 

[Tom Forde]

Thanks!! Yeah I really have no problem with hexes than the fact that I just am worried about keeping track of the little, unattached key screws. I have a big multi-key-screw device I could probably also use providing the smaller ones are small enough; they might be. I've heard the hex screws actually work better than Philips or flat heads usually... I just listed that as a preference because of convenience, especially since at least for the time being I'll be wrapping on screwdrivers.

I've seen some of the coils people fit into the TM. Unreal! My first little single coil build will look so dinky in comparison

Speaking of, I'm about 90% sure I know the answer to this, but when bulding a single coil on a deck with a dual center post, I'll want to thread one lead through one negative post and then the other through the far positive hole, right? As in, (x) ()(x) (), with x's representing where the leads go?

Yeah that's what I do with my center post block attys. It makes it easier to center the coils depending on how big they are.
Let's say the negatives are (Y1), (Y4) and positives are (X2), (X3) in this order (Y1)-(X2)(X3)-(Y4) - what I do is put a coil in (Y1)&(X3), and since I usually run duals; the other coil in (X2)&(Y4).
It's better for dual coils to place them that way because it'll give them a more even area, without having to bend legs so much.
On my mutation x v4 (I barely use it anymore), I have dual fused 26g claptons and if I tried to place coil 1 in (Y1)&(X2) and coil 2 in (Y4)&(X3), they wouldn't fit centered on the deck.

the fused 26/32g Clapton is close in size to about 20g (or lower) wire.
With a single coil you should be fine fitting it in, just push it in from the negative lead inwards towards the positive post hole.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

With a single coil you should be fine fitting it in, just push it in from the negative lead inwards towards the positive post hole.

Thank you, super helpful post and that all makes perfect sense. I doubt I'll have much trouble getting it centered with the wire I'll be getting for now, just some plain old 24g and 28g Kanthal A, especially alternating the way you showed.

I'm seeing Claptons a lot lately, and of course all sorts of other builds that look positively bonkers compared to regular kanthal. (Bonkers in a good way!) I've done some reading about other sorts of builds that I may ultimately move up to, but just out of curiosity, what do you like about the clapton builds? Do you ever do twisted stuff?

Lastly, is that the X V4 in the photo, or something else? I'm keeping a list of all the RDAs that look like they'll fit my style for when I inevitably want another...

 

[Tom Forde]

Thank you, super helpful post and that all makes perfect sense. I doubt I'll have much trouble getting it centered with the wire I'll be getting for now, just some plain old 24g and 28g Kanthal A, especially alternating the way you showed.

I'm seeing Claptons a lot lately, and of course all sorts of other builds that look positively bonkers compared to regular kanthal. (Bonkers in a good way!) I've done some reading about other sorts of builds that I may ultimately move up to, but just out of curiosity, what do you like about the clapton builds? Do you ever do twisted stuff?

Lastly, is that the X V4 in the photo, or something else? I'm keeping a list of all the RDAs that look like they'll fit my style for when I inevitably want another...

I like my fused claptons because of the flavor they produce. Wrapping thin wire around say 2 strands of 26g creates juice pockets for the wire itself to hold. I ordered some 400&500 316L Stainless Steel mesh to work with, to wrap around wires. I use N80 & N60 (Nichrome) so the resistance is lower and there's barely any ramp up time.
Yeah that's a V4, but in all honesty, I don't really use it too often. It feels cheaply made: the barrel/chamber is so thin it feels like I could bend it out of shape easily. And it leaks but that's my fault because of over dripping.

My favorite atty is the dotmod Petri. I know it has fixed airflow, but it's perfect for my every day vape. I can fit huge builds on it and not worry about centering my coils.

That's my current Petri build, 26g fused Clapton staggered with 34&36g all Nichrome 80. And this is how it fires on a mech:

I do work with twisted stuff, one of my favorite coils is the TM Interlock coil. To make it take 2 strands measuring 3 feet of 28g and twist it clockwise until it's tight, itll start to pull in on itself when it's tight. Cut that twisted 28g into thirds, they should be just under 12" each, and stick those 3 twisted wires into your drill chuck but this time, twist them together counterclockwise until it forms a very tight interlocking shape. If you're on Instagram search for the hashtag TMinterlock.
Also, just throwing it out there, but a standard 3 loop vertebraid is super easy to make and looks great inside your atty.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Also, just throwing it out there, but a standard 3 loop vertebraid is super easy to make and looks great inside your atty.

That's all awesome, thank you! I've said this more than once but I'll keep it simple to start, though I'm looking forward to trying out some more unusual and complex builds.

My Twisted Messes got here already! You know I immediately took it out to get it set up... already have my very first build on it. I've heard some people need a few tries to get their first RDA working but I had no trouble; I just did a simple .5ohm single with 24g. I hope it doesn't sound braggy just by virtue of my first-ever build working exactly as I wanted it to work, but that's not what I meant. I did mention in my OP that I work with jewelry sometimes so I have a feeling that was a help here. It is excellent, all the way around. I have absolutely no doubt that the TM was the right choice for my first one. I'm sure there were other good choices too, but I'm super thrilled to have a not-too-expensive, authentic, single-or-dual capable RDA.

Thanks again everyone! I really appreciate the help

 

[Kprthevapr]

Honestly, I like the hex screws better, they tend to not back out as easily as the other screws.
Here's a pic of my derringer.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Honestly, I like the hex screws better, they tend to not back out as easily as the other screws.

Yeah, they're fine, and I actually like the screws on the TM. I did explain to SomeTexan above that it's actually less to do with how hex screws work and simply that most of my other things with screws in them are philips and flatheads. I just don't like having to keep track of the single hex keys or go grab my big tool when I already have tons of philips/flat screwdrivers around BUT I've definitely heard that the hex are much better than the others, especially with regard to RDAs.

So, really my only question so far: Everything is working as it should, tasting good, no hotspots or hot legs, heating from the middle etc. I am, however, noticing that I'm getting a slightly harsh taste after a few puffs. When I take off the cap to look everything seems fine and the wick even still looks fairly wet, but dripping more helps with the harshness. Is it likely that the wick is just drier than it appears in this case? Or possibly something else? The juice I'm using is also higher PG than I normally would use in a dripper but the harshness is different than the higher throat hit when the wick is sopping.

 

[Kprthevapr]

Sometimes the wick looks wet but it's not as wet as it looks lol
Juice it up good and give it a go! What nic level are ya drippin?

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Juice it up good and give it a go! What nic level are ya drippin?

Pretty sure that's all it was Didn't look THAT wet anyway, just thought I would have had another puff!

I'm using 3mg at the moment. I usually DIY but I got just a couple of bottles from Mister E-liquid since they're still doing a sale on their Winter Collection, one of which I really like (Snowasis). First I had some 50/50 3mg Paradigm in there (a sample) but I just switched it out for the Snowasis. I actually got a 0mg bottle and added my own nic to a few mL, which is actually slightly under 3mg... that's what I'm using now and it's going great. I'm not sure the PG/VG ratio of this one; the Winter Collection was pre-mixed and no option to change it.

 

[sanguinesolitude]

my fav rdas are my vertex v2 and a velocity.

 

[Kprthevapr]

Do you have a pic of your setup?
What kinda cotton/wick are you using?

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Do you have a pic of your setup?
What kinda cotton/wick are you using?

I don't know why my picture keeps turning sideways, but there it is. Sorry! It's Japanese cotton wick. So far it does seem like the harsh taste was just the beginning of it going dry, despite it still looking kinda damp. I also switched flavors already and there was barely any melding so I guess the wick was simply drier than it seemed. As for the build, I didn't realize it was quite so off-center until I took the photo but it still seems to be working just fine. Great, really.

 

[sanguinesolitude]

Do you have a pic of your setup?
What kinda cotton/wick are you using?

i use my vertex on a king mechmod most of the time. pretty basic build. dual coil 26g kanthal built at .5 ohms (tried single and flavor was great, but clouds were a little subdued and i like to fog up a room) standard cotton wick. best flavor i've ever gotten from an rda
i'll try to take pics at home.

velocity i usually use on a vv mod. lately the mvp 3 pro. dual coil (building on this is amazingly easy) 26g .3ohm, standard cotton drooping down into the juice wells. usually vape at 40-45 watts. higher watts get too warm for my liking. this thing chucks clouds like nobodies business while also giving good flavor.

both are clones, and both work amazingly well.

the vertex was my first rda, and half the new ones i've tried since i use for a build or two, and then stick back in the vape drawer to collect dust.

 

[Kprthevapr]

Cool. With new cotton it will taste a lil funky and harsh.
We got a box of cellucotton from Sally's beauty supply, 500' $17. Works great and no fresh cotton taste.

 

[Kprthevapr]

i use my vertex on a king mechmod most of the time. pretty basic build. dual coil 26g kanthal built at .5 ohms (tried single and flavor was great, but clouds were a little subdued and i like to fog up a room) standard cotton wick. best flavor i've ever gotten from an rda
i'll try to take pics at home.

velocity i usually use on a vv mod. lately the mvp 3 pro. dual coil (building on this is amazingly easy) 26g .3ohm, standard cotton drooping down into the juice wells. usually vape at 40-45 watts. higher watts get too warm for my liking. this thing chucks clouds like nobodies business while also giving good flavor.

both are clones, and both work amazingly well.

the vertex was my first rda, and half the new ones i've tried since i use for a build or two, and then stick back in the vape drawer to collect dust.

I run my derringers at .2 with 26g and cellucotton.
I have probably 30+ drippers 0 tanks lol.
My favorites are:
Derringer
Mini freakshow
Omertà
Zenith
All of my mods/drippers are clones

 

[ddirtyvapes]

It's starting to taste better now, thanks!

Just one other question: is there anything I need to keep an eye out for specifically safety-wise other than hotspots and hot legs and that kind of build-issue stuff when using a non-mech VV/VW device? Or if it's firing, reading the correct resistance, and working well, is it probably OK besides the coil-specific stuff? I'm not even thinking about doing my own coils on a mech right now.