Need some mod advice. DNA30, Provari etc.

[teknologik]

I have been vaping for a bit now and have a itaste mvp and vamo. I have a protank 1,2, and 3, however I have switched to the nautilus lately with a stainless steel tank and am seriously in love. So much that I'm considering just selling the other protanks and switching over (the taste is that much better). I am thinking about selling some mods and picking up something new.

I have heard people talk about the DNA30 and something about it not burning low enough for certain tanks. Will it work okay with the nautilus? I really don't have the time to learn to rebuild my heads so I just buy them atm, although I'll probably learn at some point. I may pick up the NES DNA30 mod. If not I would get something like the provari.

TLDR: I use a Nautilus tank and love it, should I get a NES DNA30, Provari or something completely different?

Thanks!

 

[serenity21899]

What wattage do you generally vape at? I keep it around 6-7 watts. I don't know what the minimum wattage of the DNA30 is, but I am certainly not going to vape at 30 watts. Therefore, the DNA30 not for me.

I do have ProVaris, but have not used the Nautilus. I mostly use carto tanks, but have had a ProTank2 on my ProVari without issue.

 

[teknologik]

What wattage do you generally vape at? I keep it around 6-7 watts. I don't know what the minimum wattage of the DNA30 is, but I am certainly not going to vape at 30 watts. Therefore, the DNA30 not for me.

I do have ProVaris, but have not used the Nautilus. I mostly use carto tanks, but have had a ProTank2 on my ProVari without issue.

Do most people vape in watts?
Normally i'm 3.6 to 4.1 volts depending on the juice. On average, 3.7. If I go much higher then 4.2 all of my juices taste burney.

 

[serenity21899]

I was asking watts because you have them on your current devices, and the DNA30 uses watts. They (vv and vw) are both ways to get to the same place. What is the resistance of your coil? With that we can calculate the wattage.

I am asking because you did not mention subohming, which is where the high wattage comes into play. I am making a really general statement here when I say that I think that is more whom the DNA30 is designed for.

I am not a high wattage vapor, so the ProVari is a better choice for me. I am not explaining it well, but someone will come along who will.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

The DA-20/30 only really start to shine with rebuilables where you can adjust wicking and airflow to handle the high end of the power settings. If you are using protanks and the like the Provari would be the better choice.

 

[wheelie]

Best thing you can do for your Protanks is add Kangertech Airflow Control Valve For Protank2/3/Aerotank Clearomizer to them. Bought mine from Canvape for $5.95 each. Changed them totally into a new tank and I love them now. You ajust the air level how you want it and it changes things drastically. Close the holes and it goes back to stock.

 

[bce22]

Volts is only part of the equation. It means nothing if you don't fill in one of the other variables: current (amps) or resistance (ohms). Power (watts) = Volts x Volts / resistance OR current x current x resistance.

Here is an example:

On my mechanical mod I have a coil of 1.2 ohm. Taking voltage drop out of the equation for simplicity sake my battery is delivering 4.0 volts. I don't know the amps I am drawing without doing a quick calculation. Since I know 2 of the 3 variables (volts, resistance) I can calculate for the third (current).

Volts (V): 4.0v
Resistance (R): 1.2 ohms
Current (I): unknown

To calculate the missing variable you use ohms law formula depending on what variable you are missing.

1. If you are missing current then use I=V/R (amps = volts ÷ ohms) Note: VERY useful calculation in vaping
2. If you are missing resistance then use R = V/I (ohms = volts ÷ amps) Note: not as useful in vaping
3. If you are missing volts then use V = IR (volts = ohms x amps) Note: not as useful in vaping

So in my example above to find out how many amps I am drawing from my battery on my mechanical with a 1.2 ohm coil and a fresh battery delivering 4.0 volts I would do this:

4.0 volts ÷ 1.2 ohm = 3.33 amps. I now know my 30amp sony is barely breaking a sweat

Now what if I want to know how many watts this is? Watts are very useful as it is essentially the culmination of power taking everything into account. It is the best number to use when comparing vaping power output as it includes in itself coil resistance and volts). For example in a previous post the author said (I am paraphrasing) "when I vape at 4.2 volts everything tastes burnt" . This statement means nothing in and of itself. It begs for the follow up question "what resistance is your coil" because a coil with a resistance of 0.5ohm has a much higher power output than one at 2.5 ohm.

Wattage is useful when discussing these issues as it includes in it I, V and R. So let me show you how to calculate it. You don't need to know what your current draw (amps) is to calculate Power (watts), but it's so easy and valuable you should do it.

P = VV/R (volts x volts ÷ resistance) or
P = IIR ( current x current x resistance)

To calculate power (watts) for my previous example I would do this:

4.0 (volts) x 4.0 (volts) ÷ 1.2 (resistance) = 13.33 (watts) OR
3.33 (amps) x 3.33 (amps) x 1.2 (resistance) = 13.31 (watts) - the difference between the calculations is rounding - in reality they are equal.

So vaping this atomizer on my mechanical with the battery at 4.0 volts currently, using my provari at 4.0 volts or a hana modz v3 set to 13 watts will give the same vape.

This is the simplest and first step into the world of understanding electronic devices. If you want to learn a lot check out these free courses in electronics. I used these courses to teach myself how to repair vintage hi-fi audio equipment where an understanding of ohms low is the first baby step. NEETS - Navy Electricity and Electronics Training Series

Start with module one. You will thank me!

PS. I typed this up on my tablet so kf you see any errors let me know. Where is a desktop when you need one
Regards,

Brad

 

[bce22]

What wattage do you generally vape at? I keep it around 6-7 watts. I don't know what the minimum wattage of the DNA30 is, but I am certainly not going to vape at 30 watts. Therefore, the DNA30 not for me.

I do have ProVaris, but have not used the Nautilus. I mostly use carto tanks, but have had a ProTank2 on my ProVari without issue.

I believe the minimum wattage of the dna30 is 7 watts.

 

[BaDaBooM]

Dna-30 board is awesome, really easy to use, display all the info need, sucks if you vape below 7watts because thats the lowest setting.

Provari is outdated and it has a one button menu system that drives me up the wall.

Also there is the sigelei 20w don't own one but its worth looking into.
SIGELEI-20W_Sigelei-20w_LEGEND_SIGELEI Electronic Cigarette -

 

[nic_fix]

id get a mech. I do not care for rba's. lazy. nautilus with 1.8 coils on a mech suits me fine. you can't adjust it at all but I am happy at 4.2-3.6 volts. I feel the nautilus is the only viable rba option. if you want a electronic the provari is great if not dated. I saw I was using it at 4.0 so I just went to mechs. they are much nicer imo. if you get up to like 4.5v the nautilus will start frying the juice. seeing the limited range in which the nautilus works for me mechs was my answer. ymmv of course. depends on your juice too I guess.

 

[slappy3139]

I have been vaping for a bit now and have a itaste mvp and vamo. I have a protank 1,2, and 3, however I have switched to the nautilus lately with a stainless steel tank and am seriously in love. So much that I'm considering just selling the other protanks and switching over (the taste is that much better). I am thinking about selling some mods and picking up something new.

I have heard people talk about the DNA30 and something about it not burning low enough for certain tanks. Will it work okay with the nautilus? I really don't have the time to learn to rebuild my heads so I just buy them atm, although I'll probably learn at some point. I may pick up the NES DNA30 mod. If not I would get something like the provari.

TLDR: I use a Nautilus tank and love it, should I get a NES DNA30, Provari or something completely different?

Thanks!

If you have no interest in getting into rebuildables then there is no reason for you to get a DNA device. Your heads will never be able to wick fast enough to avoid getting burnt taste at higher power levels. Highly recommend the provari, its the most reliable, consistent, and accurate device I own.

 

[HumbleTex]

I'm looking at a DNA 30 device for two reasons only.

1. Even though I barely and I do mean barely run sub ohm coils (.9 to be exact) my Provari won't fire it.
2. My mechs will fire the .9 ohm coil but after a couple of months and 3 different mechanicals I've found that all being equal I prefer a regulated mod so I don't have to deal with carrying spare batteries.

If my Provari would fire coils down to .7 ohms or so I wouldn't be in the market for a DNA 30 device at all.

YMMV.

 

[FearTX]

I have been vaping for a bit now and have a itaste mvp and vamo. I have a protank 1,2, and 3, however I have switched to the nautilus lately with a stainless steel tank and am seriously in love. So much that I'm considering just selling the other protanks and switching over (the taste is that much better). I am thinking about selling some mods and picking up something new.

I have heard people talk about the DNA30 and something about it not burning low enough for certain tanks. Will it work okay with the nautilus? I really don't have the time to learn to rebuild my heads so I just buy them atm, although I'll probably learn at some point. I may pick up the NES DNA30 mod. If not I would get something like the provari.

TLDR: I use a Nautilus tank and love it, should I get a NES DNA30, Provari or something completely different?

Thanks!

There is a post above that explains why your "My Xtank at 4 volts tastes burny" means little. I would say if you are tryiing to decide between a Provari and a DNA30 device AND you are going to stick with conventional tanks/cartos then you should get a Provari. It is the perfect device for 90% of the conventional vapers out there. If you are going to get into rebuildables, you like to tinker, etc. you would be happy with a DNA30 they both have their strong points and their limitations.

I'm looking at a DNA 30 device for two reasons only.

1. Even though I barely and I do mean barely run sub ohm coils (.9 to be exact) my Provari won't fire it.
2. My mechs will fire the .9 ohm coil but after a couple of months and 3 different mechanicals I've found that all being equal I prefer a regulated mod so I don't have to deal with carrying spare batteries.

If my Provari would fire coils down to .7 ohms or so I wouldn't be in the market for a DNA 30 device at all.

YMMV.

I am not really understanding your need for a regulated device so you do not have to carry extra batteries statement. I carry extra batteries for my Hana V3, my Provari and my Mechanicals depending on what I am carrying. I may not be near a power outlet for the Hana V3 I can kill that battery in 3 hours at 25 watts. My Provari usually gets me through a day with an 18650 but not if it is the only device I am vaping on. My mechanicals work well with the VCT4s abot 6 hours or the Efest 35amp about 8 hours.

Your Provari will fire a .9 coil, turn the voltage down.

Provari has it's limitations, it is still a fantastic device.

DNA 30D has it's limitations, it is a fantastic device.

If you like vaping on 1.2ohm builds at 11 watts you can do so on your Provari, you cannot do so on your DNA 30 device.

DNA30 is VW only that ranges from 7 to 30 watts. The lowest voltage it will output is 4 volts. If you put your 1.2ohm build on the DNA 30 device and set it for 11 watts the ohms readout will blink at you indicating there is an issue. It will still fire your atty, but it will do so 4 volts.

So in an answer to the OP.

Mainstream vaping? harder to get better than a Provari - durable, high quality device.

Hobbyist vaping? - I like my Hana V3 The thing kicks out the power.

 

[bce22]

Great writeup Fear!

This is a fantastic post that sums up the comparison perfectly.

 

[teknologik]

Let's say I DO want to get into hobby vaping with a DNA3 then? Where would I start with rba's? If it's really better tasting/performing I'd be willing to learn. Would save money on heads at least I suppose as well.

Edit: Are there places I can buy pre-wicked heads for rba?

 

[bce22]

It isn't hard but it requires time and interest to learn. Learning to coil. Learning to wick. Learning to understanding ohms law. None of these are hard just more time consuming than putting in a new head in a ProTank.

There are generally two types of rebuildable atomizers for simplicity. Ones with tanks and ones without. If you want the convenience of a tank than look into the Kayfun lite plus (there are a lot of different Kayfun models) or a Russian. For a non-tank rebuildable, called drippers or Rda, then are so many good ones to choose from.

I recommend if you go this route getting one of each. They both have pros and cons.

 

[teknologik]

Yeah I probably wouldn't be so interested in it but I really want the NES controller mod and it uses DNA3. Plus I am more of a hobbyist I am just concerned about how much I am going to have to learn to figure all of this out. People suggesting drilling out airholes on things like the rsst. Measuring ohms etc etc. I just don't want it to be super difficult. If it's just wrapping coils then I am not worried, I just don't want to jump too far down the rabbit hole.

Edit: Also watching people torch wires and stuff. Yeah if it requires all of that I might have to pass on dna3.

 

[K_Tech]

Let's say I DO want to get into hobby vaping with a DNA3 then? Where would I start with rba's? If it's really better tasting/performing I'd be willing to learn. Would save money on heads at least I suppose as well.

Edit: Are there places I can buy pre-wicked heads for rba?

Echoing what others said, unless you're going to get into rebuilding, the DNA30 isn't going to provide you with anything you can't get from the Provari.

With coils less than two ohms, as FearTX mentioned, your DNA30 isn't going to be able to give you 7 watts because of its limitations.

Now, if you're looking to get into rebuilding and would like to try your hand without spending a LOT of money (because you will later, lol) take a look at the Youde Igo line of RDAs (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizers).

My first dripper was a Smoktech Scar (because it was like $6) but I'd suggest an Igo-L. Decent sized deck, single coil setup, and the only drawback (for me) was that the air hole needed drilled out (unless you like a REALLY tight draw).

An Igo-L, a bag of cotton balls (or cotton yarn) for wick, three or four spools of Kanthal to experiment with, you're still around $50. And the wick and wire will last you a LOOOOOONG time should you continue down the rebuildable path.

 

[Connor S]

I wouldn't start with a dripper..? ^^^

I'd definately look at getting a euphro or hcigar kayfun clone. Easiest Rebuildables. Still has a tank like clearos and cartos, great flavor. And if you run a microcoil cotton setup you can rewick the coil so easily and only have to actually rebuild a coil every month or so.

 

[K_Tech]

I wouldn't start with a dripper..? ^^^

I'd definately look at getting a euphro or hcigar kayfun clone. Easiest Rebuildables. Still has a tank like clearos and cartos, great flavor. And if you run a microcoil cotton setup you can rewick the coil so easily and only have to actually rebuild a coil every month or so.

It's just a matter of opinion. I only suggested an RDA because there's not as much to learn to get an RDA working right.