Exactly. I started with an rda since I perceived that to have far less variables during my learning curve. Deck, posts and top cap, that's all there is to put together
Need some mod advice. DNA30, Provari etc.
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Exactly. I started with an rda since I perceived that to have far less variables during my learning curve. Deck, posts and top cap, that's all there is to put together
I started out with the IGO line of RDAs, shortly after that I got into the AGA gennies then went Kayfun and have not touched a genny since. I will say that I use my RDAs as much on busy days as I do my Kayfun/Russians. I use my RDAs more on days when I am at the desk at work all day or at home. In my opinion there is no beating the flavor you get from a well built RDA. Kayfun comes close but not quite.
OP, you already have Protanks so you should have used heads. Buy yourself some organic cotton balls or sterile rolled cotton. Both available at CVS, at some other drug stores, organic cotton balls can be had from Walmart, both are available on ebay. Buy your self some 30 gauge Kanthal A1 and a 5/64 drill bit and watch some youtube videos.
You can increase the flavor and quality of the vapor of stock Kanger coils immensely by rebuilding them. You will know fairly quick if rebuilding is for you or not without buying hardware you will not use. 20$ gets you enough rebuilding supplies to rebuild your Kanger heads for 6 months to a year. If rebuilding is for you then you will have the skills and a start on supplies. You will need to check ohms, you will need to watch some videos. You will need to do some reading.
There is always this forum for a HALP! I can't rebuild this thing right post.
P.S. The Provari works well for the hobbyist, you need to build to it's strong points. I think there are only a few things better than a Kayfun to sit on top of a Provari. I am just liking my Hana V3 more right now because it is newer and more powerful
*Tim the Toolman Taylor voice* Arrr Arrrr Arrrrrrrrrr
Edit: As for torching wires, you are here and most likely a former smoker. You should be comfortable with using a Bic lighter by now. It works fine for annealing the wire, it just leaves a bit of soot behind.
OP, you already have Protanks so you should have used heads. Buy yourself some organic cotton balls or sterile rolled cotton. Both available at CVS, at some other drug stores, organic cotton balls can be had from Walmart, both are available on ebay. Buy your self some 30 gauge Kanthal A1 and a 5/64 drill bit and watch some youtube videos.
You can increase the flavor and quality of the vapor of stock Kanger coils immensely by rebuilding them. You will know fairly quick if rebuilding is for you or not without buying hardware you will not use. 20$ gets you enough rebuilding supplies to rebuild your Kanger heads for 6 months to a year. If rebuilding is for you then you will have the skills and a start on supplies. You will need to check ohms, you will need to watch some videos. You will need to do some reading.
There is always this forum for a HALP! I can't rebuild this thing right post.
P.S. The Provari works well for the hobbyist, you need to build to it's strong points. I think there are only a few things better than a Kayfun to sit on top of a Provari. I am just liking my Hana V3 more right now because it is newer and more powerful
*Tim the Toolman Taylor voice* Arrr Arrrr Arrrrrrrrrr
Edit: As for torching wires, you are here and most likely a former smoker. You should be comfortable with using a Bic lighter by now. It works fine for annealing the wire, it just leaves a bit of soot behind.
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If the aesthetics of the NES mod is what is appealing to you, go for it. However, if the Nautilus tank is going to be your primary topper, and/or you don't plan to learn rebuilding, just note that you likely wont be using the DNA30 even at a fraction of its intended potential.
IMHO, a Provari is a more suitable for a "set and forget" style of vaping.
If you're set on getting the NES controller then buy it but I think the wait time for one is excessive. The same goes for any DNA30 device at this point in time. It took almost 2 months of website stalking to snag my ZNA.
If you're not into rebuildables yet go for the Provari. It's built like a tank, you can pick one up easily from Provape or maybe even a local vape shop and they have a fair amount of colors. If you do get into rebuilding then the Provari will fire down to a resistance of 0.8 ohms which is plenty unless you get into serious cloud chasing. I was involved in a rollover vehicle accident in January and not only did my Provari (and Kayfun Lite+) survive but it still works like the day I bought it. With a variable voltage device like the Provari you will have to adjust the voltage when switching between different resistance atomizers whereas a variable wattage device will attempt to put out the same wattage no matter what you top it with. But it takes about all of 5 seconds to change the Provari voltage.
As far as a DNA30 device goes the specs from Evolv (maker of the DNA30 chip) state it will fire down to a resistance of 0.5ohms although I've heard some say it will go as low as 0.3ohms. I've yet to meet anyone that vapes at a consistent 30 watts. As someone else posted, they can only get about 3 hours of battery life at 25 watts. I bought my ZNA because I loved the look, wanted a 30 watt device to play around with and as a present for my one year tobacco-free anniversary and as a birthday present to myself (they're within 2 weeks of each other).
I'm still waiting on my ZNA to be remailed to my as I just moved but I use my Provari every day. My mechanical mods are for my rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDA's) and my regulated devices for my Kayfuns. If I were in your position I'd go with the Provari.
If you're not into rebuildables yet go for the Provari. It's built like a tank, you can pick one up easily from Provape or maybe even a local vape shop and they have a fair amount of colors. If you do get into rebuilding then the Provari will fire down to a resistance of 0.8 ohms which is plenty unless you get into serious cloud chasing. I was involved in a rollover vehicle accident in January and not only did my Provari (and Kayfun Lite+) survive but it still works like the day I bought it. With a variable voltage device like the Provari you will have to adjust the voltage when switching between different resistance atomizers whereas a variable wattage device will attempt to put out the same wattage no matter what you top it with. But it takes about all of 5 seconds to change the Provari voltage.
As far as a DNA30 device goes the specs from Evolv (maker of the DNA30 chip) state it will fire down to a resistance of 0.5ohms although I've heard some say it will go as low as 0.3ohms. I've yet to meet anyone that vapes at a consistent 30 watts. As someone else posted, they can only get about 3 hours of battery life at 25 watts. I bought my ZNA because I loved the look, wanted a 30 watt device to play around with and as a present for my one year tobacco-free anniversary and as a birthday present to myself (they're within 2 weeks of each other).
I'm still waiting on my ZNA to be remailed to my as I just moved but I use my Provari every day. My mechanical mods are for my rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDA's) and my regulated devices for my Kayfuns. If I were in your position I'd go with the Provari.
Re-doing my Protank coils is how I got interested in rebuildables. Once I started doing cotton wicked microcoils in my Protanks, I started enjoying them all over again.
I have one of my rebuilds with me tonight; it's no Russian/Kayfun, but the flavor really is delightful at 10 watts. (It WILL handle 15 watts comfortably, but at 24mg nic, I can't handle it, lol).
I went pretty much the same route. Then wound up drilling the air holes in the 510 connector on the protanks out to 1/16 and enjoyed them even more. Bought some aerotank bases for them and do not use them much anymore. There are times when a VV3+Protank fit in the pocket nicely though. I usually still opt for my 450mah eGo and an IGO-S for those occasions.
I went pretty much the same route. Then wound up drilling the air holes in the 510 connector on the protanks out to 1/16 and enjoyed them even more. Bought some aerotank bases for them and do not use them much anymore. There are times when a VV3+Protank fit in the pocket nicely though. I usually still opt for my 450mah eGo and an IGO-S for those occasions.
At the risk of further drifting off on a tangent - I didn't drill my bases, but I did buy two of the aftermarket bases with larger air holes. Recently I picked up an Aerotank base, but I haven't used it yet.
I'm with everyone here, provari provari provari! Though i love my DNA30... If you are to become interested in the world of RBA's, RDA's, etc.. the information will come naturally if you stick to it, and continue to learn. You're at the right place, and there's lots of information to be had here.
100' spool of A1 Kanthal: 8$ online
Bag of cotton: $3-$5 at CVS
RBA's, RDA's: Priceless... Okay, i kidd. $3-$200+ online or in a B&M.
You'll learn the inn's and outs by simply doing the rebuilding. Watch a couple videos to get a good idea of how to make a coil, and READ a lot about Ohm's law.
100' spool of A1 Kanthal: 8$ online
Bag of cotton: $3-$5 at CVS
RBA's, RDA's: Priceless... Okay, i kidd.
$3-$200+ online or in a B&M. You'll learn the inn's and outs by simply doing the rebuilding. Watch a couple videos to get a good idea of how to make a coil, and READ a lot about Ohm's law.
If I get something like the kayfun clone will I need a ohms reader? I'm starting to consider just trying to rebuild.
Yes if you rebuild you will definitely want a multimeter.
By the way, this thread has more good information in it within 3 pages than most threads by 30.
By the way, this thread has more good information in it within 3 pages than most threads by 30.
Yeah, I noticed that. I've re-read the thread about 5 times now. It's not just a thread about suggestions now, it's a valuable font of knowledge, lol.
This is an extremely good thread!
I've just made the transition from evods to kayfun and taifun clones in the past few weeks and I can't believe the difference. I could never take any of the evods, iclears or aspires anywhere past about 7.5w without getting a horrible burning taste so I had plenty of power on my mvp2. I've never tried the 'higher end' of non rebuildables like the aerotank or nautilus though. Now I'm finding that the mvp2 is very weak and severely lacking power and flavour compared to a mech mod and rebuildable. It's just a different ball game flavour wise and vapour wise. It's a completely different experience. I've come down in nicotine level from 18mg to 6mg just because the hit is so big.
They are a fiddly pain in the .... however - if i take mine out without spares I can almost guarantee I will need to change the wick at some point during the day. It's so easy to and cheap to build coils and wicks though and with practice can be done in a 5 minutes or less. All you do is wrap wire tightly around something like a drill bit, take it off, screw it down, thread some cotton through it, check for ohms/shorts and there you go. I did order tons of prebuilt coils for fasttech but my own work better and its so quick you might as well do your own. If you want the best vape you have to rebuild really. There is no such thing as a hassle free vape in my experience. Buying pre-built coils you will also have problems with dodgy heads, heads going bad every day or two etc. Ecigs are very unreliable.
I've just made the transition from evods to kayfun and taifun clones in the past few weeks and I can't believe the difference. I could never take any of the evods, iclears or aspires anywhere past about 7.5w without getting a horrible burning taste so I had plenty of power on my mvp2. I've never tried the 'higher end' of non rebuildables like the aerotank or nautilus though. Now I'm finding that the mvp2 is very weak and severely lacking power and flavour compared to a mech mod and rebuildable. It's just a different ball game flavour wise and vapour wise. It's a completely different experience. I've come down in nicotine level from 18mg to 6mg just because the hit is so big.
They are a fiddly pain in the .... however - if i take mine out without spares I can almost guarantee I will need to change the wick at some point during the day. It's so easy to and cheap to build coils and wicks though and with practice can be done in a 5 minutes or less. All you do is wrap wire tightly around something like a drill bit, take it off, screw it down, thread some cotton through it, check for ohms/shorts and there you go. I did order tons of prebuilt coils for fasttech but my own work better and its so quick you might as well do your own. If you want the best vape you have to rebuild really. There is no such thing as a hassle free vape in my experience. Buying pre-built coils you will also have problems with dodgy heads, heads going bad every day or two etc. Ecigs are very unreliable.
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Everyone Vapes at Watts and Volts. Watts are derived by squaring the voltage you are using and dividing that by the resistance, Ohms, of the coil.
So for your Nautilus, which has either a 1.6 or 1.8 ohm coil heads, at your average of 3.7 volts you are vaping at 8.5 watts for a 1.6 ohm coil head or 7.6 watts for a 1.8 ohm coil head.
So a DNA 30 would be just about useless to you.
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