Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod not working/switch button heating up

[juan9999]

I'm having an issue with my Nemesis Style Mechanical mod.

$24.63 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / with telescopic 510 contact pin at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I upgraded the switch to magnets.

Initial symptom was that I was getting minimal vapor production with my russian. I moved the russian to another mod, and it worked great on it so I know it's not the russian. I tried my kaifun on the nemesis and same issue. The ohms are 1.2 on both units.

I then tested the nemesis on my voltage meter, and I was getting 4V reliably on button presses.

I put the russian back on it, and same issue, mimial vapor production.

I assume I have some kind of short, but how do I trouble shoot it? It was working great 2 days ago.

Even tried a fresh pair of batteries...

HELPPPP...

 

[crxess]

Take everything apart
Clean with Isopropyl Alcohol
Reassemble and adjust as needed

 

[juan9999]

ok, after messing around with it for a bit (taking off the top, lowering the 510 pin, taking off the switch, removing the lock ring, ...) tightening the screw on the switch it automagically works...

 

[planes]

Yup. Ran into the same problem myself. ADjustments are what did t for me

 

[juan9999]

I suspect it's because the button comes in contact with the lock ring creating a short. I wish there was a way to make the lock ring a bit shorter or insulate it

 

[Jackstand Johnny]

So how tedious or time consuming bus the adjustment part of installing a magnet button? I'm thinking on getting one for my nemesis clone when I have the money.

 

[schuff]

So how tedious or time consuming bus the adjustment part of installing a magnet button? I'm thinking on getting one for my nemesis clone when I have the money.

2-3 minutes total. Very simple to do. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iI0dvGnuMto

 

[crxess]

I suspect it's because the button comes in contact with the lock ring creating a short. I wish there was a way to make the lock ring a bit shorter or insulate it

You cannot short a negative to a negative.
Lock ring is on body - Negative path
Switch contacts Battery bottom - Negative path

In fiddling you got the lengths corrected to allow for good solid contact which dropped resistance at the switch allowing proper current flow.

 

[armoworrior]

What ohm coils are you using?

 

[juan9999]

You cannot short a negative to a negative.
Lock ring is on body - Negative path
Switch contacts Battery bottom - Negative path

In fiddling you got the lengths corrected to allow for good solid contact which dropped resistance at the switch allowing proper current flow.

So it started again. I had the mod in my bag, and I'm pretty sure locked, but when I picked it up, it was burning hot. The atty was a kaifun at 1.2ohms.

So I let it cool, changed batteries, cleaned it with alcohol, readjusted, and now when I vape on it (.4ohm RDA) the magnetic button gets really hot (more than even the RDA) when I use...

What should I be looking for?

Voltage when connected to a 510 voltmeter is steady.

 

[juan9999]

So how tedious or time consuming bus the adjustment part of installing a magnet button? I'm thinking on getting one for my nemesis clone when I have the money.

They are like $3 at fasttech

 

[juan9999]

What ohm coils are you using?

Between .4 and 1.2 (see above).

 

[juan9999]

So it started again. I had the mod in my bag, and I'm pretty sure locked, but when I picked it up, it was burning hot. The atty was a kaifun at 1.2ohms.

So I let it cool, changed batteries, cleaned it with alcohol, readjusted, and now when I vape on it (.4ohm RDA) the magnetic button gets really hot (more than even the RDA) when I use...

What should I be looking for?

Voltage when connected to a 510 voltmeter is steady.

Ok, so I bought another clone, and switched the buttons around (both upgraded with magnets). The fasttech one continued to heat up, while the other button did not (tried several times).

The fastech one (in the picture with brass/black delrin) is the one that shorts and heats up. The new button does not heat up. Both seem to be very similar, and are adjusted similarly. What should I try to do to debug?

None of my other 8 mods do this.

 

[juan9999]

Ok, this is driving me crazy. I took them both apart, cleaned them, then put them back together again, and the fastech one shorted again.


I then just unscrewed it, took it off, tested with the other one then I screwed back on (no readjustments), and now it works! WTH?

 

[crxess]

What do you mean by Shorted?
Auto fired when screwed in?

The only thing that will cause that is forcing the negative contact Pin higher than the Delrin.<Unless your Battery has a tear in the wrapping touching the Mod itself.>

Oh, and that rice pin people keep taking out to reduce bind.............It also helps to transfer current from the center(contact pin) to the Brass threaded section and Body of the mod. I.E. part of the current path.

 

[Ryedan]

It's not shorting. What you've got is IMO a contact surface in the switch assembly that's dirty and has high resistance. I happen to have mine apart. Here's a shot of the switch parts:

So, you have a set of contact surfaces between the threads on the brass piece and the Nemesis bottom tube. The hole in the brass piece to the indicated surface of the button. Then there are the screw threads which go into the button.

So you have three sets of contact surfaces that need to have almost no resistance so they will not heat up. IMO your problem is with one of these three.

I don't use sandpaper on contact surfaces. Have a look at the marks on the brass:

I check voltage drop under load at the coil and I know these marks don't make resistance after being wiped well with alcohol and a Q-tip.

 

[Pod99966]

What do you mean by Shorted?
Oh, and that rice pin people keep taking out to reduce bind.............It also helps to transfer current from the center(contact pin) to the Brass threaded section and Body of the mod. I.E. part of the current path.

Why would you take the pin out? not only is it part of the current path,, but it is there to mechanically hold the brass ring so you can thread it in.

 

[crxess]

Why would you take the pin out? not only is it part of the current path,, but it is there to mechanically hold the brass ring so you can thread it in.

Don't ask me, but a few of our members have don't and one insist his works better. I'll keep mine in place. Already had one switch get stuck in a tube. If the pin wasn't in there I'd have never gotten it out.

 

[bsoplinger]

To make the switch move better, to get rid of the crunchy feeling, I'd want to polish the inside of the brass ring that has the delrin insulator and the center post of the bottom piece, correct? What do folks use for this? Anything special? How do you actually do the polishing?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[Razzlematt]

I used some Flitz polish and a terry cloth towel to LIGHTLY polish those surfaces on my new copper HCigar Nemesis today, huge improvement in smoothness! No more sticky button.

Five minutes or so, by hand....no Dremel involved.