Thanks indyjoey for the blank.
It made me curious so I made one of two of my adaptations.
Ack
It made me curious so I made one of two of my adaptations.
Ack
Thanks indyjoey for the blank.
It made me curious so I made one of two of my adaptations.
Ack
Thanks indyjoey for the blank.
It made me curious so I made one of two of my adaptations.
Ack
I really like the one on the left. Of course with laser etching it won't look like line art. What does it look like on the blank if you use black lettering ala the logo on the Protege?
Superimposed on some blanks. I think they got a little pixelated when I shrunk them down to fit, but you get the idea.
You need to be composing your artwork as vector (e.g. Illustrator) and not raster images (e.g. Photoshop).
Vector can be scaled up without pixelation, though shrinking sometimes requires pixel hand-hinting.
Logos should always be vector images. Keep your source graphics as vector and then export them to intended size with touch up as needed if you like.
The forum murders these images. I've attached an example of one of my source images to illustrate the point - scale it up, scale it down, see how it behaves differently than a raster image like a png or a jpg.
I hope this helps people on here, and I know it will help Steve when it comes time for a final graphic for the device.
You need to be composing your artwork as vector (e.g. Illustrator) and not raster images (e.g. Photoshop).
I hope this helps people on here, and I know it will help Steve when it comes time for a final graphic for the device.
I'm aware of this, but I'm not knowledgeable in vector software (on my list of things to do). I use photoshop a ton though. Not usually for logos, though as an all-media freelance artist, it occasionally happens. I tend to work in physical media more often. The treble clef is hand-drawn then scanned and filtered. Just way easier for me.