Which Kayfun Is Best Kayfun..?

[BRODO]

Want to get me a kayfun Clone but confused as to which kayfun is best kayfun..???
So far I am considering these 2 from EHPRO..

Kayfun Lite Plus v2 by EHPRO (Larger Airflow Hole) - Eciggity

Kayfun Lite Plus v2 Clone (Dual Airflow) by EHPRO - Eciggity

Is there any major noticeable difference between the "larger-airflow-hole" or the "dual-airflow" design..?

Also whats the issue with the center pin/air hole tube & top post alignment thing i keep seeing people mention about..?

 

[Despraci]

The dual airflow doesn't have the whistle that most V2's have. But the airflow of any Kayfun is actually determined by the most restrict portion of the device, which is the center pin internal diameter. I do find the dual airflow to be a little nicer, but not a huge difference. I have also drilled out my center pin post to get a little more air into the chamber and make the draw less restrictive.

 

[Susan~S]

I have the first one you listed -- the one with the larger airflow. I read (via another thread recently) a post by someone who had both of these, that there was no noticeable difference between the two.

I use mine with the airflow screw totally removed and it still is a "tighter" draw than I would really like. I have a Fogger v4.4 that is perfect for me as far as airflow control and draw.

 

[BRODO]

So I went ahead an got this Kayfun: Kayfun Lite Plus v2 Clone (Dual Airflow) by EHPRO - Eciggity
But I was wondering about the clear tank sections though.
On some sites they are listed as Polypropylene and was wondering if in fact they really are Polypropylene and not Polycarbonate...?
Isn't Polypropylene suppose to be resistant to juices that can cause cracking as opposed to Polycarbonate that does crack..
Any of you know for sure if the tanks are really made of Polypropylene?

http://www.vapnificent.com/kayfun-lite-plus-v2-dual-air-hole-upgrade/
Kayfun Lite Plus V2 Dual Airflow Clone by EHPro
Kayfun Lite Plus V2 Clone by EHPro - 101 Vape
EHPro - Kayfun Lite Plus V2 - AltSmoke

 

[rlvampire]

If it says Polypropylene then it is plastic and you will want to find a glass tank replacement piece for it if you are going to use e-liquids known for cracking plastic tanks. I would stay with glass or stainless inserts for all tank components on the basis that they arent going to leech or alter the juice. Polyproylene from my quick research has a max temperature of 275°F 135°C and a maximum temperature tolerance of 338°F 170°C.

The typical vaper will not likely reach the maximum or melting temperature however I like to er on the side of caution since it is a plastic and avoid them entirely. Glass and Stainless inserts are something that has always confounded me when shopping around for vape products because honestly, I dont think Poly-inserts should even be sold anymore, how much more expensive is it . . . this is 2014 right?

 

[Despraci]

The problem with glass / Pyrex... Is for somebody like me I will break it. Not because I mistreat my mods or clumsy. But on a job site my mods do get abused. Hence why the cheaper clones goto a job site and authentics stay at home. If you want a tank RBA that comes with glass, the. I look towards the Fogger. But a good glass tank for a Kayfun that doesn't rely on just o-rings to keep it together will cost you $60 from SoV. That's more then I spent on my Ehpro KFL's

I understand the concern of poly tanks and I often wonder if it effects taste sometimes, but it's still cheaper then have spare glass sitting around for when I break one.

 

[Hoopie]

I think SoV Kayfun tanks also use o-rings to hold them together. The authentic clear sections do have a lot of product over-runs that require trimming and a visible seam. The FastTech ones have an o-ring but thread well. I doubt if the tanks can ever reach a temperature that would pose a danger of leaking toxic material. I would think that the drip tip would be giving you second degree burns on that hot of a vape. To enjoy tank cracking juices, use the metal center section.

 

[Despraci]

I think SoV Kayfun tanks also use o-rings to hold them together. The authentic clear sections do have a lot of product over-runs that require trimming and a visible seam. The FastTech ones have an o-ring but thread well. I doubt if the tanks can ever reach a temperature that would pose a danger of leaking toxic material. I would think that the drip tip would be giving you second degree burns on that hot of a vape. To enjoy tank cracking juices, use the metal center section.

The V2 actually replaces the top chimney portion with a threaded chimney. So it's still has o-rings, but the threaded chimney keeps it all tight together.

 

[DaveP]

I'm using the full length polycarbonate tank with my EHPro 3.1 and it's staying clear with no cracks. It's been knocked over more times than I care to admit, but not issues so far. I pocket carry all my mods with tanks and they don't leak, although I will get a taste of juice in the mouth once in a while if I allow it to sit horizontal on the table or in my pocket for too long. I think it's just a spit where a drop of juice enters the air tube and reaches the drip tip while I vape. It's not different than most other tanks that have an air tube if you pocket carry.

 

[rlvampire]

The problem with glass / Pyrex... Is for somebody like me I will break it. Not because I mistreat my mods or clumsy. But on a job site my mods do get abused.--- I understand the concern of poly tanks and I often wonder if it effects taste sometimes, but it's still cheaper then have spare glass sitting around for when I break one.

If you have a career or job which would crack the tank, I would think the stainless is better anyway because polypropylene does degrade and break down by heat and uv rays. The manufacturing of them for industrial applications has lead them to mixing in antioxidants so it will delay the breakdown of the material, based on what I've read over the last two days. ->-Google Material Name, I am not getting my info from Wikipedia, but from the verifiable sources or off of industrial companies who use the materials.-

My biggest concern is not just the materials and components we use to vape which are a given and we can look up resistance and tolerances for them. I am mostly concerned by what we dont know or what the manufacturers havent standardized. An example, PVD or Chrome coated clones found on a lot of online retailers; what exactly are standardized specs or information to know what is safe for consistent use. If anyone here on the forum has seen a crappy chrome job on a set of car rims or any other device, I dont want to be cooking and inhaling that coating, just like some of the PVD coating isnt electroplating but the actual reviews will note that it is paint. Authentic might be a 1:1 clone or is it literally the retail device just being under priced against what the original company might have allowed under a retail relationship. That is why I recommended finding a glass insert or using the stainless because you literally know what it is.

Everyone who watches or follows other vaping resources do relay which clones or alternative products provide a value to the vape community. Kayfun clones are generally high quality and function well compared to the original. As I stated previously it might not matter either way unless someone was using rougher e-liquids so I hope that what I've said was helpful. I think I kept my post on topic, if not I am sorry about that; Vape SAFE and Vape Happy !

 

[Hoopie]

You are right. SoV V2 kit has a threaded chimney and top cap. Wonder if they are ever on sale
V2 Chalice Threaded Top Cap (Full M Glass kit) – Science Of Vaping

 

[Istand]

HC Kayfun check it out.


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